THE  UFEUSTORY 
JAMES  CHALMERS 


HA 


/-><• 

£v 


"CARRYING    A    HEAVY    STONE    CLUB    HE    RUSHED 
TOWARDS  ME  AS  IF  TO  STRIKE" 


T  AM  ATE:   The  Life  Story 
of  JAMES    CHALMERS 

'Told  for     Young   People 


By 


RICHARD  LOVETT,  M.  A. 

Author  of  "James    Chalmers:    His   Autobiography   and   Letters" 
and  "James  Gilmour  of  Mongolia,"  etc. 


With  Maps  and  Illustrations 


NEW  YORK  CHICAGO  TORONTO 

Fleming   H.   Revell   Company 

LONDON    AND     EDINBURGH 


PREFACE 

JAMES  CHALMERS  was  as  brave  a  man  as  ever  fought 
in  the  British  Army  or  Navy.  He  was  as  true  a  hero  as 
any  Englishman  who  has  ever  been  honoured  by  the 
nation  for  victories  won  in  the  field  or  on  the  sea.  The 
aim  of  this  book  is  to  tell  the  story  of  his  life  in  such  a 
way  as  to  interest  boys.  The  main  purpose  of  the  author 
has  been  to  show  that  Tamate,  whose  great  aim  in  life 
was  to  do  good  to  others,  was  as  bold,  as  courageous,  and 
as  worthy  of  imitation  as  any  explorer,  man  of  science, 
soldier,  or  statesman  whose  name  is  famous  in  British 
annals. 

It  is  a  good  thing  that  young  readers,  and  especially 
boys,  should  see  that  a  true  Christian  man  can  also  be 
a  hero.  Tamate  loved  and  served  Jesus  Christ  himself, 
and  from  love  to  Christ  spent  all  his  time  and  strength 
in  making  known  the  love  of  Jesus  to  degraded  cannibals 
and  fierce  savages.  In  this  work  he  often  endured 
hardship,  hunger,  fever,  shipwreck  and  weary  toil,  and 
on  not  a  few  occasions  risked  even  life  itself.  His  career 
should  prove  an  inspiration  to  young  and  earnest  hearts. 


2136717 


4  Preface 

The  book  of  necessity  contains  much  that  has  already 
appeared  in  Tamate's  own  books,  and  in  the  standard 
life  of  the  great  missionary.  But  it  also  contains  a 
number  of  letters  and  diaries  that  have  never  before 
appeared  in  print.  For  some  of  the  most  valuable  of 
these  the  author  is  indebted  to  the  courtesy  of  the  Rev. 
H.  M.  Harrison-Chalmers.  He  is  also  specially  indebted 
to  the  Rev.  A.  T.  Saville,  who  was  Chalmers's  fellow 
passenger  in  the  long  and  stormy  and  trying  voyage  of 
the  'John  Williams,'  which  ended  in  the  total  wreck  of 
that  vessel.  Mr.  Saville  kindly  allowed  extracts  to  be 
made  from  this  which  add  greatly  to  the  interest  of 
Chapters  iii  and  iv. 

The  book  is  sent  forth  with  the  prayer  that  the  brave 
deeds  and  stirring  words  and  consecrated  life  of  Tamate 
may  kindle  in  many  a  young  heart  the  desire  and  the 
ambition  to  follow  in  his  steps,  as  a  brave  soldier,  in  the 
struggle  to  bring  light  and  truth  and  hope  to  those, 
whether  at  home  or  abroad,  who  are  yet  in  the  darkness 
and  sorrow  of  sin. 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.  A  BROTH  OF  A  BOY 9 

II.  A  CALL  AND  THE  ANSWER 17 

III.  IN  PERILS  OF  WATERS 34 

IV.  A  PIRATE  OF  THE  PACIFIC 62 

V.  THE  GEM  OF  THE  PACIFIC 73 

VI.  OFF  TO  NEW  GUINEA 90 

VII.  ON  THE  BRINK  OF  DEATH 101 

VIII.  THE  MAN  WITH  THE  CLUB 128 

IX.  LIFE  IN  THE  TREE-TOPS          .....  140 

X.  A  CRUEL  REVENGE 153 

XI.  A  NOBLE  SAVAGE 165 

XII.   RIDING  PACIFIC  SURGES 173 

XIII.  LIFE  ON  A  LAKATOI 187 

XIV,  AMONG  THE  CANNIBALS  OF  MAIPUA       .       •       .  202 


6  Contents. 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

XV.  How  NEW  GUINEA  CAME  UNDER  THE  FLAG  .        .  220 

XVI.  BOYS  WHOM  TAMATE  TRAINED         ....  237 

XVII.  LIFE  AT  TOARIPI 252 

XVIII.  THE  WRECK  OF  THE  'HARRIER'  ....  279 

XIX.   How  TAMATE  MADE  FRIENDS  WITH  SAVAGES        .  286 

XX.    UP  AND  DOWN  THE    FLY   RlVER         ....  296 

XXI.  THE  END  OF  A  NOBLE  LIFE 309 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


FACING  PAGE 
"CARRYING  A  HEAVY   STONE   CLUB   HE   RUSHED   TOWARDS 

ME  AS  IF  TO  STRIKE" title 

A  MAP  OF  SOUTH-EASTERN  NEW  GUINEA 9 

"BY  A  TERRIBLE  EFFORT  I  CLUNG  TO  THE  ROCK" 61 

PURSUED  BY  A  MAN-CATCHER 118 

SAVAGE  LIFE  IN  THE  TREE-TOPS 151 

"THE    SPEAR    INTENDED   FOR   THE    NAARA    MAN    ENTERED 

KONE'S   OWN   BREAST" 171 

"THE  BOAT  SWUNG  AND  WENT  OVER" 184 

"ARUAKO  LOOKED  BLACK  AND  ASKED  IF  THEY  WANTED  TO 

FIGHT"    196 

A  CRITICAL  MOMENT 263 

MAP  OF  THE  FLY  RIVER  DELTA,   SHOWING  SAGUANE  AND 

GOARIBARI  ISLAND 310 


T  A  M  A  T  E 

CHAPTER    I 

A  BROTH  OF  A  BOY 

WHEN  the  telegraph  in  April,  1901,  flashed  the  news 
from  Australia  to  England  that  James  Chalmers  had 
been  murdered  by  cannibals  in  New  Guinea,  multitudes 
felt  that  they  had  lost  a  personal  friend,  and  multitudes 
more  that  a  great  champion  in  the  fight  for  freedom  and 
truth  had  fallen.  For  a  week  or  two  the  papers  of 
the  whole  civilized  world  reported  the  brief  tidings  of 
the  death  of  the  great  missionary,  of  his  young  colleague, 
and  of  all  the  native  helpers  who  had  landed  with  him 
at  Dopima  on  that  fateful  morning. 

Yet  in  the  year  1841  James  Chalmers  had  been  born 
of  very  humble  parents  in  a  remote  district  of  Scotland. 
What  made  him  the  man  that  he  became  ?  What  gave 
him  so  much  influence  that  when  his  life  reached  a 
sudden  and  tragic  close  the  papers  of  the  whole  civilized 
world  reported  the  fact  ?  The  object  of  this  book  is  to 
show  that  it  was  because  James  Chalmers  when  a  youth 
gave  himself  up  to  the  leading  of  God's  Spirit,  and 
devoted  his  life  to  the  great  task  of  trying  to  benefit 
and  to  bless  others.  He  did  this  with  his  whole  heart 
and  with  entire  devotion  to  duty,  and  hence  it  was  that 
he  became  one  of  the  great  heroes  of  the  nineteenth 
century. 

James  Chalmers  was  born  in  the  village  of  Ardrishaig, 
in  the  county  of  Argyleshire.  His  father  was  a  stone- 
mason who  had  come  from  Aberdeen  to  Inverary  to 


io  A  Broth  of  a  Boy 

help  in  the  building  of  a  stone  quay  at  that  place.  His 
wife,  the  mother  of  James  Chalmers,  was  a  fine  type  of 
the  Scotch  peasant.  She  was  a  Highlander,  born  in  the 
lovely  little  village  of  Luss,  on  the  shores  of  Loch 
Lomond,  in  the  midst  of  that  beautiful  scenery  familiar 
to  every  boy  who  loves  the  romantic  poetry  and  the 
fascinating  stories  of  Sir  Walter  Scott.  In  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Ardrishaig  the  early  years  of  Chalmers's  life 
were  spent.  'My  first  school,'  he  says,  'was  on  the  south 
side  of  the  canal,  and  I  can  well  remember  my  mother 
leading  me  to  the  master  and  giving  him  strict  instruc- 
tions not  to  spare  the  rod.'  This  master  soon  after 
emigrated  to  Australia.  At  the  next  school  which 
Chalmers  attended  the  master  was  popular  because  he 
frequently  gave  sweets  to  his  scholars,  and  also,  un- 
happily, because  his  liking  for  whisky  was  so  great  that 
the  boys  had,  in  consequence  of  his  drinking  habits, 
many  whole  and  half-holidays. 

Chalmers  was  brought  up  under  the  severe  discipline 
and  the  simple  habits  of  a  Scotch  peasant  home.  But 
he  lived  in  the  midst  of  some  of  the  loveliest  scenery  in 
Great  Britain,  he  breathed  a  bracing  and  invigorating 
air,  and  from  his  infancy  he  was  taught  lessons  of  self- 
reliance.  He  had  to  make  his  way  by  resolutely  holding 
his  own  with  those  who  were  but  too  ready  to  tyrannize 
over  him.  To  this  free,  open-hearted,  strong-handed  life 
of  his  boyhood  James  Chalmers  owed  the  strong  body, 
the  dauntless  courage,  the  great  energy  and  power  of 
work  which  he  possessed  in  the  later  years  of  his  life. 

4  My  father,'  he  tells  us,  *  was  very  seldom  at  home.  I 
can  well  remember  how  I  earned  the  first  money  I  ever 
possessed.  On  one  occasion  when  he  had  walked  out 
from  Inverary  to  Ardrishaig  to  spend  the  Sunday  with 
us,  he  promised  that  he  would  give  me  sixpence  if 


Chalmers's  First  Sixpence  11 

I  could  learn  and  repeat  the  Twenty -third  Psalm  before 
night.  I  did  it  without  a  mistake,  and  got  the  prize ; 
but  sixpence  was  considered  far  too  great  a  sum  of 
money  for  me  to  deal  with,  and  so  I  had  to  hand  that 
over  to  my  mother,  who  took  care  of  it,  and  gave  me 
one  penny  as  my  own  share.' 

The  life  of  those  days,  though  less  than  seventy  years 
distant  in  time  from  to-day,  was  very  much  further  away 
from  our  life  in  opinion  and  habits  and  knowledge. 
Chalmers  tells  us  that  the  people  among  whom  he  spent 
his  boyhood  were  very  superstitious.  If  a  child  fell  ill, 
instead  of  bringing  a  doctor,  a  donkey  was  found,  and 
women  stood  on  each  side  of  the  creature  and  passed 
the  sick  child  under  and  over  it,  and  believed  that  this 
fantastic  action  would  result  in  a  cure.  A  dog's  whine 
was  believed  to  be  the  sure  sign  of  a  death.  Chalmers 
states  that  once  when  he  and  his  companions  were  play- 
ing they  heard  a  big  dog  cry,  and  they  stopped  at  once, 
and  begun  to  wonder  who  could  be  dead.  He  and  his 
playmates  were  on  the  bank  of  the  canal,  and  shortly 
afterwards  there  came  along,  by  one  of  those  strange 
coincidences  that  happen  in  real  life,  a  horse  dragging 
a  canal-boat,  and  in  the  boat  there  was  a  coffin.  This 
made  such  a  deep  impression  upon  the  child  that 
throughout  his  life,  even  to  the  end  of  it,  it  was  always 
a  shock  to  Chalmers  to  hear  the  cry  of  a  dog. 

Although  Chalmers  became  a  great  missionary,  there 
was  nothing  of  the  story-book  good  boy  about  him  in 
his  early  years.  He  lived  a  wild  free  life,  near  one  of 
the  great  lochs  of  Scotland,  and  it  was  natural  that  the 
high-spirited  boy  should  play  many  pranks  and  get 
into  many  difficulties.  He  soon  came  to  love  the  sea 
with  a  passionate  love.  He  was  never  happier  than 
when  in  a  boat,  and  if  no  boat  could  be  found,  then  a 


12  A  Broth  of  a  Boy 

log  or  a  plank  of  wood  was  made  to  serve  his  purpose. 
4 1  have  had,'  he  says,  4  many  narrow  escapes,  many 
thrashings  from  my  mother  and  friends  in  consequence 
of  these  escapades.  Three  times  I  was  carried  home 
supposed  to  be  dead  by  drowning,  and  my  father  used 
to  say,  t4  You  will  never  die  by  drowning."  I  was  very 
restless,  and  dearly  loved  adventure;  the  greater  the 
danger,  the  more  exhilarating  the  action.' 

It  is  not  surprising  to  learn  that  Chalmers  was  a  great 
favourite  with  the  hardy  fishermen  on  the  shores  of  Loch 
Fyne.  The  keen-eyed,  open-faced  boy,  so  ready  for 
adventure  and  so  full  of  courage,  was  sure  to  be  a 
favourite  of  men  of  that  type.  They  frequently  allowed 
him  to  go  out  with  them  in  their  boats,  and  thus  very 
early  in  life  he  learned  much  of  their  own  skill  in  the 
management  of  boats  and  knowledge  of  winds  and  tides 
and  currents  and  weather.  One  of  his  school  escapades 
has  come  down  to  us.  He  and  four  of  his  comrades 
thought  that  they  could  build  a  boat  for  themselves,  and 
decided  to  do  it.  But  they  found  this  task  beyond  their 
powers,  and  so  they  tried,  by  caulking  and  tarring  a 
herring-box,  to  get  a  craft  that  would  serve  their  purpose. 

They  were  so  eager  to  try  this  novel  boat,  that  they 
did  not  trouble  to  finish  their  work  thoroughly.  As 
Chalmers  was  captain,  he  had  the  privilege  of  the  first 
sail.  4We  got  a  long  line,'  he  says;  4I  sat  in  and  tried 
to  steer  the  herring-box  as  it  was  dragged  along  in  the 
sea  parallel  to  the  beach.  But  at  last  the  line  broke, 
and  I  was  carried  out  to  sea  by  the  strong  current 
There  was  considerable  difficulty  in  saving  me  because 
of  the  force  of  the  current  that  was  running  at  the  time.' 
This  was  only  a  foreshadowing  of  many  an  adventure 
in  his  later  life,  when  Chalmers  steered  a  boat-crew  of 
New  Guinea  natives  through  the  raging  surf  of  a  Pacific 


Life  in  Glenaray  13 

beach,  or  when  he  navigated  the  little  mission  schooner 
through  the  wild  storms  that  sweep  over  the  great  Gulf 
of  Papua. 

When  Chalmers  was  about  eight  years  old  the  family 
removed  to  Glenaray,  near  Inverary.  This  village  was 
almost  under  the  walls  of  the  great  castle  of  the  Duke 
of  Argyll,  and  Chalmers  came  in  later  years  to  look 
upon  himself  as  a  clansman  of  the  duke,  and  ever  felt 
pride  in  his  connexion  with  one  of  the  famous  spots  in 
Great  Britain. 

Life  in  Glenaray  in  the  year  1850  was  rough  and  wild. 
4 1  can  remember,'  he  says,  '  that  it  was  a  fearful  place 
for  whisky -drinking.  It  was  also  a  great  centre  of  the 
fishing  industry  ;  but  the  constant  drinking  during  the 
buying  and  the  selling  and  the  curing  of  the  fish  was 
bad  for  all  concerned.  There  were  frequent  fights, 
frequent  arrests,  and  frequent  trips  on  the  part  of  those 
who  had  been  arrested  and  banished  to  Inverary.' 

In  this  Glenaray  home  Chalmers  spent  several  happy 
years.  He  had  two  sisters,  and  the  three  used  to  go 
together  daily  to  the  Glenaray  school.  The  master  was 
quite  a  famous  man  in  his  way,  one  of  the  fine  types  of 
schoolmaster  so  common  throughout  Scotland.  His 
name  was  John  Mc Arthur.  The  Scotch  schools  of  that 
date,  even  in  the  country  districts  like  Argyleshire,  were 
much  better  than  any  but  the  best  class  of  grammar 
schools  in  England.  The  scholars  under  Mr.  Mc Arthur's 
care  were  taught  all  the  ordinary  elementary  subjects, 
and  also  Latin  and  Euclid.  Chalmers  mentions  with 
pride  that  in  the  competitive  examinations  which  were 
occasionally  held  in  the  district,  the  school  to  which 
he  belonged  several  times  stood  first.  Many  of  the 
boys  trained  at  that  little  country  Scotch  school  were 
afterwards  scattered  over  the  globe,  filling  places  of 


14  A  Broth  of  a  Boy 

importance  and  of  influence.  'The  master,'  Chalmers 
writes,  '  was  proud  of  us,  and  we  were  certainly  proud 
of  him,  and  loved  him.' 

At  the  same  time  the  schoolmaster  had  a  somewhat 
turbulent  and  unruly  brood  of  youngsters  to  deal  with. 
The  wild  blood  and  fierce  border  strife  of  their  Highland 
ancestors  lived  on  in  the  boys  in  the  milder  form  of 
a  spirit  of  rivalry  that  led  to  frequent  fights.  The  settle- 
ment of  all  differences  was  by  means  of  their  fists.  Not 
only  were  there  frequent  fights  between  individuals,  but 
the  scholars  of  the  village  school  looked  upon  the  scholars 
of  the  town  school  as  their  mortal  enemies,  and  when- 
ever the  rival  factions  met,  going  to  or  returning  from 
school,  immediate  hostilities  took  place.  Chalmers  re- 
calls that  not  unfrequent  thrashings  were  administered 
by  the  master  to  his  pupils  because  they  appeared  at 
class  with  black  eyes  and  other  signs  of  pugilistic  en- 
counter. The  minister  of  the  parish  even  found  that 
his  own  son  was  a  ringleader  in  these  engagements. 

It  is  needless  to  say  that  in  the  life  of  a  school  like 
this  Chalmers  was  a  foremost  boy.  He  was  a  prominent 
leader  in  the  battles  with  rival  schools,  and  the  frequent 
victories  which  he  and  his  fellows  secured  were  largely 
due  to  his  tactics,  energy  and  physical  force.  But 
though  often  in  scrapes  Chalmers  was  a  thoroughly 
straightforward,  courageous  lad.  He  remembered  to 
the  last  days  of  his  life  an  injustice  that  unwittingly  the 
schoolmaster,  whom  he  earnestly  loved,  inflicted  upon 
him.  He  was  wrongfully  accused  of  a  fault,  and  the 
master  having  made  up  his  mind  that  Chalmers  was  the 
guilty  boy,  and  being  unable  to  bring  him  to  the  point 
of  confession,  became  so  wrathful,  and  thrashed  him  so 
soundly,  that  he  broke  several  canes  upon  him.  Chalmers 
tells  us  that  more  than  thirty  years  later,  when  on  a  visit 


A  Rescue  from  Drowning  15 

to  the  Glen,  he  met  his  old  schoolmaster.  The  latter 
referred  to  that  thrashing,  and  then  told  him  how  sorry 
he  afterwards  became  when  he  found  out  that  Chalmers 
had  had  nothing  whatever  to  do  with  the  affair,  for  his 
supposed  share  in  which  he  had  been  so  severely 
punished. 

Chalmers's  love  of  the  sea,  and  his  skill  and  readiness 
in  coping  with  difficulties  even  in  his  boyhood,  enabled 
him  from  time  to  time  to  be  of  great  service  to  others. 
When  only  about  ten  years  old  he  saved  one  of  the  lads 
belonging  to  a  rival  school  from  drowning.  The  boys 
had  been  in  school  all  day,  and  it  had  rained  that 
morning  as  it  only  can  at  times  in  Scotland.  Just  as  the 
schools  closed  the  sun  came  out  brightly  and  the  after- 
noon was  fine.  The  tremendous  rainfall  had  produced 
in  the  river  Aray  what  is  locally  called  a  '  spate,'  and  the 
river,  which  is  usually  a  small  stream,  was  rushing  and 
roaring  along  like  a  mountain  torrent.  At  a  place  called 
the  Three  Bridges  the  river  was  crossed  by  a  rough 
bridge,  and  while  Chalmers  was  some  short  distance 
away  there  was  a  shout  that  a  boy  had  fallen  in  and  was 
being  carried  away  by  the  rushing  stream.  Chalmers 
ran  forward,  and  as  he  went,  with  that  readiness  for 
action  that  was  one  of  his  most  marked  qualities  both  as 
boy  and  man,  he  tore  off  his  jacket.  He  saw  the  boy 
being  rolled  along  in  the  stream.  '  I  quickly  ran,'  he 
tells  us,  *  to  the  lower  side  of  the  bridge,  and  holding  on 
to  the  timber,  and  stretching  well  out  as  he  was  passing 
under  the  bridge,  I  was  able  to  seize  him,  and  to  bring 
him  near,  and  hold  him  tightly  with  my  left  hand. 
I  then  slipped  down  a  little,  and  allowed  the  current  to 
carry  us  both  some  distance  further,  where  I  was  able 
to  seize  a  branch,  and  getting  near  the  bank  was  helped 
by  the  others  to  draw  out  the  boy.  Why  I  went  down 


16  A  Broth  of  a  Boy 

to  the  lower  side  and  acted  as  I  did,  I  cannot  say ;  but 
it  was  the  only  way  in  which  he  could  have  been  saved.' 

This  incident,  happening  when  he  was  only  ten  years 
old,  was  very  characteristic.  It  shows  that  there  was 
inborn  in  the  boy  who  was  afterwards  to  become  a  great 
pioneer  leader,  that  readiness  and  instinctive  perception 
of  the  right  thing  to  do,  which  so  often  in  later  life 
saved  his  own  life  and  the  lives  of  all  who  were  working 
with  him. 

Some  time  after  this  event  he  was  standing  on  the 
quay  at  Inverary  one  afternoon,  and  there  were  only  one 
or  two  others  within  sight.  Suddenly  he  heard  a  loud 
scream,  and  on  looking  round,  saw  a  woman  crying  out 
in  great  distress  that  her  child  was  drowning.  By  this 
time  Chalmers  had  become  a  powerful  swimmer.  He 
ran  along  the  quay,  taking  off  his  coat  as  he  ran,  sprang 
into  the  sea,  seized  the  child  (who,  apparently  dead,  was 
being  floated  away  by  the  stream)  by  the  dress,  and  drew 
him  ashore.  Though  very  nearly  drowned,  ultimately  he 
was  restored  to  life  and  strength. 

In  this  vigorous,  open-air,  merry  life,  the  early  years 
of  Chalmers  were  passed.  They  brought  him  health, 
a  keen  eye  and  a  ready  hand,  and  a  heart  already 
prompt  not  only  to  sympathize  with  those  in  danger,  but 
quick  to  give  just  the  help  that  could  be  most  effective 
for  good. 


CHAPTER    II 

A  CALL  AND  THE  ANSWER 

WHEN  Chalmers  was  thirteen  years  old  he  left  the 
Glen  school  and  attended  one  of  higher  status  called  the 
grammar  school.  His  father  was  anxious  that  he  should 
become  a  civil  engineer,  but  was  too  poor  to  enable  his 
boy  to  enter  upon  this  path  in  life.  Two  or  three  other 
things  were  suggested  and  tried,  and  when  Chalmers 
was  about  fifteen  he  was  placed  in  a  lawyer's  office  at 
Inverary.  There  he  remained  for  some  three  years  ; 
but  there  is  no  evidence  in  his  after-life  that  his  legal 
studies  had  made  any  deep  impression  upon  him. 

It  was  during  this  period  that  the  whole  bent  and 
purpose  of  his  life  was  changed.  He  had  been  brought 
up  in  a  strict  Scottish  home  ;  his  father  belonged  to  what 
was  known  in  Scotland  as  the  Auld  Kirk.  But  he  was 
wider  in  his  sympathies  than  many  of  his  class,  and  he 
held  in  great  respect  the  minister  of  the  United  Pres- 
byterian Church  at  Inverary,  named  Mr.  Meikle.  Some 
of  Chalmers's  old  school-fellows  had  induced  him  to 
attend  the  Sunday  school  connected  with  the  United 
Presbyterian  Church,  and  for  several  years  Chalmers 
was  a  regular  attendant.  While  a  scholar  there  he 
reached  what  he  calls  the  great  decision  of  his  life. 

He  attended  a  class  on  the  Sunday  afternoon  that  was 
held  'n  the  vestry  of  the  church.  One  afternoon,  when 
the  lesson  for  the  day  had  been  finished  and  the  scholars 
had  all  entered  the  church  to  receive  a  brief  address  and 

B 


i8  A  Call  and  the  Answer 

to  sing  the  closing  hymn,  Mr.  Meikle,  who  was  acting 
as  the  superintendent,  produced  a  copy  of  the  United 
Presbyterian  Record,  and  read  to  the  children  a  striking 
letter  from  a  missionary  in  the  Fiji  Islands.  The  letter 
described  the  horrible  cannibals  and  the  savage  life  they 
lived  there,  and  the  power  that  the  Gospel  had  already 
obtained  over  them,  leading  many  of  them  to  give  up 
their  savage  practices,  and  to  begin  living  better  lives. 
When  the  minister  had  finished  reading  this  letter  he 
looked  round  the  school  and  said, '  I  wonder  if  there  is 
a  boy  here  this  afternoon  who  will  become  a  missionary 
and  by  and  by  bring  the  Gospel  to  cannibals  ? '  Im- 
mediately Chalmers  in  his  heart  said, '  Yes,  God  helping 
me,  I  will.' 

He  made  no  outward  sign,  nor  did  he  tell  any  one  at 
that  time  of  the  decision  which  he  had  reached.  He 
went  away  home  alone.  The  scene  had  impressed  itself 
so  strongly  upon  his  heart  that,  when  he  reached  a 
certain  point  in  the  road  where  there  was  a  wall,  he 
climbed  over  this  wall,  and  kneeled  down  on  the  other 
side,  and  asked  God  in  prayer  to  accept  him  and  to 
make  him  a  good  missionary  to  the  heathen. 

Many  lads  under  the  powerful  impression  produced 
upon  them  by  a  good  speaker  or  a  striking  letter  and 
tale  of  the  kind  which  had  been  addressed  to  Chalmers 
that  afternoon,  soon  forget  it;  and  even  good  resolves 
made  under  these  conditions  soon  pass  away.  This  was 
the  case  with  Chalmers  himself.  He  tells  us  that  for 
some  time  he  was  greatly  impressed,  but  the  impression 
passed  away,  and  at  last  he  forgot  all  about  it.  For  a 
time  he  fell  into  bad  company.  He  even  ceased  going 
to  the  school  and  to  the  church;  but  his  impression 
came  back  to  him  in  a  very  striking  form  some  two  or 
three  years  later. 


Chalmers's  Conversion  19 

In  November,  1859,  two  preachers  came  from  the 
North  of  Ireland  to  Inverary  to  hold  a  series  of  evange- 
listic meetings.  They  had  come  at  the  urgent  request 
of  Mr.  Meikle.  Meetings  of  this  kind  were  a  novelty  at 
Inverary  at  that  date,  and  that  group  of  harum-scarum 
young  fellows  with  whom  Chalmers  was  then  associating 
determined  to  break  up  the  meetings,  and  to  prevent 
any  conversions.  In  the  afternoon  of  the  day  on  which 
the  first  meeting  was  to  be  held,  Chalmers  happened  to 
look  in  at  the  shop  of  a  friend.  He  had  been  in  the 
habit  of  often  dropping  in  on  this  friend  for  a  chat.  On 
this  occasion  his  friend  asked  him  why  he  was  not  going 
to  the  meeting,  and  said  he  ought  to  go  that  night. 
Chalmers  raised  many  objections,  but  his  friend  was 
resolved  that  he  should  go,  and  he  gave  him  a  small  Bible 
to  use  at  the  service,  and  at  last  Chalmers  consented. 

It  was  raining  hard,  and  when  Chalmers  came  to  the 
stairs  leading  to  the  room  where  the  meeting  was  to 
be  held,  he  found  that  the  congregation  was  singing  the 
well-known  hymn  '  All  people  that  on  earth  do  dwell,'  to 
the  familiar  Old  Hundredth  tune.  '  I  thought,'  he  said, 
*  I  never  heard  such  singing  before,  so  solemn  and  yet  so 
joyful.'  He  went  up  the  steps  to  enter  the  room,  and 
found  a  large  congregation  there,  all  of  whom  were 
intensely  in  earnest.  One  of  the  evangelists  gave  an 
address  based  on  Revelation  xxii.  17  ;  'And  let  him  that 
heareth  say,  Come.  And  let  him  that  is  athirst  come. 
And  whosoever  will,  let  him  take  the  water  of  life  freely.' 
This  address  appeared  to  James  Chalmers  as  though 
directed  straight  at  himself.  He  felt  very  much  impressed, 
and  at  the  close  of  the  meeting  slipped  away  to  his  home. 

The  following  Sunday  night,  Chalmers  tells  us,  'in 
the  Free  Church  I  was  pierced  through  and  through 
from  the  conviction  of  sin,  and  felt  lost  beyond  all 

B  2 


2O  A  Call  and  the  Answer 

hope  of  salvation.  On  the  Monday  Mr.  Meikle  came  to 
my  help,  and  led  me  kindly  to  promises  and  to  light. 
As  he  quoted  the  passage  "The  Blood  of  Jesus  Christ 
His  Son  cleanseth  us  from  all  sin,"  I  felt  that  this 
salvation  was  possible  for  me,  and  some  gladness  came 
to  my  heart.  After  a  time  the  light  increased,  and  I  felt 
that  God  was  speaking  to  me  in  His  Word,  and  I  believed 
unto  salvation.' 

When  a  young  man  of  Chalmers's  type  passes  through 
a  strong  religious  experience  of  this  kind,  the  results 
appear  at  once  in  his  life.  He  soon  began  to  speak  at 
religious  meetings,  both  in  the  town  and  in  the  country, 
and  one  day  the  remembrance  of  the  old  vow  which  he 
had  made  as  a  schoolboy  came  back  to  him,  that  promise 
that  he  would  give  himself  to  the  great  work  of  carrying 
to  the  heathen  the  glad  tidings  of  Jesus  Christ.  1  Never 
again,'  he  says, '  was  this  forgotten.' 

James  Chalmers  was  one  of  a  group  of  Scottish  lads 
who  resolutely  came  to  the  great  decision  to  give  their 
lives  to  Jesus  Christ,  and  for  His  sake  to  the  service  of 
men.  The  decision  in  every  case  was  made  early  in 
life,  and  the  result  of  the  choice  was  to  give  great  force 
and  influence  for  good  to  all  their  subsequent  work. 
Another  member  of  this  group  was  David  Livingstone, 
the  first  white  man  to  make  his  way  into  the  heart  of  the 
dark  continent  of  Africa;  the  man  who  by  God's 
blessing  aroused  the  conscience  of  the  modern  world 
against  the  crimes  of  Central  African  slavery,  and  made 
possible  that  wonderful  development  which  occurred 
during  the  last  half  of  the  nineteenth  century  in  Central 
and  in  Southern  Africa. 

Livingstone  had  been  preceded  by  a  man  almost 
equally  remarkable,  though  for  other  qualities — Robert 
Moffat,  who  went  out  to  Africa  in  1817,  and  spent  fifty 


A  Struggle  for  Education  21 

years  of  strenuous  labour  in  Bechuanaland,  striving  to 
lift  up  the  natives  in  the  scale  of  civilization  and  to  bring 
them  to  the  light  of  the  Gospel.  The  developed  state  of 
Bechuanaland  and  the  presence  in  the  native  life  there  of 
such  a  man  as  Khama,  the  Bechuanaland  chief,  are  the 
evidences  of  the  good  work  that  Robert  Moffat  did. 

The  third  member  of  this  remarkable  group  was 
James  Gilmour,  who,  after  being  educated  at  Glasgow 
University  and  Cheshunt  College,  went  out  to  Mongolia 
and  devoted  his  talents  and  his  spirit  of  altogether  extra- 
ordinary consecration  to  the  great  task  of  enlightening 
that  dark  and  difficult  region. 

In  this  little  company  of  men,  destined  in  such  a 
remarkable  way  to  help  in  the  uplifting  of  humanity, 
James  Chalmers  takes  a  high  place.  His  conversion 
having  once  and  for  all  settled  the  path  of  life  which  he 
was  to  tread,  all  the  power  of  his  strong  nature  led  him 
along  the  way  thus  marked  out.  He  had  to  overcome 
difficulties  that  would  have  crushed  a  weaker  youth.  His 
parents,  he  tells  us,  were  too  poor  to  give  him  any 
University  training.  He  had  become  a  member  of  the 
United  Presbyterian  Church  in  Inverary,  of  which  the 
Rev.  Gilbert  Meikle  was  then  the  pastor,  and  he  was  a 
regular  teacher  in  the  Sunday  school  which  for  many 
years  he  had  attended  as  a  lad.  He  used  frequently  to 
ponder  how  the  perplexing  problem  of  securing  a  proper 
education  for  the  work  he  wished  to  do  in  life  could  be 
solved.  Mr.  Meikle  helped  him  in  many  ways,  and 
especially  in  Latin  and  in  Euclid.  He  also  encouraged 
the  Highland  youth  by  telling  him  that  many  students 
had  managed  to  get  a  college  course  by  doing  work  in 
connexion  with  some  of  the  churches  at  Glasgow. 

In  the  course  of  the  year  1861,  at  some  of  the  religious 
meetings  held  in  Inverary,  a  Mr.  William  Turner,  from 


22  A  Call  and  the  Answer 

Glasgow,  was  present.  He  was  the  brother  of  a  famous 
South  Sea  missionary,  Dr.  Turner,  who  spent  forty 
years  in  the  important  Samoan  Mission.  Mr.  Turner 
talked  freely  with  Chalmers  about  his  brother  and  about 
mission  work  in  the  South  Seas,  and  these  talks 
strengthened  the  desire  that  Chalmers  already  felt  so 
strongly,  to  become  a  missionary  himself.  Where  there 
is  a  powerful  desire  of  this  kind,  and  especially  in  early 
life,  a  strong  will  is  certain  to  find  the  way. 

In  the  course  of  1861  Chalmers  managed  to  secure  an 
appointment  as  a  worker  in  the  Glasgow  City  Mission. 
Dr.  Turner,  the  missionary,  happened  to  be  at  home  at 
that  time  resident  in  Glasgow,  engaged  in  the  work  of 
seeing  through  the  press  a  new  edition  of  the  Bible  in 
the  Samoan  language.  Through  his  brother  Chalmers 
got  to  know  Dr.  Turner,  who  soon  perceived  in  the 
young  Scotchman  qualities  that  were  certain  to  make 
him  of  very  great  service  in  mission  work  in  the  South 
Pacific.  The  two  had  many  long  chats,  and  in  the  end 
Dr.  Turner  was  the  means  of  solving  for  James  Chalmers 
the  educational  problem.  He  suggested  that  the  best 
thing  for  Chalmers  to  do  was  to  offer  his  services  to  the 
Directors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society  in  London. 
If  they  accepted  him,  he  would  then  be  sent  to  a  college 
for  a  preliminary  training,  and  ultimately  appointed  to 
some  station  in  one  of  the  many  great  mission  fields 
under  the  care  of  that  Society. 

These  chats  and  the  carrying  out  of  this  plan  neces- 
sarily took  a  good  deal  of  time,  and  all  this  while  Chalmers 
was  entirely  dependent  upon  his  own  efforts  for  support. 
He  had  made  it  not  only  a  matter  of  pride,  but  a  matter 
of  duty,  to  be  independent  of  his  parents  so  far  as  his 
maintenance  was  concerned.  He  managed  to  live  on 
the  scanty  wages  that  he  received  as  a  worker  in 


Hard  Work  in  Glasgow  23 

connexion  with  the  Glasgow  City  Mission — one  of  the 
most  difficult  positions  that  any  Christian  youth  could 
occupy.  It  is  a  reproach  to  our  civilization  that  in  every 
great  centre,  like  Glasgow  and  Liverpool  and  London, 
and  even  in  many  of  the  country  districts  and  smaller 
villages  of  our  land,  there  are  regions  almost  as  degraded 
and  there  are  men  and  women  almost  as  savage  and  as 
strange  to  all  true  and  good  influences  as  in  the  worst 
parts  of  the  heathen  field. 

The  work  which  Chalmers  was  now  doing  took  him 
into  the  worst  slums  of  Glasgow.  He  had  to  try  to  help 
the  worst  men  and  women  in  the  darkest  districts  of  that 
great  city.  He  was  associated  with  the  Mission  Church 
that  was  in  connexion  with  the  Greyfriars  Church  over 
which  at  that  time  Dr.  Calderwood  was  the  pastor. 
Unhappily  Chalmers  never  wrote  down  any  recollections 
of  the  months  that  he  spent  in  Glasgow.  He  was  there 
for  the  greater  part  of  a  year,  and  the  discipline  through 
which  he  passed  at  that  time  was  of  invaluable  service  to 
him  in  later  life.  He  used  to  say  that  he  never  met  any 
New  Guinea  or  Rarotongan  man  or  woman  more  degraded 
and  harder  to  influence  for  good  than  some  of  those 
with  whom  he  came  into  contact  and  whom  he  tried  to 
benefit  in  the  alleys  and  cellars  of  Glasgow. 

After  Chalmers  had  been  in  Glasgow  about  eight 
months,  the  correspondence  with  the  Directors  of  the 
London  Missionary  Society  led  to  his  going  up  to 
London  to  meet  them.  In  the  end  he  was  accepted  by 
them  as  a  missionary  student,  and  was  sent  for  his 
training  to  Cheshunt  College,  a  Theological  Institution 
situated  about  thirteen  miles  from  London,  where  in  the 
course  of  the  last  century  a  large  number  of  prominent 
missionaries  received  their  early  training.  On  the  roll 
of  the  men  who  went  forth  from  Cheshunt  to  the  work 


•*>• 


24  A  Call  and  the  Answer 

in  the  heathen  field  are  such  names  as  Dr.  Muirhead 
and  Dr.  Chalmers  of  China,  James  Gilmour  of  Mongolia, 
G.  O.  Newport  and  Edward  Rice  of  South  India,  and 
many  others,  including-  Mr.  Wardlaw  Thompson,  the 
Foreign  Secretary  of  the  London  Missionary  Society, 
who  have  had  great  influence  in  the  work  of  modern 
missionary  enterprise. 

Cheshunt  College,  at  the  time  when  Chalmers  entered 
it,  had  for  its  president  and  its  inspiration  Dr.  Reynolds, 
a  man  of  exceptional  intellectual  gifts,  but  of  even  higher 
personal  graces  and  charm.  He  was  endowed  with  a 
spiritual  influence  of  quite  an  extraordinary  quality.  In 
college  training  the  personality  of  the  man  at  the  head 
of  the  institution  is  the  most  important  factor  in  the 
education  there  given ;  and  all  students  at  Cheshunt 
College  from  the  year  1860  to  the  year  1895^  were 
fortunate  in  coming  under  the  influence  of  so  rich  and 
ripe  and  inspiring  a  personality  as  that  of  Dr.  Reynolds. 
Chalmers  describes  his  first  interview  with  him.  '  He 
asked  me,'  he  says,  '  many  questions  about  Greek,  Latin, 
Mathematics,  and  being  satisfied  then  said,  his  whole  face 
speaking,  "  But,  brother,  the  most  important  thing  of  all 
is  your  state  in  relation  to  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ." 
Every  student  of  our  St.  Anselm's  time  looks  back  with 
holy  and  blessed  memories  to  Cheshunt.' 

Chalmers  was  at  Cheshunt  for  only  two  years.  The 
full  course  in  those  days  was  four  years.  Under  the  in- 
creasing pressure  of  intellectual  developments,  the  course 
is  now  five  or  six  years,  but  Chalmers's  early  training 
had  not  fitted  him  to  receive  benefit  from  a  long  in- 
tellectual course.  From  the  first  his  bent  was  towards 
practical  matters ;  and  it  was  soon  obvious  that  he  was 
a  man  much  more  likely  to  do  good  service  in  the  South 
Seas  or  in  some  pioneer  mission  than  at  such  centres  of 


Chalmers  at  Cheshunt  College  25 

ancient  heathen  civilization  as  Benares  or  Calcutta, 
Peking-  or  Hankow. 

Money  matters  were  an  additional  difficulty,  because 
although  in  the  case  of  missionary  students  their  tuition 
fees  and  board  were  paid  by  the  Society,  the  student 
was  expected  to  provide  his  own  personal  expenses.  To 
men  training  for  the  foreign  field  a  small  allowance  was 
at  that  time  made  for  these  by  the  Society;  but  even 
Chalmers,  frugal  and  economical  as  he  was,  having  come 
through  the  hard  training  of  his  boyhood  and  early  man- 
hood, found  it  extremely  difficult  with  the  sum  allowed 
to  make  both  ends  meet.  But  hard  as  the  struggle  was, 
he  went  at  it  with  the  energy  that  marked  all  his  actions. 
*  I  have  no  doubt,'  he  says,  '  that  I  will  get  this  session 
battled  through  in  some  way,  and  it  may  in  after  life 
prove  one  of  the  best  lessons  I  had  while  at  college.  It 
teaches  how  to  economize,  but  in  rather  a  difficult  way.' 

It  might  not  be  a  bad  thing  in  many  other  educational 
institutions  if  the  students  in  them,  instead  of  having,  as 
in  many  cases  they  now  do,  allowances  so  large  that 
they  are  tempted  into  extravagant  habits  in  early  life, 
were  compelled  to  weigh  every  item  of  expenditure,  and 
to  avoid  all  forms  of  extravagance  and  even  some  forms 
of  almost  necessary  expenses,  as  a  discipline  for  the  mone- 
tary problems  of  later  life.  How  often  does  it  happen 
that  the  boy  and  the  youth  for  whom  the  pathway  in 
life  is  made  so  smooth,  that  he  really  knows  nothing1 
about  anxieties  and  cares  and  difficulties,  turns  out  a 
useless  or  an  insignificant  member  of  society,  while  the 
boy  whose  struggles  are  a  trial  from  first  to  last  succeeds 
in  making  his  mark  in  the  life  of  the  community  in  which 
he  lives. 

Though  never  likely  to  become  a  scholar,  Chalmers 
went  at  his  tasks  with  great  vigour*  *  I  am  beginning^ 


26  A  Call  and  the  Answer 

he  says,  *  to  make  use  of  the  Greek  for  my  Testament, 
and  I  rather  like  it,  although  I  cannot  say  I  like  the 
languages  as  well  as  theology  and  mathematics.  But 
by  the  blessing  of  God  I  am  determined  to  master  all 
the  languages  I  have  to  undertake.'  It  is  to  be  feared 
that  the  mastery  which  Chalmers  secured  over  Latin  and 
Greek  and  Hebrew  was  of  a  shadowy  and  unsubstantial 
kind,  but  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  discipline  which  he 
went  through  at  Cheshunt  fitted  him  for  his  later 
language -studies.  He  acquired  such  a  knowledge  of 
Rarotongan  that  it  became  as  familiar  to  him  as  his 
native  tongue,  and  many  of  the  native  assistants  who  in 
later  years  went  from  the  island  of  Rarotonga  to  the 
New  Guinea  Mission  were  encouraged  in  hours  of 
difficulty,  were  comforted  in  times  of  sorrow,  and  were 
sustained  in  the  valley  of  the  shadow  of  death  by  the 
power  and  the  beauty  with  which  Chalmers  could  speak 
their  own  tongue. 

Those  who  were  students  at  Cheshunt  College  in  the 
years  when  Chalmers  was  there  have  vivid  recollections 
of  his  personal  influence  and  his  boundless  energy  and 
high  spirit.  One  of  them  tells  us  that  he  was  then  tall 
and  thin,  not  at  all  portly,  as  he  became  in  later  years. 
His  complexion  was  pale  and  freckled,  his  hair  was 
black,  and  his  eyes  hazel  with  an  endless  sparkle  in 
them.  He  was  active  and  muscular,  lithe  but  strong. 
He  had  the  frame  of  an  athlete,  and  was  a  powerful 
skater  and  a  vigorous  football  player.  By  all  his 
natural  qualities  of  body,  mind  and  spirit  he  was  a  born 
pioneer  and  leader  of  men. 

There  is  universal  testimony  on  the  part  of  his  fellow 
students  that  he  was  always  ready  for  pranks  and  for 
practical  jokes.  The  only  way  in  which  peace  could  be 
preserved  in  the  college  corridors  near  his  room  was  to 


A  Leader  in  Practical  Jokes  27 

make  him  a  sort  of  college  policeman  whose  duty  it  was 
to  keep  the  peace.  As  an  instance  of  the  practical  jokes 
to  which  he  was  addicted  we  describe  the  one  that 
seems  to  have  made  the  greatest  impression  on  his 
contemporaries.  'Who,  for  instance,'  writes  one  of 
these, '  that  was  at  Cheshunt  at  the  time  can  forget  the 
awful  apparition  of  the  great  brown  bear  ?  Chalmers 
had  made  the  acquaintance  of  Mr.  Tugwell,  curate  at 
Goff's  Oak.  Mr.  Tugwell  had  been  for  a  time  a  mis- 
sionary among  the  North  American  Indians,  and  had 
brought  home  with  him  some  interesting  curios.  Among 
others  there  was  an  enormous  bear's  skin,  with  the  head 
and  paws  complete,  prepared  by  the  Indians  to  be  worn 
in  some  of  their  dances.  Chalmers  promptly  borrowed 
this  skin,  and  brought  it  down  by  night  to  the  college. 
He  confided  his  secret  to  only  one  or  two  confederates, 
and  at  the  close  of  a  very  quiet  evening,  when  prayers 
were  over,  and  the  men  were  all  in  the  dining-hall  at 
supper,  the  door  was  suddenly  flung  open  and  the 
bear  appeared,  standing  on  its  hind-legs,  and  roaring 
ominously.  It  shambled  quickly  into  the  room  among 
the  startled  students,  made  for  one  of  the  quietest,  sub- 
jected him  to  a  terrible  hug,  and  then  pursued  others. 
At  this  juncture  a  confederate  turned  out  the  gas,  and 
the  scene  of  excitement  in  the  dark  may  be  better 
imagined  than  described.  When  the  light  was  turned 
on  again  it  was  discovered  that  it  was  Chalmers  who 
was  masquerading  in  this  fashion.  For  a  week  after 
that  bear  was  the  central  figure  in  numberless  jokes. 
I  shall  never  forget  the  abject  terror  on  the  face  of  an 
old  Irishman  who  used  to  come  into  the  college  as  a 
vendor  of  fruit  and  other  luxuries,  when  the  bear 
suddenly  met  him  at  the  end  of  the  corridor,  and  seized 
him  and  his  basket  in  its  ample  embrace." 


28  A  Call  and  the  Answer 

All  the  qualities  for  which  his  boyhood  had  been 
remarkable,  muscular  strength,  decision,  the  power  of 
seeing  the  right  thing  to  do  and  doing  it  at  the 
moment,  also  served  him  in  good  stead  at  Cheshunt. 
A  fellow  student  has  recorded  how  by  his  readiness  he 
saved  the  lives  of  two  others : — 

'  One  hot  day,  near  the  end  of  April,  eight  of  the 
students,  including  Chalmers,  agreed  to  go  for  an  after- 
noon's boating  on  the  river  Lea.  Having  pulled  for 
an  hour,  as  the  day  was  so  hot,  they  agreed  to  have 
a  swim  ;  but  Chalmers,  not  being  very  well,  resolved  to 
remain  on  the  river's  bank.  Of  the  seven  who  entered 
the  water,  six  were  good  swimmers ;  the  one  unable  to 
swim  did  not  venture  far  from  the  river's  brink.  Having 
been  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  in  the  water  the  six  swimmers 
landed,  and  were  drying  themselves,  one  of  them  being 
a  little  distance  from  the  rest.  The  one  man  unable  to 
swim  remained  in  the  water  for  a  little  time  longer. 
Suddenly  there  was  a  splash  and  a  scream ;  Jput  one 
man  (the  writer),  who  was  apart  from  the  others,  clearly 
saw  that  the  man  in  the  water  was  beyond  his  depth, 
and  ran  the  few  yards  to  the  margin  of  the  river  and 
jumped  in.  The  others  thought  that  the  man  who 
screamed  was  only  larking.  Instantly  the  drowning 
man  clutched  hold  of  his  deliverer  in  such  a  way  as 
made  it  impossible  for  him  to  swim ;  and  although  he 
pleaded  with  him  to  relax  his  hold,  saying  that  he  could 
easily  save  him  if  he  did  so,  the  frightened  man  clung  all 
the  closer ;  and  both  men  were  in  the  greatest  danger  of 
being  drowned.  Their  struggles  forced  them  towards 
the  middle  of  the  river,  when  Chalmers  perceived  the 
greatness  of  the  peril,  and  called  upon  the  other  six 
men,  who  were  still  undressed,  to  plunge  into  the  river, 
and  to  swim  out  one  a  little  beyond  the  other,  so  as  to 


Saving  a  Companion's  Life  29 

be  able  to  make  a  chain  of  hands,  when  he,  having-  only 
thrown  off  his  coat  and  waistcoat,  jumped  into  the  water, 
and  swam  towards  the  drowning  pair.  Having  taken 
a  secure  hold  of  one  of  them  as  they  were  sinking- 
together  for  the  last  time,  with  the  other  hand  he  seized 
one  hand  of  the  outermost  set  of  the  swimmers,  and 
called  upon  them  to  haul  him  and  the  endangered  men 
ashore.  By  this  means  both  of  their  lives  were  saved. 
Chalmers's  skill,  as  well  as  courage,  was  revealed  by  the 
instantaneous  formation  of  the  plan  that  saved  his 
colleagues  from  what  otherwise  would  have  been  certain 
death.' 

In  addition  to  the  intellectual  life  and  work  at  Cheshunt, 
the  college  under  Dr.  Reynolds  maintained  a  high  level 
of  spiritual  life.  Some  of  the  severer  type  of  students 
found  it  a  little  difficult  to  reconcile  Chalmers'  high 
spirits  and  intense  love  of  practical  joking  with  the  more 
solemn  and  serious  side  of  a  college  life  where  men  were 
being  trained  for  the  ministry.  They  saw  the  uproarious 
student  pouring  water  upon  his  colleagues  from  a  window, 
and  then  they  saw  the  same  man  earnestly  engaged  in 
prayer  at  one  of  the  devotional  meetings  or  in  one  of 
the  services  at  the  college  chapel.  But  this  was  one  of 
Chalmers's  great  qualities.  He  could  take  keen  interest 
in  the  humorous  side  of  life  and  in  the  fun  and  frolic  of 
every  day,  and  yet  at  the  proper  time  be  as  earnest,  as 
devout,  and  as  truthful  in  his  devotional  spirit  as  any 
man  could  desire  to  be. 

There  are  connected  with  Cheshunt  College  a  number 
of  little  village  churches.  Each  year  a  student  is 
appointed  to  take  special  superintendence  of  one  of 
these  village  churches,  and  is  called  by  the  high-sounding- 
title  of  'the  dean.'  Possibly  because  of  his  muscular 
build  and  powers  of  walking,  Chalmers  was  made  the 


3O  A  Call  and  the  Answer 

dean  of  a  little  place  situated  at  Hertford  Heath,  some 
seven  miles  away  from  the  college.  This  station,  at  the 
time  when  Chalmers  was  at  Cheshunt,  possessed  special 
interest,  because  it  was  under  the  care  of  a  famous 
Sanskrit  scholar  of  Haileybury  College,  at  that  time  a 
training  school  for  the  Indian  Civil  Service,  viz.  Professor 
Johnson.  Between  Professor  Johnson  and  Chalmers  a 
warm  friendship  sprang  up.  Chalmers  frequently  used 
to  cover  the  fourteen  miles  involved  in  the  journey  to 
Hertford  Heath  and  back.  He  often  preached  in  this 
chapel  and  worked  heartily  for  the  welfare  of  its  tiny 
congregation,  and  for  more  than  a  generation  one  of  the 
proudest  memories  of  that  congregation  was  that  the 
'  Great-heart  of  New  Guinea '  was  one  of  their  early 
deans. 

During  his  college  course  Chalmers  entered  into  an 
engagement  of  marriage  with  Miss  Hercus  of  Greenock, 
a  lady,  as  will  appear  in  the  later  pages  of  this  story,  in 
every  way  qualified  to  be  a  worthy  helper  of  such  a 
man.  After  leaving  Cheshunt  Chalmers  went  for  twelve 
months  to  a  Missionary  College  conducted  at  Farquhar 
House,  Highgate,  by  Dr.  John  Wardlaw.  One  who 
knew  him  well  there  has  summed  up  the  main  points  of 
his  character  at  the  close  of  his  college  course :  '  He 
had  his  faults,  as  we  all  have  ;  he  was  too  impulsive ;  he 
was  sometimes  inclined  to  be  very  strongly  prejudiced, 
and  to  take  up  very  unreasonable  positions  ;  nor  was  it 
easy  to  get  him  to  alter  his  views  when  once  formed. 
But  these  failings  were  but  spots  on  the  sun ;  the  great, 
qualities  which  impressed  his  fellow  students  remained 
with  him  and  were  his  power  throughout  his  missionary 
life,  an  intense  humanity,  absolute  fearlessness,  a  beautiful 
simplicity  of  nature,  and  absence  of  selfishness,  and  a 
whole-hearted  devotion  to  the  work  of  the  Lord  Jesus 


Chalmers  as  Schoolmaster  31 

Christ,  to  which  he  had  given  his  life,  and  for  which  he 
was  prepared  to  do  anything  that  might  be  required  in 
the  interests  of  the  great  cause. 

'Some  of  his  fellow-students  in  later  years  were  greatly 
amused  when  they  heard  of  him  at  Rarotonga  as  pre- 
siding over  a  Training  Institution  for  the  preparation  of 
native  evangelists.  We  could  scarcely  imagine  our  old 
associate  tethered  to  the  desk,  or  methodically  teaching 
and  lecturing;  yet  when  I  saw  the  same  Chalmers  at 
Saguane,  walking  up  and  down  the  sanded  floor  of  his 
little  school-chapel,  and  for  the  love  of  Christ  teaching 
some  three-and- twenty  wild  young  New  Guineans  arith- 
metic, geography,  and  the  English  language,  I  fully 
understood  and  appreciated  the  way  in  which  he  would 
undertake  the  duties  of  a  tutor  of  theological  students. 
The  great  missionary  explorer,  with  his  boundless  energy, 
seemed  grotesquely  out  of  place  in  giving  an  elementary 
lesson  to  the  young  New  Guineans,  but  he  did  not  feel  it 
to  be  so.  It  was  work  which  had  to  be  done,  there  was 
no  one  else  to  do  it;  he  therefore  quite  naturally  and 
simply  took  it  up,  prepared  to  hand  it  over  to  any  one 
who  could  do  it  better,  or  to  stick  to  it  as  long  as  it 
was  necessary  for  him  to  do  so.  I  laughed  heartily  with 
him,  and  I  fear  chaffed  him  unmercifully,  but  none  the 
less  I  got  a  new  view  of  his  simple  and  noble  character, 
and  admired  and  honoured  him  more  than  ever  for  his 
devotion  to  duty.' 

The  influences  that  mould  a  boy  or  a  man  are  many 
and  complex.  But  the  highest  and  the  best  is  to  come 
into  close  touch  with  a  noble  and  saintly  personality. 
The  fact  that  he  had  there  passed  through  this  experience 
more  than  anything  else  bound  Chalmers  to  Cheshunt 
by  unbreakable  bonds.  No  two  men  could  possibly 
have  differed  more  in  their  putward  respects  than  Dr. 


32  A  Call  and  the  Answer 

Reynolds  and  James  Chalmers  when  a  student.  The 
one  was  a  quiet  scholar,  an  English  gentleman,  a  man  of 
profound  spiritual  insight,  great  in  prayer,  great  in  his 
power  of  seizing  and  of  applying  to  character  and  to  life 
the  teaching  of  the  Scriptures.  Chalmers  was  a  man  of 
action,  a  man  of  high  spirit,  a  man  who  loved  to  be  in 
the  open  air,  who  was  never  happier  than  when  in  a 
boat  on  the  sea,  or  climbing  a  mountain,  or  facing  a  horde 
of  savages.  Yet  when  many  years  later  Dr.  Reynolds 
sent  him  a  copy  of  his  book  called  The  Lamps  of  the 
Temple,  in  his  letter  acknowledging  the  gift,  Chalmers 
recalls  the  old  college  days.  He  says,  'I  have  been 
listening  to  you  again  and  again,  and  drinking  in  new 
life  from  the  Water  of  Life  flowing  through  you.  I 
have  read  all  these  addresses,  and  to-day  begin  them 
again.  At  times  of  devotion  may  they  be  to  me  as  the 
very  Lamp  of  God !  These  lamps  will  bring  to  every 
college  fellow  the  past,  and  flash  anew  through  his  soul 
thoughts  and  inspirations  that  in  the  past  were  his 
through  you.' 

And  Dr.  Reynolds  on  his  side,  writing  long  years  later 
of  these  college  days,  said :  '  Chalmers  gave  me  the  idea 
of  lofty  consecration  to  the  Divine  work  of  saving  those 
for  whom  Christ  died.  His  faith  was  simple,  unswerving, 
and  enthusiastic,  and  while  he  could  throw  a  giant's 
strength  into  all  kinds  of  work,  he  was  gentle  as  a  child 
and  submissive  as  a  soldier.  He  used  to  pray  for  help 
as  if  he  were  sure  of  the  message  he  had  then  to 
deliver.' 

If  Cheshunt  did  not  give  to  Chalmers  much  of  the 
knowledge  usually  taught  at  such  institutions,  yet  the 
spiritual  life  imparted  through  Dr.  Reynolds  deepened 
even  his  devotion  and  enthusiasm  and  intense  longing 
for  the  salvation  of  men.  On  the  other  hand,  his  vigorous 


Chalmers  a  Joy  to  Others  33 

physical  life,  his  love  of  fun,  his  freedom  from  all  con- 
vention, rendered  Chalmers  a  breezy,  helpful  and  abiding- 
influence  for  good  over  the  men  who  were  with  him  at 
Cheshunt.  One  of  them  said,  in  recalling  his  recollec- 
tions :  4 1  count  it  one  of  the  joys,  the  great  joys  of  my 
life,  to  have  known  James  Chalmers.' 


CHAPTER    III 
IN  PERILS  OF  WATERS 

BEFORE  the  close  of  his  college  training,  the  Directors 
of  the  London  Missionary  Society  decided  that  Chalmers 
should  go  to  the  island  of  Mangaia,  one  of  the  Hervey 
Group  in  the  far  South  Pacific.  But  before  the  time 
came  for  him  to  sail  his  place  of  work  was  changed, 
and  he  was  appointed  to  the  island  of  Rarotonga.  In 
October,  1865,  he  was  ordained  to  the  Christian  ministry 
at  Finchley,  in  North  London,  and  two  days  before  his 
ordination  he  was  married  to  Miss  Hercus. 

Although  only  forty  years  have  passed  since  those 
days,  the  changes  in  the  modes  of  travel  and  in  the  means 
of  reaching  distant  parts  of  the  earth  have  been  so  great, 
that  it  is  hard  now  to  understand  the  conditions  of  that 
time.  In  1 865  there  were  no  steamships  or  even  sailing 
vessels  trading  regularly  to  any  of  the  South  Pacific 
Islands.  And  even  to-day  there  is  regular  mail  com- 
munication with  only  a  few  of  the  groups.  Hence  the 
Societies  at  work  in  the  South  Pacific  found  it  necessary 
to  provide  vessels  of  their  own  which  could  convey  the 
missionaries  to  and  from  their  stations,  and  also  carry 
to  the  different  stations  the  stores  and  goods  and 
publications  required  for  their  work. 

When  John  Williams,  one  of  the  most  famous  mis- 
sionaries connected  with  the  London  Missionary  Society, 
came  to  England  on  furlough  in  the  year  1834,  his 
energetic  and  thrilling  speeches  about  the  wonderful 


The  Ship  'John  Williams'  35 

progress  made  in  the  South  Sea  islands  aroused  such 
enthusiasm  that  a  special  vessel,  called  the  '  Camden,' 
was  purchased  and  set  aside  for  the  work  of  convey- 
ing missionaries  and  their  wives,  native  agents,  and 
teachers  to  these  different  mission  stations.  John 
Williams  went  out  again  in  the  first  voyage  that  the 
'  Camden'  made,  and  in  the  year  1839  was  murdered  by 
the  wild  and  ferocious  natives  on  the  island  of  Erro- 
manga.  The '  Camden '  returned  to  England  in  1 843,  and 
was  then  sold.  As  a  memorial  of  John  Williams,  the 
martyr,  the  children  of  England  raised  £6,000  to  build 
a  new  missionary  ship  on  a  much  larger  scale.  This 
when  launched  was  called  the  'John  Williams,'  and  from 
1844  to  1864  did  splendid  service  in  the  work  of  the 
mission.  But  on  December  10,  1864,  she  became  a 
total  wreck  on  the  coral  reef  of  Pukapuka,  or  Danger 
Island. 

When  the  news  of  this  loss  reached  England  the 
children  of  a  later  generation,  with  enthusiasm  like  that 
of  their  predecessors,  raised  the  money  to  build  a  still 
larger  and  finer  'John  Williams/  In  this  new  vessel 
Chalmers  and  his  wife  sailed  for  Australia  on  January  4, 
1866.  'The  first  "John  Williams,"  '  writes  Chalmers  in 
his  autobiography, '  was  wrecked  on  Danger  Island,  and 
to  replace  her  a  very  fine  clipper  ship  was  built  in  Aber- 
deen, and  also  named  the  "John  Williams."  In  her,  on 
January  4,  1866,  we  left  Gravesend.  The  vessel  was 
commanded  by  Captain  Williams,  and  his  mate  was 
Mr.  Turpie,  afterwards  so  well  known  as  captain  of  the 
third  "John  Williams." 

4  We  had  a  rough  time  in  the  Channel,  and  at  one 
period  it  was  thought  we  should  certainly  be  wrecked, 
and  every  soul  lost.  We  met  and  survived  the  gale 
of  wind  in  which  the  "London  "  was  lost.  We  suffered 

C  2 


36  In  Perils  of  Waters 

a  good  deal  of  damage,  and  put  into  Weymouth  for 
repairs,  where  we  remained  for  over  a  fortnight.  The 
missionaries  and  their  wives  landed,  accepting  the  kind 
and  pressing  invitation  of  the  many  friends  ashore  ;  but 
my  wife  and  I  preferred  to  stay  on  board.  Mrs.  Wil- 
liams, the  captain's  wife,  was  also  on  board.  Through- 
out January  the  weather  continued  bad.  Towards  the 
end  of  the  month  we  weighed  anchor,  and  stood  away 
to  sunnier  climes. 

'  We  had  a  long  stiff  beat  in  getting  to  the  South,  but 
how  we  did  enjoy  the  warm  weather  when  we  got  into 
it!  Our  party  consisted  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Michie,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Watson,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Davies,  bound  for 
Samoa ;  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Saville,  bound  for  Huahine ;  and 
ourselves,  bound  for  Rarotonga.  I  am  now  (1900)  alone 
in  the  field.' 

A  letter  dated, '  Ship  "  John  Williams,"  near  Australia, 
April  25,  1866,'  gives  some  pleasant  glimpses  of  life  on 
the  missionary  ship  after  their  stormy  start  was  over : — 

'  We  are  now  within  900  miles  of  Adelaide,  and  hope 
to  get  there  within  a  few  days.  It  has  been  a  truly 
happy,  pleasant,  and  blessed  time  to  us  all.  We  have 
felt  none  of  the  monotony  of  sea  life,  so  much  spoken 
about,  but  on  the  contrary  have  enjoyed  change  and 
variety  in  the  heavens,  sea,  and  atmosphere.  The  Bible 
class  and  prayer-meetings  with  the  men  have  been 
blessed.  Prayers  offered  on  our  behalf  have  truly  been 
answered,  and  God  has  blessed  souls.  The  careless  have 
been  led  to  inquire  for  salvation,  and  the  praying  on 
board  have  been  aroused  to  greater  earnestness.  Our 
Sabbath  services  and  prayer-meetings  in  the  saloon 
have  been  to  thirsty  ones  wellsprings  of  salvation.  I 
have  enjoyed  and  benefited  much  by  the  voyage  thus 
far,  and  sincerely  trust  it  will  prove  all  through  a  grand 


An  Incident  in  'The  Doldrums'         37 

spiritual  preparation  for  the  great  work.     Souls  and 
God's  glory  are  all  that  we  desire. 

'In  health  God  has  largely  blessed  us.  We  have 
been  in  excellent  health  all  the  way.  After  leaving 
Weymouth  we  had  a  slight  touch  of  sea-sickness,  by 
which  I  think  we  benefited  much.  I  hope  we  won't  be 
getting  like  the  sailors,  land-sick  after  being  on  shore 
a  little.  Mrs.  Chalmers  has  proved  the  best  sailor  of 
the  ladies  in  the  saloon ;  in  fact,  beating  some  of  the 
gentlemen.' 

We  are  able  to  extend  this  somewhat  meagre  sketch 
of  a  long  and  very  interesting  voyage  by  some  extracts 
from  a  diary  kept  by  Mr.  Saville,  one  of  Mr.  Chalmers's 
companions,  who  kindly  placed  it  at  the  disposal  of  the 
author.  Mr.  Saville's  notes  enable  the  reader  to  see  what 
a  voyage  to  Australia  in  a  sailing  ship  in  1866  was  like. 
The  following  incident  took  place  in  that  famous  region 
known  to  sailors  as  4  The  Doldrums  ' : — 

'Friday,  March  2,  lat.  N.  i^S';  long.  W.  23° 40'. 
Yesterday  passed  away  as  many  other  days  have  done 
on  board,  without  anything  particular  taking  place.  It 
was  intensely  hot,  and  some  parts  of  the  day  there  was 
not  a  puff  of  wind.  To-day  we  have  had  plenty  of 
recreation  and  excitement.  Early  this  morning  we  found 
ourselves  at  good  signalling  distance  from  a  well-built 
iron  clipper  barque,  and  though  we  scarcely  expected 
that  the  master  of  the  ship  would  signal  with  us,  yet  our 
captain  had  a  try.  Our  ensign  was  hoisted,  and  very 
soon  they  replied  by  hoisting  theirs.  Some  time  before 
breakfast  we  were  engaged  in  a  very  pleasant  and  friendly 
chat.  We  learned  from  the  captain's  signals  that  her 
name  was  "  Arequipa,"  that  she  was  from  Liverpool  and 
bound  for  Arica,  a  Peruvian  port  on  the  west  coast  of 
South  America,  and  that  she  was  thirty-one  days  out 


38  In  Perils  of  Waters 

from  Liverpool.  We  answered  a  number  of  questions 
which  her  captain  put  to  us,  thanked  him  for  his  kind- 
ness, and  bade  him  farewell  and  a  pleasant  voyage,  little 
thinking  that  we  should  have  still  closer  converse  with 
him  before  we  finally  parted. 

'  After  breakfast  we  hurried  on  deck  to  see  how  far  our 
friendly  ship  had  gone  from  us,  when  to  our  astonishment 
we  found  that  whilst  we  were  quite  becalmed  she  had  met 
with  a  strong  current  of  wind  which  had  brought  her 
within  almost  speaking  distance  of  us.  At  first  she 
was  on  our  starboard  side,  but  in  a  very  short  time 
she  was  carried  across  our  bows,  and  not  long  after 
this  she  was  close  to  our  port  side.  Whilst  we  were 
down  at  prayers  the  wind  carried  her  round  our  stern, 
and  very  soon  after  this  she  was  again  on  our  starboard. 
These  strange  manoeuvres  were  to  us  an  interesting 
illustration  of  the  remarkable  and  changeful  winds  which 
are  invariably  met  with  in  these  latitudes. 

'  After  we  had  both  got  fairly  into  the  same  current  of 
wind,  they  signalled  to  us  to  know  if  all  were  well  on 
board  ;  they  then  asked  us  if  we  would  come  on  board. 
We  had  scarcely  expected  such  an  invitation,  but 
Captain  Williams  at  once  signalled  that  he  would  send 
a  boat.  Then  commenced  the  excitement.  Such  a 
pleasant  change  in  our  sea  life  was  very  agreeable  to 
all  of  the  brethren,  and  we  could  hardly  have  been  more 
excited  in  our  preparations  if  we  had  been  just  making 
ready  to  go  ashore  at  Adelaide.  The  boat  was  soon 
lowered  and  manned,  and  we  were  rowed  speedily  in 
the  little  craft  alongside  the  "Arequipa,"  which  was  about 
half  a  mile  from  our  own  ship.  As  we  rowed  away  the 
"John  Williams  "  looked  beautiful  with  her  sails  all  set  and 
gently  filled  with  the  light  wind  which  was  blowing. 

*  We  received  a  kind  welcome  on  board  the  "Arequipa" 


The  Fast  Clipper,  'John  Williams*       39 

from  the  captain.  He  had  but  one  passenger  on  board. 
He  did  not  seem  particularly  interested  when  he  learned 
that  ours  was  a  missionary  ship.  His  chief  reason  for 
getting  us  on  board  was  to  learn  how  it  was  we  had 
beaten  him  in  speed.  On  the  previous  evening  he  had 
sighted  us  many  miles  astern  of  him,  but  when  daylight 
came  he  found  us  ahead  of  him.  He  said  he  had  beaten 
every  ship  he  had  seen  since  leaving  port  till  ours  came 
in  sight.  We  were  not  surprised  at  this,  for  we  have 
got  ahead  of  every  vessel  we  have  met  since  we  left 
Gravesend,  no  matter  how  lightly  built  or  how  much  sail 
they  carried.  We  have  made  many  a  captain  sore  beside 
the  master  of  the  "  Arequipa."  We  told  him  that  there 
was  not  a  ship  upon  the  waters  which  could  beat  us  for 
speed,  and  I  do  not  think  there  is.  He  would  not  believe 
us,  but  boasted  finely  about  his  own ;  and  indeed  he  had 
reason  for  doing  this,  since  she  was  beautifully  built. 

'After  some  friendly  teasing  on  both  sides  we  got 
back  again  into  our  boat,  and  as  we  pushed  off  the  crew 
of  the  "Arequipa"  gave  us  three  noisy  cheers,  and  we 
returned  the  compliment  by  three  still  noisier  ones. 
Meanwhile  a  breeze  sprang  up,  and  directly  we  had 
left  the  ship  the  captain  set  every  available  sail  in  order 
to  get  the  start  of  the  "John  Williams."  But  the  effort 
was  futile.  For  some  time  he  kept  ahead  of  us,  and 
signalled  to  know  if  he  should  put  a  tow-line  out  to 
help  us  along.  In  a  very  short  time  he  was  behind  us, 
and  we  then  asked  him  if  we  should  put  two  tow-lines 
out  to  assist  him  to  follow  us.  Before  night  he  was 
many  miles  astern  of  us.' 

The  next  incident  illustrates  the  diversions  that  used 
to  be  common  on  sailing  vessels,  but  have  become  im- 
possible since  the  advent  of  the  steam-driven  ocean 
greyhounds : — 


4O  In  Perils  of  Waters 

*  We  had  fine  sport  early  yesterday  morning.  Imme- 
diately after  I  had  taken  my  bath  on  deck  a  shark  was 
seen  at  the  stern.  All  the  men  were  determined  to  have 
this  one,  as  we  had  been  disappointed  of  a  small  one  on 
a  previous  occasion.  A  piece  of  pork  was  placed  on 
a  great  hook  which  was  made  fast  to  a  strong  rope.  He 
soon  noticed  it  when  it  was  dropped  into  the  water,  and 
after  smelling  it,  turned  over  on  his  back,  opened  his 
great  mouth,  and  took  it  in.  All  hands  then  pulled 
lustily  at  the  rope,  but,  alas !  when  he  had  been  raised 
some  distance  out  of  the  water  he  got  clear  of  the  hook, 
and  swam  away.  But  he  could  not  resist  coming  again, 
the  morsel  was  too  sweet  for  him  to  lose.  So  back  he 
came,  smelt  again,  turned  over  his  great  body  once  more, 
closed  his  immense  jaws  upon  the  piece  of  pork  and 
hook,  and  then  once  more  the  ropes  were  pulled.  This 
time  he  was  hoisted  far  above  the  water,  a  noose  was 
passed  over  his  head,  another  over  his  tail,  and  the 
monster  was  brought  on  deck.  He  struggled  with 
terrible  force,  but  had  no  chance  for  escape ;  his  great 
jaws  opened  and  closed  with  immense  fury,  and  if 
any  of  us  had  been  caught  by  them  we  must  certainly 
have  come  off  minus  a  limb.  We  measured  the  great 
fish,  and  found  him  to  be  6  feet  lof  inches  in  length.  This 
the  sailors  call  a  small  shark.  The  monster  was  soon 
cut  up,  but  although  his  tail,  fins  and  spine  were  removed, 
and  his  bowels  taken  out,  he  continued  tor  an  hour  or 
more  to  struggle  with  much  violence,  and  to  open  and 
close  his  mouth  in  such  a  manner  that  it  would  not  have 
been  safe  to  have  had  one's  leg  near  it.  In  the  afternoon 
some  parts  of  the  fish  were  cooked  for  the  sailors,  which 
they  appeared  to  enjoy  quite  as  much  as  we  can  relish 
a  piece  of  salmon.' 

The  next  paragraph  is  of  special  interest,  since  the 


The  Island  of  Tristan  da  Cunha         41 

Society  which  publishes  this  book  from  time  to  time  sends 
out  gifts  of  literature  to  the  dwellers  on  the  lonely  little 
islet  referred  to : — 

'  Soon  after  breakfast  some  of  us  were  on  deck,  and 
were  not  a  little  surprised  to  see  through  the  mist,  which 
rested  upon  the  waters,  a  large  ship  at  no  great  distance 
from  us.  We  hoped  to  signal  with  her,  but  to  the  morti- 
fication of  us  all  she  went  ahead  of  us  in  a  very  short 
time,  and  left  us  far  behind.  This  is  the  first  ship  we 
have  met  with  since  we  left  Gravesend  which  has  beaten 
us  in  speed.  The  mists  and  the  clouded  sun  have  also 
disappointed  us  of  a  pleasant  treat.  At  midday  and  most 
of  this  afternoon  we  were  less  than  twenty  miles  from 
the  small  island  called  Tristan  da  Cunha.  There  is  a 
mountain  in  the  island  quite  as  lofty  as  the  one  in  Tahiti, 
and  on  a  clear  day  it  is  easy  to  see  the  island  when  quite 
ninety  miles  from  it.  As  the  mist  became  thinner, 
several  times  some  of  us  thought  we  were  just  able  to 
discern  the  peak,  but  it  was  very  indistinct. 

*  We  found  in  our  almanacks  that  a  total  eclipse  of  the 
moon  was  to  take  place  early  on  Saturday  morning.  We 
thought  we  could  all  very  well  spare  an  hour  from  our 
beds  in  the  night,  so  we  arranged  that  Mr.  Turpie,  the 
chief  officer,  who  was  on  watch  that  night,  should  blow 
the  fog-horn  when  the  eclipse  was  nearly  total.  At 
four  o'clock  a.m.  all  of  us  were  suddenly  aroused  by  an 
immense  blast  of  the  fog-horn,  and  in  a  very  short  time 
most  of  us  were  on  deck.  There  were  a  few  dark  clouds 
occasionally  passing  over  the  moon;  apart  from  this 
everything  combined  to  give  us  a  good  sight  of  an 
eclipse  at  sea.  And  it  was  really  a  beautiful  scene  to 
watch  the  gradual  progress  of  the  shadow  as  it  spread 
over  the  silvery  brilliancy  of  the  moon,  and  to  see  the 
slowly  diminishing  pathway  of  light  which  it  reflected 


42  In  Perils  of  Waters 

upon  the  waters.  We  remained  on  deck  about  an  hour, 
and  were  then  very  glad  to  come  to  our  warmer  quarters 
below.' 

Here  is  another  illustration  of  the  way  in  which,  on  the 
old  sailing  ships,  it  was  possible  to  study  the  natural 
history  of  the  ocean  in  a  manner  seldom  available  to-day  : 

'  During  part  of  this  morning  there  was  no  wind,  and 
our  ship  lay  quite  quiet  in  the  waters,  apart  from  the 
rolling  which  occasional  swells  caused.  This  was  a  first- 
rate  opportunity  for  catching  the  birds,  and  the  boatswain 
with  Mr.  Michie  and  myself  made  an  effort  to  bring  one 
on  board.  A  line  was  let  out  from  the  stern  with  a 
number  of  small  hooks  attached,  on  which  some  pieces 
of  raw  pork  were  made  fast.  For  some  time  the  birds, 
although  they  saw  the  meat,  refused  to  yield  to  tempta- 
tion. At  length  a  fine  albatross  came  down  to  the 
floating  pork,  made  an  effort  to  swallow  it,  and  in 
making  this  attempt  he,  to  our  great  satisfaction,  got 
the  hook  firmly  fixed  in  his  beak.  We  instantly  hauled 
in  the  rope,  while  the  great  bird  tried  in  vain  to  disgorge 
the  unfriendly  morsel  from  his  mouth. 

4  When  we  brought  the  bird  over  the  stern  and  placed 
him  on  the  deck  we  were  surprised  at  his  immense  size 
and  with  his  beauty.  When  flying  about  the  ship  he  did 
not  look  much  larger  than  a  goose,  but  when  he  came  on 
deck  he  proved  to  be  larger  than  any  bird  I  ever  saw. 
We  spread  his  wings  out,  and  I  measured  from  the  tip 
of  one  to  the  tip  of  the  other,  and  found  that  they  were 
more  than  ten  feet  across ;  while  from  the  tail  to  the  end 
of  the  beak  the  measurement  was  three  feet  four  inches. 
The  beak  was  six  or  eight  inches  in  length.  The  parts 
under  the  wings  of  the  entire  bird  were  covered  with 
beautiful  white  feathers.  The  feathers  on  the  other  part 
of  the  body  were  brown.  His  feet,  which  were  a  great 


How  to  catch  an  Albatross  43 

size,  were  of  the  web-footed  kind.  His  legs  were  not 
the  least  use  to  him  on  deck ;  whenever  he  made  an  effort 
to  stand  he  fell  forwards  on  to  his  beak.  These  birds 
can  fly  only  from  the  water.  Although  he  opened  his 
great  wings  many  times  in  his  attempts  to  fly  he  was  not 
able  to  raise  himself  from  the  deck. 

'  The  albatross  did  not  seem  to  be  the  least  alarmed  at 
us,  but  sat  down  quite  content  in  our  midst.  When, 
however,  any  of  us  came  near  enough  to  him  to  defile 
him  with  our  touch  he  made  an  unpleasant  noise  in  his 
throat,  not  unlike  that  of  a  goose,  and  snapped  at  us  with 
his  great  beak,  and  if  any  of  us  had  come  near  enough 
to  allow  him  to  touch  our  fingers  he  would  soon  have 
severed  them  from  the  hand.  Some  of  the  men  begged 
hard  for  him  in  order  that  they  might  make  what  they 
call  sea-pie  of  him ;  but  sailors  generally  have  strange 
superstitions  respecting  the  albatross,  and  most  of  them 
would  sooner  give  up  their  dinner  to  these  birds  than 
kill  them.  Some  of  our  men  cling  to  these  ancient 
superstitions,  and  when  we  had  all  done  looking  at  our 
strange  visitor,  he  was  thrown  overboard  greatly  to  his 
own  satisfaction.  The  bird  was  very  sick  immediately 
on  reaching  water,  and  while  on  board  he  was  vomiting. 
The  sailors  say  these  birds  are  generally  sick  after  being 
on  board  a  ship  for  a  short  time.' 

The  well-known  and  always  feared  'rolling  forties' 
treated  the  passengers  on  the  'John  Williams'  to  a 
trying  spell  of  the  discomfort  accompanying  very  rough 
weather  at  sea : — 

'Thursday,  April  12.  None  of  us  are  likely  to  forget 
the  troubles  of  to-day.  Our  painful  experiences  in  the 
Channel  have  been  brought  afresh  to  our  minds,  and  we 
have  been  made  to  feel  once  more  how  insecure  is  our 
floating  habitation,  and  how  dependent  we  are  for  our 


44  In  Perils  of  Waters 

lives  upon  Him  Who  holds  the  great  waters  in  His  handa 
and  Who  stayeth  the  noise  of  the  tempest  by  His  word. 
Long  before  we  rose  from  our  berths  this  morning  we 
were  uncomfortably  informed  that  the  wind  and  the  sea 
had  risen  considerably,  for  we  were  rolled  from  side  to 
side  of  our  berths  in  such  a  manner  as  made  it  impossible 
for  us  to  sleep.  After  breakfast  I  went  on  deck,  and 
found  the  sea  running  very  much  higher  than  I  had  seen 
it  for  many  weeks  past.  The  sun  was  shining  beauti- 
fully, and  I  thought  as  I  saw  the  majestic  waves  come 
careering  along  with  their  foaming  heads  glistening  in 
the  sunshine  like  so  many  snow-capped  hillocks  spark- 
ling in  the  light  of  day  that  I  had  never,  not  even  on 
land,  seen  a  sight  more  glorious.  As  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach  on  every  hand,  great  hills  of  water  were 
tossing  their  snowy  heads  high  in  the  air.  Sometimes 
our  ship  was  carried  high  upon  their  lofty  summits ;  at 
other  times  we  were  far  below  in  a  valley  of  dark-blue 
waters. 

'  As  the  day  advanced  the  weather  kept  fine,  but  the 
wind  became  stronger,  so  much  so  that  many  of  the  .sails 
were  furled.  A  few  small  seas  broke  over  the  ship  during 
the  morning,  and  made  the  deck  rather  damp.  Apart 
from  this  we  were  as  comfortable  as  when  under  the 
influence  of  lighter  winds.  Some  of  us  went  on  deck 
immediately  after  dinner,  but  fortunately  we  did  not 
remain  there  after  three  o'clock.  Soon  after  that  hour 
an  immense  sea  broke  over  the  ship.  It  fell  upon  the 
deck  with  a  crashing  noise  like  a  clap  of  loud  thunder. 
Its  full  force  came  upon  the  saloon  skylight,  completely 
carrying  away  three  of  the  panes  of  glass,  then  rolling 
down  into  the  saloon  like  a  great  waterfall.  We  were 
all  startled,  and  the  ladies  were  greatly  alarmed.  After 
the  first  rush  of  water  came  down,  the  rolling  of  the 


In  the  *  Rolling  Forties'  45 

vessel  brought  four  or  five  more  torrents  upon  us, 
which  added  not  a  little  to  the  first  alarm. 

'The  water  soon  made  its  way  into  the  cabins,  and 
in  a  short  time  all  light  boxes,  portmanteaus,  shoes, 
slippers,  &c.,  were  floating  about.  For  a  few  minutes 
we  seemed  paralyzed  at  this  sudden  and  forlorn  state 
of  affairs ;  but  we  soon  came  to  ourselves,  and  then 
all  hands  were  quickly  at  work  baling  out  our  rude 
visitor,  and  by  half-past  four  o'clock  we  were  all  com- 
fortably seated  at  the  tea-table.  The  water  made  sad  work 
in  some  of  the  cabins,  but  we  had  nothing  seriously  hurt. 
The  second  mate  was  on  deck  at  the  time  the  sea  came 
over.  He  saw  it  advancing  before  it  broke  over  the  ship, 
and  as  the  mighty  volume  of  water  came  rushing  on,  he 
fully  expected  that  it  would  sweep  everything  from  the 
decks.  Fortunately  only  a  little  of  the  great  mass  came 
on  board,  so  that  in  the  midst  of  our  trouble  we  soon 
felt  that  we  had  great  cause  for  gratitude.' 

Religious  work  was  not  neglected  on  board.  Not 
only  were  regular  services  held  on  the  Sundays,  and 
meetings  for  prayer  both  morning  and  evening,  but  from 
time  to  time  special  meetings  were  held  with  the  crew, 
resulting  in  the  conversion  of  some  of  the  sailors : — 

*  To-night  I  went  forward  to  the  weekly  prayer-meet- 
ing which  our  men  hold  in  the  forecastle.  We  enjoyed 
a  season  of  great  refreshing  from  the  Lord.  I  think 
none  of  us  who  were  present  will  easily  forget  the 
happy  moments  we  spent  together.  God  was  very  near 
to  us.  For  some  time  past  we  have  had  many  manifest 
signs  that  God  was  working  mightily  among  many 
of  our  crew,  and  to-night  our  hearts  were  gladdened 
with  even  more  stirring  tokens  than  we  have  hitherto 
seen.  Mr.  Chalmers  and  I  led  the  little  meeting. 
Many  of  the  men  engaged  in  prayer  in  a  most  touching 


46  In  Perils  of  Waters 

and  fervent  manner.     I  felt  ashamed  of  my  own  piety  as 
I  listened  to  the  simple  earnestness  of  these  good  men. 

*  Towards  the  close  of  the  meeting,  Mr.  Chalmers  said 
we  were  convinced  that  God  was  working  in  the  hearts 
of  some  who  till  recently  had  been  strangers  to  the  love 
of  Jesus,  and  if  any  of  these  would  like  to  unite  with  us 
in  praying  to  God,  we  should  be  glad  if  they  would 
kneel  down  and  pray  with  us.  This  was  no  sooner  said 
than  one  of  the  sailors  fell  upon  his  knees,  and  for  the 
first  time  in  his  life  prayed  in  the  presence  of  others. 
His  prayer  was  only  a  few  words,  but  they  were  touch- 
ing words  rising  from  a  wounded  heart.  Directly  he 
had  finished,  another  of  our  seamen  who  came  on  board 
the  ship,  an  ungodly  man,  strove  to  pray  with  us.  He 
had  never  prayed  with  us  before,  and  so  greatly  were 
our  hearts  gladdened  to  hear  his  voice,  that  I  know  not 
whether  he  or  we  felt  most  during  the  few  moments  he 
was  upon  his  knees.  His  prayer  was  scarcely  heard  by 
us,  for  the  few  sentences  he  uttered  were  broken  by  sobs 
and  strong  feelings.' 

On  May  20  the  'John  Williams'  arrived  in  Adelaide,  and 
received  a  hea/ty  welcome  from  the  Christian  people  of 
that  beautiful  city.  Mrs.  Chalmers's  father  came  from  New 
Zealand,  and  met  his  daughter  and  her  husband.  The 
party  of  young  missionaries  visited  Melbourne,  Geelong, 
Ballarat,  Hobart,  and  Sydney,  where  they  spent  some 
weeks.  The  interest  taken  in  them  and  the  kindness 
shown  in  each  city  and  town  they  visited  were  great. 
They  left  Australia  feeling  that  they  had  many  friends 
whom  they  would  long  remember. 

The  followingletter,  which  appeared  in  The  Australian 
Christian  World  for  May  17,  1901,  refers  to  this  visit  to 
Sydney,  and  illustrates  a  phase  of  Chalmers's  character 
which  was  always  prominent: — 


Chalmers's  Defence  of  a  Friend  47 

1  About  thirty-five  years  ago  five  missionaries,  belong- 
ing to  the  London  Missionary  Society,  arrived  in  Sydney; 
three  of  them  were  young  men,  and  two  were  returned 
missionaries.  The  company  comprised  Messrs.  J.Chalmers 
and  A.  T.  Saville.  All  were  received  warmly  by  the 
Congregational  body  in  that  city.  At  Bourke  Street 
there  was  a  very  large  meeting  held  in  the  Congre- 
gational Church,  the  pastor,  Rev.  Thomas  Johnston, 
presiding.  That  was  the  first  time  I  either  heard  or 
saw  young  Chalmers,  and  I  shall  never  forget  him. 
Mr.  Saville  was  the  first  young  man  to  speak.  He 
made  some  remarks  on  the  work  they  were  about  to 
enter  upon,  and  was  winding  up  his  short  speech  by 
saying  "that  he  trusted  he  would  live  to  see  the 
Australian  colonies  under  one  Federal  Union,"  when 
the  chairman  rose  and  said  with  much  warmth,  "  Come, 
come,  sir,  we'll  have  no  republicanism  here."  Mr.  Saville 
at  once  sat  down.  I  was,  comparatively  speaking,  a 
young  man  then,  full  of  warm  blood,  and  I  felt  indignant 
at  the  manner  in  which  Mr.  Saville  was  addressed. 

'However,  I  had  not  to  wait  long  until  his  friend, 
the  Rev.  James  Chalmers,  was  called  upon  by  the 
chairman  to  speak.  He  at  once  stood  up  in  the  vigour 
of  youthful  manhood,  a  fine  specimen  of  a  young  man, 
just  twenty-five  years  of  age,  about  five  feet  nine  inches 
in  height,  and  with  a  well-knit,  powerful  frame.  He  said, 
"Mr.  Chairman,  before  I  touch  on  the  subject-matter 
I  wish  to  speak  upon,  I  first  wish  to  put  my  friend, 
Mr.  Saville,  right  with  this  audience.  Respecting  the 
federation  of  the  Australian  colonies,  I  endorse  every 
word  he  said,  and  I  trust  also  to  live  to  see  the  colonies 
under  one  Federal  Union.  Mr.  Saville  is  no  more 
a  republican  than  I  am,  and  I  consider  he  is  as  loyal 
to  the  throne  of  England  as  any  one  in  this  room." 


48  In  Perils  of  Waters 

I  have  never  forgotten  the  fire  of  indignation  that  was 
expressed  both  in  the  attitude  and  utterance  of  the 
few  words  I  have  written,  which  I  believe  are  the 
exact  words  spoken  on  the  occasion. 

'Young  Chalmers  was  greeted  with  applause  for  his 
manly  defence  on  behalf  of  his  friend.  I  well  remember 
what  I  said  to  a  friend  at  the  time  :  "  Chalmers  is  every 
inch  a  man,  and  he  will  make  his  mark  in  after  years." 
He  made  a  telling  speech  that  night,  and  there  is  no 
doubt  whatever  that  his  frank,  generous,  manly  bearing 
won  the  hearts  of  the  audience.' 

In  August  the  '  John  Williams '  left  Sydney,  and  stood 
away  for  the  New  Hebrides.  She  had  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Geddie 
and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Neilson  on  board  as  passengers  from 
Sydney,  and  they  were  to  be  landed  on  Aneiteum.  The 
afternoon  she  entered  the  harbour  of  Aneiteum  was  clear, 
and  there  was  a  good  south-east  breeze  blowing.  All 
her  passengers  visiting  the  South  Seas  for  the  first  time 
were  charmed  with  the  new  scenery,  and  were  standing 
aft,  entranced  with  watching  the  many  beautiful  colours 
of  the  reef  near  to  which  they  were  sailing.  Suddenly 
several  were  thrown  down  upon  their  backs  on  the  deck. 
The  vessel  had  struck  upon  an  unobserved  reef  with 
every  stitch  of  canvas  set.  There  she  stuck  hard  and 
fast  for  some  days.  Her  forefoot  was  smashed,  and 
a  great  piece  of  her  false  keel  carried  away. 

Here  again  Mr.  Saville's  diary  gives  fuller  details  of 
this  new  misfortune.  He  wrote : — 

*  Sad  and  unexpected  have  been  the  events  which 
have  transpired  since  I  wrote  here  last.  Our  ship,  of 
which  we  have  boasted  so  much  concerning  her  beauty 
and  strength,  is  now  anchored  in  the  harbour  here, 
broken  and  leaky,  stripped  of  her  cargo,  and  noisy 
with  her  pumps,  which  are  being  worked  night  and 


The  'John  Williams'  on  a  Reef        49 

day  to  keep  her  free  from  water.  Last  Wednesday 
morning,  the  day  after  we  had  sighted  Tanna,  we  were 
gladdened  by  seeing  the  hills  of  Aneiteum  in  the  dis- 
tance. We  were  only  eight  or  ten  miles  from  the 
nearest  point  of  land  at  breakfast  time,  but  it  took  us 
all  day  to  beat  up  to  the  bay  because  of  adverse  winds. 
As  we  neared  the  land  in  different  parts  of  the  island 
we  were  delighted  with  the  lovely  character  of  the 
scenery,  and  with  a  view  of  the  schoolrooms  and  other 
premises  belonging  to  the  mission  which  Mr.  Geddie 
pointed  out  to  us. 

*  Early  in  the  afternoon  the  wind  became  more  favour- 
able and  carried  us  to  a  position  where  by  the  aid  of 
the  glasses  we  could  see  Mr.  Geddie's  home  and  the 
large   neat-looking  chapel.       Very   quickly   after   this 
we  were  fairly  in  the  bay  with  the  surf  foaming  about 
us  on  the  coral  reefs  which  lay  near  the  entrance  to 
the  harbour.     All  our  hearts  were  light  and  joyous 
with  the  prospect  of  so  soon  having  a  near  view  of  this 
lovely  island  and  seeing  for  the  first  time  missionary 
operations,   when   suddenly  alarm  came    upon   all,  as 
the  ship  with  a  great  crash  ran  upon  a  reef  and  fastened 
herself  upon  it.     The  sails  were  put  back,  but  still  we 
were  stationary.    For  a  time  we  all  seemed  to  be  speech- 
less, and  looked  with  wonder  into  the  face  of  each  other, 
not  daring  to  give  utterance  to  what  each  of  us  felt  to 
be  a  fact,  viz.  that  our  ship  had  struck  a  reef  with  great 
violence,  and  was  now  fast  upon  it. 

*  In  a  few  minutes  we  were  surrounded  with  boats  and 
canoes  filled  with  natives,  they  soon  crowded  our  deck, 
and  made  the  scene  even  more  exciting  than  it  was 
before.     Not  one  of  them  were  dressed  alike,  most  of 
them  wore  little  else  than  a  short  covering  over  the 
loins.     Many  of  them  had  their  heads  decorated  with 

D 


5O  In  Perils  of  Waters 

green  leaves,  and  others  with  handkerchiefs  and  caps. 
After  making  for  each  of  us  to  shake  our  hands  they 
speedily  ran  to  the  ropes,  and  helped  our  men  to  back 
the  sails,  and  to  get  the  boats  down  to  the  water. 

'  While  all  of  this  was  going  on,  which  occupied  but 
a  very  short  space  of  time,  our  minds  were  in  a  most 
tumultuous  condition.  The  accident  was  so  sudden 
that  at  first  we  scarcely  realized  it  as  a  fact ;  but  soon 
we  became  anxious  to  know  the  extent  of  the  damage. 
We  wondered  if  we  were  in  danger,  if  the  ship  had 
sprung  a  leak,  and  whether  it  would  be  well  for  us 
to  go  below  and  prepare  to  go  ashore.  We  soon 
became  assured  that  however  much  damage  the  ship 
had  sustained,  she  was  making  little  or  no  water,  and 
therefore  we  were  safe  for  a  time  on  board  of  her.  An 
invitation  was  instantly  sent  from  the  shore  for  us  to 
land  and  leave  for  the  time  our  unfortunate  ship.  v 

'  All  that  day  was  employed  in  turning  out  luggage 
from  the  ship  which  was  afterwards  stowed  away  in  the 
schoolroom  and  a  large  boathouse  on  the  beach.  Several 
native  divers  went  below  the  ship,  and  stuffed  oakum 
in  the  holes  which  the  reef  had  made,  and  nailed  tarred 
blankets  and  pieces  of  wood  over  the  broken  parts. 
This  considerably  lessened  the  leakage,  although  it 
was  still  necessary  for  the  pumps  to  be  kept  constantly 
at  work.  At  low  tide  the  ship  looked  in  a  most  pitiable 
condition,  for  while  her  fore  part  rested  on  the  sunken 
reef,  her  stern  went  down  with  the  falling  tide,  and 
made  her  look  as  if  she  would  plunge  stern  foremost 
into  the  water.  And  this  was  indeed  the  fear  which  was 
felt  by  all  for  some  days,  until  after  being  considerably 
lightened  by  removing  her  cargo,  she  was  heaved  from 
her  dangerous  resting-place  into  deep  water.  This  was 
an  occasion  of  great  joy  to  us  all.  The  natives  gave 


Return  to  Sydney  for  Repairs  51 

a  great  shout  when  she  slipped  from  the  rock,  and  then 
tried  to  give  three  cheers  in  English  fashion. 

4  Tuesday,  September  1 8.  This  day  week  the  "  Day- 
spring  "  arrived  here  with  all  of  the  missionaries  of  the 
New  Hebrides  Mission  on  board  of  her.  In  the  afternoon 
a  meeting  of  the  missionaries  and  captains  of  both  ships 
was  called  to  consider  what  was  the  best  course  to  be 
taken  for  the  repairs  of  the  "John  Williams,"  and  it  was 
decided  that  she  was  to  return  to  Sydney,  and  that 
a  number  of  natives  should  be  engaged  to  go  with 
her  to  help  in  working  the  pumps,  and  that  the  "  Day- 
spring  "  accompany  her  for  the  safety  of  those  on  board. 
The  missionaries  and  most  of  the  luggage  of  both  ships 
were  to  remain  at  Aneiteum  until  the  return  of  the 
"John  Williams.'" 

The  return  voyage  to  Sydney  lasted  nearly  three 
weeks.  Twenty-two  natives  had  been  taken  on  board 
to  work  the  pumps,  and  they  had  to  be  kept  going  day 
and  night  in  order  to  keep  the  'John  Williams'  afloat. 
This  was  too  good  an  opportunity  for  Chalmers  to  lose. 
All  the  other  missionaries  remained  at  Aneiteum,  but 
Chalmers  and  his  wife  returned  in  the  damaged  'John 
Williams.' 

The  Sydney  friends  were  considerably  astonished  to 
see  them  back  so  soon,  and  sorry  indeed  when  they 
heard  the  reason.  The  necessary  repairs  took  six 
weeks.  This  period  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers  occupied 
in  trying  to  arouse  the  interest  of  colonial  friends  in  the 
work  of  the  missions. 

Considering  the  stormy  passage  they  had  through  the 
English  Channel,  and  that  they  had  escaped  total  wreck 
at  Aneiteum  only  by  the  very  narrowest  margin,  the 
travellers  might  reasonably  have  expected  that  the  rest 
of  their  voyage  would  be  peaceful.  But  this  was  not  to 

D  2 


52  In  Perils  of  Waters 

prove  the  case.  They  left  Sydney  on  November  15  with 
the  'John  Williams '  fully  repaired,  and  as  strong  as  ever. 
In  four  weeks  from  the  day  she  left  Sydney  they  had 
finished  all  their  work  at  Aneiteum  and  the  Loyalty 
Isles,  and  with  high  hopes  in  the  hearts  of  her  passengers 
the  ship  went  on  her  way  to  Niue.  She  arrived  there 
on  January  3,  1866,  after  a  passage  of  three  weeks  from 
Mare.  She  had  to  beat  all  the  way,  and  for  nine  days 
before  getting  to  Niue  she  had  to  sail  amongst  dangerous 
reefs  by  dead  reckoning. 

In  the  afternoon  of  January  3  all  the  passengers,  except 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Davies,  who  were  not  very  well,  came  on 
shore  to  see  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lawes,  the  missionaries  then 
living  on  Niue,  and  were  persuaded  by  them  to  remain 
on  the  island  all  night.  Mrs.  Williams,  the  captain's 
wife,  also  remained  on  shore,  leaving  the  captain  to  return 
to  the  ship  alone. 

During  the  night  the  wind  changed,  and  blew  with 
such  violence  as  to  prevent  any  communication  being 
held  with  the  ship  till  the  morning  of  Tuesday,  January  8, 
when  the  captain  came  on  shore  with  the  remainder  of 
Mr.  Lawes'  goods.  After  sending  on  board  a  quantity 
of  cocoanuts,  taro,  and  yams,  presents  from  the  natives, 
Mr.  Chalmers  and  his  wife  accompanied  the  captain  and 
Mrs.  Williams  to  the  ship.  They  hoped,  and  fully 
expected,  to  be  able  to  sail  for  Samoa  next  day. 

The  boats  were  soon  swung  on  the  davits,  and  the 
*  John  Williams '  stood  out  to  sea  for  the  night,  with  a  fair 
breeze.  The  sea  is  so  deep  around  these  coral  islands 
that  at  most  of  them  it  is  impossible  to  anchor.  Soon 
the  ship  was  a  long  way  out.  The  sky  had  a  squally 
appearance,  and  this  brought  comfort  to  those  on  board, 
as  they  knew  a  squall  was  safer  for  them  than  a  calm. 
But  by  half-past  seven  in  the  evening  it  fell  quite  calm, 


A  Ship  in  Peril  53 

with  a  heavy  swell  driving  in  towards  the  land.  A  short 
time  after  this  the  vessel  was  observed  to  have  lost  all  way 
and  to  be  beginning  to  drift  astern.  Still  as  they  were  so 
far  out  to  sea  no  danger  was  apprehended.  All  means 
were  at  once  resorted  to  keep  the  vessel  out  to  sea.  The 
whaleboat,  the  pinnace,  and  the  gig  were  well  manned 
with  rowers,  and  soon  had  the  vessel  in  tow.  The  sails 
were  also  kept  trimmed,  so  as  to  catch  any  wind  that 
might  spring  up.  All  the  native  teachers  on  board  toiled 
at  the  oars  as  well  as  the  sailors.  But  soon  it  became 
evident  that  all  these  efforts  were  of  no  avail.  The  ship 
still  went  astern  ;  nearer  and  nearer  she  approached  the 
dreadful  reef.  About  nine,  Mrs.  Williams,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Davies,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers  went  into  the  saloon 
for  prayer,  whilst  at  the  same  time  the  native  teachers 
engaged  in  prayer  on  the  main -deck.  Fervent  were  the 
prayers  offered  that  the  Lord  would  save  their  justly 
prized  ship — His  own  ship — from  the  doom  that  was 
threatening  her,  and  that  she  might  be  spared  for  many 
years  to  carry  the  good  news  of  salvation  to  these  lovely 
isles. 

After  prayer  they  went  on  deck,  and  fired  off  some 
rockets  and  blue  lights  to  warn  the  friends  on  shore  of 
the  great  danger  they  were  in  ;  though  they  knew  only 
too  well  that  those  on  shore  could  not  help  them.  The 
agony  of  that  hour  was  such  that  none  but  those  who 
lived  through  it  could  realize  it  fully.  The  splendid  ship 
was  being  slowly  and  steadily  drifted  to  destruction,  and 
the  efforts  and  toil  over  which  all  were  breaking  their 
hearts  were  unable  to  save  her. 

The  night  had  become  densely  dark ;  lightnings  began 
to  flash,  and  the  anxious  watchers  on  deck  began  to 
think  that  the  wind  would  spring  up  and  save  her.  But 
not  a  breath  of  air  could  be  felt.  '  About  ten  o'clock  the 


54  In  Perils  of  Waters 

gig  was  ordered  alongside,  and  the  ladies  were  dropped 
into  it  from  the  side  of  the  vessel.  There  was  no  time  for 
ceremony ;  there  were  seventy-two  souls,  including  several 
native  women  and  children,  on  board.  Already  the  back 
swell  of  the  reef  could  be  felt.  By  twenty  minutes  past 
eleven  all  were  in  the  boats.  A  few  minutes  after  the 
vessel  struck  full  on  the  reef  with  a  terrible  crash  that 
soon  destroyed  all  hope  that  she  could  be  saved,  and 
sent  a  pang  through  the  hearts  of  the  anxious  watchers. 
They  loved  the  vessel,  and  it  seemed  like  losing  a  friend 
to  lose  her. 

4  The  position  of  those  in  the  boats  was  not  very  com- 
fortable. They  had  put  a  few  things  into  bags,  but 
these  had  had  to  be  left  on  the  deck.  It  rained  as  it  can 
rain  only  in  the  tropics,  and  they  were  some  miles  from 
the  mission  premises.  The  shipwrecked  passengers  and 
crew  made  for  these  as  soon  as  they  could,  keeping  the 
boats  together  by  ropes.  It  was  very  dark,  but  they 
found  out  the  way  by  means  of  a  succession  of  torches 
which  the  natives  kept  lighting  on  shore.  By  three  a.m. 
they  all  reached  the  landing-place.  The  surf  was 
very  high,  thundering  heavily  on  the  reef.  No  boat 
could  possibly  get  near  the  beach  that  night.  But  the 
natives  came  off  in  canoes,  and  took  the  forlorn  travel- 
lers out  of  the  boats  and  brought  them  safely  through 
the  heaviest  surge.  They  were  then  dragged  through 
the  surf  on  the  beach  by  the  natives,  and  carried  on  their 
backs  up  a  long  extent  of  steep  rocks,  over  which  the 
surf  was  constantly  rushing.  By  half- past  four  a.m.  all 
were  safely  landed.  They  were  very  wet,  very  cold,  very 
weary ;  but  by  using  precautionary  measures  at  once  all 
escaped  illness.' 

Mr.  Chalmers's  narrative,  as  given  above,  tells  the  story 
as  it  appeared  to  those  on  the  ill-fated  ship.  Mr.  Saville's 


Friends  on  Shore  alarmed  55 

diary  describes  the  events  as  they  appeared  to  the  friends 
who  had  been  left  ashore  on  Niue. 

'  We  spent  a  very  happy  evening  together ;  we  had 
a  number  of  the  natives  collected  in  one  of  the  rooms, 
and  I,  with  the  assistance  of  the  carpenter,  was  doing 
my  best  to  teach  them  a  couple  of  tunes.  They  are 
excellent  singers,  and  during  the  short  time  we  spent 
with  them  they  could  nearly  sing  the  National  Anthem 
and  tune  Evan.  I  arranged  to  meet  them  two  hours 
before  breakfast  in  the  morning  in  order  to  make  them 
perfect  in  these  tunes  before  leaving  the  island,  little 
thinking  how  our  happy  pleasures  would  be  disarranged 
by  a  disaster,  the  beginning  of  which  was  already  filling 
the  remainder  of  our  party  with  sorrow  and  anxiety. 

'Towards  ten  o'clock  the  carpenter,  who  had  been 
outside,  came  hurriedly  into  the  house  telling  us  that 
they  were  sending  up  rockets  from  the  ship.  We  all 
ran  out,  and  after  looking  through  the  darkness  for 
a  time  we  saw  several  rockets  shoot  into  the  air.  At 
first  we  tried  to  encourage  the  thought  that  they  were 
only  sending  these  up  for  the  amusement  of  the  natives, 
but  when  presently  they  burnt  a  blue  light  on  the  ship  we 
felt  convinced  that  something  serious  was  the  matter,  and 
that  they  required  help.  The  blue  light  also  enabled  us 
to  see  that  they  were  not  so  far  from  the  rocks.  Fires 
were  instantly  lighted  opposite  the  house,  and  the  natives 
were  aroused  in  all  directions.  A  great  canoe  was  put 
into  the  water  filled  with  natives.  Twice  the  heavy  seas 
washed  it  back  again  on  to  the  reef;  a  third  time  it  was 
safely  launched. 

1  Mr.  Watson,  the  carpenter,  and  myself,  accompanied 
by  a  few  natives,  started  at  full  gallop  for  the  point  of 
rock  opposite  to  which  we  saw  the  lights  of  the  ship. 
The  night  was  inky  dark,  which  made  the  narrow  coral 


56  In  Perils  of  Waters 

way  along  which  we  hastened  exceedingly  difficult  and 
dangerous  for  our  feet.  At  length  the  men  got  torches 
made  of  sticks  brought  by  women  from  the  houses  on 
our  way,  and  these  helped  us  a  little.  While  we  ran 
along  the  natives  kept  up  a  continual  hooting,  which 
sounded  strange  and  almost  horrible  in  the  middle  of  the 
night.  By  this  shouting  they  aroused  all  sleepers,  and 
informed  them  that  the  ship  was  in  trouble. 

4  After  running  for  nearly  four  miles  we  scrambled  to 
the  edge  of  a  jutting  rock,  and  there  some  distance 
before  us  to  our  dismay  we  saw  the  "John  Williams" 
almost  close  under  the  rocks.  Through  the  darkness 
we  ran  on  still  further.  Then,  by  the  aid  of  the  natives, 
we  were  conducted  over  a  shaggy  extent  of  coral  till  we 
reached  the  summit  of  a  precipice.  We  looked  down. 
The  angry  surf  was  foaming  and  boiling  below ;  and  in 
the  midst  of  this  the  dim  light  of  the  native  torches 
enabled  us  to  see  our  ship  rolling  to  and  fro  upon  the 
reef.  Every  wave  which  struck  her  sent  her  crashing 
upon  the  coral  reefs.  She  had  all  her  sails  set.  The  top 
parts  of  two  of  her  masts  were  already  broken,  and  we 
were  expecting  every  moment  to  see  all  of  her  heavy 
iron  masts  break  off,  and  fall  with  great  weight  over  her 
side.  Sea  after  sea  rolled  against  her  with  immense 
force.  Still  her  masts  stood  well. 

'  We  were  very  anxious  to  know  if  any  one  was  on 
board,  or  if  they  had  left  in  the  boats.  We  shouted 
again  and  again  ;  but  no  sound  of  human  voice  came  in 
return.  The  lights  continued  to  burn  in  the  saloon,  for 
we  could  see  them  flickering  through  the  skylight.  We 
were  greatly  relieved  at  length  to  see  a  rocket  dart  up 
through  the  darkness  from  some  distant  object  in  the 
water,  since  we  were  pretty  sure  it  came  from  one  of  the 
ship's  boats.  This  was  followed  by  several  blue  lights, 


The  'John  Williams'  a  Total  Wreck    57 

all  of  which,  showed  us  that  the  boats  were  making  for 
the  mission  station. 

4  During  all  this  time  the  darkness  was  terrible,  and  the 
rain  came  down  in  torrents.  The  natives  brought  great 
leaves  to  shelter  us,  but  notwithstanding  this  we  were 
saturated  with  wet.  They  also  brought  great  logs  of 
wood  and  made  fires  to  keep  us  warm.  But  we  had 
become  cold  and  wet,  and  could  do  nothing  to  the  wreck 
till  daylight,  so  we  turned  our  faces  to  return  to  the 
station,  with  our  minds  stunned  with  what  we  had  seen. 
It  seemed  to  us  a  dream.  We  could  not  believe  that  our 
ship,  the  pride  of  so  many,  the  new  "  John  Williams,"  was 
lost  with  all  our  earthly  possessions  except  those 
which  we  carried  on  our  backs.  A  thousand  thoughts 
hurried  through  our  bewildered  brains  as  we  retraced  our 
steps  to  tell  the  anxious  ones  at  Alofi  of  what  our  eyes 
had  seen. 

'  The  rain  continued  to  come  down  heavier  and 
heavier,  and  the  darkness  seemed  to  increase  about  us. 
In  the  midst  of  all  this  the  natives  kept  up  their  constant 
wild  crying  and  shouting,  which  distracted  and  distressed 
one  still  more.  We  reached  the  mission  premises  at  last 
without  a  dry  thing  upon  us.  It  was  then  nearly  three 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  Canoes  had  been  out  to  the 
boats  and  brought  the  joyful  news  that  every  one  was 
saved.  There  were  seventy -three  in  all,  and  of  these 
a  great  many  were  Rarotongan  and  Samoan  teachers 
with  their  wives  and  children  returning  to  their  homes. 

'  No  one  thought  they  would  venture  to  bring  the 
boats  ashore  before  daylight,  for  the  sea  was  rolling 
in  so  strongly  towards  the  land  that  it  was  almost 
impossible  to  enter  the  boat-opening  in  the  reef  with 
safety.  They  were  all,  however,  so  drenched  with  the 
pouring  rain,  and  so  cold  in  consequence,  that  they  chose 


58  In  Perils  of  Waters 

to  come  ashore  by  being  transferred  to  the  canoes.  We 
got  all  the  blankets,  dry  clothes,  and  stimulants  we  could 
find,  ready  for  these  shipwrecked  sufferers,  and  as  they 
were  brought  in  one  by  one  we  did  our  best  to  restore 
them  from  their  fainting  and  half-drowned  condition. 

4  When  things  had  quietened  down  a  little  they  told 
us  the  tale  of  the  wreck,  the  substance  of  which  was  that 
they  were  drifted  to  the  shore  in  a  calm,  just  as  the  old 
ship  was  lost,  and  just  as  this  ship  would  have  been 
lost  the  previous  night  if  the  wind  had  not  sprung  up. 
They  found  they  were  being  carried  towards  the  land 
by  the  swell  of  the  sea  at  sunset.  Every  stretch  of 
canvas  was  raised  in  order  to  catch  the  faintest  breeze 
of  wind  which  might  blow  from  the  shore,  and  the 
three  boats  were  lowered  in  order  to  take  the  ship  in 
tow.  They  were  drifting  too  fast  ashore,  however,  for 
the  boats  to  hold  her  back,  on  and  on  she  went  till  it 
was  found  there  was  no  hope.  All  were  then  ordered 
from  the  ship  into  the  boats,  and  so  our  beautiful  ship 
in  the  midst  of  that  dark  miserable  night  was  abandoned 
and  left  a  wreck  upon  the  rocks  of  this  iron-bound  coast. 

'  It  is  now  a  fortnight  since  the  wreck.  Still  the  ship 
has  not  entirely  broken  up.  The  heavy  seas  and  high 
tides  have  carried  her  further  upon  the  reef  into  shallower 
water.  The  great  waves  of  the  surf  continue  to  dash 
and  break  over  her  with  terrible  force.  Her  masts  are 
all  down.  Great  holes  are  in  her  sides  through  which 
the  water  is  continually  pouring.  Her  back  is  broken, 
and  she  is  now  a  shapeless  hulk  upon  the  rocks. 

'  A  number  of  natives  ventured  on  board  the  ship  the 
next  morning  at  the  risk  of  the  great  masts  and  yards 
falling  upon  them.  They  dragged  up  from  the  cabin 
every  box  they  could  seize,  then  threw  them  overboard 
to  find  their  way  to  the  beach  as  best  they  could.  It 


Salvage  from  the  Wreck  59 

was  a  pitiful  sight  for  us,  as  we  stood  upon  the  rocks,  to 
see  the  things  we  had  prized  floating  upon  the  water,  or 
lying  wet  and  spoilt  in  heaps  upon  the  rocks.  Next  day 
I  was  carried  on  a  native's  shoulder  to  the  side  of  the 
ship,  which  I  soon  climbed  by  means  of  a  rope  ladder. 
She  was  lying  nearly  on  her  side,  and  every  sea  which 
struck  her  sent  her  crashing  against  the  rocks  as  if  all 
her  timbers  were  about  to  separate,  so  that  it  was  only 
possible  to  keep  one's  footing  by  holding  firmly  to  what- 
ever was  at  hand.  There  was  plenty  of  water  in  the  hold, 
but  I  managed  to  get  down  to  a  part  where  some  of  the 
things  were  dry,  and  from  there  our  men,  with  the  assist- 
ance of  the  natives,  managed  to  get  a  pretty  good  stock 
of  provisions,  enough  to  supply  us  with  food  for  a  short 
time. 

'  The  natives  have  no  idea  of  the  value  of  property. 
They  found  a  number  of  axes  on  board,  and  with  these 
they  chopped  open  every  case  or  barrel  they  could  find, 
scattering  their  contents  in  all  directions  after  their 
curiosity  had  been  satisfied.' 

In  this  unforeseen  and  unwelcome  manner  the  voyage, 
so  full  of  dangers  and  hindrances,  had  come  to  an  un- 
timely end.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lawes  cared  as  well  as  they 
could  for  their  shipwrecked  friends,  and  taxed  the  re- 
sources of  the  mission  to  the  utmost  to  meet  the  neces- 
sities of  the  large  company  thus  unexpectedly  thrust 
upon  their  hands. 

A  shipwreck  in  the  Pacific  at  that  date  was  a  serious 
matter  for  the  survivors.  Communication  between  the 
islands  was  very  uncertain  and  irregular,  and  a  party  of 
shipwrecked  travellers  might  be  weeks  or  even  months 
upon  an  island  like  the  remote  and  solitary  Niue  before 
a  passing  vessel  appeared  that  could  take  them  either 
part  or  the  whole  of  the  way  to  their  destination.  They 


60  In  Perils  of  Waters 

were  compelled  to  stay  on  Niue  for  some  weeks.  In  the 
interval  Chalmers,  with  his  usual  spirit  of  adventure  and 
eagerness  in  all  physical  exercises,  nearly  lost  his  life. 

The  natives  of  Niue,  in  common  with  those  of  most 
of  the  islands  of  the  Pacific,  are  very  fond  of  surf-swim- 
ming1. This  is  a  sport  which  derives  part  of  its  pleasure 
from  the  danger  involved  in  it.  The  amount  of  danger 
differs  with  the  kind  of  coast  upon  which  it  is  tried. 
Where  there  is  a  level  beach  there  is  comparatively 
little  risk ;  where,  as  in  the  case  of  Niue,  the  beach  is 
rocky  and  broken  there  may  be  very  considerable  danger 
to  any  but  a  strong  and  skilful  native  swimmer.  The 
sport  consists  in  swimming  some  distance  out  to  sea,  the 
swimmer  carrying  with  him  a  small  piece  of  board. 
When  well  out  beyond  the  line  of  breakers  the  swimmer 
waits  until  a  wave  is  passing  that  seems  suitable  for  his 
purpose.  Then  he  skilfully  places  himself  on  the  crest 
of  the  wave  with  the  flat  board  beneath  his  chest.  Thus 
mounted  on  the  very  crest  of  the  rushing  wave  sur- 
rounded by  foam  and  spray  he  shoots  towards  the  shore 
at  almost  express  speed.  Sometimes  the  natives  when 
they  reach  the  breakers  fall  behind  the  wave  or  dive 
backwards  and  allow  it  to  pass  over  their  heads.  The 
South  Sea  Islanders  are  so  much  at  home  in  the  water 
that,  although  the  opportunities  for  dangerous  accidents 
are  exceedingly  numerous  in  surf-swimming,  they  very 
seldom  occur. 

Obviously  to  become  proficient  in  this  sport  one  should 
begin  early  in  life.  Chalmers  watching  the  natives 
enjoying  the  pleasure  it  gives  found  it  impossible  to 
resist  the  temptation  to  indulge  in  it  himself.  The 
result  may  be  given  in  his  own  words: — 

*  During  our  stay  on  the  island  I  nearly  lost  my  life. 
I  was  greatly  interested  in  the  surf-swimming,  and  often 


'BY  A  TERRIBLE  EFFORT  I   CLUNG  TO  THE  ROCK" 


Chalmers  nearly  drowned  surf'Swimming  61 

watched  the  lads  at  it.  One  day  the  sea  was  particularly 
big,  and  I  determined  whilst  bathing  to  try  and  run  in 
on  a  sea  with  a  plank.  I  got  too  far  out,  and  was  sucked 
back  to  the  big  boulders,  and  the  seas  washing  me  about, 
I  got  much  bruised  and  cut.  I  can  remember  feeling 
that  all  was  lost,  when  a  great  sea  caught  me,  and  threw 
me  on  to  a  boulder.  I  felt  that  it  was  now  or  never  with 
me,  and  by  a  terrible  effort  I  clung  to  the  rock,  and,  then 
rising,  gave  one  spring  and  landed  where  the  watchful 
natives  could  bring  help  to  me.  I  was  picked  up  and 
carried  to  the  house.  I  was  in  bed  for  several  days. 
I  never  again  tried  surf-swimming.' 

He  thus  once  again  escaped  from  sea  peril  with 
his  life,  but  a  considerable  part  of  the  six  weeks  which 
the  shipwrecked  were  compelled  to  pass  on  the  Niue 
were  occupied,  so  far  as  Chalmers  was  concerned,  in 
regaining  health  and  strength  after  his  terrible  battle 
with  the  waves.  At  the  end  of  that  time  a  small  schooner 
visited  Niue,  and  on  her  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers,  two  of 
their  fellow-travellers,  and  a  few  members  of  the  crew  of 
the  'John  Williams'  took  passage  to  Samoa.  They  were 
eleven  days  in  reaching  Apia  and  on  that  voyage  they 
ran  out  of  water,  and  had  to  be  placed  upon  very  short 
rations  of  food.  This  experience  illustrates  the  difficulties 
at  that  time  of  South  Pacific  travel.  On  reaching  Samoa 
they  were  very  kindly  received  by  the  little  community 
resident  at  Apia,  and  the  British  Consul  did  all  in  his 
power  for  the  comfort  and  welfare  of  the  shipwrecked 
crew.  Mr.  Murray,  one  of  the  veteran  missionaries  of 
the  London  Missionary  Society,  entertained  all  the  mem- 
bers of  the  missionary  party. 


CHAPTER  IV 

A  PIRATE  OF  THE  PACIFIC 

IN  order  to  understand  the  forlorn  condition  of 
Chalmers  and  his  companions,  we  have  to  bear  in  mind 
that  they  had  lost  all  their  spare  clothing  in  the  wreck, 
and  that  such  things  as  clothing  were  extremely  difficult 
to  replace  at  that  time  and  in  that  part  of  the  world. 
All  the  missionaries  also  were  eager  to  reach  the  stations 
to  which  the  Directors  of  the  Society  had  assigned  them, 
and  among  these  the  most  eager  were  Chalmers  and  his 
wife.  While  waiting  at  Samoa  for  a  ship  that  could  be 
chartered,  there  came  to  that  port  a  brig  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  tons,  called  the  '  Rona.'  It  was  commanded  and 
sailed  by  a  man  who  in  later  years  became  the  most 
notorious  character  in  the  whole  Pacific,  known  at  that 
time  all  over  the  islands  by  the  name  of '  Bully  Hayes.' 
Most  people  would  have  hesitated  to  embark  on  a  ship 
commanded  by  a  man  of  this  type  ;  but  we  are  inclined 
to  think  that  his  personality,  even  imperfectly  known  as 
it  then  was,  rather  attracted  than  repelled  Chalmers. 
At  any  rate,  as  the  result  of  certain  business  negotiations, 
the '  Rona,'  belonging  to  Hayes,  was  chartered  to  go  back 
to  Niue  and  bring  to  Apia  the  remaining  members  of 
the  shipwrecked  crew  and  shipwrecked  party  and  all  the 
spoiled  cargo  that  had  been  saved  from  the  'John 
Williams.' 

On  the  return  of  the  '  Rona '  to  Apia  the  salvage  was 
divided  between  the  missionaries  in  Samoa,  the  Society 


4 Bully  Hayes'  63 

Islands,  and  the  Cook  Islands.  In  order  to  apportion 
the  things  the  missionaries  drew  lots.  Chalmers  writes, 
*  I  had  a  chest  of  tea  in  my  lot,  and  believed  it  good ; 
but  on  opening  it  in  Rarotonga  months  later,  we  found 
that  it  had  been  wetted  and  was  quite  spoilt.' 

Another  six  weeks  were  spent  at  Apia  in  preparation 
for  the  voyage,  and  then  the  'Rona'  sailed  to  convey 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Saville,  Chalmers's  fellow  travellers,  to 
Huahine,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers  to  Rarotonga. 

There  is  no  authentic  account  of  the  captain  in  whose 
ship  Chalmers  made  the  last  stage  of  his  eventful  voyage 
from  England  to  Rarotonga,  but  a  number  of  books  of 
adventure  have  been  written  in  which  his  personality 
and  deeds  form  the  central  part.  Hayes  was  a  giant 
some  six  feet  four  in  height,  and  measuring  round  his 
chest  from  shoulder  to  shoulder  about  four  feet.  He 
was  possessed  of  immense  physical  strength,  and  of  this 
he  was  extremely  proud.  He  was  also  a  handsome  man 
with  bright  blue  eyes,  a  strong  nose  and  well-cut  mouth, 
and  large  moustache,  and  long  clustering  hair.  In  his 
manner,  in  his  figure,  in  his  appearance,  he  was  the 
prominent  personality  in  any  gathering  at  which  he  was 
present.  The  most  marked  feature  in  his  character  was 
a  temper  that  when  once  roused  passed  entirely  out  of 
his  control.  In  these  moments  of  ungovernable  rage  he 
became  little  short  of  a  madman.  Those  who  knew  him 
well  tell  us  that  in  a  moment  his  smiling  face  would  turn 
into  that  of  a  demon  ;  his  eyes  became  almost  black,  and 
his  face  flushed  into  a  deep  purple.  In  these  moments  he 
would  do  deeds  of  the  greatest  cruelty,  not  scrupling 
even  to  take  the  life  of  those  who  offended  him. 

With  Hayes,  as  with  men  of  strong  passions  of  this 
nature,  the  rebound  when  it  came  was  also  extreme.  He 
could  be  generous  to  a  fault,  and  he  could  fascinate  those 


64  A  Pirate  of  the  Pacific 

whom  but  a  few  moments  before  he  had  terrified  beyond 
endurance.  He  was  possessed  of  considerable  culture, 
speaking  German,  French,  and  Spanish  fluently.  His 
career  was  possible  in  the  Pacific  Ocean  in  the  middle 
of  the  nineteenth  century. 

For  many  years  before  the  missionaries  of  the  'John 
Williams '  came  in  contact  with  him  Hayes  was  known 
in  many  parts  of  the  world  as  the  terrible  highwayman 
of  the  seas.  His  scandalous  performances  had  made 
him  an  outlaw  in  almost  every  civilized  port.  If  he  had 
dropped  anchor  in  any  one  of  these  ports  the  '  Rona ' 
would  have  been  seized,  and  he  would  have  been  handed 
over  to  the  Government  officers. 

A  sharp  outlook  was  kept  for  him  at  Melbourne  in 
consequence  of  an  unscrupulous  fraud  he  played  upon 
the  officials  on  the  occasion  of  his  last  visit.  He  had  on 
board  three  hundred  Chinamen  whom  he  had  Jbrought 
from  Hong  Kong.  At  that  time  a  poll-tax  of  £10 
was  paid  by  every  Chinaman  landing  at  Melbourne. 
Before  going  on  board  each  of  these  men  paid  '  Bully 
Hayes'  their  £10  as  well  as  the  charges  for  the  voyage. 
But  the  knavish  captain  had  no  thought  or  intention 
of  paying  over  to  the  Australian  authorities  the  large 
amount  he  had  received  as  poll-tax,  amounting  in  all  to 
something  like  ^3,000. 

When  the  port  was  within  sight  he  with  the  assistance 
of  his  carpenter  managed  to  scuttle  the  vessel  by  making 
a  large  hole  in  the  ship's  side.  In  this  water-logged  and 
apparently  sinking  condition  the  vessel  slowly  entered 
the  harbour.  Hayes  ordered  that  a  flag  of  distress 
should  be  hoisted  on  the  mast-head.  Immediately  the 
pilot  and  a  number  of  tug-boats  put  out  from  the  shore 
to  assist  the  disabled  vessel.  When  they  came  alongside 
the  captain  shouted— telling  them  of  his  sinking,  hopeless 


The  Crimes  of  *  Bully  Hayes'          65 

condition — 'And,'  said  he,  'for  mercy  sake,  don't  stop  to 
tow  us  to  the  shore,  but  save  these  hundreds  of  poor 
distracted  creatures  by  getting"  them  ashore  at  once  in 
your  boats.  I  care  nothing  about  my  own  life,  if  you 
will  only  save  these  poor  fellows.  Then,  when  they  are 
ashore,  come  immediately  for  us.  In  the  meantime  we 
will  work  away  at  the  pumps  to  keep  the  ship  afloat.' 

Accordingly  the  three  hundred  Chinamen  were  passed 
over  the  side  of  the  vessel  into  the  various  tug-boats  and 
conveyed  to  the  landing-place  which  was  several  miles 
away.  Whilst  this  was  being  done  the  hole  in  the  side 
of  the  ship  was  closed.  All  hands  were  put  to  work  on 
the  pumps,  the  bow  of  the  vessel  was  set  towards  the  sea, 
away  went  the  '  Rona '  and  her  scoundrel  of  a  captain. 
He  had  managed  to  land  the  three  hundred  Chinamen, 
and  yet  keep  the  £3,000  poll-tax  for  himself  instead  of 
paying  it  over  to  the  colonial  authorities. 

This  was  a  cruel  business  for  the  Pilot  Company. 
They  had  to  pay  that  large  amount  themselves,  and  it 
nearly  ruined  the  company.  Henceforth,  however, 
Hayes  could  never  again  show  his  face  in  Melbourne  if 
he  hoped  to  escape  prison  life. 

In  like  manner  the  various  ports  of  New  Zealand  had 
become  dangerous  for  him  to  revisit.  On  one  occasion 
he  went  to  Auckland  and  filled  his  vessel  with  a  valuable 
cargo  of  cattle.  He  spoke  of  sailing  on  the  following 
day,  and  promised  that  before  doing  so  he  would  call 
early  in  the  morning  to  settle  with  the  man  from  whom 
he  had  purchased  the  cattle.  But  long  before  the  morn- 
ing dawned  he  lifted  the  anchor,  and  sailed  away  during 
the  stillness  of  the  night  with  his  precious  cargo  for 
which  he  had  not  paid  a  cent. 

At  San  Francisco  Hayes's  vessel  mysteriously  dis- 
appeared in  the  night  with  a  great  cargo  on  board  and 

B 


66  A  Pirate  of  the  Pacific 

a  quantity  of  valuable  jewels  ordered  for  Mr.  Hayes. 
The  outlaw  had  once  more  duped  custom-house  officers, 
merchants,  and  tradesmen.  In  most  of  the  ports  of  the 
China  Seas  he  was  not  only  in  danger  of  prison  but  of 
death ;  for  he  had  there  shed  much  blood  in  effecting 
his  deeds  of  robbery. 

4  This  was  the  man,'  writes  Mr.  Saville,  *  who  when  he 
found  the  large  doors  for  the  world's  commerce  closed 
against  him  turned  his  attentions  to  the  South  Sea 
Islands.  He  had  paid  several  visits  to  Niue  before 
Chalmers  met  him,  and  he  was  also  known  in  Samoa. 
The  missionaries  regarded  him  with  an  air  of  suspicion, 
for  smiling  and  fair  as  he  seemed  to  be,  they  were  not 
quite  sure  of  their  man,  although  the  terrible  facts  of  his 
life  were  then  unknown  to  them. 

'  It  was  a  strange  Providence  which  cast  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Chalmers,  my  wife  and  myself,  for  a  voyage  of  2,000  miles, 
upon  the  tender  mercies  of  this  outlaw.  But  if  the 
association  was  perilous  for  us,  it  was  fortunate  for  him. 
He  was  paid  £500  for  our  passage- money,  and  more 
than  this,  he  was  able  once  more  to  secure  the  confidence 
of  traders  by  announcing  the  fact  that  he  had  become 
a  missionary  captain.  When  we  reached  Tahiti  he 
bought  freely  and  was  trusted  largely.  If  he  had  been 
captain  of  the  "  John  Williams  "  he  could  not  have  been 
treated  better  by  the  merchants. 

*  During  our  voyage  of  six  or  seven  weeks  his  self- 
suppression  was  perfect,  not  a  foul  word  or  oath  escaped 
his  lips.  His  rough  crew  were  kept  in  check  in  the 
same  manner.  Tamate  and  I  were  permitted  to  conduct 
prayers  on  deck  each  day  when  the  weather  permitted — 
and  each  Sunday  we  held  services.  The  day  before  we 
landed  at  Huahine  a  note  was  put  into  the,  hand  of 
Tamate  and  another  into  my  own,  written  in  the  name 


The  Violence  of  'Bully  Hayes'         67 

of  the  captain,  in  which  we  were  thanked  for  the  services 
held  on  board,  and  assured  that  both  the  services  and 
our  society  had  been  of  great  religious  helpfulness  to  all 
on  board.  Not  many  hours  after  receiving-  these  epistles, 
when  we  were  entering  the  harbour  at  Huahine,  the  pent- 
up  passions  of  the  captain  broke  out,  and  in  his  madness 
he  ran  the  vessel  upon  the  reef  and  flung  his  wife's 
jewellery  together  with  a  bag  of  dollars  into  the  sea. 
Fortunately  the  ship  was  removed  from  its  dangerous 
position,  and  we  landed  safely  with  very  thankful  hearts. 

4  Tamate  and  his  wife  had  still  to  be  carried  600  miles 
further  west  to  Rarotonga.  We  trembled  for  their  safety, 
so  did  they.  Afterwards  I  heard  from  my  dear  old 
friend  that  the  remainder  of  the  voyage  was  terrible. 
Daily  oaths  and  curses  pained  their  ears,  and  the  con- 
stant fits  of  passion  from  the  captain  filled  their  hearts 
with  alarm.  When  Rarotonga  was  reached  Tamate  had 
a  very  narrow  escape  of  his  life.  The  captain  tried  to 
run  the  boat  down  in  which  he  was  being  pulled  to  the 
shore. 

'Hayes  bought  the  wreck  of  the  "John  Williams"  for  a 
little  more  than  ;£ioo.  This  was  a  splendid  bargain  for 
him.  He  made  great  profit  out  of  the  purchase.  With 
this  and  with  the  £500  he  had  received  as  our  passage- 
money  he  returned  to  Tahiti,  bought  a  small  schooner 
called  the  "Samoa,"  filled  her  with  a  cargo  of  goods  to  be 
sold  in  the  small  islands  to  the  westward,  and  put  his 
mate  on  board  as  captain.  His  wife  and  twin  children 
had  become  an  incumbrance  to  him.  These  he  left 
unprovided  for  at  Apia. 

1  After  starting  the  "  Samoa  "  on  her  trading  voyage  to 
the  westward,  he  sailed  the  "  Rona  "  to  Huahine.  There 
he  filled  up  with  a  great  cargo  of  oranges  for  British 
Columbia.  But  the  way  of  transgressors  is  hard.  A 

E  2 


68  A  Pirate  of  the  Pacific 

few  days  after  leaving  Huahine  the  vessel  was  overtaken 
by  a  terrific  storm.  She  was  a  rotten,  unsafe  craft,  even 
under  favouring1  circumstances ;  but  exposed  to  the  force 
of  a  great  storm  she  sprang  a  leak,  and  began  to  sink. 
Hurriedly  the  longboat  was  lowered,  a  compass  and 
some  kegs  of  water  and  food  were  put  in  her,  and  Bully 
Hayes  and  his  crew  left  the  sinking  "  Rona"  for  the  boat. 
They  steered  for  the  westward  in  the  hope  of  finding 
the  "  Samoa  "  at  one  of  the  Cook  Islands. 

'  After  many  days  and  nights  of  hardship  in  the  open 
boat  they  reached  Mauke,  and  found  the  schooner  they 
were  seeking ;  but  as  they  came  nearer  to  the  shore  they 
found  she  was  a  wreck  upon  the  reef.  The  captain  and 
crew  were  busy  building  a  boat  from  her  broken  planks 
to  convey  them  to  one  of  the  islands  of  the  Samoan 
group.  So  Hayes  had  now  lost  all  which  he  gained 
through  our  misfortunes. 

'  When  the  boat  was  finished  he  and  the  crews  of  both 
vessels  sailed  for  Samoa.  After  being  there  for  a  time 
he  chartered  a  vessel  and  started  upon  the  kidnapping 
business.  He  made  frequent  voyages  to  savage  and 
heathen  islands.  When  the  natives  came  off  in  their 
canoes  he  decoyed  them  on  board,  induced  them  to  go 
below  to  see  the  goods  which  were  spread  out  to 
fascinate  their  eyes,  he  then  had  the  hatches  closed 
upon  them  and  the  canoes  broken.  The  kidnapped 
savages  were  then  carried  to  the  Fiji  plantations  or  to 
any  other  place  where  he  could  get  a  price  for  them. 

'  After  a  time  the  British  cruisers  were  put  on  his 
track,  but  he  always  cleverly  managed  to  evade  them. 
The  British  Consul  in  Samoa  was,  however,  instructed 
to  take  him  prisoner  if  he  ever  tried  to  land  there.  Not 
knowing  that  he  was  thus  in  danger  he  sailed  his  vessel 
to  Tutuila,  an  island  of  the  Samoan  group.  He  went 


Death  of  'Bully  Hayes'  69 

ashore  in  a  canoe  manned  by  natives ;  but  before  doing 
so  he  thrust  a  couple  of  revolvers  into  his  side  pocket. 
The  natives  observed  this,  and  when  the  canoe  was  half- 
way across  the  bay  an  unexpected  and  unusual  event 
took  place.  The  canoe  was  overturned,  and  away  went 
Bully  Hayes  beneath  the  blue  waters.  The  natives 
immediately  swam  around  him,  delivered  him  from  the 
perilous  waters,  righted  the  canoe,  and  were  profuse  in 
their  apologies  for  the  accident. 

*  Directly  Hayes  stepped  ashore  an  effort  was  made  to 
arrest  him  by  Consul  Williams.  Hayes  drew  his  two 
revolvers  at  once  and  tried  to  fire  at  the  Consul;  but  the 
powder  was  damp.  The  natives  smiled,  and  Hayes  was 
easily  made  a  prisoner. 

'Hayes  was,  however,  easier  to  catch  than  to  keep. 
It  was  hoped  that  he  might  be  kept  until  an  English 
man-of-war  arrived ;  but  long  before  the  expected  vessel 
arrived  he  had  made  his  escape.  It  was  found  that  one 
bright  moonlight  night  he  had  sailed  away  on  board  of 
a  vessel  of  very  questionable  character  to  some  unknown 
port. 

'  Later  on  Hayes  was  again  traced.  This  time  he  was 
trading  in  the  Torres  Straits  in  a  vessel  he  had  obtained 
for  himself  through  fraud.  Still  later  we  read  in  the 
newspapers  that  the  Mexican  authorities  had  placed  "  the 
notorious  Bully  Hayes  "  in  jail. 

1  Last  of  all  we  learned  from  English  newspapers  that 
after  leaving  jail  he  was  once  more  the  captain  of  a 
vessel,  and  that  in  a  quarrel  he  was  murdered  by  his  first 
mate.' 

Such  was  the  type  of  man  who  attracted  Chalmers 
during  his  stay  in  Samoa,  and  he  was  utilized  by  him  for 
the  conveyance  of  the  Savilles  to  Huahine,  and  of  himself 
and  his  wife  to  Rarotonga,  because  no  other  ready  method 


7O  A  Pirate  of  the  Pacific 

presented  itself.  Chalmers  would  rather  go  on  board 
a  pirate  ship  than  wait  week  after  week  at  Samoa. 
And  Hayes  himself  seems  to  have  come  strongly  under 
the  fascination  of  Chalmers's  personality.  4  Hayes,'  he 
tells  us,  '  seemed  to  take  to  me  during  the  frequent 
meetings  we  had  on  shore,  and  before  going  on  board 
for  good  I  met  him  one  afternoon,  and  said  to  him, 
"  Captain  Hayes,  I  hope  you  will  have  no  objection  to 
our  having  morning  and  evening  service  on  board,  and 
twice  on  Sabbaths.  All  will  be  short,  and  only  those  who 
like  to  come  need  attend."  "  Certainly  not ; "  he  replied, 
"my  ship  is  a  missionary  ship  now,  and  I  hope  you 
will  feel  it  so.  All  on  board  will  attend  these  services." 
"  Only  if  they  are  inclined,"  I  replied.' 

'We  were  well  treated  on  board,'  writes  Chalmers. 
'  Hayes  was  a  perfect  host,  and  a  thorough  gentleman. 
His  wife  and  children  were  on  board ;  and  although  we 
had  fearful  weather  nearly  all  the  time,  yet  I  must  say  we 
enjoyed  ourselves.  Instead  of  going  to  Rarotonga  first, 
we  had  gone  so  far  south  that  we  could  easily  fetch 
Tahiti,  and  so  we  stood  for  it,  causing  us  to  be  much 
longer  on  board.' 

The  Savilles  were  landed  in  due  course  at  Huahine, 
and  then  the  '  Rona '  called  at  Mangaia,  where  Chalmers 
and  his  wife  were  very  kindly  received  by  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Wyatt  Gill  and  their  people.  They  arrived  on 
a  Sunday  in  stormy  weather,  and  landed  just  after  sunset. 
On  Monday  morning  Mr.  Chalmers  returned  to  the 
ship  for  Mrs.  Chalmers,  and  about  midday  they  went 
ashore  with  the  captain,  hoping  to  return  in  the  evening. 
The  wind  was  easterly  and  very  strong.  The  boat 
remained  outside  the  reef,  going  to  and  trom  the  ship 
with  goods  and  provisions.  About  dark,  a  wet  and 
disagreeable  night,  the  boat  was  ready  outside  the  surf 


A  Narrow  Escape  71 

to  return  to  the  ship.  Both  the  captain  and  Chalmers 
were  anxious  to  get  on  board,  and  were  quite  ready  to 
go,  but  the  natives  refused  to  put  them  over  the  reef, 
as  it  was  very  rough.  The  captain  offered  them  five 
dollars  to  get  on  board.  Neither  requests  nor  commands 
moved  them,  the  pilot  saying,  '  It  is  easy  for  me  to  take 
you  to  the  boat,  but  I  feel  certain  that  boat  will  never 
reach  the  ship.'  Little  did  they  suppose  that  by  this 
refusal  their  lives  were  preserved. 

The  boat  left  for  the  ship  which  lay  off  and  on,  at  no 
great  distance  from  the  reef.  All  night  they  felt  anxious 
about  the  ship,  for  the  night  was  dark  and  stormy.  The 
next  morning  no  ship  was  to  be  seen,  and  it  was  not 
until  Thursday  she  hove  in  sight.  The  captain  went  on 
board  immediately.  Soon  a  flag  went  up,  but  alas!  it 
was  only  half-mast,  then  another.  It  too  was  half-mast. 
What  could  be  wrong?  Mr.  Gill  and  Chalmers  got  a 
canoe  and  went  off,  but  before  getting  to  the  ship  they 
saw  what  was  wrong.  No  whaleboat  could  be  seen  on 
the  starboard  davits,  and  getting  on  board  they  found 
the  boat  had  never  reached  the  ship.  There  were  two 
men  in  the  boat,  one  a  native  of  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
who  was  second  mate,  and  the  other  a  native  of  Ireland, 
named  Hughes,  who  was  working  his  passage  from 
Huahine.  The  supposition  is  that  the  boat  was  swamped, 
or  was  run  down  by  the  ship.  They  were  last  heard 
cooeying  close  to  the  ship  but  could  not  be  seen. 
Chalmers  writes ;  '  We  had  had  many  merciful  deliver- 
ances since  we  set  sail  from  Gravesend  on  January  4, 
1 865,  and  again  our  prayer  was  that  life  thus  preserved 
might  entirely  be  devoted  to  the  service  of  God.' 

The  rest  of  the  voyage  to  Rarotonga  passed  without 
any  special  or  exciting  incident.  On  May  20,  1867,  the 
vessel  anchored  in  the  harbour  of  Avarua.  Chalmers 


72  A  Pirate  of  the  Pacific 

was  the  first  to  land,  and  as  he  was  being-  carried  ashore 
from  the  boat  by  a  native,  the  latter  asked, '  What  fellow 
name  belong-  you  ? '  He  wished  to  know  in  order  that 
he  might  shout  the  name  out  to  those  who  were  standing 
on  the  shore.  Chalmers  answered  '  Chalmers,'  and  the 
native  roared  out  'Tamate.'  This  was  the  nearest 
approach  to  the  sounds  of  the  missionary's  name  that 
a  South  Sea  Islander  could  make.  It  was  in  this  way 
that  Mr.  Chalmers,  just  as  he  was  first  setting  foot  on  the 
island  of  Rarotonga,  received  the  name  by  which  he 
was  to  become  known  in  that  lovely  little  island  of  the 
far  Pacific,  and  then  in  later  years  over  the  whole  of  the 
South  Eastern  Coast  of  New  Guinea. 


c 


CHAPTER    V 

THE  GEM  OF  THE  PACIFIC 

THE  title  of  this  chapter  is  an  apt  description  of  the 
island  of  Rarotonga  upon  which  Chalmers  was  to  spend 
the  next  ten  years  of  his  life.  Scattered  about  through 
the  vast  Pacific  Ocean  are  many  islands  of  extreme  beauty, 
and  Rarotonga  holds  a  front  place  in  this  respect.  It 
consists  of  mountains  that  rise  up  abruptly  to  a  height 
of  about  4,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
slopes  in  these  mountains  contain  lovely  little  valleys, 
and  they  are  wooded  with  palms  and  with  beautiful  trees 
down  to  the  level  of  the  sea. 

Entirely  surrounding  the  island  is  a  great  barrier  reef 
of  coral  forming  a  huge  protective  wall.  This  reef  varies 
from  a  few  feet  to  nearly  half  a  mile  in  width.  At  low 
tide  most  of  it  is  bare,  at  high  tide  it  has  upon  it  from  four 
to  six  feet  of  water.  Here  and  there  in  the  course  of  the 
reef  are  openings  which  allow  canoes  to  pass  in  and  out. 
One  or  two  of  these  openings  are  large  enough  to  admit 
small  vessels.  This  coral  reef  forms  a  huge  barrier  against 
which  the  mighty  waves  of  the  Pacific  of  deepest  blue  rise 
to  a  height  of  more  than  twenty  feet  and  then  curling- 
over  break  in  myriad  forms  of  silvery  white  spray.  On 
the  other  side  of  the  lagoon  within  the  reef  is  a  long 
white  sandy  beach  varying  from  ten  to  a  hundred  feet 
wide,  forming  a  natural  margin  round  the  whole  of  the 
island.  It  is  richly  covered  with  groves  of  chestnut, 


74  The  Gem  of  the  Pacific 

cocoanut,  bread-fruit  and  banana  trees.  So  far  as  out- 
ward beauty  goes  no  spot  on  earth  could  be  lovelier, 
and  the  conditions  of  life  there  are  such  that  with  very 
little  labour  the  necessary  food  and  clothing  can  be 
procured. 

In  the  earlier  part  of  the  nineteenth  century  this 
paradise  of  the  Pacific  was  the  home  of  most  revolting 
cruelty  and  degraded  savagery.  The  island  was  occupied 
by  two  or  three  tribes  that  were  continually  at  war  one 
against  another.  The  power  of  the  chief  was  absolute. 
All  the  property  on  the  island,  all  the  lives  on  the  island 
were  absolutely  at  his  disposal.  In  the  old  heathen  days 
the  chief  of  the  tribe  was  carried  about  on  the  shoulders 
of  men  because  his  feet  were  too  sacred  to  tread  the 
common  earth.  Whenever  he  rested,  it  was  upon  the 
bodies  of  his  slaves,  and  so  sacred  was  he  that  if,  as  he 
passed  by,  his  shadow  fell  upon  any  of  his  tribesmen, 
the  man  was  immediately  killed  since  the  shadow  of  the 
chief  falling  upon  him  had  made  him  sacred. 

The  religious  ideas  of  the  people  necessitated  human 
sacrifices  in  order  to  avert  the  anger  of  the  gods.  One 
of  the  missionaries  who  spent  long  years  upon  the  island 
soon  after  its  conversion  to  Christianity  tells  us  that 
whenever  the  people  had  reason,  from  famine  or  sickness 
or  war  or  death,  to  think  that  the  gods  were  angry  with 
them,  in  order  to  appease  them,  they  offered  human 
sacrifices.  Two  or  three  natives  either  of  their  own  or 
of  some  other  tribe  were  secured.  Their  arms  and  legs 
were  bound  with  green  thongs,  and  they  were  then 
dragged  to  the  great  altar  of  sacrifice  on  which  they 
were  presented  alive  to  the  gods,  the  priest  at  the  same 
time  confessing  the  sins  of  the  people,  and  asking  the 
gods  to  remove  the  calamity.  When  this  ceremony 
was  over  the  living  bodies  of  the  victims  were  placed 


The  Oven  of  Sacrifice  75 

upon  an  immense  oven  of  red-hot  stones  and  there 
sacrificed  as  an  atonement  for  the  sins  of  the  people. 

Dr.  Gill,  in  a  book  written  in  the  year  1855,  says: — 
'  Three  or  four  years  ago,  in  company  with  a  few  old 
men,  who  had  spent  the  first  years  of  their  manhood  in 
heathen  life,  I  visited  this  great  oven  of  national  sacrifice. 
The  paths  leading  to  it  had  long  since  grown  over  with 
brushwood,  which  we  had  to  cut  down  as  we  advanced. 
On  reaching  the  spot  I  found  an  area  of  comparatively 
clear  ground  about  a  hundred  feet  in  circumference, 
surrounded  by  high  trees  and  dense  bush.  In  the  centre 
was  a  pit  five  feet  deep  and  twelve  feet  wide.  This  pit 
used  to  be  filled  with  firewood,  on  the  top  of  which  were 
piled  large  basaltic  stones.  These  were  heated  to  a  red- 
hot  heat,  and  as  the  wood  consumed  they  sank  to  a  level 
with  the  ground.  This  was  the  oven,  and  on  it  the  living1 
human  sacrifices  were  placed  and  burnt  to  death,  as  an 
atonement  for  the  sins  of  the  people.  As  we  gazed  on 
this  scene,  and  remembered  the  generations  of  bygone 
days,  our  hearts  were  filled  with  emotions  of  mournful 
interest ;  and,  singing  a  hymn,  expressive  of  sympathy 
with  the  heathen  yet  in  darkness,  we  retired,  praising 
God  that  the  knowledge  of  the  true  atonement  for  sin 
had  been  brought  to  the  inhabitants  of  Rarotonga,  not 
a  few  of  whom  had  proved  its  efficacy  and  rejoiced  in 
its  grace.' 

In  the  same  volume  Dr.  Gill  gives  a  picture  of  the 
cruelties  of  those  old  savage  and  cannibal  days.  When 
Christianity  had  been  introduced  into  the  island  and 
when  the  people  had  become  semi-civilized,  there  were 
of  course  many  who  remembered  the  former  days  of 
cruelty  and  terror.  Once  when  the  children  of  the 
different  Sunday  Schools  were  gathered  together  for 
their  annual  treat,  an  old  man  who  had  in  former  years 


76  The  Gem  of  the  Pacific 

been  a  warrior  and  a  cannibal,  sang1  one  of  the  old 
invocations  to  the  great  idol  Tangaroa,  the  chief  idol 
of  the  Rarotongans.  He  then  went  on  to  say  '  You 
have  often  been  told  of  the  dark  deeds  practised  in  this 
land  before  the  love  of  God  reached  us.  Before  the  word 
of  God  shone  upon  us  we  were  at  war  with  the  people  of 
the  other  side  of  the  island.  There  was  no  safety  at  that 
time.  If  men  or  women  or  children  left  home  in  the 
morning,  perhaps  they  would  be  killed  before  night. 
During  this  war  a  father  and  mother  left  their  house  on 
yonder  mountain  to  fish  in  the  sea  towards  Avarua.  They 
had  a  little  child  whom  they  took  with  them,  and,  being1 
weary,  they  sat  under  a  tree  to  rest.  While  there  they 
were  surprised  by  the  sudden  approach  of  two  men  from 
the  enemy's  station.  They  put  the  child  up  in  the  tree, 
and  hid  themselves  in  the  bush.  Alas!  the  child  was 
seen  by  the  two  men.  They  took  it,  and  with  wild 
shouting,  dashed  it  to  death  on  a  heap  of  stones.  But 
this  did  not  satisfy  them ;  they  took  up  the  stones  and 
crushed  its  body  to  atoms.  My  heart  weeps  for  that 
child.  Had  the  word  of  God  come  in  his  time,  he  would 
have  lived,  and  perhaps  would  now  have  been  in  our 
midst.' 

The  story  of  how  Christianity  came  to  the  island  of 
Rarotonga  is  famous  and  inspiring.  In  the  early  part 
of  the  last  century,  the  island  of  Rarotonga  had  been 
discovered  and  visited  by  an  English  ship  whose  captain 
and  crew  lived  on  shore  there  for  some  months.  But 
they  never  reported  their  discovery,  because  they  were 
guilty  of  such  crimes  that  at  last  the  islanders  rose  against 
them,  and  drove  them  away  from  the  beach. 

The  rediscovery  of  Rarotonga  was  due  to  the  great 
pioneer  missionary,  John  Williams,  the  true  predecessor 
of  James  Chalmers.  In  1822  he  visited  the  Hervey  Group 


Williams  rediscovers  Rarotonga          77 

islands,  and  while  off  the  island  of  Atiu  was  informed  by 
the  chief  that  a  long  way  off  in  the  direction  south- 
west by  west  the  island  of  Rarotonga  would  be  found. 
John  Williams  determined  to  go  in  search  of  the  island. 
Contrary  winds  baffled  the  voyagers.  Their  provisions 
were  nearly  consumed,  and  their  patience  exhausted, 
when  early  one  morning  the  captain  of  the  ship  came 
to  John  Williams  and  said, '  We  must  give  up  this  search, 
or  we  shall  all  be  starved.'  It  was  agreed  to  continue 
the  search  until  eight  o'clock  and  if  no  land  was  sighted 
by  that  time,  the  ship  was  to  return. 

John  Williams  tells  us,  'this  was  an  hour  of  great 
anxiety.  I  had  sent  a  native  to  the  top  of  the  mast  four 
times.  He  went  up  a  fifth  time,  and  when  the  clock 
stood  at  half- past  seven  and  we  were  within  half  an  hour 
of  giving  up  search,  the  clouds  which  had  hitherto  hidden 
the  towering  heights  of  Rarotonga  from  us  were  chased 
away  by  the  heat  of  the  ascending  sun,  and  our  anxieties 
were  all  forgotten  in  the  shout  of  land,  land,  that  came 
from  the  mast-head.'  This  naturally  changed  the  feeling 
at  once  of  every  one  on  board.  Faces  brightened  and 
new  interest  was  aroused,  and  all  were  grateful  to  Him 
Who  had  led  them  by  the  right  way. 

On  board  the  ship  were  a  little  party  of  Rarotongan 
natives  who  had  been  living  on  the  island  of  Aitutaki. 
John  Williams  recognized  how  valuable  these  natives 
would  be  should  he  succeed  in  finding  Rarotonga,  and 
so  he  had  brought  them  with  him.  When  the  visitors 
reached  the  island  the  leading  chief,  Makea  by  name, 
came  to  see  John  Williams.  He  was  rejoiced  to  find 
that  among  the  little  band  whom  the  stranger  had 
brought  back  there  was  his  own  cousin.  An  active, 
earnest  young  native  teacher,  Papeiha  by  name,  and 
two  other  teachers  with  their  wives  were  landed  in  the 


78  The  Gem  of  the  Pacific 

hope  that  they  would  be  able  to  make  a  settlement  on 
the  island.  But  the  next  morning  they  came  back  to  the 
ship  in  a  sad  plight.  A  chief  had  come  and  had  demanded 
some  of  them  as  his  prisoners,  and  it  was  only  by  the 
most  strenuous  efforts  on  the  part  of  Makea's  cousin, 
the  princess  whose  name  was  Tapaeru,  that  they  had 
been  preserved  from  outrage. 

It  looked  at  first  as  though  John  Williams  would  have 
to  give  up  all  hope  of  leaving  a  teacher  on  the  island, 
but  the  faith  of  Papeiha  rose  to  the  height  of  a  great 
action.  At  his  own  request  he  was  left  alone,  the  only 
request  being  that  a  friend  whom  he  named  should  be 
sent  to  help  him  as  soon  as  possible.  He  landed,  carrying 
with  him  his  clothes,  his  native  testament,  and  a  little 
bundle  of  books  which  he  hoped  to  find  useful  in  teach- 
ing the  natives  to  read.  He  took  no  other  property 
with  him  because  he  knew  that  if  he  did  he  would  be 
instantly  robbed.  He  was  not  entirely  without  friends, 
since  the  two  men  and  the  four  women  who  had  been 
brought  back  from  Aitutaki  had  become  Christians,  and 
all  of  these  promised  to  help  him.  The  friend  he  had 
asked  for  was  sent  to  him.  They  lived  and  worked  on 
the  island  for  twelve  months,  and  at  the  end  of  that  time 
through  their  labours  and  life  of  prayer  the  whole  of  the 
island  was  led  to  renounce  idolatry.  When  John  Williams 
a  year  or  two  later  revisited  the  island  he  was  rejoiced 
to  find  that  the  savages,  who,  when  he  had  last  seen 
them,  appeared  to  be  the  most  ferocious  that  he  had  ever 
met,  were  now  changed,  and  becomingly  clothed,  and  in 
their  right  minds. 

It  was  to  this  island — so  lovely  in  itself,  so  terrible  in 
its  memories,  so  romantic  in  its  rapid  conversion  to 
Christianity —that  Chalmers  and  his  wife  had  been  sent 
by  the  Directors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society  to 


Chalmers's  Disappointment  79 

carry  on  Christian  work.  It  was  not  at  all  the  place  nor 
the  work  that  he  himself  would  have  chosen.  The  early 
missionaries,  Charles  Pitman  and  Aaron  Buzacott,  built 
wisely  and  well  upon  the  foundation  laid  by  the  heroic 
Papeiha  and  the  great  John  Williams.  The  wild  warlike 
race  of  savages  had  been  transformed  into  a  half-civilized 
law-abiding-  people.  Long  before  the  eye  of  Chalmers 
looked  upon  the  mountains  and  valleys,  lagoons  and 
reefs  of  Rarotonga,  the  old  heathenism  had  passed  away. 
Many  of  the  islanders  had  been  converted,  and  had 
become  good  Christian  people ;  but  numbers  of  them 
were  Christians  only  in  name,  and  needed  still  to  be 
helped  and  taught  and  guided. 

As  soon  as  Chalmers  himself  realized  the  conditions 
of  life  on  the  island  he  began  to  look  out  beyond 
it.  The  experience  of  John  Williams  at  Raiatea  was 
repeated  by  Chalmers.  John  Williams  had  written  in 
the  year  1817,  in  a  letter  to  the  Directors  of  the  Society, 
a  sentence  which  afterwards  became  famous.  'I  can 
never  consent  to  be  confined  within  the  limits  of  a  single 
reef.'  He  looked  out,  and  saw  beyond  many  islands, 
the  inhabitants  of  which  were  living  in  the  darkest  and 
most  cruel  savagery.  The  great  heart  of  John  Williams 
yearned  over  those  savages,  and  he  was  soon  helped  by 
God  to  carry  the  Gospel  to  many  of  them. 

Similar  feelings  ruled  in  the  heart  of  James  Chalmers. 
1  For  years,'  he  writes, '  I  had  longed  to  get  amongst 
real  heathen  and  savages,  and  I  was  disappointed  when 
we  landed  on  Rarotonga,  and  found  them  so  much 
civilized  and  Christianized.  I  wrote  to  the  Directors 
stating  my  disappointment,  and  begged  them  to  appoint 
us  to  Espiritu  Santo  in  the  New  Hebrides.  At  the 
District  Committee  Meeting,  held  very  shortly  after  we 
landed,  the  first  I  ever  attended,  I  stated  my  feelings  to 


8o  The  Gem  of  the  Pacific 

the  brethren,  and  suggested  that  Mr.  Green,  formerly  of 
Tahiti,  and  at  that  time  on  Tahaa,  should  be  appointed 
to  Rarotonga.  A  minute  to  that  effect  was  actually 
passed,  but  nothing  came  of  it,  and  we  lived  on  Rarotonga 
for  ten  years.  Those  years  were  full  of  happiness,  of 
life,  and  of  work.' 

Though  not  permitted  to  do  the  work  upon  which  his 
heart  was  set,  Chalmers,  like  all  strong,  wise  and  good 
men,  set  himself  resolutely  to  do  the  work  close  at  hand. 
He  took  classes  in  the  training  institution.  He  preached 
on  the  Sundays  and  often  during  the  week.  He  visited 
the  different  villages  on  the  island.  He  found  that  in 
Rarotonga  there  were  strong  and  fierce  temptations 
that  assailed  the  hearts  of  men. 

'  In  that  Paradise  of  the  Pacific,'  he  wrote,  *  there  was 
one  fearful  curse,  strong  drink,  and  that  we  tried  to 
combat.  I  turned  policeman,  and  used  to  find  out  where 
the  meetings  for  drink  were  held.  My  experience  is  that 
native  chiefs  and  policemen  are  not  fit  in  themselves  to 
carry  out  laws.  They  put  on  a  spurt  for  a  fortnight, 
and  then  things  drift  back,  and  are  left  to  become  worse 
than  before.  During  the  chief  Makea  Abela's  time,  we 
succeeded  in  putting  it  down  to  a  considerable  extent  ; 
but  he  was  a  great  hindrance,  being  himself  much 
addicted  to  drink,  both  foreign  and  native.1 

Chalmers  found  living  upon  Rarotonga  in  the  year 
1867  some  who  had  lived  in  the  old  time  of  savagery 
and  cruelty.  Manarangi,  who  had  been  chief  of  the  island 
in  the  days  of  heathenism,  was  still  alive.  Chalmers 
tells  an  incident  that  illustrated  the  sacred  character 
attributed  by  the  natives  to  their  chiefs.  He  says : — 

*  I  remember  once  getting  some  of  the  inferior  chiefs 
togedier  and  going  on  deputation  to  Makea  and  Mana- 
rangi, who  was  chief  justice  and  had  lapsed  from  church 


Snatched  from  the  Jaws  of  Death        81 

membership  and  from  his  social  position  through  drink. 
They  both  received  us  well,  and  listened  to  all  we  had 
to  say.  One  of  the  lesser  chiefs  spoke  very  seriously  to 
Makea,  and  Manarangi  pulled  him  up  by  asking,  in  a  bit 
of  song,  "Whence  is  Makea  ?  "  and  the  old  native  replied 
in  song,  "  From  heaven  he  came,"  and  then  Manarangi 
wound  up  with,  "  Who  then  can  speak  ? "  and  we 
returned,  forced  to  remember  that  Makea  in  native 
opinion  was  beyond  and  above  all  law  and  all  human 
beings.  In  the  light  of  an  incident  like  this  we  can 
understand  how  and  why  in  heathen  times  any  one  who 
crossed  even  his  shadow  was  instantly  clubbed  to  death.' 
Chalmers  himself  told  the  writer  of  this  book  an 
incident  which  illustrates  at  once  his  own  character,  and 
the  risks  that  a  man  bold  and  courageous  may  run 
through  ignorance  of  locality.  A  few  days  after  he 
landed  on  the  island  he  was  being  rowed  across  the 
lagoon  between  the  reef  and  the  beach  of  Rarotonga. 
The  rowers  consisted  of  stalwart  Rarotongans.  When 
the  boat  neared  the  reef  Chalmers  stood  up  on  the  bow, 
and  as  the  keel  was  about  to  touch  he  jumped  forward 
upon  the  reef,  which  was  slightly  covered  with  water. 
His  foot  slipped  and  he  fell  forward  over  the  outer  edge 
of  the  reef.  Fortunately  one  of  the  natives,  a  stalwart 
active  man  in  the  prime  of  life,  had  heard  the  sound  of 
his  foot  on  the  coral,  and  realized  instantly  what  had 
happened.  He  sprang  forward  and  was  able  to  seize 
Chalmers  by  the  hair  just  as  he  was  being  swept  under 
the  reef  by  the  wave.  His  muscular  strength  was  such 
that  he  was  able  to  drag  him  back  out  of  the  surf  and 
land  him  upon  the  reef.  Had  it  not  been  for  the  quick- 
ness of  the  native,  Chalmers's  life  would  have  ended  then 
and  there,  because  even  the  strongest  native  swimmers, 
if  they  are  once  swept  by  the  surf  over  the  outward 

F 


82  The  Gem  of  the  Pacific 

edge  of  the  reef,  are  powerless  to  save  themselves  from 
death  either  by  being  dashed  against  the  coral  or  by 
being  sucked  under  by  the  current. 

An  incident  that  illustrates  the  great  risk  that  Chal- 
mers ran  on  this  occasion  is  recorded  by  his  old  friend 
Dr.  Wyatt  Gill.  '  Moanakino  and  two  companions, 
natives  of  the  island  Mangaia,  went  fishing  on  the  coral 
reef.  It  was  a  lovely  day.  They  had  been  fishing  some 
time  with  good  success,  and  were  just  saying  to  each 
other  that  they  would  return  home,  when  two  of  their 
number  unfortunately  found  that  their  fish-hooks  were 
caught  in  the  coral  in  rather  deep  water.  In  those  days 
the  natives  set  great  value  on  their  fish-hooks.  As  the 
sea  was  tolerably  smooth  they  dived  for  them,  the  usual 
practice  of  fishermen  under  such  circumstances.  But, 
alas!  they  had  scarcely  dived  into  the  sea  when  suddenly  a 
breeze  sprung  up  and  immediately  the  sea  became  rough. 
They  tried  to  return  to  the  reef,  but  they  were  con- 
tinually baffled  in  their  attempts  by  the  surf,  which  by 
this  time  was  running  high  and  dashing  with  great  force 
against  the  sharp  shelving  coral.  Their  friend  ashore 
on  the  reef  could  do  but  little  for  them.  He  held 
out  his  long  fishing-rod,  a  bamboo  cane,  for  them  to 
catch  hold  of;  but,  alas!  it  was  too  short.  There  was 
no  canoe  near,  but  he  immediately  ran  off  for  one.  An 
hour  elapsed  ere  the  canoe  arrived.  In  the  meantime 
one  of  the  poor  fellows  in  the  ocean  complained  that  he 
was  getting  weak  and  very  cold.  His  friend  tried  to 
hold  him  up  by  his  arm.  After  a  time  poor  Moanakino, 
fearing  his  friend's  strength  might  also  fail,  said,  "  Let  us 
pray  together  to  God  for  help  ;  but  if  He  should  see  fit 
to  take  us  to  Himself,  we  will  say,  Thy  will  be  done." 
When  the  prayer  was  concluded,  Moanakino  said,  u  I 
must  die.  I  have  no  sensation  in  any  of  my  limbs. 


A  Terrible  Death  83 

Now  leave  your  hold  of  me,  for  fear  you  also  should 
sink.  Farewell,  I  am  going  to  Jesus  and  to  heaven." 
His  friend  continued  holding  on  to  his  hair  as  long  as 
he  could,  and  for  some  time  after  he  was  dead.  The 
body  at  length  sank  to  the  coral  bottom.  When  the 
canoe  arrived  several  men  dived  for  Moanakino's  body, 
which  they  obtained  with  great  difficulty.  I  tried  every 
means  I  could  think  of  to  restore  animation,  but  to  no 
purpose.1 

When  Chalmers  had  settled  down  to  steady  work  he 
found  that  the  worst  enemy  he  had  to  fight  on  Rarotonga 
was  strong  drink,  and  the  ravages  which  indulgence  in 
it  was  working  in  the  lives  of  many  of  the  natives. 
How  best  to  fight  this  evil  constantly  occupied  his 
thoughts  and  the  strength  of  the  man  came  out  in  his 
readiness  to  use  any  methods  that  would  give  him 
power  in  fighting  this  great  curse.  He  has  himself 
described  for  us  in  his  own  way  the  method  that  he 
found  most  effective  : — 

'  About  two  years  ago  there  was  started  by  the  beer- 
drinkers  at  this  settlement  a  volunteer  corps.  They 
were  drilled  by  a  man  who  had  been  in  Tahiti  for  some 
time.  They  had  been  practising  drill  some  time  before 
I  knew  anything  of  it.  They  were  recognized  by  the 
chiefs,  and  the  majority  were  men  who  for  many  years 
had  never  attended  any  service  of  any  kind.  I  knew 
them  only  by  seeing  them  in  their  sacred  grove  at  night, 
around  orange-beer  barrels  and  a  great  fire,  naked  and 
fierce.  Sabbath  and  week-day  were  both  alike  to  them. 
They  were  unknown  to  the  missionaries.  Well,  these 
men  met  for  drill,  and  I  felt  that  here  was  a  new  thing 
growing  up  amongst  us,  which,  if  seized  and  guided, 
might  be  turned  to  good  account.  If  it  were  left  alone, 
or  if  any  attempt  were  made  to  put  an  end  to  it,  evil 

F  2 


84  The  Gem  of  the  Pacific 

would  result.  I  had  no  power  to  stop  it,  even  had 
I  desired  to  do  so,  which  certainly  I  did  not. 

'Weeks  passed,  and  at  length  I  saw  these  men  and 
said  to  them, "  You  meet  for  drill,  why  do  you  not  come 
to  church  on  the  Sabbath  instead  of  living  even  worse 
lives  than  your  fathers  when  in  heathenism  ?  If  you 
remain  volunteers  you  must  come  to  church."  I  told 
them  that  I  did  not  wish  them  to  give  up  drilling.  And 
I  did  so  because  I  felt  that  I  had  a  better  chance  of 
speaking  to  them  when  they  were  sober  and  at  drill. 
The  following  Sabbath  a  few  came  to  the  service,  but 
not  all.  I  addressed  them  as  young  men  belonging  to 
a  volunteer  corps  of  their  own  formation,  and  I  pressed 
them  to  make  Christ  their  portion,  their  captain,  and 
to  believe  on  Him  as  their  Saviour. 

'The  idea  took;  they  were  now  volunteers,  and  of 
some  account,  and  soon  all  began  to  attend  church 
regularly.  I  then  asked  them  to  meet  separately  at 
other  times  for  instruction  and  prayer,  and  this  they 
did.  Drinking  diminished,  and  the  drilling  became 
very  popular.  I  formed  them  into  classes  for  reading, 
writing,  and  arithmetic.  On  Sabbaths  they  met  by 
themselves  under  the  superintendence  of  a  teacher, 
after  the  conclusion  of  the  forenoon  service,  and  went 
over  the  sermon  which  had  just  been  preached,  sang 
a  hymn  and  engaged  in  prayer.  I  held  a  Bible  class 
with  them  every  Sabbath  evening,  and  on  Thursday 
morning  taught  them  English.  They  all  began  planting 
their  lands  and  doing  everything  possible  to  get  new 
clothes  to  attend  drill,  meetings,  and  church.  They 
became  interested  in  the  services,  and  I  kept  on  en- 
couraging volunteering,  as  I  felt  good  was  being  done. 
The  beer-drinking  diminished,  and  we  had  full  instead 
of  empty  seats  in  the  gallery. 


Chalmers  eager  for  Hard  Work         85 

'When  it  was  necessary  to  repair  the  church  these 
young  men  cut  all  the  coral  required  for  the  platform 
and  the  staircase.  They  became  thoroughly  concerned 
about  all  that  belonged  to  the  Church,  and  many  of 
them  are  now  much  interested  in  the  Great  Head  of  the 
Church.  God  has  answered  prayer,  and  the  majority, 
if  they  have  not  found  Christ  precious,  feel  their  need, 
I  trust,  and  will  be  found  of  Him.  But  for  the  volunteer- 
ing, begun,  as  described  by  themselves,  they  might  still 
be  living  unknown  in  the  bush  in  wickedness.  I  could 
not  frown  upon  them.  I  thought  it  a  good  opportunity 
to  be  of  help  to  them.' 

From  the  early  days  of  his  settlement  on  Rarotonga 
Chalmers  made  no  secret  of  his  desire  to  be  chosen  as 
a  missionary  to  the  fierce  and  barbarous  heathen,  of 
whom  there  were  still  so  many  who  had  never  yet  had 
an  opportunity  of  hearing  the  Gospel,  and  to  whom 
not  even  a  native  evangelist  or  teacher  had  been  sent. 
Like  Livingstone  he  felt  that  the  islands  and  tribes 
which  had  been  long  evangelized  might  safely  be  left  to 
native  pastors  and  teachers,  with  only  slight  European 
supervision.  For  this  work,  and  for  the  duty  of  training 
native  teachers,  he  felt  that  there  were  many  better 
qualified  than  himself,  who  would  feel  these  quieter  and 
safer  duties  less  irksome  than  he  did.  He  was  dominated 
by  that  energy  of  a  noble  restlessness  which  was  ever 
urging  him  onwards  towards  '  the  regions  beyond.'  John 
Williams,  in  an  earlier  generation,  had  had  to  overcome 
the  opposition  of  colleagues  and  the  objections  of  home 
authorities ;  and  Chalmers  now  had  to  convince  similar 
gainsayers,  although  he  was  not  without  encouragement 
both  at  home  and  in  the  field.  But  God  had  a  noble 
work  in  store  for  His  wholehearted  and  devoted  servant, 
and  step  by  step  the  way  was  made  plain  for  the  young 


86  The  Gem  of  the  Pacific 

missionary  that  led  from  the  quiet  round  of  daily  tasks 
in  Rarotonga  to  those  thrilling  years  in  New  Guinea,  so 
full  of  adventure,  of  peril,  of  hairbreadth  escapes,  of 
successful  presentation  of  the  glad  tidings  to  multitudes 
who  had  never  before  heard  the  name  of  Jesus,  or 
realized  the  meaning1  of  such  graces  as  love  and  peace 
and  pardon  and  light. 

It  is  not  strange  to  find  that  a  man  who  could  throw 
himself  into  his  work  with  such  energy  and  whole  - 
heartedness  soon  began  to  gain  power  with  the  people. 
Even  the  drunkards  on  Rarotonga,  he  wrote,  'rather 
liked  the  missionary  and  are  very  ready  to  help  him  in 
work.  I  have  frequently  been  in  the  midst  of  the  large 
drinking-meetings  and  found  natives  in  all  stages  of 
drunkenness  and  fighting,  and  yet  I  always  felt  quite  safe, 
and  I  have  never  met  with  the  least  insult  or  abuse  from 
any  Rarotongan.  I  made  it  a  rule  that,  as  I  am  neither 
policeman  nor  judge,  those  I  find  drinking  are  not  to 
be  fined;  the  chiefs  agree  with  me  in  this.'  This 
passage  is  most  characteristic  of  the  man  and  so  also  is 
the  following: — 

'All  work  and  no  play,'  he  wrote  at  another  time, 
'  is  just  as  irksome  for  missionaries,  I  mean  those  of  the 
Rarotongan  stamp,  as  for  boys.  I  have  been  on  every 
mountain-top  in  Rarotonga,  and  there  are  few  valleys 
I  have  not  explored.  I  find  a  mountain  trip  excellent 
medicine,  and  so,  when  out  of  sorts,  and  not  quite  up  to 
the  mark  for  Jeremiah  or  Ezekiel,  the  Acts  of  the 
Apostles  or  Ephesians,  the  history  of  the  Jews  from 
Malachi  to  Christ,  or  my  condensed  History,  ancient 
and  modern,  I  throw  down  the  pen  and  away  I  go.' 

During  the  ten  years  that  Chalmers  spent  on 
Rarotonga,  God  was  preparing  him  by  ways  that  he 
knew  not  for  the  great  work  of  his  life :  the  extension 


Teava,  the  Rarotongan  87 

of  the  Gospel  in  New  Guinea.  The  quiet  years  he 
spent  in  teaching  natives  who  were  very  slow  to  learn, 
in  taking1  services  that  he  sometimes  felt  irksome,  in 
going  through  a  quiet  round  of  daily  duties  when  he 
would  have  liked  to  have  been  up  and  away  scouring 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  strengthened  within  him  his  good 
qualities  and  gave  him  that  self-discipline  without  which 
no  good  work  can  be  done  in  the  world.  He  came  to 
know  the  Rarotongans  intimately.  He  could  speak 
their  language  as  well  as  a  native.  Many  of  them 
became  his  closest  personal  friends,  and  some  of  the 
latter  were  men  who  in  ancient  days  had  been  amongst 
the  most  degraded  and  the  most  fierce  on  the  island. 

One  of  these,  Teava  by  name,  had  been  converted  by 
Papeiha  himself,  and  as  he  came  to  know  in  his  own 
heart  the  light  and  the  joy  of  the  Truth  of  the  Gospel, 
the  desire  grew  within  him  to  carry  the  glad  tidings  to 
savage  tribes  still  in  darkness.  He  himself  became 
a  missionary  and  was  the  first  Christian  Evangelist  sent 
to  the  Samoan  group  of  islands.  There  he  spent 
more  than  twenty  years  with  his  life  in  his  hand.  He 
used  to  travel  about  in  an  open  canoe  from  island  to 
island  doing  all  that  he  could  to  remove  the  prejudices 
of  the  people,  and  to  prepare  the  way  for  the  Christian 
missionaries  to  live  among  them,  and  to  understand  the 
teaching  that  they  brought. 

In  later  life  he  returned  to  Rarotonga,  and  there 
Chalmers  came  to  know  him  and  to  love  him.  '  During 
the  last  nine  years,'  he  wrote  in  1876,  '  I  have  seen  much 
of  Teava,  and  learned  to  admire  the  man.  He  lived 
much  in  prayer,  and  in  the  study  of  God's  Word.  At 
prayer-meetings  he  was  always  first  there,  coming  at 
least  half  an  hour  before  any  one  else,  so  that  he  might 
have  time  to  pray  and  receive  a  blessing  for  himself,  and 


88  The  Gem  of  the  Pacific 

others  before  the  service  began.  He  was  never  absent 
from  the  deacons'  Saturday  afternoon  prayer-meeting-. 
He  was  always  ready  to  speak  to  the  Church,  ever 
pointing  the  members  to  Christ,  and  warning  them 
against  the  many  evils  to  which  they  are  exposed. 
From  his  long,  true  and  earnest  life  he  was  able  to  speak 
to  them  as  only  very  few  could.  He  spoke  very  plainly, 
not  at  all  mincing  matters,  when  occasion  required. 
He  had  great  regard  for  the  Pilgrim's  Progress,  and  his 
delight  was  to  have  me  sit  with  him  and  go  over  a  part 
of  Christian's  journey  to  Mount  Zion,  the  Heavenly 
Jerusalem. 

'  For  five  weeks  before  his  death  he  was  unable  to 
attend  the  services  in  church,  but  he  welcomed  any  who 
could  spend  a  short  time  with  him  in  prayer  in  his  own 
house.  He  told  me  some  days  before  he  died  that  he 
was  just  waiting  on ;  he  knew  the  Master  had  sent  for 
him.  He  said  he  was  done  with  all  below,  and  looked 
only  for  Christ's  presence.  Not  in  what  he  had  done 
did  he  trust,  but  in  the  Cross  of  Christ  alone.  One  day 
he  asked  for  a  little  food.  It  was  given  him,  but  he 
could  not  eat  it;  he  got  up  and  walked  a  very  short 
distance  in  the  house,  when  he  said,  "I  think  the 
messenger  has  come  to  fetch  me  ;  I  shall  die."  His  wife 
and  another  woman  laid  him  down  on  his  mat,  when  he 
quietly  passed  away.  What  a  change !  In  his  youth  he 
was  a  heathen,  had  fought  with,  and  had  captured  men, 
and  cooked  and  helped  to  eat  them.  In  his  manhood 
he  was  converted  to  Christ,  became  a  true  soldier  of  the 
Cross,  and  led  many  to  the  Saviour.  In  his  death  he 
trusted  alone  to  Christ,  conquered  death  in  Christ  and 
went  up  to  hear  Him  say,  "Well  done,  good  and  faithful 
servant,  enter  thou  into  the  joy  of  thy  Lord."  ' 

In  labours  of  the  kind  that  we  have  described,  and 


Set  free  for  New  Service  89 

among  people  like  these,  Chalmers  worked  until  the 
year  1877.  For  some  time  prior  to  that  date  the 
Directors  had  come  to  the  conviction  that  New  Guinea 
was  the  right  sphere  for  the  energies  and  the  powers 
which  Chalmers  possessed.  But  it  was  not  until  May, 
1877,  that  they  were  set  free,  and  then  to  Chalmers  and 
his  wife  there  came  the  grief  of  parting  from  many  with 
whom  they  had  worked  side  by  side  in  happy  fellowship, 
and  to  part  irom  whom  was  a  grief  to  their  loving 
hearts. 


CHAPTER    VI 

OFF  TO  NEW  GUINEA 

IN  1872  five  of  the  men  Taraate  had  trained,  with 
their  wives,  were  sent  to  take  part  in  the  attempt  to 
establish  a  mission  on  the  mainland  of  New  Guinea. 
In  Samoa  they  were  joined  by  Piri  and  his  wife,  making 
up  the  total  to  six  couples.  Mr.  Wyatt  Gill  was  then 
going1  home  on  furlough,  and  these  native  missionaries 
were  placed  in  his  charge  by  the  Committee.  Their 
names  were :  Ruatoka,  Anederea,  Adamu,  Henere,  Rau 
and  Piri. 

*  At  Somerset  Gill  was  joined  by  Mr.  A.  W.  Murray, 
and  together  they  placed  the  above  in  Redscar  Bay  at 
Manumanu.     Years  after,  when  I  called  at  Manumanu, 
the  old  chief  Naime  came  to  me,  pretending  to  be  very 
cold,  and  sitting  down,  I  asked  him  if  he  were  ill,  and 
he  answered,  "  Yes,  very.     Tamate,  listen !     What  have 
I  done  that  I  am  thus  left  out  in  the  cold  whilst  others 
are  happy  ?     Why  have  I  no  teacher  ?     Was  not  I  the 
first  to  receive  teachers,  and  did  I  not  treat  them  kindly  ? 
When  many  wished  to  murder  them,  did  I  not  prevent 
it  ?    And  now  you  leave  me  alone.     Tamate,  you  must 
give  me  a  teacher." 

*  We  had  a  grand  year  of  refreshing  before  that  first 
contingent  left  Rarotonga.     Many  meetings  for  prayer 
were  held,  and  the  Church,  I  believe,  had  never  had  such 
a  time  of  refreshing  since  Buzacott's  time.     Many  were 


The  Island  of  New  Guinea  91 

led  to  give  their  lives  to  Christ  and  joined  the  Church. 
What  a  day  the  Sunday  before  the  teachers  left  us 
was !  The  excitement  was  intense  ;  old  men  with  tears 
streaming  down  their  faces  begged  to  be  also  sent, 
alleging  that  their  knowledge  of  savage  life  and  heathen 
customs  well  fitted  them  for  the  work.  Never  before 
or  since  have  I  experienced  such  emotions,  and  I  felt 
that  I  must  go  too.' 

Chalmers  did  go,  but  not  until  four  years  later.  In 
1876  he  left  the  lovely  Pacific  island  to  embark  on 
wholly  unknown  but  certainly  dangerous  and  toilsome 
experiences  in  New  Guinea.  But  no  heart  was  ever 
lighter  or  happier  than  Tamate's  at  this  time.  He 
loved,  as  we  have  seen,  his  friends  in  Rarotonga,  he 
grieved  to  say  good-bye ;  but,  like  St.  Paul,  his  eye 
was  ever  upon  the  '  regions  beyond,'  yet  living  in  the 
power  of  the  wicked  one,  and  he  was  eager  to  be  up 
and  off  there  to  fight  the  battle  against  ignorance, 
cruelty,  superstition,  terror,  and  sin. 

He  left  Rarotonga  in  1877,  and,  after  visiting  his  wife's 
friends  and  relations  in  New  Zealand,  and  old  friends 
in  Australia,  he  reached  New  Guinea  in  the  schooner 
1  Bertha '  in  October  of  that  year. 

New  Guinea  is  the  largest  island  in  the  world.  It 
had  been  known  by  name  for  about  three  centuries, 
but  so  little  was  really  known  about  it,  except  the 
extreme  north-west  end,  that  it  was  practically  an 
unknown  country.  It  was  supposed  to  be  a  country 
flowing  with  milk  and  honey.  Spice  groves  were  said 
to  lade  the  air  with  their  sweet  perfume;  gold  and 
precious  stones  abundant,  while  valuable  woods  were 
so  plentiful  that  although  it  was  extremely  probable 
any  visitor  to  its  shores  might  be  clubbed  to  death  by 
the  savage  natives  his  friends  would  have  the  satisfaction 


92  Off  to  New  Guinea 

of  knowing  that  the  deed  was  done  with  the  best  ebony. 
There  was  good  reason  also  to  believe  that  his  body 
would  furnish  forth  a  cannibal  feast. 

'  Notwithstanding  its  character  for  commercial  wealth, 
although  separated  from  Australia  only  by  Torres 
Straits — and  Australians  are  by  no  means  wanting  in 
love  of  adventure — yet  the  uncertain  navigation  and 
the  ferocious  character  of  its  inhabitants  were  such 
that,  until  it  was  opened  up  by  the  missionaries  of  the 
London  Missionary  Society  in  1872,  the  south-east  part 
of  New  Guinea  was  an  unknown  and  unexplored  country. 
The  island  is  i  ,400  miles  long,  and  about  three  times  as 
large  as  Great  Britain  ;  there  is  in  it  very  great  diversity 
of  climate,  of  products,  and  of  peoples,  and  it  is  always 
important  when  a  statement  in  reference  to  New  Guinea 
is  made,  to  know  to  which  part  of  this  great  island  the 
statement  refers. 

'  Every  village  then  lived  in  suspicion  of  its  neighbours, 
and  at  enmity  with  them,  so  that  they  were  practically 
as  isolated  and  separated  as  if  they  were  living  on  some 
lone  island  in  mid-ocean.  The  natives  of  the  south- 
eastern coast  are  a  light -coloured  race,  belonging  to 
the  Malayo-Polynesian  family,  of  which  the  Maories  of 
New  Zealand,  the  Tahitians,  and  Samoans  are  the  best- 
known  representatives.  Physically  they  are  a  fine  race ; 
but,  whatever  good  looks  they  possess,  they  owe  neither 
to  the  tailor  nor  the  dressmaker.  There  is  the  usual 
profusion  of  barbaric  ornaments  in  the  shape  of  nose- 
sticks,  earrings,  necklaces,  feathers,  tattooing,  and  paint. 

'Some  of  the  natives  live  in  lake  dwellings,  such  as 
those  of  which  relics  are  to  be  found  in  different  parts 
of  Europe.  Some  villages  are  always  surrounded  by 
water,  so  that  the  mission  steamer  can  anchor  in  the 
main  street  with  safety.  The  stone  age  still  prevailed 


The  Savagery  of  New  Guinea          93 

in  1872.  No  implement,  utensil,  or  weapon  could  be 
found  made  of  iron  or  any  metal ;  but  even  at  that  time 
after  visiting  the  canoe -making  yards  at  Hood  Bay,  and 
seeing  the  carving  from  Orangerie  Bay,  the  observer 
had  a  greater  respect  for  the  stone  age  than  before. 
The  fine  houses  testified  to  the  excellence  of  their  tools, 
as  well  as  to  the  industry,  perseverance,  and  skill  of  their 
builders.  Their  houses,  however,  were  empty  of  furni- 
ture. They  dispensed  easily  with  chairs,  and  every 
man  slept  on  a  plank  bed  without  a  pillow. 

'So  primitive  were  their  habits  that  neither  the  use 
of  money  was  known,  nor  its  want  felt.  They  were 
supremely  indifferent  to  the  state  of  the  money  market. 
But  there  was  a  wonderful  absence  of  that  abject  squalor 
and  wretchedness  only  too  familiar  to  dwellers  in  the 
large  towns  and  cities  of  Europe,  America,  and  Australia. 
A  man  without  a  penny  to  his  name,  a  coat  to  his  back, 
or  a  bed  to  lie  on  could  enjoy  life  fairly  well  in  New 
Guinea.  He  had  no  morning  newspaper  to  disturb  his 
peace  of  mind.  He  had  no  pile  of  letters  to  answer,  no 
telegraph  boy  to  alarm  him. 

'But  there  were  dark  features  which  detracted  from  the 
inviting  character  of  this  picture.  There  were  some 
terrible  habits  and  vices.  Cannibalism  in  all  its  hideous- 
ness  flourished  on  many  parts  of  the  coast.  At  Port 
Moresby  cannibalism  was  not  practised,  but  the  sanctity 
of  human  life  was  unknown,  and  every  man  was  a  thief 
and  a  liar.  The  thing  of  which  the  men  were  most 
proud  was  the  tattooing  marks,  which  meant  that  the 
man  who  was  tattooed  had  shed  human  blood.  He  had 
no  right  to  this  distinction  until  he  had  murdered  some 
one.  They  "  gloried  in  their  shame." 

'Woman  was  not  so  degraded  and  down-trodden  as  in 
many  parts  of  the  heathen  world.  They  were  certainly 


94  Off  to  New  Guinea 

the  burden -carriers  of  the  community;  but  that  did 
not  imply  the  degradation  which  it  does  with  us,  and 
they  resented  any  interference  on  the  part  of  the  men 
with  the  fetching-  of  water  and  the  carrying  of  wood, 
as  an  infringement  of  women's  rights.  Domestic  affection 
existed  to  a  degree  which  surprised  the  first  missionaries. 
Parents  cared  for  the  children,  long  after  they  had  grown 
up  to  maturity,  with  great  affection  and  tenderness,  and, 
what  was  more  remarkable,  the  children  cared  for  the 
parents  and  watched  over  them  when  they  had  become 
infirm  or  sick.  The  vice  of  drunkenness  was  gladly 
missed,  for  no  man  drank  anything  stronger  than  water. 
There  was  a  wonderful  absence,  too,  of  open  immorality. 
The  natives  were  industrious.  They  cultivated  the  soil 
with  great  care,  and  the  early  explorers  saw  what  is 
seldom  found  except  in  civilized  life — flowers  cultivated 
in  gardens.  This  alone  spoke  hopefully  for  the  future 
development  of  the  people. 

'  The  only  religious  idea  of  the  New  Guinea  savages 
seems  to  have  been  a  slavish  fear  of  evil  spirits  and 
a  belief  in  the  deathlessness  of  the  soul.  Their  spiritual 
darkness  could  be  felt,  but  could  scarcely  be  described. 
It  was  most  intense  at  the  grave.  The  hope  which 
Christianity  gives  of  reunion  after  the  grave  caught 
their  attention  in  a  way  which  nothing  else  seemed  to 
command.' 

Such  was  the  island,  such  were  the  people  among 
whom  Tamate  was  to  spend  the  next  twenty-five  years 
of  his  life.  The  '  Bertha '  sighted  the  New  Guinea  coast 
off  Yule  Island,  and  Boera  was  the  first  of  its  mission 
stations  that  Chalmers  saw.  The  only  European  mis- 
sionary then  on  the  mainland  of  New  Guinea  was 
Mr.  Lawes,  who  had  been  at  Port  Moresby  since  1872. 
Mr.  Macfarlane,  whose  station  was  at  Murray  Island,  was 


First  Impressions  of  New  Guinea        95 

also  on  board  the  '  Bertha '  with  Mr.  Chalmers.  Tamate 
himself  tells  us  the  story  of  his  first  impressions  of  New 
Guinea  and  its  savage  tribes. 

4  Near  to  the  place  where  we  anchored  was  a  low 
swampy  ground  covered  with  mangrove.  Soon  after 
we  anchored  a  canoe  came  alongside  with  Mr.  Lawes 
and  Piri,  the  Rarotongan  native  teacher  stationed  at 
Boera,  on  board.  Piri  was  a  strong,  hearty  fellow  ;  the 
climate  seemed  to  have  had  little  effect  on  him.  They 
remained  some  time  on  board,  and  then  they  went  ashore 
in  the  vessel's  boat — Piri  taking  the  teachers,  whoever 
wished  to  land  there,  and  their  wives  ashore  with  him. 

'We  arrived  at  Port  Moresby  Oct.  22,  1877.  I 
cannot  say  I  was  much  charmed  with  the  place,  it  had 
such  a  burnt-up,  barren  appearance.  Close  to  the 
village  is  a  mangrove  swamp,  and  the  whole  bay  is 
enclosed  with  high  hills.  At  the  back  of  the  mission 
premises,  and  close  to  them,  is  a  large  swampy  place, 
which  in  wet  weather  is  full  of  water.  There  can  be  no 
doubt  about  Port  Moresby  being  a  very  unhealthy  place. 

*  We  went  ashore  for  breakfast  next  day,  and  in  the 
afternoon  visited  the  school;  about  forty  children  were 
present — an  unusually  large  number.  Many  of  the 
children  knew  the  alphabet,  and  a  few  could  spell  words 
of  two  or  three  letters.  In  walking  through  the  village 
in  the  afternoon  we  saw  the  women  making  large  num- 
bers of  crockery  pots,  preparing  for  the  men's  voyage  to 
the  Gulf,  the  next  season,  when  these  pots  will  be  taken 
west  and  exchanged  for  large  quantities  of  sago. 

'As  it  had  been  decided  that  the  "  Bertha  "  should  not 
leave  for  a  few  days,  Mr.  Macfarlane  and  I  took  a  trip 
inland.  I  was  anxious  to  see  for  myself  if  anything 
could  be  done  for  the  natives  living  in  the  mountains. 

'  Mrs.  Lawes  and  I  left  Port  Moresby  on  Nov.  i,  and 


96  Off  to  New  Guinea 

sailed  down  the  coast  inside  the  reef.  We  arrived  at 
Tupuselei  about  midday.  There  were  two  teachers 
here,  and  Mr.  Lawes  had  decided  to  remove  one.  We 
got  him  on  board,  and  sailed  for  Kaile.  The  houses  of 
Tupuselei  and  Kaile  are  built  upon  piles  standing  in  the 
sea.  The  Astrolabe  Range  is  not  far  from  the  shore, 
along  which  we  sailed  all  day.  This  part  of  the  island 
has  a  fine,  bold  coast- line,  with  many  bays. 

'In  the  early  morning  our  small  vessel,  the  "  Mayri,"  of 
only  seven  tons,  was  crowded  with  natives.  We  left  the 
vessel  about  nine  a.m.  for  a  walk  inland,  accompanied 
by  a  number  of  natives,  who  all  went  to  their  houses  to 
get  their  arms  before  they  would  leave  their  village.  The 
natives  have  no  faith  whatever  in  one  another.  We 
passed  through  a  large  swamp  covered  with  mangroves 
— then  into  a  dense  tropical  bush,  passing  through 
a  large  grove  of  sago-palms  and  large  mango -trees. 
The  mangoes  were  small — about  the  size  of  a  plum— and 
very  sweet. 

4  We  walked  about  seven  miles  through  bush,  and  began 
the  ascent  of  one  of  the  spurs  of  the  Astrolabe  range. 
On  nearing  the  inland  village  for  which  we  were  bound, 
the  natives  became  somewhat  afraid,  and  the  leader 
stopped,  and,  turning  to  Mr.  Lawes,  asked  him  if  he 
would  indeed  not  kill  any  of  the  people.  He  was 
assured  all  was  right,  and  then  he  moved  on  a  few 
paces,  to  stop  again,  and  re-enquire  if  all  was  right. 
When  reassured,  we  all  went  on,  not  a  word  spoken  by 
any  one,  and  so  in  silence  we  entered  the  village.  When 
we  were  observed,  spears  began  rattling  in  the  houses  ; 
but  our  party  shouted,  Maino,  maino  (Peace,  peace), 
Misi  Lao,  Misi  Lao *.  The  women  escaped  through 
the  trap-doors  in  the  floors  of  their  houses,  and  away 

1  The  nearest  approach  native  lips  could  make  to  '  Mr.  Lawes.' 


Natives  of  Eastern  New  Guinea         97 

down  the  side  of  the  hill  into  the  bush.  We  reached  the 
chief's  house,  and  there  remained. 

'  The  people  soon  regained  confidence,  and  came  round 
us,  wondering  greatly  at  the  first  white  men  they  had 
ever  seen  in  their  village.  The  women  returned  from 
their  flight,  and  began  to  cook  food,  which,  when  ready, 
they  brought  to  us,  and  of  which  we  all  heartily  partook. 
We  gave  them  presents,  and  they  would  not  suffer  us 
to  depart  till  they  had  brought  us  a  return  present  of 
uncooked  food.  We  returned  by  a  different  way, 
following  the  bed  of  what  must  be  in  the  rainy  season 
a  large  river. 

'  On  the  following  morning,  Nov.  3,  we  weighed 
anchor  and  set  sail,  passing  Kapakapa,  a  double  village 
in  the  sea.  The  houses  are  large  and  well  built.  There 
are  numerous  villages  on  the  hills  at  the  back  of  it, 
easily  visited.  We  anchored  off  Round  Head. 

4  The  vessel  continued  her  eastward  voyage,  and  Hula, 
Kerepunu,  and  Teste  Island  were  visited  in  turn.  At  the 
latter  place  the  people  were  very  friendly  and  crowded 
round  us.  We  were  led  up  to  a  platform  in  front  of  one 
of  their  large  houses,  and  there  seated  and  regaled  with 
cocoanuts.  The  next  morning  we  were  soon  surrounded 
with  canoes,  and  our  deck  swarmed  with  natives  trading 
curios,  yams,  cocoanuts  and  fish  for  beads  and  hoop-iron. 
Many  were  swearing  friendship,  and  exchanging  names 
with  us,  in  hopes  of  getting  hoop-iron l.  There  is  as 
great  a  demand  for  hoop -iron  here  as  for  tobacco  at 
Port  Moresby.  They  told  us  they  disliked  fighting, 
but  delighted  in  the  dance,  betel-nut,  and  sleep.  The 

1  At  this  time  hoop-iron,  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick, 
and  capable  of  being  used  in  many  ways  by  the  natives,  was  much 
more  precious  to  them  than  gold.  Hoop-iron  and  tobacco  were 
the  money  of  New  Guinea  at  that  period. 

G 


98  Off  to  New  Guinea 

majority  had  jet-black  teeth,  which  they  consider  very 
beautiful,  and  all  had  their  noses  and  ears  pierced,  with 
various  sorts  of  nose  and  ear-rings,  chiefly  made  from 
shell,  inserted.  A  crown  piece  could  easily  be  put  through 
the  lobe  of  their  ears. 

1  We  went  ashore  in  the  afternoon.  The  three  villages 
were  all  close  to  one  another.  Their  houses  were  built 
on  poles,  some  shaped  like  a  canoe  turned  bottom 
upwards,  others  like  one  in  the  water.  The  houses 
were  ornamented  on  the  outside  with  cocoanuts  and 
shells.  The  nabobs  of  the  place  had  on  the  posts  of 
their  houses  skulls,  which  they  said  had  belonged  to  the 
enemies  they  had  killed  and  eaten.  One  skull  was  very 
much  fractured ;  they  told  us  it  was  done  with  a  stone 
axe,  and  showed  us  how  they  used  these  weapons. 

'A  few  days  later  Mr.  Macfarlane  stationed  some 
teachers  near  East  Cape.  After  breakfast,  we  went 
ashore  to  hold  a  service  with  the  teachers.  We 
met  under  a  large  tree  near  their  house.  About  600 
natives  were  about  us,  and  all  round  outside  of  the 
crowd  were  men  armed  with  spears  and  clubs.  Mr.  Mac- 
farlane preached.  When  we  began  to  sing  the  first 
hymn  a  number  of  women  and  children  got  up  and  ran 
into  the  bush.  They  were  frightened  at  the  strange 
sounds  to  them  of  words  being  sung  in  tune.  The 
service  was  short;  at  its  close  we  sat  down  and  sang 
hymns.  This,  as  they  got  used  to  it,  seemed  to  amuse 
them  greatly.  The  painted  men  were  not  pleasant- 
looking  fellows. 

*  Next  morning  we  sailed  through  the  Straits,  and,  on 
coming  out  on  the  opposite  side,  we  were  glad  to  see 
the  "  Bertha  "  beating  outside.  By  noon  we  were  on  board 
the  "  Bertha,"  and  off  for  South  Cape,  the  "  Mayri "  going 
to  Teste  Island  with  a  letter,  telling  the  captain  of  the 


Arrival  at  South  Cape  99 

"  Ellengowan  "  to  follow  us,  and  also  to  see  if  the  teachers 
we  had  already  landed  were  all  right. 

'  By  evening  we  were  well  up  to  South  Cape.  The 
captain  did  not  care  to  get  too  near  the  shore  at  night, 
and  stood  away  in  the  open  sea  till  morning.  About 
ten  next  morning  I  accompanied  the  captain  in  the  boat, 
to  sound  and  look  for  anchorage,  which  we  found  in 
22  fathoms,  near  South-West  Point.  By  half-past  five 
that  evening  we  anchored.  The  excitement  caused  ashore 
by  the  arrival  and  anchoring  of  the  "  Bertha  "  was  great, 
and  before  the  anchor  was  really  down  we  were  sur- 
rounded by  canoes. 

4  The  people  were  small  and  puny,  and  much  darker 
than  the  Eastern  Polynesians.  Canoes  came  off  to 
us  again  very  early  in  the  morning.  About  half- 
past  seven,  when  we  were  ready  to  go  ashore,  there 
arose  great  consternation  amongst  the  natives.  Three 
large  war  canoes,  with  warriors  on  board  blowing  conch- 
shells,  appeared  off  the  mainland,  and  paddled  across  the 
Mayri  Straits.  Soon  a  large  war  canoe  appeared  near 
the  vessel.  A  great  many  small  canoes  from  various 
parts  of  the  mainland  were  ordered  off  by  those  near 
whose  villages  we  were  anchored.  They  had  to  leave. 
On  their  departure  a  great  shout  was  raised  by  the 
victorious  party,  and  in  a  short  time  all  returned  quietly 
to  their  bartering.  It  seemed  that  the  Stacy  Islanders 
wished  to  keep  all  the  bartering  to  themselves.  They 
did  not  wish  the  rest  to  obtain  hoop-iron  or  any  other 
foreign  wealth.  They  were  at  feud  with  one  party  on 
the  mainland,  and  their  late  contests  had  been  victorious, 
for  they  told  us  with  great  exultation  that  they  had  lately 
killed  and  eaten  ten  of  their  enemies  from  the  mainland. 

*  We  went  ashore  near  the  anchorage  on  Nov.  29, 1877. 
I  crossed  the  island  to  the  village,  but  did  not  feel  satisfied 

ca 


loo  Off  to  New  Guinea 

as  to  the  suitable  nature  of  its  position  for  a  station. 
One  of  our  guides  to  the  village  wore,  as  an  armlet, 
the  jawbone  of  a  man  from  the  mainland  whom  he 
had  killed  and  eaten.  Others  strutted  about  with  human 
bones  dangling  from  their  hair,  and  about  their  necks. 
It  was  only  with  the  village  Tepauri  on  the  mainland 
that  they  were  unfriendly. 

'  We  embarked  again  and  sailed  along  the  coast.  On 
turning  a  cape,  we  came  to  a  pretty  village,  on  a  well- 
wooded  point.  The  people  were  friendly,  and  led  us  to 
see  the  water,  of  which  there  is  a  good  supply.  This  at 
once  appeared  to  be  the  spot  for  which  we  had  been  in 
search  as  a  station  where  we  could  begin  work.  We 
could  go  anywhere  from  it,  and  were  surrounded  by 
villages.  The  mainland  was  not  more  than  a  gun-shot 
across.  It  seemed  to  us  that  God  had  led  us  to  the 
right  and  to  a  good  place.  We  made  arrangements  for 
a  house  for  the  teachers ;  then  returned  to  the  vessel.' 


CHAPTER    VII 

ON  THE  BRINK  OF  DEATH 

IN  the  way  and  by  the  steps  graphically  described  in 
the  last  chapter  James  Chalmers  and  his  brave  and 
devoted  wife  had  been  led  by  God  to  the  spot  where 
they  could  begin  the  work  upon  which  their  hearts  had 
been  set  for  long  years.  They  had  obtained  a  foothold 
in  the  midst  of  a  community  of  ferocious  cannibal  savages. 
These  people  had  never  seen  any  one  before  who  had 
shown  the  least  desire  to  help  and  to  benefit  them. 
They  had  no  glimmering  of  an  idea  about  God  and  the 
Gospel  and  the  glad  tidings  of  salvation.  They  had  no 
knowledge  of  civilization,  and  no  desire  to  know  any- 
thing about  it.  Their  main  occupation  was  tribal  war ; 
their  only  industries  were  the  getting  of  food  and  the 
making  of  weapons  wherewith  to  kill  their  neighbours  ; 
their  chief  pleasure  was  a  riotous  carouse,  in  which  they 
gorged  themselves  with  the  roasted  flesh  of  their  dead 
enemies.  The  power  of  the  love  of  Jesus  Christ  in  the 
hearts  that  truly  receive  Him  is  shown  by  the  fact  that 
Chalmers  and  his  wife  rejoiced  to  be  able  to  make  their 
home  amidst  savages  like  these,  because  they  believed 
God  would  help  them  to  bless  and  to  civilize  these  fierce 
and  ignorant  natives. 

We  take  up  the  story  of  the  next  few  weeks  in 
Chalmers's  own  words. 

*  In  the  afternoon,  I  landed  the  teachers,  their  wives, 
and  part  of  their  goods — the  people  helping  to  carry  the 


1O2  On  the  Brink  of  Death 

stuff  to  the  house.  The  house  in  which  the  teachers 
were  to  reside  till  our  own  was  finished  was  the  largest 
in  the  place,  but  they  could  only  get  the  use  of  one  end 
of  it — the  owner,  who  considered  himself  the  chief  man 
of  the  place,  requiring  the  other  end  for  himself  and 
family.  The  partition  between  the  two  ends  was  only 
two  feet  high.  Skulls,  shells,  and  cocoanuts  hung  about 
the  house  ;  the  skulls  were  those  of  the  enemies  whom 
the  chief  and  his  people  had  eaten.  Inside  the  house, 
hung  up  on  the  wall,  was  a  very  large  collection  of  human 
bones,  bones  of  animals  and  of  fish. 

'  I  selected  a  spot  for  my  own  house  on  the  point  of 
land  nearest  the  mainland.  It  was  a  large  sand-hill,  and 
well  wooded  at  the  back.  We  had  a  good  piece  of  land, 
with  bread-fruit  and  other  fruit  trees  on  it,  which  I  hoped 
to  have  cleared  and  planted  with  food,  for  the  benefit  of 
the  teachers  who  might  come  here  from  time  to  time  and 
have  to  wait  awhile  before  going  to  their  stations,  as  well 
as  for  the  teacher  of  the  station. 

'Early  next  morning  there  was  great  excitement 
ashore.  The  large  war  canoe  came  off,  with  drums 
beating  and  men  dancing.  They  came  alongside  the 
"  Bertha,"  and  presented  us  with  a  small  pig  and  food. 
Then  the  men  came  on  board  and  danced  on  the  deck. 
The  captain  gave  them  a  return  present.  Mr.  Macfarlane 
and  I  went  ashore  immediately  after  breakfast,  and  found 
that  the  Rarotongan  teachers  had  been  kindly  treated. 
We  gave  some  natives  a  few  axes,  and  they  at  once  set 
off  to  cut  wood  for  the  house.  Before  we  returned  to 
the  vessel  in  the  evening  two  posts  were  up. 

'As  the  time  for  which  the  "  Bertha  "  had  been  chartered 
was  up,  and  the  season  for  the  trade  winds  was  closing, 
everything  was  done  to  get  on  fast  with  the  house. 
Mr.  Macfarlane  worked  well.  Two  men  from  the 


A  House  adorned  with  Skulls          103 

"  Bertha  "  and  two  from  the  "  Mayri  "joined  with  the  four 
teachers  in  the  work,  and  by  Tuesday  the  framework 
was  nearly  up.  Mr.  Macfarlane  and  I  visited  several 
villages  on  the  mainland.  The  people  appeared  friendly, 
and  got  very  excited  over  the  presents  we  gave  them. 
We  landed  all  our  things  also  on  Tuesday,  and  imme- 
diately after  breakfast  on  Wednesday,  December  5, 1877, 
we  went  ashore  to  reside ;  and  about  ten  a.m.  the  "  Bertha  " 
sailed  away. 

4  We  took  up  our  quarters  in  the  chief's  house.  Hang- 
ing close  by  us  were  human  skulls,  and  all  round  us  the 
bones  of  pigs  and  cassowaries  and  fishes.  The  division 
between  our  small  apartment  and  the  chiefs  was  about 
two  feet  high,  and  in  the  early  morning,  about  three 
o'clock,  he  and  others  stepped  over  it,  and  across  our 
mattress.  The  whole  surroundings  were  peculiar,  and  it 
was  a  weird  sight  to  look  out  in  the  moonlight  between 
these  human  skulls.  A  very  fine  tamano  tree  grew  close 
by,  and  had  been  growing  there  for  ages,  and  one  could 
only  wonder  what  scenes  had  been  enacted  under  its 
shade. 

*  Sabbath  came,  and  we  held  a  service  in  the  Raroton- 
gan  language,  and  sang  many  hymns  sitting  under  the 
shade  of  the  old  tamano  tree.  We  were  all  in  excellent 
health,  and  very  fit  for  work.  The  "  Mayri "  was  anchored 
opposite  and  close  by  the  shore.  We  worked  on  steadily, 
trying  to  get  my  house  finished.  We  were  anxious  not 
to  excite  the  native  cupidity  by  a  display  of  tools,  toma- 
hawks, and  cloth,  and  so  landed  from  the  "  Mayri  "  only 
such  things  as  were  absolutely  necessary. 

'  We  had  much  difficulty  in  getting  a  sufficient  supply 
of  plaited  cocoanut  leaves  for  the  walls  and  roof  of  our 
house.  By  Dec.  12  we  had  the  walls  and  roof  of  the 
house  finished,  and  then  all  our  party  moved  into  it. 


104  On  the  Brink  of  Death 

We  had  a  curtain  of  unbleached  calico  put  up  between 
the  teachers'  end  and  ours,  and  curtains  for  doors  and 
windows.  We  were  glad  to  get  into  the  house  even 
while  it  was  in  that  unfinished  state,  for  the  weather  was 
breaking,  and  we  felt  anxious  about  the  health  of  the 
teachers  while  they  had  to  sleep  in  the  tent  when  it 
rained.  And  we  had  no  privacy  at  all  where  we  were, 
and  were  tired  of  squatting  on  the  ground.  For  we 
could  not  get  a  chair  into  our  part  of  the  house ;  indeed, 
the  flooring  was  of  such  a  construction  that  the  legs  of 
a  chair  or  table  would  have  soon  gone  through  it. 

'  On  Dec.  13  we  were  busy  getting  the  wood  we  had 
cut  for  the  flooring  of  our  house  into  the  sea  to  be 
rafted  along;  and  had  got  ten  large  pieces  into  the  water 
by  breakfast-time.  After  breakfast  Mrs.  Chalmers  and  I 
were  at  the  new  house,  with  the  captain  of  the  "  Mayri," 
when  we  heard  a  noise  like  quarrelling.  On  looking 
out,  I  saw  the  natives  very  excited,  and  many  of  them 
running  with  spears  and  clubs  towards  the  house  where 
Mrs.  Chalmers,  about  five  minutes  before,  had  left  the 
teachers  rising  from  breakfast.  I  hastened  over,  and 
pushed  my  way  amongst  the  natives  till  I  got  to  the 
front,  when,  to  my  horror,  I  was  right  in  front  of  a 
gun  aimed  by  one  of  the  "  Mayri's  "  crew  (who  had  been 
helping  us  with  the  house)  at  a  young  man  brandishing 
a  spear.  The  aim  was  perfect :  had  the  gun  been  fired — 
as  it  would  have  been  had  I  not  arrived  in  time — the 
native  would  have  been  shot  dead.  I  pushed  the  native 
aside,  and  ordered  the  gun  to  be  put  down,  and  turned 
to  the  natives,  shouting,  Besi,  Best/  (Enough,  enough !). 
Some  of  them  put  down  their  spears  and  clubs,  but 
others  remained  threatening.  I  spoke  to  our  party 
against  using  firearms,  and  then  I  caught  the  young 
savage  who  was  flourishing  his  spear,  and  with  difficulty 


Thefts  by  the  Natives  105 

took  it  from  him.  Poor  fellow,  he  cried  with  rage ;  yet 
he  did  me  no  harm.  I  clapped  him  on  the  back,  and 
got  him  to  go  away.  All  day  he  sat  under  a  tree,  which 
we  had  frequently  to  pass ;  but  he  would  have  nothing 
to  say  to  us.  It  seems  a  knife  had  been  stolen,  and  he 
being  the  only  one  about  the  house  when  it  was  missed, 
was  accused  of  taking  it.  One  of  the  teachers  was 
winding  line,  and  he  caught  the  young  fellow  by  the 
arm  to  inquire  about  the  knife.  The  lad  thought  he 
was  going  to  be  tied  up  with  the  line:  he  struggled, 
got  free,  and  raised  the  alarm. 

'  Only  the  night  before  I  had  had  to  warn  the  teachers 
against  using  firearms  to  alarm  or  threaten  the  natives. 
An  axe  was  stolen ;  every  place  about  was  searched  for 
it,  and  for  some  time  without  its  being  found.  Finally, 
a  native  found  it  buried  in  the  sand  near  where  it  was 
last  used.  It  had  evidently  been  hidden  there  till  a 
favourable  opportunity  should  occur  of  taking  it  away. 
During  the  search,  the  owner  of  the  axe  (one  of  the 
teachers)  ran  off  for  his  gun,  and  came  rushing  over  with 
it.  I  ordered  him  to  take  it  back,  and  in  the  evening 
told  them  it  was  only  in  New  Guinea  that  guns  were 
used  by  missionaries.  It  was  not  so  in  any  other  mission 
I  knew  of,  and  if  we  could  not  live  amongst  the  natives 
without  arms,  we  had  better  remain  at  home ;  and  if 
I  saw  arms  used  again  by  them  for  anything,  except  to 
shoot  birds,  or  the  like,  I  should  have  the  whole  of  the 
guns  thrown  into  the  sea. 

'  One  afternoon,  after  resting,  we  were  turning  again  to 
work,  and  I  went  down  the  beach  to  the  water's  edge, 
and  called  to  the  captain  of  the  "  Mayri  "  to  look  in  a 
certain  box,  and  find  a  saw,  and  send  it  ashore.  I  heard 
a  noise,  and  on  turning  round  saw  our  house  surrounded 
by  an  armed,  ugly-looking  mob  of  painted  savages. 


io6  On  the  Brink  of  Death 

I  signed  to  the  captain  not  to  send  ashore,  and  I 
rushed  up  and  got  through  the  cordon,  and  upon  the 
platform  in  front  of  where  we  slept.  The  excitement 
was  intense.  The  men  were  demanding  tomahawks, 
knives,  hoop-iron,  beads;  and  by  signs  gave  us  to 
understand  that  if  they  did  not  get  them  then  they  would 
murder  us.  I  felt  vexed,  since  we  had  been  particularly 
careful  to  avoid  trouble,  and  had  given  no  occasion  for 
offence. 

'  One  evil-looking  fellow,  wearing  a  human  jaw-bone, 
and  carrying  a  heavy  stone  club,  rushed  towards  me  as 
if  to  strike.  Looking  him  steadily  in  the  face  our  eyes 
met,  and  I  demanded  in  loud,  angry  tones  what  he 
wanted.  He  said  tomahawks,  knives,  iron,  beads,  and 
that  if  we  did  not  give  them  they  were  going  to  kill  us. 
"  You  may  kill  us,  but  never  a  thing  will  you  get  from 
us."  Some  of  the  teachers  suggested  it  would  be  better 
to  let  them  have  a  few  things  than  for  us  to  be  mur- 
dered. I  replied,  u  Can't  you  see  if  we  give  to  these 
men,  other  parties  from  all  round  will  come  and  make 
demands,  and  the  end  will  be  that  we  shall  all  be  mur- 
dered? "  "  No,"  I  said,  "  if  they  mean  to  kill  us,  let  them 
do  it  now,  and  be  done  with  it."  I  was  in  quite  a  don't 
care  mood. 

'Kirikeu  then  approached,  and  advised  me  to  give 
the  men  a  small  present,  as  those  who  were  troubling  us 
were  people  from  the  other  side  of  the  island,  and  our 
friends  at  Suau  could  not  do  much  for  us  against  them. 
Again  I  replied,  "  No,  my  friend,  never  to  people  carry- 
ing arms  do  I  give  a  present.  All  the  time  we  have 
been  here  we  have  never  carried  arms,  and  have  dwelt 
amongst  you  as  friends." 

'  Kirikeu  then  began  to  harangue  the  crowd,  assisted 
by  the  chief  Manuegu,  and  all  retired  to  the  bush 


'I  never  give  to  Armed  People*         107 

behind  the  house.  A  deputation  waited  upon  me  from 
the  bush,  again  asking  me  to  give  something,  but  they 
received  the  same  answer,  "I  never  give  to  armed 
people." 

'  This  commotion  stopped  our  work,  and  that  night, 
for  the  first  time  since  we  landed,  we  kept  a  watch  all 
night.  There  was  a  good  deal  of  unrest  throughout 
the  night,  and  natives  were  seen  moving  about  in  the 
bush.  The  next  morning  we  resumed  work  just  as  if 
nothing  had  happened.  We  were  getting  the  wall- 
plates  on  when  Kirikeu  came,  accompanied  by  a  very 
decent-looking  native,  and  saying,  "  This  is  the  chief 
of  yesterday,  and  he  is  sorry  for  what  took  place." 
I  liked  the  look  of  the  man,  and  tried  to  explain  to 
him  his  error,  and  that  now  he  was  unarmed  and  clean 
we  were  glad  to  make  friends  with  him,  and  I  went 
over  to  the  house,  taking  him  with  me,  and  there  gave 
him  a  present. 

'  When  the  house  was  finished,  and  half  the  flooring 
down,  we  left  the  chief's  house,  and  were  glad  to  get 
quarters  of  our  own.  We  had  begun  sawing  wood  for 
flooring  and  other  necessary  work.  During  our  stay 
in  the  chief's  house  my  wife  used  to  sit  on  the  platform 
sewing  or  tatting,  and  every  day  Bocasi,  a  very  fine- 
looking  young  warrior,  wearing  the  shells  that  marked 
him  out  as  a  fighting-man,  came  and  sat  in  front  of 
her.  He  helped  her  to  learn  the  language,  and  she 
taught  him  tatting  and  knitting. 

'  The  shifting  of  the  goods  from  the  chief's  house  to 
our  new  home  was  no  easy  matter ;  and  twice  spears 
and  clubs  were  handled  by  the  natives  very  suspiciously. 
They  claimed  everything  we  had  taken  into  the  house, 
but  at  length  we  got  all  our  property  away.  Many 
things  were  stolen.  The  loss  which  troubled  us  most 


io8  On  the  Brink  of  Death 

was  the  theft  of  our  camp  oven.  We  never  saw  it  again 
for  two  years,  and  then  found  it  had  been  stolen  by 
a  man  who  had  been  most  friendly  towards  the  teachers. 
I  afterwards  sent  the  chief  a  present,  in  addition  to  pay- 
ing him  for  the  use  of  his  house,  and  for  the  ground  the 
teachers  had  occupied  with  their  tents. 

*  We  now  began  to  feel  ill  and  feverish,  I  suffering 
most  because  of  a  severe  attack  of  diarrhoea.  It  was 
nearing  the  end  of  the  year,  and  I,  having  bought 
a  piece  of  land  for  planting  purposes,  was  anxious  to 
have  it  cleared  and  planted,  so  that  on  January  i,  1878, 
I  might  be  free  to  travel  along  the  coast  to  Orangerie 
Bay  on  the  one  side,  and  Leocadie  on  the  other.  We 
missed  Bocasi  for  some  time,  and  wondered  what  had 
become  of  him.  We  got  news  that  some  white  men  had 
been  murdered  on  an  island,  and  everything  they 
possessed  divided  out  among  the  murderers.  This  led 
to  great  unsettledness  among  the  natives ;  but  we  went 
steadily  on  with  our  work. 

4  We  were  getting  to  know  many  of  the  people,  and 
we  fancied  that  we  had  gained  their  confidence.  Many  of 
the  natives  showed  kindness  in  bringing  us  vegetables 
and  fish.  We  also  received  numerous  invitations  to  feasts, 
some  of  which  were  to  cannibal  feasts.  We  were  still 
watched  day  and  night. 

4  About  noon  on  Dec.  29, 1  was  with  some  natives  in  the 
bush  at  the  back  clearing  away  some  bush,  the  teachers 
were  at  the  seaside  sawing  wood,  when  Johnnie,  one  of  the 
crew  of  the  "  Mayri,"  who  was  ashore  getting  wood  and 
water  for  our  trip  to  the  west,  came  to  me  in  the  bush, 
and  said, "  I  think  we  are  going  to  have  trouble.  Natives 
all  look  bad,  and  he  been  off  trying  make  row  we 
fellow."  "  Oh  no,  I  think  it  is  all  right,"  I  replied.  But  I 
told  the  men  to  knock  off  work,  and  come  to  the  cook- 


Trouble  brewing  109 

house,  where  I  would  pay  them  for  what  they  had  done. 
I  was  paying  them,  when  I  heard  two  shots  fired  from 
the  "  Mayri."  I  quickly  picked  up  my  things,  and  made 
a  bound  for  the  house.  The  sawyers  did  the  same. 
Two  of  the  crew  of  the  "  Mayri "  were  with  us,  and  this  left 
on  board  only  the  captain  and  the  cook,  a  Darnley 
islander,  named  Kangaroo. 

'  I  insisted  that  the  crew  should  return  on  board,  and 
on  looking  out  towards  the  vessel,  I  saw  that  she  was  in 
charge  of  natives,  and  the  long  sennit  hawser  kept 
on  deck  had  been  passed  ashore  to  natives  on  the  reef. 
Some  natives  were  pulling  up  the  anchor,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  more  the  vessel  would  have  been  ashore.  I  also 
heard  shouting  from  the  beach  where  the  dinghey  was, and 
one  of  the  crew  came  running  up  to  say  that  they  would 
not  let  them  get  the  boat  away.  I  sprang  down  from 
the  house,  and  vaulted  over  the  fence,  ran  to  the  boat 
and  sent  the  natives  flying,  and  got  her  off.  The 
natives  on  board  the  vessel,  seeing  the  dinghey  coming 
off,  let  go  the  anchor,  and  sprang  overboard,  and  those 
on  the  reef  ran  along  the  beach  to  the  village. 

'  Firing  began  from  the  vessel  as  soon  as  the  crew  got 
on  board,  and  the  shots  came  to  the  village,  and  into  the 
bush.  Natives  were  arming,  and  the  bush  seemed  all 
alive  with  them.  I  went  on  to  the  beach,  and  as  far  as  the 
chiefs  house,  where  I  saw  two  men  who  had  been 
wounded,  and  came  back  to  the  house  for  bandages.  A 
crowd  was  gathering  round  the  house,  all  carrying  arms, 
spears  and  clubs.  When  at  the  chiefs  house  I  was  told 
that  a  native  named  Bocasi  was  on  board  the  vessel. 
Getting  into  a  small  canoe  I  took  two  men  with  me,  and 
they  paddled  off.  I  thought  that  possibly  the  native 
was  detained  as  a  hostage  for  peace,  but  on  nearing  the 
vessel  I  called  out,  "  Is  there  still  a  man  on  board  ?  "  and 


no  On  the  Brink  of  Death 

the  answer  was, "  Yes,  he  board."  I  felt  he  was  dead,  and 
so  I  said,  "  Is  he  shot  ?  "  "  Yes,  he  shot  dead,  yes,  he 
dead." 

'Getting  on  board,  I  found  the  deck  covered  with 
blood,  and  the  captain  leaning  against  the  mainmast 
white  and  weak  from  loss  of  blood.  He  had  been 
speared  in  the  side,  and  he  had  a  fearful  cut  on  his  foot. 
In  the  small  hold  was  the  body  of  Bocasi,  and  my  canoe- 
men  decided  to  take  it  ashore  ;  they  were  getting  it  on 
deck,  but  I  felt  that  it  would  never  do  to  allow  them  to 
land  it.  To  take  the  body  to  land  with  me  would  mean 
instant  death  to  us  all  at  the  hands  of  the  enraged  natives. 
To  allow  it  to  land  before  me  would  mean  the  death  of 
those  ashore,  and  also  that  I  should  not  be  allowed  to 
return  to  the  land.  So  I  stepped  quickly  into  the  canoe, 
caught  the  man  in  it  under  his  arm  and  made  him  come 
with  me.  He  was  a  son  of  our  old  friend  Kirikeu,  and 
I  asked  him  to  let  me  get  to  the  house  before  he  said 
anything. 

'The  principal  people  seemed  friendly,  and  kept 
assuring  us  that  all  was  right,  we  should  not  be  harmed. 
Great  was  the  wailing  when  the  body  was  landed,  and 
arms  were  taken  up  and  then  put  down  again  fre- 
quently. Canoes  began  to  crowd  in  from  the  regions 
around. 

'  At  dusk  I  sent  off  to  the  "  Mayri  "  some  things  for  the 
native  who  was  going  to  act  as  captain,  and  for  the  mate, 
and  I  told  them  to  send  by  the  native  teacher  in  the 
canoe  all  the  barter  that  could  be  spared  us,  and  to  stand 
in  readiness  for  the  signal  to  set  off.  A  native  then 
came  in  to  us  quietly  through  the  bush  and  said, 
*'  Tamate,  you  must  get  away  to-night  if  you  can ;  at 
midnight,  perhaps,  you  may  have  a  chance  ;  to-morrow 
morning,  when  the  big  star  rises,  they  will  murder  you. " 


'We  will  stay'  in 

"  Are  you  sure  of  it  ?  "  I  asked.  "  Yes ;  I  have  just  come 
from  their  meeting-  at  the  chief's  house,  and  that  is  their 
decision  ;  they  will  do  nothing  till  to-morrow  morning-." 
Just  before  that  there  had  been  a  rush  of  the  natives,  as 
if  they  were  going-  to  take  the  mission  house ;  but  still 
they  did  not  break  the  fence.  They  came  close  up  to 
the  fence,  defying  us  and  vowing  vengeance.  The  chief 
himself  came  to  the  house  at  dusk  and  said,  "  You  must 
give  compensation."  "  Yes,"  I  said,  "  I  will  give  compen- 
sation ;  but,  remember,  I  have  had  nothing  to  do  with 
Bocasi's  death."  "  You  must  give  it  now,"  he  said.  "  I 
cannot,"  I  replied  ;  "  if  you  come  to-morrow  when  the 
big  star  rises,  I  will  give  it  you."  He  then  went  sulkily 
away. 

'  I  told  Mrs.  Chalmers  what  the  chief  had  told  me,  and 
I  said,  "  It  is  for  you  to  decide.  Shall  we  men  stay  and 
you  women  go,  as  there  is  not  room  enough  for  us  all  on 
the  vessel  ?  Or  shall  we  try  all  of  us  to  go  ?  Or  shall 
we  all  stay  ?  "  The  answer  I  received  was,  "  We  have 
come  here  to  preach  the  Gospel  and  do  these  people 
good  ;  God,  Whom  we  serve,  will  take  care  of  us.  We 
will  stay.  If  we  die,  we  die  ;  if  we  live,  we  live."  The 
teachers'  wives  then  came  up,  and  I  put  the  same 
question  to  them  ;  and  they  said  that  whatever  my  wife 
did  they  would  do ;  "  Let  us  live  together  or  die 
together."  We  decided  to  stay,  and  we  then  had  even- 
ing prayer.  We  dared  not  sing  the  evening  hymn, 
because  it  would  draw  the  people  about  us.  I  read  the 
forty-sixth  Psalm  and  engaged  in  prayer.  As  I  was 
praying  in  the  Rarotongan  dialect  we  heard  the  anchor 
being  pulled  up,  and  when  I  had  finished  I  could  see  the 
last  of  the  "  Mayri "  going  out  of  the  bay.  The  bridge  was 
then  broken,  and  we  had  simply  to  trust  Him  Who  alone 
could  care  for  us. 


it 2  On  the  Brink  of  Death 

'The  noise  during  the  night  had  somewhat  abated,  but 
in  the  morning  we  could  hear  the  natives  coming  all 
round  from  very  long  distances,  from  which  the  war- 
horn  called  them.  At  four  o'clock  the  chief  came  to  see 
me.  During  the  night  I  had  got  tomahawks,  hoop-iron, 
red  beads,  and  cloth  together.  Mrs.  Chalmers  and 
myself  made  parcels  of  them — a  large  parcel  for  the 
friends  of  the  one  who  was  killed,  and  smaller  parcels 
for  the  wounded.  These  were  shown  to  the  chief.  "  It 
is  not  enough,"  he  said  ;  "  cannot  you  give  any  more  ?" 
I  replied,  "  If  you  will  wait  till  the  steamer  comes  I  may 
be  able  to  give  you  more  ;  but  at  present  I  cannot."  "  I 
must  have  more  now."  "  I  cannot  give  you  more  now." 
The  man  then  went  away,  and  we  expected  that  the 
natives  would  attack  us  immediately.  Several  of  them 
came  as  far  as  the  fence  and  demanded  more,  but  we 
took  no  notice,  and  they  went  away. 

'  During  all  that  day  (Sunday)  we  could  not  tell  when 
the  attack  would  be  made.  Of  course  during  the  night 
and  day  we  had  to  keep  watch  and  watch.  On  Monday, 
when  a  funeral  feast  was  going  on,  and  the  man  who 
was  killed  was  being  buried,  we  thought  that  surely  the 
attack  would  be  made.  The  old  man,  who  seemed  to 
be  very  friendly,  kept  close  by  us,  and  told  us  that  we 
must  not  on  any  account  go  outside,  and  that  he  would 
be  our  friend. 

'  I  had  been  on  watch  in  the  night,  and  at  three  o'clock 
I  had  just  turned  in.  I  had  not  been  long  asleep  when 
Mrs.  Chalmers  called  out :  "  Quick !  they  have  taken  the 
house."  I  sprang  from  my  bed  and  rushed  to  one  of 
the  doors,  which  was  simply  a  piece  of  cloth  hung  in  the 
doorway.  I  threw  the  cloth  aside,  and  there  was  a  large 
armed  party  standing  in  front  of  us,  and  others  at  the 
end  of  the  house.  I  could  see  in  the  dimness  of  the 


'You  kill  him  over  my  Body*          113 

morning-  that  they  were  led  by  the  old  chief  from  the 
mainland.  Standing  before  him,  I  said,  "  What  do  you 
want  ?"  "  Give  us  more  compensation,"  said  he,  "  or  we 
will  kill  you  and  burn  the  house  now."  "  Kill  you  may," 
I  said,  "  but  no  more  compensation  do  I  give.  Remem- 
ber, if  we  die  we  shall  die  fighting  ;  and  there  is  an  end 
of  it."  The  old  man  got  frightened.  Then,  for  the  first 
time,  I  took  down  a  musket  and  showed  it  to  the  old  man. 
Some  powder  was  put  in  and  some  small  shot.  The  people 
had  seen  us  shoot  birds  before.  I  said  to  the  old  man, 
"  Go  !  tell  them  that  we  are  going  to  fight,  and  there  must 
be  an  end  to  this.  The  first  man  that  crosses  the  line 
where  that  fence  stood  "  (for  it  had  been  thrown  down) 
"  is  a  dead  man  !  Go  !  "  They  retired,  leaving  us  alone 
with  Him  Who  ever  cares  for  His  children. 

1  For  about  an  hour  and  a  half  the  savages  held  a  long 
discussion.  At  last  the  old  man  came  back,  calling  me 
by  name.  I  challenged  him ;  I  would  not  allow  him 
to  come  inside  the  fence,  as  we  feared  treachery.  He 
said,  "  It  is  all  right,"  and  looking  out  we  saw  a  large 
war  canoe  manned,  and  several  hundred  smaller  canoes 
being  lifted  into  the  water.  The  natives  in  the  war 
canoe  were  standing  up  and  saying  to  the  people  on 
shore,  "  To-morrow  we  return,  not  only  to  kill  the 
white  man  and  his  friends,  but  to  kill  all  of  you."  The 
uproar  and  confusion  at  last  ended  in  this  way.  The 
chief  had  said,  "  Before  this  white  man  came  here  with 
his  friends  I  was  nobody ;  they  have  brought  me  toma- 
hawks, hoop-iron,  red  beads,  and  cloth ;  you  have  no 
white  man,  and  if  you  try  to  kill  him,  you  kill  him  over 
my  body."  So  our  lives  were  saved.  We  dared  not, 
however,  go  far  into  the  bush  or  into  the  eastern  side  of 
the  village  for  some  considerable  time. 

*  Amidst  all  the  troubles  Mrs.  Chalmers  was  the  only 

H 


114  On  the  Brink  of  Death 

one  who  kept  calm  and  well.  The  people  became 
much  quieter,  and  no  new  demands  were  made  upon 
us.  A  few  days  later  a  cannibal  feast  of  which  we 
had  heard  was  held,  and  some  of  our  friends  took 
part  in  it. 

'  The  steamer  "  EUengowan  "  arrived  on  January  20, 
1878.  The  natives  began  to  think  no  vessel  would  come  ; 
but  when  she  arrived  they  were  frightened,  and  willing 
to  forget  the  Mayri  affair.  After  her  arrival  we  were 
able  to  go  about  among  the  people  again.' 

Such  were  the  conditions  and  such  the  savages  among 
whom  for  several  weeks  Tamate  and  his  devoted  wife 
were  literally  on  the  brink  of  death.  Later  on  they 
came  to  know  well  most  of  the  chief  actors  in  those 
stirring  scenes,  and  they  also  witnessed  a  wondrous 
change  in  many  of  those  savage  hearts.  Years  after- 
wards, in  the  light  of  fuller  knowledge,  Tamate  drew 
the  portraits  of  some  of  these  South  Cape  cannibals. 

'  Two  men/  he  wrote, '  who  were  old  when  we  arrived 
at  South  Cape,  and  men  of  influence  among  their 
neighbours,  were  very  helpful  to  us  in  many  ways. 
Kirikeu  belonged  to  Suau,  and  Quaiani  to  the  main- 
land in  Catamaran  Bay.  The  natives  of  this  bay  have 
had  a  bad  name  from  old  time,  as  cannibals,  not 
respecting  life,  and  delighting  in  robbery.  They  were 
all  thieves,  and  took  everything  they  could  lay  their 
fingers  on,  causing  us  much  trouble  and  great  anxiety. 

'  The  first  time  we  went  to  South  Cape  we  anchored 
in  the  evening,  and  in  the  morning  were  surrounded 
with  canoes  full  of  noisy  natives,  who  came  on  board 
and  made  themselves  quite  at  home.  One  old  man, 
who  seemed  to  think  he  had  a  right  to  go  everywhere 
in  our  schooner,  found  his  way  aft  and  made  friends 
with  Mrs.  Chalmers.  He  wore  round  his  neck  a  string 


Kirikeu  or  'Bag  o'  Bones'  115 

of  bones,  and  offered  these  as  a  mark  of  friendship ;  but 
they  were  not  accepted.  From  these  bones  he  was 
called  ever  after  "  Bag  o'  Bones,"  and  for  a  long  time 
was  known  by  no  other  name. 

4  His  real  name  was  Kirikeu.  When  he  knew  that  we 
wished  to  stay  and  build  a  house,  he  was  very  anxious 
we  should  live  near  him.  On  our  deciding  for  his 
village  he  was  perfectly  satisfied,  and  then  became  our 
real  friend,  resolved  to  help  us  in  every  possible  way. 
The  strip  of  land  now  belonging  to  the  London 
Missionary  Society  was  bought  from  him  and  paid 
for  in  goods.  Remembering  the  many  charges  brought 
against  missionaries  of  cheating  the  natives  in  land 
purchases,  I  determined  to  pay  for  all  land  bought  for 
mission  use  what  I  considered  a  fair  price,  so  that  in 
future  it  might  not  be  said  that  we  had  overreached 
the  natives.  I  paid  at  the  rate  of  thirty  shillings  per 
acre — a  good  price,  I  think,  for  unused  land.  Kirikeu 
and  his  friends  were  delighted,  and  he  now  looked  upon 
us  as  his  children. 

'  Kirikeu  was  the  talker  of  the  village,  and  at  night, 
or  very  early  in  the  morning,  used  to  get  on  to  the 
platform  in  front  of  his  house  when  all  were  asleep  or 
near  it,  and  express  his  thoughts  on  things  general 
or  particular.  That  is  a  very  common  habit  on  the 
part  of  the  natives  throughout  this  part  of  New  Guinea. 
Pent-up  wrath  often  explodes  on  the  platform.  Hunters 
returning  unsuccessful  from  the  chase  let  forth  on  the 
sorcerers  and  evil  spirits.  Fishermen,  after  a  weary  day 
or  night  of  trying  the  net  in  many  places,  but  "  catching 
nothing,"  will,  in  the  weary,  sleepy  native  hour  between 
eight  and  nine  at  night,  pour  forth  their  fulminations  of 
wrath.  They  may  contain  themselves  till  the  morning, 
but  when  the  morning  star  has  climbed  the  near  hills 


n6  On  the  Brink  of  Death 

they  begin,  and  continue  until  light  has  spread  itself 
like  a  gauzy  garment  over  all  Nature.  By  that  time 
their  wrath  is  gone,  and  they  hope  for  more  success  in 
future.  Kirikeu  was  great  at  this  work. 

'  When  we  were  passing  through  what  we  called  the 
Mayri  troubles,  he  was  our  adviser  as  to  where  we 
should  go  and  what  we  should  do;  and  I  believe  now 
he  used  his  influence  for  our  preservation.  During 
that  time  he  always  came  to  us  armed  with  a  large 
knife,  assuring  us  that  he  and  his  son  would  defend  us 
with  their  lives.  He  often  came  looking  anxious,  and 
besought  us  to  keep  a  good  look-out  and  not  go  far 
away.  On  the  day  of  the  burial  of  a  native  who  had 
been  shot,  when  great  crowds  were  about  our  house, 
he  would  not  go  to  the  meeting,  but  remained  by  us 
all  day,  taking  an  occasional  walk  round  in  the  bush. 
Kirikeu  knew  that  sorcerers  were  being  employed  to 
pray  us  or  exorcise  us  dead,  so  he  employed  two  old 
sorcerers  from  the  mainland  to  use  their  powers  on  our 
behalf.  Quaiani  was  one  of  them,  and  was  considered 
one  of  the  best  sorcerers  in  that  part.  Having  faith  in 
the  latter  as  a  chief,  and  knowing  him  to  be  a  man  of 
influence,  when  he  visited  us  on  the  day  of  the  funeral, 
at  the  request  of  Kirikeu,  I  gave  him  a  present.  On 
the  morning,  when,  worn  out  with  anxiety  and  with 
the  constant  threats  of  the  natives,  I  invited  them  to 
attack  us,  saying  that  we  should  defend  ourselves,  he 
was  one  of  those  I  detained  in  the  house  to  see  the 
preparation  for  defence,  and  he  it  was  who  returned 
to  report  progress  and  tell  us  that  the  natives  had  finally 
agreed  that  it  should  be  peace. 

'  Some  time  after,  when  opening  a  box,  I  brought 
out  a  bag  of  peas.  Kirikeu  was  assisting  me :  he 
thought  the  peas  were  shot,  and  at  once  left  to  inform 


Kirikeu  frightened  117 

them  in  the  village  that  we  were  terribly  armed,  and 
they  must  be  careful.  When  he  returned  in  the  after- 
noon I  spoke  sharply  to  him ;  but  he  still  thought  the 
peas  were  shot  until  he  saw  them  boiled  and  eaten. 
Our  tinned  meat  he,  with  other  natives,  believed  to  be 
man;  and  long  after  our  arrival  he  would  shake  his 
head  incredulously  when  we  tried  to  assure  him  it 
was  pig. 

4  Kirikeu  came  to  me  once  in  great  trouble.  A  chief 
had  come  to  his  house  one  morning,  and  had  been  very 
troublesome,  telling  him  the  white  man  was  useless  as  a 
chief,  having  no  arms ;  that  wherever  he  went  he  was  un- 
armed. I  told  him  I  was  a  man  of  peace,  I  had  come  to 
preach  peace,  but  if  necessary  should  defend  myself.  I 
brought  out  two  bottles — one  containing  sulphuric  acid 
and  the  other  muriatic  acid.  I  poured  a  little  of  each  on 
the  ground  close  by  him ;  the  fumes  went  into  his  face. 
Frightened,  he  started  and  ran,  I  believe,  quicker  than 
he  ever  did  before.  He  got  to  Manuegu's  house,  and 
complained  of  being  ill,  assuring  them  that  I  had 
killed  him.  There  was  great  consternation,  and  the 
old  man  came  to  inquire  and  beg  of  me  to  remove 
the  evil  influence.  I  told  him  it  was  all  right,  that 
nothing  would  happen.  He  was  quite  satisfied,  and 
left. 

'As  time  wore  on  it  became  evident  Kirikeu  was 
jealous  of  the  attention  shown  to  Quaiani ;  and  once 
when  the  latter  came  to  see  us  and  was  in  the  house, 
Kirikeu  rushed  down  to  the  beach  and  began  breaking 
the  canoe.  I  ran  down  and  dragged  him  away ;  he  was 
in  a  terrible  passion.  We  were  house- building  at  the 
time.  I  stopped  the  work,  and  told  the  people  unless 
I  was  allowed  to  have  my  friends  come  and  see  me 
unmolested  I  must  leave.  They  insisted  on  the  old 


n8  On  the  Brink  of  Death 

man  giving  compensation  to  me;  and  knowing  well 
it  was  a  native  custom,  when  he  came  with  his  armlets 
I  accepted  them,  saying  I  was  sorry  for  what  had 
happened,  and  hoped  we  should  have  no  repetition 
of  it.  In  the  afternoon  our  whole  party  went  to  him 
on  his  platform,  where  he  sat  very  disconsolate,  and 
presented  him  with  things  he  liked  much.  They  made 
all  right,  and  we  became  good  friends  again. 

4 1  left  the  South  Cape  for  a  long  time, and  then  returned 
to  find  Kirikeu  in  great  trouble  :  he  had  lost  his  only  son 
— a  man  thirty-five  years  old.  Instead  of  painting  his 
body  black,  he  had  got  on  old  clothes  given  him  by 
the  teacher,  but  I  would  certainly  have  preferred  him 
in  his  native  mourning.  He  attended  all  services  in  the 
teacher's  house,  and  was  never  absent  from  services  in 
the  chapel.  Everywhere  he  advised  the  natives  to  give 
up  cannibalism,  and  spoke  on  behalf  of  peace. 

'Quaiani  was  a  different  man;  much  more  likeable, 
much  more  excitable,  but  not  so  determined.  I  could 
not  think  him  guilty  of  doing  much  killing;  but  Kirikeu 
in  his  savage  days  gloried  in  nothing  so  much  as  in 
recounting  the  number  of  men  he  had  killed  and  eaten. 
Quaiani  adorned  himself  with  cassowary  feathers  hanging 
down  behind  from  his  arms  and  on  his  head.  He 
attended  all  native  feasts,  and  was  considered  a  great 
dancer,  and  all  round  that  region  he  was  very  much 
respected. 

*  When  I  first  visited  him  in  his  own  village  of  Varauru, 
he  presented  me  with  taro,  yams,  and  sugar-cane,  and 
a  dog  that  he  wished  to  have  slain  at  once ;  but  I  objected, 
not  desiring  to  have  to  eat  any  of  it.  My  not  doing  so, 
if  once  it  were  cooked,  would  annoy  him.  He  brought 
me  all  his  friends,  and  it  was  through  him  I  got  to  know 
natives  from  all  about  Cloudy  Mountain  and  the  ranges 


PURSUED   BY   A   MAN-CATCHER 


Quaiani  as  Interpreter  119 

extending  to  the  west  and  east.  On  my  first  long  walk 
in  New  Guinea,  Quaiani  was  my  guide,  introducer,  and 
interpreter.  When  we  reached  Vagavaga,  the  village  in 
Possession  Bay,  he  resigned  me  entirely  into  the  hands 
of  the  chiefs,  saying,  "  I  have  done,  I  have  led  you  safely 
over;  now  your  friends  will  look  after  you";  and  as- 
suredly he  did  leave  us.  He  was  much  pleased  with  the 
presents  he  and  his  people  received.  He  never  made 
any  profession  of  caring  anything  about  the  Gospel,  but 
remained  a  good  friend  of  the  mission  right  through. 
It  is  strange  that  two  men  so  very  unlike  should  have 
become  our  fast  friends. 

*  In  those  early  days  at  Suau  I  also  got  to  know  two 
cannibals,  pure  and  simple.     Ribuna  lived  at  Suau,  and 
was  a  man  of  much  influence ;  he  had  a  very  white  skin 
for  a  native,  and  his  hair  and  whiskers  were  of  a  sandy 
colour.     Rabena  lived  at  Didutuna,  a  village  about  two 
miles  from  Suau ;  he  was  a  very  quiet,  deep  man,  such  as 
could  be  a  good  friend,  or  a  nasty,  underhand,  sneaking 
enemy. 

'  Of  the  former  I  knew  more  than  the  latter,  because  at 
one  time  I  saw  him  every  day,  and  had  frequent  quarrels 
with  him.  On  my  first  arrival  at  Suau,  Ribuna  thought 
us  all  insane;  and  as  we  became  acquainted  with  him 
and  the  dialect,  and  began  to  teach  the  people  about  the 
one  living  and  true  God,  and  of  His  infinite  love  to  all 
mankind,  and  when  we  told  them  that  we  came  to  teach 
them  about  the  God  of  love  and  His  Son  Jesus  Christ, 
Ribuna  thought  it  was  all  falsehood,  and  that  our  mission 
was  a  truly  useless  one.  He  often  laughed  when  we 
spoke  of  the  Great  Spirit,  and  of  His  willingness  to  save 
men. 

*  Ribuna  was  a  terrible  pilferer,  and  used  to  pick  up 
small  things  on  every  occasion.     Once  he  was  in  a  great 


120  On  the  Brink  of  Death 

passion  with  us,  because  of  a  pig.  He  rushed  up  to  the 
house,  threw  great  stones  at  it,  and  pulled  down  part  of 
the  fence.  I  had  to  speak  very  plainly  to  him  and  warn 
him  off.  When  he  went  to  his  house  I  followed  him, 
and  found  him  surrounded  by  a  number  of  men  armed. 
I  tried  to  make  friends  with  him ;  it  was  of  no  use.  He 
sat  all  day,  surrounded  by  a  large  party,  till  nearly  sunset, 
when  he  came  to  me,  and  asked  me  to  be  friendly  and 
forgive  him  for  what  he  had  said  and  done. 

4  Once  when  there  was  a  serious  fight  on  the  beach,  of 
which  he  was  the  cause,  spears  were  thrown,  and  stones. 
A  stone  struck  him  on  the  head,  and  knocked  him  sense- 
less on  the  sand.  When  he  recovered  he  was  full  of 
wrath,  but  I  interfered,  and  got  him  away.  He  nursed 
his  wrath  all  that  night,  and  the  following  morning  was 
preparing  for  another  fight,  when  the  opposite  party 
came  and  made  friends.  During  the  time  when  we  were 
on  the  brink  of  death  at  Suau,  and  when  many  sought 
our  lives,  he  was  at  first  against  us,  but  afterwards 
decided  in  our  favour,  and  resolved  that  we  should 
live.  Ribuna  was  not  a  man  we  could  wholly  trust, 
yet  he  professed  to  be  our  friend,  and  came  frequently 
as  such  to  see  us. 

'Rabena  attended  our  religious  service,  but  seldom 
visited  us  in  a  friendly  way.  When  he  did  so  it  was 
to  pick  up  something.  Iron  of  any  kind  was  much 
sought  after  by  the  natives  at  that  time,  and  was  our 
principal  article  of  barter.  Anything  that  Rabena 
thought  would  make  good  iron  for  tomahawks  he 
stole.  For  a  long  while  after  one  of  these  thefts  he 
would  not  come  near  us,  but  his  wife  used  to  visit 
Mrs.  Chalmers,  and  bring  supplies  of  food  to  her 
for  sale. 

*  When  I  knew  these  two  men  first,  they  were  good 


A  Savage  Murder  121 

friends,  but  later  on  they  became  deadly  enemies,  and 
were  kept  from  attacking  one  another  only  by  the 
influence  of  the  mission.  Rabena  was  afraid  to  come  to 
Suau  to  attack  Ribuna,  lest  the  latter  should  be  helped 
by  the  mission.  The  cause  of  their  quarrel  was  the 
following'.  Ribuna's  wife  had  been  visiting  friends, 
at  one  of  the  neighbouring  villages,  on  the  mainland. 
There  she  met  an  old  man,  Rabena's  uncle,  and  in  con- 
versation with  him  took  some  betel-nut  from  him,  and 
chewed  it  with  pepper  and  lime.  She  returned  home, 
and  soon  afterwards  died.  Ribuna  and  his  sons  said 
that  she  had  been  poisoned,  and  determined  to  take 
revenge  for  her  death.  Nothing  was  said  until  after  the 
burial.  Then  the  sons  of  Ribuna  armed  themselves,  and 
crossed  to  the  other  side.  They  had  not  long  to  wait 
before  they  saw  Rabena's  uncle  coming  towards  them 
along  the  path,  not  suspecting  any  danger.  When  he 
came  opposite  to  them,  they  rushed  out,  speared  him  in 
several  places,  and  with  a  club  broke  his  skull.  They 
left  him  dead  on  the  path,  hurried  to  their  canoe,  crossed 
to  Suau,  and  reported  what  they  had  done,  glorying 
in  the  savage  deed.  When  Rabena  heard  of  it,  he 
hurried  across  to  the  mainland,  mourned  with  other 
friends  for  his  relative,  and  at  the  burial  vowed 
revenge. 

1  Ribuna  later  on  repented  of  the  cruel  deed,  and  made 
friends  by  payment  to  the  relatives.  All  accepted  pay- 
ment but  Rabena,  but  he  would  have  none  of  it,  saying 
that  he  would  be  satisfied  only  when  Ribuna  had  been 
eaten  by  him.  A  long  time  passed,  and  they  did  not 
meet.  Ribuna  had  been  for  some  time  attending  all  our 
services  regularly.  Rabena  and  his  wife  also  began  to 
come  frequently  to  the  mission  house,  and  became  much 
attached  to  the  native  teachers.  Both.  Rjibun.a.  and.  Rabena 


122  On  the  Brink  of  Death 

became  anxious  to  be  taught,  though  when  they  attended 
services,  they  sat  on  different  sides  of  the  house.  The 
teachers  frequently  tried  to  reconcile  the  two  men, 
but  without  success ;  all  Ribuna  would  say  was,  "  Teach 
Rabena  and  leave  him  alone ;  it  may  be  the  light  will 
remove  his  hatred."  Ribuna  was  anxious  for  peace  and 
friendship  ;  but  had  it  not  been  for  the  influence  of 
the  Gospel,  the  quarrel  would  have  soon  been  settled 
by  the  death  of  one  or  both  of  the  men. 

'  Time  passed  on,  and  the  entrance  of  light  into  his 
mind  and  heart  softened  Rabena.  In  this  good  work 
his  wife  helped  him  much.  She  learned  more  and  faster 
than  her  husband;  and  used  all  her  influence  to  bring 
him  to  a  right  state  of  mind.  As  the  months  passed  on, 
several  natives  from  various  parts  round  Suau  joined 
the  catechumen  class,  and  became  anxious  for  baptism — 
amongst  them  Rabena's  wife.  She  was  an  earnest,  in- 
telligent woman.  In  1882,  twenty-one  were  baptized 
into  the  Church  of  Christ,  and  amongst  them  Rabena's 
wife.  When  the  service  was  over,  Rabena  expressed 
a  desire,  through  the  teachers,  to  be  made  friends  with 
Ribuna.  This  was  accordingly  done  in  the  native  fashion 
by  an  exchange  of  presents,  the  teachers  assisting  both 
parties.  After  shaking  hands,  they  sat  down  together, 
and  prayer  was  offered  for  them  both,  and  for  all  present, 
that  they  might  live  in  peace  and  true  friendship,  in  holy 
and  sincere  love  to  Christ.  Soon  after  this  happy  event 
Rabena  joined  the  classes,  was  baptized,  after  an  earnest 
profession  of  faith  in  Christ,  was  received  into  the 
Church.  Thus,  in  the  case  of  these  two  men,  the 
teaching  of  the  Gospel  prevented  murder  and  cannibal- 
ism. Who  shall  say  it  has  lost  any  of  its  glorious  ancient 
power  ? ' 

Many  years  later  a  young  colleague  of  Tamate's  in 


Suau  in  Later  Days  123 

the  New  Guinea  Mission,  the  Rev.  C.  W.  Abel,  of  Kwato, 
visited  Suau.  He  has  given  an  account  of  this  visit, 
which  exhibits  in  a  striking  way  Tamate's  extraordinary 
power  over  the  savage  mind  and  heart. 

*  I  remember,  some  years  ago,  spending  an  evening  at 
Suau,  in  the  Daui  district,  where  Tamate  passed  a  night 
and  a  day  as  a  prisoner,  and  where  the  destruction  of  his 
life  was  only  postponed  from  hour  to  hour  because  of 
a  wrangle  amongst  the  people  as  to  who  had  the  right 
to  kill  him  and  claim  his  body  as  a  prize.  I  was  speak- 
ing to  a  group  of  men  in  the  little  mission  house  there, 
two  of  whom  had  been  prominent  actors  on  the  occasion 
of  Tamate's  detention.  They  had  of  course  the  most 
vivid  recollection  of  every  incident  of  that  night's  stirring 
episode.  They  were  able  to  tell  me  of  the  conflicting 
passions  which  swayed  their  minds ;  they  described  the 
excitement  which  the  capture  and  incarceration  of  this 
strange  white  man  caused  in  the  vicinity  of  their  village, 
and  they  told  me  how  their  friends  from  the  other  side 
of  the  island  and  across  the  narrow  strait  on  the  main- 
land came  in  their  canoes  to  participate  in  the  sensation, 
and  to  share  in  the  spoils  of  bloodshed ;  they  were  able 
now  to  rejoice  in  the  fact  that,  through  a  local  dispute, 
the  life  of  the  man  who  afterwards  became  their  friend 
was  saved.  They  were  cannibals  at  Suau  at  that  time ; 
but  the  practice  was  abandoned  at  this  village  before 
Tamate  left  the  east  end  to  join  Dr.  Lawes  at  Port 
Moresby. 

'It  was  on  another  occasion  when  I  was  speaking 
to  Manurewa,  the  chief  of  Suau,  that  the  subject  of 
cannibalism  came  under  discussion. 

* "  What  led  you,"  I  asked, "  to  give  up  this  practice  ?  " 

'Manurewa  straightened  himself  up,  clenched  his 
hands,  and  his  usually  calm  face  wore  a  stern,  deter- 


124  On  the  Brink  of  Death 

mined  expression:  he  was  evidently  unconsciously 
remembering  a  scene  of  bygone  days,  and  in  his  mind 
there  was  the  figure  of  a  man  to  whom  command 
came  natural. 

'  "  Tamate ! "  he  said ;  and  with  a  gesture  of  insistence 
he  continued,  "Tamate  said,  'You  must  give  up  can- 
nibalism ' :  and  we  did." ' 

Early  in  1878  Tamate  visited  all  the  stations  along 
the  coast  from  Suau  to  Port  Moresby,  from  thence  he 
went  on  to  Murray  Island,  and  to  Thursday  Island  and 
Cooktown.  From  Cooktown,  after  coaling  and  refitting, 
the  '  Ellengowan '  returned  to  South  Cape.  He  was 
away  for  several  weeks,  and  on  his  return  to  Suau  he 
wrote : 

'  Mrs.  Chalmers  was  well,  and  had  been  treated  right 
kindly  by  the  savages,  they  bringing  her  food,  and  tell- 
ing her  that  she  must  eat  plenty,  so  that  when  Tamate 
returned  she  might  be  looking  well  and  strong.  Mrs. 
Chalmers  says  it  is  well  she  remained,  as  the  natives  saw 
we  had  confidence  in  them,  and  the  day  following  our 
departure  they  were  saying  amongst  themselves,  "  They 
trust  us;  we  must  treat  them  kindly.  They  cannot 
mean  us  harm,  or  Tamate  would  not  have  left  his  wife 
behind."' 

In  the  splendid  record  of  nineteenth-century  missions 
no  more  courageous  and  self-denying  action  can  be 
found  than  this  decision  of  Mrs.  Chalmers  to  remain 
alone  amid  a  horde  of  cannibals  for  the  sake  of  Christ's 
work  among  them,  and  for  the  benefit  of  her  Rarotongan 
fellow  workers.  Tamate  wished  her  to  go  with  him. 
But  she  felt  that  if  she  did  the  work  would  suffer,  and 
the  Rarotongan  teachers  might  sicken  and  die.  So  she 
decided  to  stay.  When  her  husband  left  her  there  was 
no  possibility  of  receiving  any  tidings  of  him  until  he 


Courage  of  Mrs.  Chalmers  125 

himself  brought  back  the  tale  of  his  wanderings.  She 
knew  well  enough  that  danger  attracted  him,  that  the 
worse  the  reputation  of  any  tribe  or  place  the  more 
likely  he  was  to  go  there. 

The  terrible  experiences  she  and  her  husband  had 
passed  through  only  a  few  weeks  before  might  well 
have  unnerved  the  strongest  heart.  Chalmers  came  to 
know  afterwards,  from  one  of  the  chiefs,  that  again  and 
again  the  murder  of  the  whole  missionary  party  had 
been  determined,  and  those  appointed  to  do  the  deed 
had  come  once  and  again  to  the  low  fence  which 
surrounded  the  rough  mission  home.  They  had  only  to 
step  over  it  and  rush  in  upon  and  murder  the  unarmed 
man  and  his  wife.  Had  they  done  so  their  companions 
would  have  hailed  them  as  heroes.  But  the  same  chief 
told  Chalmers  that  at  the  low  fence  some  mysterious 
thing  kept  them  back.  What  was  it?  Can  there  be 
any  doubt  ?  It  was  the  restraining  Hand  of  that  God 
and  Father  in  Whom  both  His  servants  so  firmly 
trusted,  at  Whose  call  they  had  come  to  Suau,  and 
for  Whose  sake  they  were  willing  to  lay  down  their 
lives. 

Yet  Mrs.  Chalmers  allowed  her  husband  at  the  call  of 
duty  to  go  from  her,  leaving  her  at  the  mercy  of  savages 
who  were  only  just  beginning  to  know  them  and  their 
ways.  Her  only  helpers  were  two  or  three  Rarotongan 
teachers  and  their  wives.  All  her  possessions  were 
eagerly  coveted  by  the  savages  who  surrounded  her, 
and  the  bodies  of  herself  and  the  Rarotongan  teachers 
would  have  been  considered  choice  dainties  for  a  great 
cannibal  feast.  We  marvel  at  her  courage,  at  her  faith, 
at  the  quiet  heroism  which  led  her  to  endure  the  unen- 
durable because  she  did  not  think  it  right  to  leave  the 
weaker  teachers  to  bear  the  strain  alone,  and  because  she 


126  On  the  Brink  of  Death 

thought  that  if  she  went  with  her  husband  the  absence 
of  both  would  injure  the  work  so  well  and  so  hopefully 
begun. 

But  though  her  courage  and  her  faith  rose  supreme, 
the  strain  upon  her  health  was  great.  Probably  some 
inherent  weakness  in  her  constitution  would  never  have 
permitted  her  long  to  endure  the  life  in  New  Guinea. 
And  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  nervous  excitement 
of  the  thrilling  scenes  through  which  she  had  passed 
during  the  previous  three  months,  and  the  intense  strain 
which  she  had  to  bear  through  her  weeks  of  loneliness, 
rendered  her  more  susceptible  to  fever,  and  hastened  the 
end.  Neither  she  nor  her  husband  had  realized  how 
serious  her  state  of  health  was ;  and  when  one  remem- 
bers how  ill-health  depresses,  and  tends  to  weaken 
courage,  we  find  only  more  reason  to  wonder  that 
she  was  able  to  act  as  she  did. 

In  October,  1878,  Mrs.  Chalmers  was  so  ill  that  she 
had  to  leave  Suau  and  go  on  a  visit  to  friends  at  Sydney, 
in  the  hope  that  there  she  might  get  better.  Every- 
thing that  skill  and  kindness  could  do  was  done;  but 
all  in  vain.  In  February,  1879,  she  died,  and  a  life  of 
splendid  devotion  and  heroic  courage  in  the  service  of 
God  and  of  men  was  brought  to  an  early  close.  Tamate 
had  not  gone  to  Sydney  with  her,  keeping  at  work  in 
obedience  to  her  own  urgent  request.  '  On  no  account 
leave  the  teachers,'  was  her  solemn  charge  to  him  in 
the  last  letter  he  ever  received  from  her.  One  who 
was  with  her  in  the  last  days  of  her  life  on  earth 
wrote : — 

'  Her  mind  to  the  last  was  bright  and  vigorous.  She 
delighted  to  talk  on  the  missionary  work,  and  especially 
on  scenes  and  events  in  the  New  Guinea  Mission,  regard- 
ing the  prospects  of  which  she  was  very  hopeful.  Had 


Death  of  Mrs.  Chalmers  127 

it  pleased  God  to  spare  her  to  return  to  that  mission, 
she  would  have  proved  a  most  valuable  labourer;  but 
He  has,  in  His  inscrutable  will,  called  her  away  to  the 
heavenly  rest,  and  New  Guinea  and  the  Missionary 
Society  have  lost  one  of  the  brightest  heroines  the 
mission  field  has  known.' 


CHAPTER    VIII 

THE  MAN  WITH   THE  CLUB 

THE  thrilling-  experiences  described  in  the  last  chapter 
only  whetted  Chalmers's  desire  to  see  more  of  New 
Guinea  and  to  get  to  know  better  her  fierce  and  savage 
people.  The  '  Ellengowan  '  had  been  thoroughly  refitted 
at  Sydney;  and  in  the  spring  of  1878  Chalmers 
embarked  on  a  cruise  from  east  to  west  along  the  south 
coast  of  New  Guinea.  He  visited  in  all  one  hundred 
and  five  villages,  and  of  these  ninety  for  the  first  time  in 
him  saw  a  white  man.  Several  bays,  harbours,  rivers, 
and  islands  were  discovered  and  named ;  the  country 
between  Meikle  and  Orangerie  Bays,  together  with  that 
lying  at  the  back  of  Kerepunu,  was  explored,  and  the 
entire  coast  line,  from  Keppel  Point  to  Macfarlane 
Harbour,  traversed  on  foot. 

*  I  began  my  journeys  on  New  Guinea,'  he  tells  us,  *  in 
parts  hitherto  unknown,  and  amongst  tribes  supposed  to 
be  hostile.  I  resolved,  come  what  might,  to  travel 
unarmed,  trusting  to  Him  in  Whose  work  I  was  engaged, 
and  feeling  that  no  harm  could  come  to  me  while  in 
His  care. 

1  On  leaving  Heath  Island  we  really  began  on  new  and 
little  known  seas  and  country,  and  we  first  anchored  in  a 
bay  we  called  Inverary  Bay.  On  landing1  we  were  met 
by  a  few  men,  the  others  coming  out  with  goods  and 
chattels.  We  steamed  round  by  the  Leocadie,  through 
what  forms  a  good  harbour  for  small  vessels,  and  over 


Early  Explorations  129 

by  the  sandbanks  in  Catamaran  Bay.'  He  also  went 
further  east  round  Rugged  Head  to  Farm  Bay,  and  well 
up  to  the  head  of  the  bay,  anchoring  opposite  to 
Naroopoo.  He  there  landed,  and  soon  had  an  admiring 
crowd  round  him.  He  was  dressed  in  white,  with  black 
leather  boots.  Sitting  on  a  verandah,  some  of  the 
natives,  more  daring  than  others,  came  up,  touched  his 
shirt  and  trousers,  bit  their  fingers  and  ran  away.  Again 
and  again  this  was  done  by  the  bold  ones,  who  always 
eyed  his  boots.  After  consultation,  one  old  woman 
mustered  enough  courage  and  came  up  and  touched  his 
trousers,  and  finally  his  boots.  She  was  trembling  all 
over,  but  when  Chalmers  lifted  his  foot  and  pulled  his 
boot  off,  she  screamed  wildly  and  ran  away  at  full 
speed,  some  others  setting  out  with  her,  nor  did  they 
stop  until  quite  out  of  sight. 

The  following  morning  many  canoes  came  alongside, 
and  on  the  '  Ellengowan '  getting  up  steam  they  were 
much  afraid.  It  was  evident  they  wanted  to  show  that 
they  had  confidence  in  their  visitors,  but  it  was  difficult 
with  the  steam  up,  the  snorting  and  general  commotion 
on  board  being  so  great.  They  were  warned  on  getting 
up  anchor  to  clear  off.  Why  should  they  ?  There  was 
no  sail,  and  they  did  not  see  how  the  ship  was  going  to 
move.  When  the  signal  to  start  was  given  there  was  a 
commotion  aft,  the  canoes  with  their  crews  clearing  away 
to  a  very  safe  distance.  One  canoe  bolder  than  the  rest 
hung  on  and  was  pulled  under  the  water.  There  was  a 
wild  shout,  a  moment's  silence,  and  then  a  loud  roar  of 
laughter,  when  the  others  saw  the  canoe  and  paddlers 
appear  some  distance  astern.  The  '  Ellengowan '  rounded 
One  Tree  Point,  and,  keeping  on,  anchored  outside  the 
Roux  Islands,  in  a  fine  safe  harbour. 

*  We  had  some  difficulty,'  says  Mr.  Chalmers,  'in  getting 

I 


130  The  Man  with  the  Club 

a  canoe  to  come  alongside,  and  it  was  not  until  we  had 
fastened  a  piece  of  red  cloth  to  a  stick,  and  floated  it 
astern,  that  the  first  canoe  would  come  near.  The 
natives  approached  and  picked  up  the  red  cloth.  We 
then  showed  them  pieces  of  hoop-iron.  They  gradually 
came  near  enough  to  take  hold  of  a  piece,  to  look  well 
at  it ;  and  then  finally  decided  to  come  alongside.  After 
they  were  once  alongside  we  soon  became  friendly ;  and 
seeing  what  had  happened  to  their  friends  other  canoes 
came  off,  and  trading  for  curios  began. 

'I  asked  the  captain  to  keep  on  trading  as  long  as 
possible,  and  then  I  hastened  ashore,  to  see  the  chief  of 
one  of  the  villages.  As  long  as  trading  canoes  remain 
alongside  a  visiting  vessel  any  persons  who  land  are 
perfectly  safe  ;  but  care  should  be  taken  to  return  on 
board  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  canoes  leave  the 
vessel.  The  tide  was  far  out  when  our  boat  touched  the 
beach  A  crowd  met  us,  and  in  every  hand  was  a  club 
or  spear.  I  stood  on  the  bow  of  the  boat  ready  to 
spring  ashore,  but  I  was  warned  not  to  land.  I  told 
them  I  had  come  to  see  the  chief,  to  give  him  a  present ; 
and  that  I  must  see  him. 

' "  Give  us  your  present,  and  we  will  give  it  to  him," 
they  replied,  "but  you  must  not  land." 

' "  I  am  Tamate,  from  Suau,  and  have  come  as  a  friend 
to  visit  your  old  chief,  and  I  must  land." 

4  An  elderly  woman  came  close  up  to  the  boat,  saying, 
"You  must  not  land,  but  I  will  take  the  present,  or,'» 
pointing  to  a  young  man  close  by,  "  he  will  take  it  for 
his  father,  as  he  is  the  chief's  son." 

' "  No,"  I  replied,  "I  must  see  the  chief  for  myself;  but 
the  son  I  should  also  like  to  know,  and  will  give  him  a 
presen  to  ." 

4  The  tide  was  far  out  and  two  of  the  crew,  South  Sea 


'If  I  had  that  Club  in  my  Hand'       131 

Islanders,  were  left  in  the  boat  with  careful  instructions 
to  keep  her  afloat. 

'  I  stepped  into  the  water,  followed  by  the  mate,  a  fine 
daring  fellow,  much  accustomed  to  roughing  it  on  the 
diggings,  and  not  the  least  afraid  of  natives.  We  walked 
up  the  long  beach  to  the  village,  through  the  mangrove 
to  the  chief's  house.  The  old  man  was  seated  on  the 
platform  in  front  of  the  house,  nursing  a  small  child,  and 
did  not  even  deign  to  rise  to  receive  us.  I  told  him  who 
I  was,  and  the  object  of  my  coming.  He  heard  me 
through,  and  then  replied  that  he  knew  all  about  me. 
I  placed  my  present  on  the  platform  in  front  of  him,  and 
then,  hoping  to  please  him,  offered  a  present  to  the  child. 
I  waited  for  some  word  of  satisfaction  ;  but  none  escaped 
the  stern  old  chieftain.  He  picked  up  the  things  I  had 
tried  to  give  him,  and  threw  them  back  at  me.  Presents 
of  beads  were  handed  to  little  children  in  arms,  but 
indignantly  returned.  There  was  loud  laughing  on  the 
outskirts  of  the  crowd  and  a  little  jostling,  and  I  could 
see  a  storm  was  brewing. 

1 "  Gould,"  said  I  to  the  mate,  "  I  think  we  had  better 
get  away  from  here ;  keep  your  eyes  open,  and  let  us 
make  quietly  for  the  beach." 

'  To  the  chief  I  said,  "  Friend,  I  am  going,  you  stay." 
Lifting  his  eyebrows,  he  said,  "  Go." 

'  As  we  passed  through  the  mangrove,  we  could  see 
that  the  bush  all  around  us  was  full  of  natives  armed 
with  clubs  and  spears.  We  were  followed  by  a  big  crowd, 
and  one  man  with  a  large  round  club  walked  behind  me, 
and  uncomfortably  near.  The  thought  crossed  my  mind 
that  if  I  had  that  club  in  my  hand,  I  should  feel  a  little 
more  comfortable.  We  reached  the  beach  and  saw  that 
the  canoes  had  left  the  vessel,  and  were  hurrying  ashore. 
Our  boat  was  afloat,  but  we  still  had  some  distance  to  go. 

I  2 


132  The  Man  with  the  Club 

4  Again  I  felt  I  must  have  that  club,  or  that  club  will 
have  me.  I  had  a  large  piece  of  hoop-iron,  such  as  is 
highly  prized  by  the  natives,  in  my  satchel.  I  took  it  out, 
wheeled  quickly  round,  presented  it  to  the  savage,  whose 
eyes  were  dazzled  by  it  as  ours  would  be  with  a  bar  of 
gold.  With  my  left  hand  I  seized  the  club  and  wrenched 
it  out  of  his  hand,  and  before  he  knew  what  was  done  I 
was  heading  that  procession,  armed  as  a  savage,  and 
feeling  a  good  deal  more  comfortable  than  I  had  a 
minute  or  two  before.  The  crew  of  the  boat  in  their 
excitement  had  allowed  it  to  ground.  I  stood  in  the 
water  holding  the  club  and  facing  and  keeping  the  crowd 
back  until  the  boat  was  floated.  We  got  safely  away. 

'We  learned  long  afterwards  why  they  treated  us 
so.  Our  Suau  natives  had  been  there,  showed  them 
some  knives  we  had  given  them  and  challenged  them 
to  fight.  They  also  taunted  them,  "  You  have  no  white 
living  with  you."  Hence  when  they  saw  me  they  said, 
"  Now  the  Suau  white  man  is  in  our  hands.  Let  us 
kill  him  and  those  with  him." 

4  From  Fyfe  Bay  we  went  round  to  Meikle  Bay,  where 
I  visited  all  the  villages,  and  was  well  received.  At  one 
some  distance  inland  our  mate,  who  had  his  fowling-piece 
with  him,  saw  a  very  pretty  parrot  on  a  cocoanut  tree. 
He  approached  until  close  under — the  natives,  about 
forty  in  number,  standing  breathlessly  round,  and 
wondering  what  was  going  to  happen.  He  raised  his 
gun ;  there  was  a  loud  bang.  Down  dropped  the 
parrot ;  a  wail  arose,  hands  were  clapped  to  ears,  there 
was  a  shout,  and  we  were  left  alone  with  the  chief,  who 
happened  to  be  standing  close  by  me.  Those  natives 
only  ceased  running  when  they  reached  their  homes. 

'  We  visited  several  villages,  and  at  sundown  returned. 
In  the  dark  we  travelled  along  the  bed  of  a  creek, 


A  Veritable  Hero  133 

passing  small  villages,  whose  inhabitants  were  terribly 
alarmed,  but  none  more  so  than  the  chief  who  had  stood 
near  me  when  the  parrot  was  shot.  Poor  fellow,  he  was 
frightened.  How  nimbly  he  ascended  his  platform  on 
our  arrival  at  his  house,  where  his  two  wives  were 
crying,  thinking  he  had  already  been  slain  by  the  terrible 
white  men,  but  now  rejoiced  to  see  him  in  the  body. 
Long  ago  the  escort  had  returned  with  a  terrible  tale, 
and  they  had  feared  whether  their  husband  could  have 
lived  through  it  all.  But  now  that  he  had  returned 
safely  he  was  considered  a  veritable  hero,  to  be  sung 
about  in  many  a  song  and  shouted  about  in  many  a 
dance.  Friends  gathered  round;  he  told  the  thrilling 
tale ;  he  showed  the  bird ;  the  wives  examined  it,  then 
the  crowd  of  relatives.  He  afraid !  oh  dear  no !  But  he 
looked  pale  for  a  native,  and  no  quantity  of  hoop-iron 
could  induce  him  to  move  from  that  platform  and  the 
sides  of  those  dear  wives  that  night. 

'  The  following  day  we  got  round  to  Ellengowan  Bay. 
After  visiting  all  the  villages,  I  went  right  up  to  the 
head  of  the  bay  to  see  Silo  and  its  chief.  The  tide  was 
very  low,  and  after  pulling  the  boat  some  distance 
through  mud  we  left  her  in  charge  of  the  two  rowers, 
the  mate  and  I  going  to  the  village.  He  had  hoop-iron 
cut  in  seven-inch  lengths  in  his  pockets.  The  old  chief 
received  us  graciously,  and  began  giving  me  a  long 
story  of  what  he  wished  to  do  in  the  way  of  pigs  and 
food,  if  I  would  only  stay  two  days.  It  was  a  sickly- 
looking  hole,  and  not  being  quite  rid  of  fever,  I  wanted 
to  get  on  board  and  sail  away  in  an  hour.  A  large 
crowd  gathered  round,  all  armed,  all  very  noisy,  and 
certainly  not  gentle.  A  slight  scuffle  took  place,  but 
was  soon  over.  The  mate  missed  some  of  his  hoop- iron, 
caught  one  young  man  with  a  piece,  and  took  it  from 


134  The  Man  with  the  Club 

him.  The  crowd  increased.  I  told  the  chief  I  should 
prefer  his  people  unarmed,  and  not  so  noisy.  He  spoke 
to  them.  Some  put  down  their  clubs  and  spears  ;  but 
only  hid  them  in  the  bush  close  by.  We  bade  the  chief 
good-bye,  but  he  expressed  a  great  wish  to  see  us  in 
the  boat.  Trying  to  appear  as  careless  as  possible  we 
made  towards  the  beach,  attended  by  a  noisy  crowd, 
who  had  all  picked  up  their  arms  again. 

'  Remembering  the  difficulty  we  had  had  in  landing, 
and  knowing  that  savages  always  prefer  to  kill  strangers 
who  visit  them  outside  their  own  villages,  since 
hospitality  ends  when  friends  have  left  the  precincts, 
I  determined  not  to  have  that  crowd  near  the  boat.  I 
asked  the  chief  to  send  them  back.  But  to  him  they 
would  not  listen,  and  still  the  noisy  crowd  followed  hard 
upon  us.  I  shouted  to  them  to  return,  and  not^come 
troubling  us,  as  we  were  going  away  in  the  boat.  It  was 
all  no  use  ;  on  they  followed ;  and  that  boat  they  meant  to 
visit.  I  stood  still,  and  not  feeling  particularly  cheerful, 
I  told  them  to  go  on,  and  go  off  to  the  vessel — that 
I  should  wait  and  return  to  the  village.  Stamping  my 
foot,  as  if  in  a  towering  passion,  I  told  the  chief,  "  Go 
with  all  your  people  to  the  boat ;  as  for  me,  I  shall 
return."  This  had  the  desired  effect.  The  people  fled, 
and  the  few  who  remained  listened  to  the  old  chief,  and 
came  after  us  no  further.  We  got  to  the  boat  and  away, 
thankful  to  have  escaped  without,  what  might  have  so 
easily  happened,  the  loss  of  all  our  lives.' 

Any  one  who  ever  heard  Tamate's  trumpet  tones  on 
a  platform  when  he  was  speaking  under  excitement,  can 
understand  why  that  shout  terrified  the  wild  savages 
eager  to  murder  them. 

A  third  incident  of  the  same  kind  happened  soon 
after,  *  I  went  ashore,'  Chalmers  tells  us, '  in  one  of  the 


Trouble  with  the  Natives  135 

canoes,  to  be  landed  at  Bootu,  in  order  to  walk  across  to 
Milne  Bay.  Before  leaving  the  vessel  I  engaged  with 
the  natives  to  take  me  to  the  head  of  the  lagoon,  and, 
when  I  had  seen  Milne  Bay,  to  return  me  to  the  vessel. 
As  soon  as  they  had  done  this  I  promised  to  pay  them 
well  for  all  their  trouble.  So  with  our  bags  and  a  few 
eatables  we  started.  But  when  about  a  mile  away  from 
the  vessel,  they  headed  the  canoe  more  in  towards  the 
right  shore,  and  no  amount  of  talk,  either  in  calmness  or 
wrath,  could  get  them  to  do  otherwise.  We  touched  at 
a  place  not  far  from  a  village  we  had  visited  some  time 
before  — some  of  the  natives  left  us,  and  we  thus  became 
too  weak  to  proceed  on  the  journey  we  had  planned. 

*  We  ran  down  to  the  village,  where  we  landed  with  my 
bag ;  and  then  away  went  my  native  canoe-men.  Neither 
love  nor  money  would  move  the  villagers,  and  they 
became  exceedingly  impudent,  knowing  well  that  we 
were  quite  in  their  hands.  My  friend  the  mate,  who  had 
insisted  on  accompanying  me,  agreed  with  me  that 
things  were  in  a  bad  way  with  us,  and  that  a  sharp  eye, 
and  quick  ear,  and  quick  action  were  of  prime  im- 
portance. The  savages  at  once  went  to  get  their  clubs 
and  spears,  and  begged  and  insisted  on  presents.  But 
they  were  astonished,  I  doubt  not,  to  find  their  begging 
of  little  avail. 

'  u  Go  to  the  vessel,  if  you  want  presents." 

' "  Why  are  you  anchored  so  far  off  ?  " 

'  "  Can't  get  nearer,  and  only  wish  you  would  show  me 
the  way  in  close  to  here." 

'  Pointing  to  a  passage  close  in  shore,  I  suggested  they 
had  better  take  us  off,  and  we  would  try  and  get  the 
ship  round  when  the  tide  rose.  But  to  this  they  objected, 
and  instead  of  becoming  more  friendly,  it  seemed  to  us 
they  were  just  going  the  other  way.  But  that  may  have 


136  The  Man  with  the  Club 

been  merely  our  fancy,  since  we  were  looking-  at  them 
through  the  coloured  glasses  of  suspicion,  and  of  doubt 
whether  we  should  again  see  the  vessel. 

4  A  few  men  came  running  along  the  beach.     I  met 
them,  and  hurriedly  asked  them  to  take  us  off,  promising 
to  give  them  hoop- iron  and  beads. 
4 "  Yes." 

4 "  Quick !  do  not  let  them  think !  Into  the  nearest  canoe." 
4  Away  in   the   distance   those    in   the   village  were 
shouting  and  gesticulating. 

' "  Come  back !     Come  back,  at  once." 
4  44  Oh  no,  my  friends  ;  pull,  you  must  pull !  " 
4  While  they  were  discussing  we  were  paddling.     I  tell 
our  canoe-men  it  will  be  dangerous  to  attempt  going 
back.     On  we   go,  beyond  small   islands   in   sight  of 
vessel ;  and  at  last  our  crew  give  up  speaking  of  return- 
ing-.    We  got  off;  and  I  paid  the  fellows  well.' 

One  other  incident  illustrates  the  risks  Tamate  con- 
stantly ran  at  this  time  in  his  efforts  to  become  friendly 
with  the  natives  of  as  many  parts  of  New  Guinea  as  he 
could: — 

'  After  visiting  the  Keakaro  and  Aroma  districts,  our 
journeyings  were  nearly  brought  to  a  sudden  close. 
We  were  walking  along  half-way  between  the  point  next 
to  Macfarlane  Harbour  and  Mailu,  when  we  saw  the 
boat,  and  waved  to  them  to  come  in  and  take  us  off. 
They  came  near  to  the  surf,  but  not  near  enough  for  us 
to  get  on  board.  I  called  out  to  them  to  go  along  to  a 
boat  entrance  at  Mailu,  further  along  the  coast.  Great 
numbers  of  natives  were  with  us ;  we  saw,  in  the  distance, 
numbers  more  sitting  on  the  beach,  and  armed.  Some 
of  those  following  us  were  armed.  When  within  two 
miles  of  where  the  boat  was  to  await  us,  we  came  upon 
a  crowd  of  men  and  women.  The  men  carried  spears, 


'Let  us  walk  and  pray*  137 

clubs,  or  pieces  of  hard  wood,  used  in  opening  cocoa- 
nuts  ;  the  women  had  clubs.  Some  time  before  this,  I 
said  to  the  teacher  and  Loyalty  Islander,  "  Keep  a  good 
look-out ;  I  fear  there  will  be  mischief  here." 

'  When  we  came  upon  the  last  group  of  natives,  I 
asked  for  a  cocoanut  in  exchange  for  beads.  A  man 
was  giving  it  to  me,  when  a  young  man  stepped  for- 
ward, and  sent  him  back.  We  hastened  our  steps,  so  as 
to  get  to  the  village.  The  teacher  heard  them  discussing 
as  to  the  best  place  for  the  attack.  I  said  to  him,  "  Wrhat 
are  they  saying  ? "  He  replied,  "  They  are  saying 
they  intend  to  kill  us.  Let  us  kneel  down  and  pray." 
"  No,  no,"  I  replied,  "  let  us  walk  and  pray,"  and  I  strode 
resolutely  forward.  I  carried  a  satchel,  which  had  beads 
and  hoop-iron  in  it ;  they  tried  to  get  hold  of  it.  I  gave 
presents  of  beads ;  but  some  of  these  were  indignantly 
returned.  I  was  marching  along  in  front,  between  two 
men  with  clubs,  who  kept  telling  me  I  was  a  bad  man. 
I  held  their  hands,  one  of  theirs  in  each  of  mine,  and 
kept  them  so  that  they  could  not  use  their  clubs.  The 
Loyalty  Islander  had  a  fowling-piece  which  we  had 
brought  with  us,  thinking  we  might  be  away  some 
days,  and  might  have  to  shoot  game  for  our  dinners. 
The  natives  tried  hard  to  get  him  to  fire  the  gun  off, 
and  twice  they  tried  to  wrest  it  from  him.  They  knew 
wrhat  guns  were,  and  with  reason.  They  tried  to  trip 
us  ;  they  jostled  us  ;  but  on  we  went. 

4  When  near  the  village  two  men  came  close  up  behind 
me  with  large  wooden  clubs,  but  these  were  taken 
from  them  by  two  women,  who  ran  off  to  the  village. 
Things  looked  black  indeed,  and  each  of  us  prayed  in 
silence  to  Him  Who  rules  over  the  heathen.  Soon  a  man 
came  rushing  along,  seized  the  club,  and  took  it  from 
the  man  on  my  left,  and  threw  it  in  the  sea.  He  tried 


138  The  Man  with  the  Club 

to  do  the  same  with  the  one  on  my  right ;  but  he  was 
too  light  a  man  and  did  not  succeed.  An  old  woman, 
when  at  the  point,  came  out  and  asked  them  what  they 
meant,  and  followed  us,  talking  to  them  all  the  way,  so 
diverting  their  thoughts. 

*  An  old  chief,  whom  we  had  seen  on  our  way  up,  came 
hurriedly  along  to  meet  us,  calling  out,  "  Mine  is  the 
peace !  What  have  these  foreigners  done  that  you  want 
to  kill  them  ? "  He  closed  up  to  the  teacher,  and  took 
him  by  the  hand.  Another  chief  walked  close  behind 
me.  They  began  to  talk  loudly  amongst  themselves. 
Some  were  blaming  others  that  we  had  been  allowed  to 
get  near  the  village  ;  and  others  were  saying  that  there 
was  yet  time  to  kill  us.  The  boat  was  anchored  some 
distance  off  and  we  got  her  to  come  in  nearer.  Just 
when  we  were  ready  to  move  off  to  the  boat,  I  .opened 
my  satchel,  gave  hoop- iron  to  our  friends,  the  chiefs, 
and  threw  beads  amongst  the  crowd.  I  shouted  for 
Kapumari,  a  sturdy  young  fellow  whom  I  knew.  He 
fought  his  way  through  the  crowd.  I  gave  him  a  piece 
of  hoop-iron,  and,  with  the  help  of  our  friendly  chiefs, 
he  forced  the  crowd  back,  calling  on  us  to  be  quick  and 
get  away. 

'  So  into  the  water  we  waded,  the  chiefs  calling  out, 
"  Go  quick  ;  go  quick !  "  We  got  on  board ;  but  our 
Chinamen  were  flustered,  and  very  nearly  let  the  boat 
drift  broadside  on  the  beach.  But  with  poles  and  oars 
we  got  her  round  and  off  shore,  and  sails  set,  and 
then  away  we  went  for  Kerepunu.  Before  changing 
clothes  we  thanked  God  our  Father  for  His  protection 
and  care  over  us.  We  felt  that  He  alone  had  saved  us. 
He  had  unsettled  their  thoughts  as  to  who  should  be 
killed  first,  and  where,  and  when ;  and  it  was  He  Who 
gave  us  friends. 


'All  Strangers  there  are  killed*         139 

c  Why  did  they  want  to  kill  us  ?  Not  merely  for  the 
contents  of  the  small  satchel  I  carried.  I  believe  it  was 
revenge.  Some  years  ago  a  vessel  called  at  Aroma. 
Some  trading  for  food  was  done  on  board;  and  some 
thieving  went  on.  Food  was  sold  twice  over ;  revolvers 
and  rifles  were  brought  out ;  the  natives  were  fired  on, 
several  were  wounded,  and  very  likely  some  were  killed. 
Natives  on  the  beach  were  fired  upon,  and  some  were 
wounded  who  were  hiding  in  the  bush  close  by.  We 
land— the  first  foreigners  to  visit  them  after  this  deed  of 
violence — and  they  resolve  that  on  us  they  will  be 
revenged.  What  a  pity  that  those  foreigners  who  fire 
on  the  natives  do  not  return  the  following  week,  and  so 
receive  their  deserts !  The  wretches  steer  clear  of  such 
parts. 

'A  week  later  a  chief  from  Maopa  came  with  a  Kerepunu 
chief  to  see  me.  I  recognized  him  as  the  one  who 
kept  back  the  crowd  at  Aroma,  and  opened  the  way  for 
me  to  get  into  the  water,  and  so  into  the  boat.  He  said 
that  from  the  moment  of  our  landing  in  the  morning 
they  had  determined  to  kill  us,  but  the  suitable  time  did 
not  arrive.  When  we  arrived  at  a  place  where  some 
large  canoes  from  Toulon  and  Daunai  were  lying,  it 
was  arranged  by  the  Aroma  people  and  those  from  the 
canoes  that  the  natives  of  Aroma  should  kill  us  and  have 
all  our  property  they  could  get ;  and  that  those  from  the 
canoes  should  have  our  bodies  to  eat.  He  said  the 
natives  kept  putting  it  off,  until,  finally,  they  decided 
the  deed  should  be  done  at  the  boat,  then  they  would 
get  boat  also  and  all  its  contents,  but  he  and  two  other 
chiefs  arrived  just  in  time.  He  said  it  was  not  revenge. 
Turning  to  the  Kerepunu  man  with  him  he  remarked, 
"  You  know  Aroma  from  of  old,  and  how  all  strangers 
visiting  there  are  killed." ' 


CHAPTER   IX 

LIFE  IN  THE  TREE-TOPS 

IN  its  savage  state  every  village  in  New  Guinea  was 
the  enemy  of  every  other  village.  Hence  along  the 
coast  at  Port  Moresby  and  Tupuselei  and  elsewhere 
houses  were  built  on  piles  out  in  the  sea,  so  that  it  was 
not  easy  for  enemies  to  approach  and  attack  them.  In 
the  villages  on  the  mainland  the  houses  were  often  built 
in  the  tops  of  the  trees,  for  the  same  reason,  that  it  might 
be  easy  to  defend  themselves  and  hard  for  enemies  to 
attack  them.  Chalmers  early  in  his  wanderings  came 
upon  some  of  these  villages  and  their  strange  dwellings. 

On  his  arrival  at  Port  Moresby  in  1877  he  took  a  long 
w  alk  inland  and  visited  one  of  these  tree  villages. 

'  We  were  now  about  1,100  feet  above  the  sea-level. 
We  were  surprised  to  see  their  houses  built  on  the 
highest  tree-tops  they  could  find  on  the  top  of  the  ridge. 
One  of  the  teachers  remarked,  "  Queer  fellows  these ; 
not  only  do  they  live  on  the  mountain  tops,  but  they 
must  select  the  highest  trees  they  can  find  for  their 
houses."  We  were  very  soon  made  friends,  and  the 
natives  seemed  at  ease.  Some  of  them  were  smoking 
tobacco,  and  others  chewing  betel- nuts.  I  changed  my 
shirt,  and  when  those  near  me  saw  my  white  skin  they 
raised  a  shout  of  surprise  that  soon  brought  all  the 
others  round  me.  Bartering  soon  began — taro,  sugar- 
cane, sweet  yams,  and  water  were  got  in  exchange  for 
tobacco,  beads,  and  cloth, 


Houses  on  High  Trees  141 

1  After  resting  about  two  hours,  we  proceeded  to  the 
next  village,  five  miles  further  along  the  ridge.  Some 
of  our  party  were  too  tired  to  accompany  us ;  they  re- 
mained where  we  expected  to  camp  for  the  night.  After 
walking  some  miles  we  came  unexpectedly  on  some 
natives.  As  soon  as  they  saw  us  they  rushed  for  their 
spears,  and  seemed  determined  to  dispute  our  way.  By 
a  number  of  signs — by  touching  our  chins  with  our  right 
hands  and  in  other  ways — we  made  them  understand  that 
we  were  not  foes,  and  they  soon  became  friendly.  They 
had  their  faces  blackened  with  soot,  plumbago,  and  gum, 
and  then  sprinkled  over  with  white  ;  and  their  mouths 
and  teeth  were  in  a  terrible  mess  from  chewing  the  betel- 
nut.  On  our  leaving  them,  they  shouted  on  to  the  next 
village.  An  old  man  lay  outside  on  the  platform  of  the 
next  house  we  came  to.  He  looked  terribly  frightened 
as  we  approached  him,  but  as,  instead  of  injuring  him, 
we  gave  him  a  present,  he  soon  rallied  and  got  us  water 
to  drink.  By  and  by  a  few  gathered  round.  We  under- 
stood them  to  say  the  most  of  the  people  were  away  on 
the  plains  hunting  for  wallabies.  .  .  . 

'  For  nearly  six  hours  we  have  been  travelling  with  our 
bags,  and  I  can  honestly  say  I  feel  tired.  We  are  now 
at  a  new  village — the  houses  just  going  up — on  the  top 
of  the  high  green  hill  in  front  of  Munikahila,  overlooking 
the  J^ja  Moumiri  valley.  The  village  is  named  Keni- 
numu,  and  consists  of  four  houses  at  present,  two  on 
high  trees  and  two  on  high  rocks.  We  have  pitched  our 
tent  close  by,  and  intend  resting  until  Monday,  when  we 
hope  to  start  for  the  plain — a  very  fine  country,  but  no 
natives.  This  part  of  the  plain  is  dry  and  barren,  with 
stunted  gum-trees.  A  party  met  us  when  near  the 
village,  and  a  woman  with  a  child  on  her  shoulder,  I 
suppose  seeing  me  look  tired,  insisted  on  my  giving  her 


142  Life  in  the  Trec^tops 

my  bag.  I  looked  at  the  child,  and  wondered  how  she 
was  going  to  manage,  but  that  was  soon  arranged  ;  she 
made  the  child  sit  on  her  left  shoulder,  holding  her  by 
the  hair ;  then  she  took  my  bundle,  and  away  she  went. 
Some  young  men  have  come  in  from  one  of  the  districts 
we  wish  to  visit,  and  I  hope  to  keep  them  until  we  leave ; 
it  will  be  a  help  and  of  great  value  as  an  introduction  at 
this  time  of  trouble.  We  are  1,440  feet  above  sea-level.' 

On  a  later  trip  Tamate  writes :  '  Before  we  came  here 
the  women  and  children  slept  in  the  bush  at  night,  the 
men  in  the  village.  They  are  at  enmity  with  the  natives 
on  the  flat  across  the  ravine,  and  it  seems  that  sometimes 
they  get  a  night  visit,  and  then  a  man  is  murdered.  For 
the  last  two  nights  the  women  have  been  in  the  village, 
but  every  sound  heard  causes  a  shout.  Last  night,  when 
just  getting  off,  they  came  rushing  up  to  our  house,  and 
calling  on  us  to  get  up  with  our  guns,  as  their  enemies 
were  coming.  "  Only  fire  off  a  gun,  and  it  will  frighten 
them  away."  We  told  them  to  go  and  sleep,  and  not  be 
afraid. 

'  The  state  of  fear  of  one  another  in  which  the  savage 
lives  is  truly  pitiful.  To  him  every  stranger  is  one  who 
seeks  his  life ;  and  this  indeed  is  true  of  every  other 
savage.  The  falling  of  a  dry  leaf  at  night,  the  tread  of 
a  pig,  or  the  passage  of  a  bird  over  his  house,  all  these 
sounds  rouse  the  savage,  and  he  trembles  at  them  with 
fear  for  his  life. 

'  Here,  as  in  all  other  parts  of  New  Guinea,  it  is  not 
the  most  powerful  man  who  fights  and  kills  the  most ; 
but  the  bulk  of  the  crimes  are  the  work  of  abominable 
little  sneaks,  who  are  treacherous  and  crafty  in  the 
extreme.  • 

'  The  village  in  which  we  are  now  is  built  on  the  ridge, 
the  chief's  house  right  on  the  high  end  and  looking  east,. 


A  Native  Sorcerer  143 

our  small  house  close  by  on  the  side  of  the  others,  on 
each  side  leaving  a  pathway  in  the  centre.  At  the  very 
end  of  the  ridge  is  a  house  on  a  very  high  tree,  used  as 
a  look-out  house  and  a  refuge  for  women  and  children 
in  case  of  attack.  There  are  quite  a  number  of  tree- 
houses  in  the  various  villages  on  the  ridges  seen  from 
here. 

'  A  number  of  strangers  slept,  or  rather  made  a  noise 
all  night  in  houses  close  by,  and  amongst  them  was  a 
spiritist,  whose  hideous  singing  and  chanting  of  reve- 
lations was  enough  to  drive  one  frantic.  We  tried  to 
quiet  him,  but  it  was  of  no  use — silenced  he  would  not 
be.  A  man  sitting  by  us  when  having  morning  tea 
asked  for  some  of  the  salt  we  were  using.  We  told  him 
it  was  not  salt,  but  sugar.  He  insisted  that  it  was  salt, 
and  we  gave  him  some  on  his  taro.  He  began  eating, 
and  the  look  of  disgust  on  his  face  was  worth  seeing. 
He  rose  up,  went  out,  spat  out  what  he  had  in  his 
mouth,  and  threw  the  remainder  away. 

'  We  cannot  get  the  natives  to  move ;  they  say  they 
are  tired,  and  will  have  to  rest  until  to-morrow  morning, 
and  that  they  are  also  afraid  of  their  enemies.  The 
excitement  is  great,  but  what  it  all  means  is  difficult  for 
us  to  say.  At  noon  all  the  men  cleared  out  with  spears, 
clubs,  and  shields,  two  men  having  been  killed  in  a 
village  near.  They  have  gone  to  get  hold  of  the 
murderers  if  they  can.  Dressed  in  their  feathers  and 
fighting  gear,  with  faces  streaked,  they  do  certainly  look 
ugly.  After  being  away  some  time  they  returned, 
saying  the  enemy  had  gone  off  to  the  back  mountains.' 

In  1878  Tamate  walked  right  across  the  eastern  end 
of  New  Guinea,  being  thus  doubtless  the  first  white  man 
who  had  ever  accomplished  the  feat.  He  came  upon 
many  new  and  novel  experiences  in  the  course  of  this 


144  Life  in  the  Tree^tops 

hard  and  adventurous  journey,  one  or  two  of  which  we 
quote  as  samples  of  the  whole. 

'In  October,  1880,  I  started  to  visit  Doura,  a  district 
near  the  base  of  Mount  Owen  Stanley,  but  on  arriving  at 
Manumanu,  in  Redscar  Bay,  I  was  informed  that  the  day 
before  a  party  of  coast  natives  had  gone  up  the  river 
and  surprised  the  nearest  village,  killing  twenty,  and 
taking  away  everything  they  could  carry.  It  would 
be  useless  for  us  to  go  then,  as  the  natives  of  the  other 
villages  would  have  fled  to  the  mountains,  and  would  not 
return  for  some  time ;  so  I  determined  we  should  visit 
Naara,  the  district  around  Cape  Suckling.  A  few  miles 
east  of  Cape  Suckling  there  is  a  small  salt-water  creek, 
in  which  we  left  our  boat,  and  walked  to  the  village  of 
Tobokau,  ten  miles  inland. 

'The  country  is  very  swampy  near  the  coast,  but 
between  the  swamp  and  the  hills  is  very  fine,  level 
country.  The  village  is  on  one  of  the  ridges,  150  feet 
above  sea-level,  with  low,  thick  scrub  all  round ;  for  that 
part  of  New  Guinea  it  is  a  large  village.  Houses 
belonging  to  one  family  adjoin,  with  one  verandah 
covered  over.  A  man  with  more  wives  than  one  has 
for  each  wife  a  separate  house.  Food,  children,  house 
duties,  planting,  are  all  distinct.  Sometimes  the  wives 
are  very  friendly,  and  assist  one  another  in  planting  and 
cooking,  but  more  generally  the  opposite,  and  then  the 
poor  husband  wishes  their  houses  were  in  different 
villages,  instead  of  being  close  by  one  another  with  one 
verandah.  A  native  asked  me  if  I  knew  he  once  had 
two  wives,  and  on  my  replying  I  was  not  aware  of  it, 
he  said,  "  Yes,  I  had  two  wives ;  but  they  nearly  broke 
my  heart.  It  was  a  continuous  quarrel,  so  I  sent  one 
about  her  business,  telling  her  she  must  never  appear 
again  in  my  house.  Lately  «she  sent  to  me  for  a  little 


Surprised  while  Feasting  145 

tobacco,  and  to  know  if  I  would  have  her  back.  I  gave 
no  tobacco,  and  to  have  her  back  I  know  better  than 
that." 

4  They  were  having  a  grand  feast  when  we  entered  the 
village.  Some  were  dancing,  others  were  cutting  up 
pigs,  so  that  we  had  come  right  into  the  village  before 
they  noticed  us.  On  seeing  us  the  men  rushed  for  their 
arms,  and  the  women  and  children  climbed  up  on  to  the 
verandahs  of  their  huts  much  quicker  than  they  generally 
do.  But  when  they  knew  who  we  were,  they  put  down 
their  arms,  and  a  crowd  gathered  round  us.  Some  were 
covered  with  blood  from  pig-cutting,  others  were  dressed 
regardless  of  expense.  There  were  head-dresses  of 
many  shapes,  and  a  few  had  hats  seven  feet  high,  built 
upon  a  wooden  frame,  one  mass  of  feathers  and  plumes. 
Some  had  large  pieces  of  native  cloth,  beautifully  marked, 
like  tartan  ;  from  others,  long  streamers  of  the  pandanus 
leaf  hung  from  the  neck,  arms,  and  legs ;  and  nearly  all 
had  necklaces,  armlets,  and  anklets  made  of  shells. 

'About  three  miles  further  inland  is  Gerise,  nine 
hundred  feet  above  sea-level,  with  a  population  of 
about  two  hundred.  They  were  having  a  grand  feast 
when  we  arrived,  and  insisted  on  our  remaining  to  see 
the  opening  dance.  At  the  opposite  end  of  the  village 
we  heard  drumming,  and  soon  four  girls,  beautifully 
tattooed,  came  on  dancing,  followed  by  thirty  men 
drumming  and  dancing,  and  two  more  girls  brought  up 
the  rear.  The  dancing  was  wild  and  the  drumming 
noisy.  These  girls  were  being  publicly  introduced  into 
society.  They  were  skilfully  dressed  with  feathers  and 
shells,  and  short  dress  petticoats,  made  for  the  occasion. 
It  was  amusing  to  see  the  anxiety  of  the  female  relatives 
that  the  dress  and  every  motion  should  be  as  correct  as 
possible. 

K 


146  Life  in  the  Tree^tops 

*  In  the  centre  of  the  village  they  had  what  I  call  a 
gigantic  Christmas-tree,  about  seventy-five  feet  high,  and 
branches  in  proportion,  laden  with  cocoanuts,  betel-nuts, 
bananas,and  yams, and  numerous  pandanus-leaf  streamers, 
croton  leaves  and  flowers  all  hung  about.  In  front  of 
the  houses  were  collections  of  food,  and  every  verandah 
was  nicely  decorated  with  flowers,  variegated  leaves,  and 
food.  A  great  many  natives,  all  armed,  had  come  in 
from  various  districts,  and  many  that  we  met  in  our  last 
long  tramp  came  to  touch  chins. 

'  All  up  the  Laroki  and  in  the  creek  and  lagoons  the 
alligators  were  very  numerous.  Beautiful  lilies,  tinted 
blue  and  white,  adorned  the  fever-stinking  swamp. 
Paddling,  poling,  and  wading  brought  us  about  five 
o'clock  to  the  village — a  miserable  locality  in  very 
truth.  We  were  given  the  dubu l — the  sacred  place  or 
platform — to  sleep  on.  It  is  about  twenty  feet  from  the 
ground,  the  posts  are  carved,  and  on  each  side  are 
representations  of  men,  women,  and  alligators,  roughly 
done,  and  showing  very  little  taste.  The  people  were 
exceedingly  kind,  giving  us  food  cooked  and  uncooked. 
Shooting  ducks  on  the  way  up  frightened  them  much, 
but  having  heard  I  was  likely  to  be  about  soon,  some 
thought  they  would  risk  coming  down  in  their  double 
canoe  and  have  a  look,  others  were  rushing  through 
the  bush  with  their  arms.  On  seeing  us,  and  learning 
who  we  were  and  what  we  wanted,  they  shouted  to  the 
village,  so  that  on  our  landing  we  were  received  as 
friends. 

4  Stinking  swamps  were  all  round  us,and  the  mosquitoes 

1  Most  New  Guinea  villages  possess  a  dubu  or  sacred  place. 
Some  of  them  are  immense  buildings.  Only  men  are  allowed  to 
enter,  and  prior  to  certain  initiation  ceremonies  which  many  of  the 
tribes  practise  the  men  live  in  the  dubu  for  a  considerable  time. 
These  dubus  are  often  referred  to  in  later  chapters. 


Gladness  at  Tamate's  Visit  147 

so  numerous  that  even  their  singing  outside  of  the  net 
prevented  sleep.  The  boards  on  the  sacred  place  were 
so  uneven  that  they  could  not  be  spoken  of  as  "  very 
comfortable,"  and  between  them  the  mosquitoes  found 
me  out.  It  was  a  most  romantic  night ;  clear  moonlight, 
beautiful  lilies,  tropical  forests  with  gigantic  trees ;  sleep- 
ing on  a  platform  twenty  feet  high,  with  coarsely -carved 
figures  and  pigs'  jaws  fastened  as  pegs,  on  which  we 
hung  our  things,  mosquitoes  singing  outside  your  net, 
and  rascally  ones  biting  you  inside ;  men,  women,  and 
children  coughing,  and  the  last,  also,  crying ;  and  ugly 
dingoes  collected  underneath,  with  evil  designs,  and 
howling  frightfully. 

*  The  district  is  called  Lariva,  and  comprises  eighteen 
villages,  with  fine  rich  land  well  watered.  I  always 
understood  that  cocoanuts  only  grew  on  the  coast,  and 
never  far  away  from  the  sea,  but  here  there  were 
splendid  groves  of  healthy  trees  and  plenty  of  good 
large  nuts  on  them. 

'We  had  not  long  to  wait  before  there  was  a  great 
commotion,  much  conch-shell  blowing,  and  shouting  of 
men,  women,  and  children,  and  then  a  crowd  approached 
us  carrying  two  pigs  and  quantities  of  yams,  taro,  sugar- 
cane, and  bananas.  We  were  sitting  on  the  platform  in 
front  of  the  house,  and  they  came  near.  The  poles  on 
which  the  pigs  were  fastened  were  supported  by  cross 
sticks  and  the  food  was  placed  close  by.  One  who  had 
been  told  off  to  make  the  presentation  did  so  in  a  short, 
serious  speech,  saying  how  glad  they  were  we  had  come, 
and  how  full  of  wonder  they  all  were  at  our  appearance. 
They  had  heard  of  us  from  some  of  their  friends  who 
had  seen  us,  but  they  doubted  much  what  had  been  told 
them.  Now  they  saw  for  themselves,  and  could  only 
wonder. 

K  2 


148  Life  in  the  Tree^tops 

*  The  old  chief  then  took  possession,  and  gave  orders 
to  our  young1  men  to  spear,  clean,  and  cut  up  the  pigs ; 
and  this  was  soon  done.  Earthenware  pots  were  brought 
out,  and  fires  were  soon  made  all  round.  It  was  a  grand 
time,  and  all  were  happy.  During  the  cooking  of  the 
food  we  were  the  centre  of  attraction,  and  men,  women, 
and  children  crowded  round.  Our  clothes,  legs,  arms, 
and  chest  were  carefully  examined.  Our  boots  they 
could  not  understand,  and  amongst  themselves  they 
discussed  the  question  whether  they  were  really  part  of 
our  skin  or  not. 

4  The  people  are  of  the  same  tribe  as  those  on  the 
coast ;  they  wear  the  same  things,  speak  a  dialect  of  the 
same  language,  build  the  same  kind  of  houses,  and  bury 
their  dead  in  the  same  manner.  All  day  long  we  were 
interviewed,  touched,  rubbed,  admired,  and  in  the  evening 
a  bath  was  considered  necessary.  Our  singing  was 
thoroughly  appreciated,  and  I  do  not  suppose  they  will 
soon  forget  the  way  in  which  we  sang  "Auld  Lang- 
Syne,"  or,  at  all  events,  the  joining  of  hands.  We  had 
a  large  congregation  at  our  evening  service,  when 
Quaiani  explained  as  much  as  he  could  to  them. 

'  It  is  often  said,  "  Why  not  leave  the  savages  alone  in 
their  virgin  glory  ?  only  then  are  they  truly  happy." 
How  little  those  who  so  speak  and  write  know  what 
savage  life  is!  A  savage  seldom  sleeps  well  at  night. 
He  fears  ghosts  and  hobgoblins;  these  midnight 
wanderers  cause  him  much  alarm,  as  they  are  heard 
in  falling  leaves,  chirping  lizards,  or  disturbed  birds 
singing;  but,  besides  these,  there  are  embodied  spirits 
that  he  has  good  cause  to  fear,  and  especially  at  that 
uncanny  hour  between  the  morning  star  and  glimmering 
light  of  the  approaching  lord  of  day,  the  hour  of 
yawning  and  arm-stretching,  when  the  awakening  pipe 


A  Man  from  Lcse  murdered  149 

is  lighted  and  the  first  smoke  of  the  day  is  enjoyed. 
The  following  narrative  explains  what  I  mean. 

*  Paitana  is  a  village  up  one  of  the  creeks  from  Hall 
Sound,    near    Yule    Island,  surrounded    by    mangrove 
swamps;    but  in  the   village,  cocoanut,  betel-nut,  and 
bread-fruit  grow  luxuriantly.     The  natives  have  always 
been  looked  upon   as  treacherous,  but  having  visited 
them  some  time  ago  it  was  hoped  they  would  become 
more  friendly.    On  my  return  to  Yule  Island  I  found 
that  on  my  previous  visit  some  of  the  natives  had  formed 
a  plan  to  get  my  head,  and  I  remember  many  things 
that  looked  very  suspicious   on  that  occasion.     Some 
years  ago  two  foreigners  were  killed  in  Hall  Sound  by 
the  Paitana  natives.    They  had  also  killed  people  from 
Delena,  Maiva,  and  other  villages,  but  the  climax  was 
reached  when  they  killed  a  man  from  Lese  who  was 
visiting  them  as  a  friend.    When  the  news  of  the  murder 
reached    the  Lese    people,    they   determined    to    have 
revenge,  but  resolved  to  wait  until  the  planting  season 
was  over. 

*  For  a  long  while  the  Paitana  natives  lived  away  inland 
towards  the  hills,  but  thinking  Lese  had  in  the  meantime 
given  up  all  idea  of  "  payment,"  they  returned  to  their  old 
village.    During  all  that  time  the  Lese  natives  were  pre- 
paring war  canoes,  and  keeping  very  quiet  as  to  the 
time  of  their  attack ;  but  it  came  at  last,  and  a  terrible 
payment  it  was.     Paitana,  in  her  fancied  security  far  up 
a  creek,  to  be  reached  only  by  forcing  a  way  through 
very  long  grass,  and  surrounded  by  thick  mangrove 
bush,  little  dreamt  of  what  the  morning  would  yield. 

*  Once,  when  visiting  Motumotu,  we  slept  in  our  boat 
one  night  between  Lese  and  the  former.     I  was  very 
tired,  and  had  been  over  a  week  knocking  about  in  the 
boats.    About  two  a.m.  I  was  awakened  by  shouting, 


150  Life  in  the  Tree^tops 

and  on  looking  over  the  gunwale  saw  to  my  astonish- 
ment a  fully  equipped  war  canoe.  Forty  men  are  carried 
in  each  canoe,  with  paddles,  and  a  number  of  men  stand 
on  the  centre  platform  with  bows  and  arrows.  After 
hearing  who  we  were,  we  soon  became  friends  and 
exchanged  presents.  The  war  canoe  is  made  up  of  two 
very  long  canoes  lashed  together  by  long  poles,  with 
a  platform  between. 

4  Twenty- four  of  these  canoes  were  got  ready  by  Lese 
and  started.  Pulling  all  night,  they  arrived  on  the 
south-west  side  of  Yule  Island  before  daybreak,  and  there 
they  remained  until  the  following  night.  After  sunset, 
and  when  quite  dark,  they  pulled  for  the  creek,  where 
they  met  a  canoe  with  a  man  and  two  women  belonging 
to  Lolo  in  it.  They  made  the  man  prisoner,  saying  they 
did  not  mean  to  kill  him,  but  that  to  save  his  own  life 
and  that  of  the  women  he  must  become  their  guide  to 
Paitana.  To  that  he  consented,  and  they  allowed  the 
women  to  depart.  He  led  them  up  the  creek,  through 
the  swamps,  long  grass,  bush,  and  close  to  the  village, 
when  they  allowed  him  to  return. 

4  They  then  surrounded  the  village,  sending  a  strong 
party  into  the  main  street.  All  sat  down  quietly  and 
waited  for  a  little  more  light.  The  morning  star  was 
up,  and  soon  there  was  light  enough  for  their  dreadful 
work.  A  native  awoke,  lit  his  pipe,  had  a  smoke,  a 
yawn,  and  a  stretch,  looked  out  and  saw  people  in  the 
village.  He  called  out — 

44  Who  are  you  ? " 

"  We  are  Leseans  come  to  pay  for  our  friend  you 
murdered.  Long  have  we  waited  to  see  you  paid  for 
your  murdering  propensities,  but  all  seem  afraid.  You 
have  murdered  one  of  us,  and  now  we  shall  see." 

'  In  other  houses  the  hastily  aroused  natives  were  in 


SAVAGE    LIFE   IN    THE    TREE-TOPS 


Massacre  at  Paitana  151 

a  state  of  confusion,  the  arrows  began  to  fly  in  showers, 
and  men,  women,  and  children  were  wounded  in  their 
houses.  Many  fleeing  were  caught  and  clubbed,  or  had 
their  brains  beaten  out  with  clubs.  Many  remained  in 
their  houses,  hoping  thus  to  escape  the  general  carnage. 
The  houses  were  entered  and  everything  valuable  carried 
away,  and  then  the  whole  was  set  in  a  blaze,  when  the 
dead,  those  dying  from  wounds,  and  the  living  were  all 
burnt  in  the  one  great  fire.  Men,  women,  and  children 
all  suffered;  mercy  was  shown  to  none.  I  asked  a 
native  of  Lese  who  had  managed  to  escape  how  many 
were  killed.  He  said  it  was  impossible  to  tell  the 
number  of  the  dead,  but  only  ten  who  slept  in  the  village 
that  night  escaped. 

4  Flushed  with  victory  and  weighted  with  loot,  the 
Leseans  returned  to  their  canoes,  pulled  down  the  creek 
and  along  the  coast,  with  horns  blowing  and  men  and 
women  dancing  and  singing  on  the  platforms  of  the 
canoes.  Mercy  the  savage  does  not  know ;  but  still  he 
can  appreciate  it  when  extended  to  himself. 

*  While  staying  at  Maiva,  where  the  few  who  escaped 
lived,  a  child  six  years  old  was  brought  to  me  as  a 
Paitana  child.     In  the  first  scrimmage  he  got  through 
the  surrounding  army  unnoticed,  and  ran  away  into  the 
bush,  where  he  remained  until  he  heard  the  Leseans 
departing.     Then  he  returned  to  the  village  to  look  for 
his  mother,  brothers,  and  sisters.     He  found  the  dead 
charred  bodies  of  them  all.     A  man  told  me  that  little 
children  were  caught  by  the  feet  and  dashed  against  the 
cocoanut-trees. 

*  Savage  life  is  not  the  joyous  hilarity  that  many  writers 
would  lead  us  to  understand.     It  is  not  all  the  happy 
laugh,  the  feast,  and  the  dance.     There  are  often  seasons 
when  communities  are  scattered,  hiding  in  large  trees,  in 


152  Life  in  the  Tree^tops 

caves,  under  rocks,  in  other  villages,  and  far  away  from 
their  own.  Inland  from  Port  Moresby,  a  large  hunting- 
party  camping  in  a  cave  were  smoked  out  by  their 
enemies  and  all  killed  but  one.  When  travelling  inland, 
we  found  the  Makapili  tribe  in  terrible  weather  living  in 
the  bush,  under  shelving  rocks,  among  the  long  grass, 
and  in  hollow  trees. 

'  At  Port  Moresby  they  say  that  since  the  mission  came 
for  the  first  time  they  can  sleep  in  peace,  and  that  as 
they  can  trust  the  peace  of  God's  Word  they  mean  to 
keep  it.  Having  been  themselves  pirates,  robbers,  and 
murderers,  they  might  well  fear  others. 

'  Some  time  ago  the  large  tribe  of  Saroa  came  over  the 
hills  in  strong  battle  array,  and  in  the  early  morning 
ascended  the  Manukolo  hills,  surrounded  the  villages, 
killed  men,  women,  and  children,  old  and  young,  from 
the  poor  old  grey-headed  sire  to  the  infant  in  arms. 
About  forty  got  away  to  Kaile,  but  soon  had  to  leave, 
as  Saroa  threatened  to  burn  Kaile  if  they  continued  to 
harbour  the  fugitives.  They  pleaded  for  peace,  but  in 
vain  ;  Saroa  said  all  must  die.  The  quarrel  began  about 
a  pig. 

'  And  so  it  has  been  all  along  the  coast  of  New  Guinea 
for  ages  past.  But  a  better  day  is  dawning.  We  are 
doing  better  than  leave  the  fine,  active,  intelligent  New 
Guinea  natives  to  their  "  happy  "  state  of  savage  life. 
The  Gospel  is  pre-eminently  to  them  a  Gospel  of  peace, 
and  it  is  only  during  the  last  ten  years  that  the  in- 
habitants of  New  Guinea  have  begun  to  know  what  real 
happiness  is.' 


CHAPTER    X 

A  CRUEL  REVENGE 

TAMATE  in  the  year  1890  visited  Samoa.  While 
there  he  stayed  at  the  Malua  Institution,  where  many 
young  Samoans  are  trained  who  afterwards  become 
evangelists  in  New  Guinea  and  in  outlying  islands  in 
the  vast  Pacific  Ocean.  All  the  students  were  gathered 
together  to  be  addressed  by  the  veteran  missionary.  As 
a  warning  of  what  terrible  consequences  might  follow 
a  careless  or  a  selfish  word  and  deed,  he  told  them  the 
following  story  : — 'The  Rarotongan  teacher's  wife  at  Kalo 
was  visited  by  the  young  wife  of  the  chief.  This  woman 
had  been  rather  troublesome  begging  for  tobacco  and 
other  things.  The  Rarotongan  woman,  going  out  upon 
the  verandah  of  the  house  (which  was  elevated  above 
the  ground  as  such  houses  are  in  New  Guinea)  where 
the  New  Guinea  woman  was  standing,  gave  her  a  push, 
and  the  woman  fell  down  from  the  verandah  on  to  the 
ground  below.  She  was  not  hurt  at  all,  but  she  went 
home,  and  when  her  husband  came  he  found  her  sulking 
in  the  house.  Without  replying  to  his  questions  in 
words,  she  pointed  to  the  spears  and  arrows  in  the 
roof  of  the  house,  and  with  a  taunt  ordered  him  to 
avenge  the  insult  she  had  suffered  by  killing  the  strange 
teachers.  As  he  gathered  his  young  men  together  a 
party  of  teachers  landed,  who  were  calling  at  Kalo 
for  their  colleague,  intending  to  take  him  and  his  wife 
with  them  to  a  meeting  of  the  mission  or  district  at 


154  A  Cruel  Revenge 

Port  Moresby.'  This  is  what  happened  in  consequence 
of  that  careless  action  on  the  part  of  the  teacher's  wife. 

'On  March  7,  1881,  Taria,  the  native  teacher  of 
Hula,  along  with  five  Hula  boys,  went  in  a  boat  to 
Kalo  and  Kerepunu,  to  bring  the  teachers  and  their 
families  to  Hula,  on  account  of  the  ill  health  of  some 
of  the  party.  He  called  at  Kalo  on  the  way  thither, 
and  told  the  teacher  there  that  he  would  call  for  him 
on  the  return  journey.  At  Kerepunu  he  took  on  board 
a  teacher  there  whose  name  was  Anederea,  his  wife 
and  two  children,  and  a  native  youth.  The  party  then 
proceeded  to  Kalo.  During  the  interval  of  waiting 
there  the  chief  and  pretended  friend  of  the  Kalo  teacher 
got  into  the  boat  for  a  chat.  On  the  arrival  of  the  Kalo 
teacher,  along  with  his  wife  and  two  children,  the  chief 
stepped  out  of  the  boat.  This  was  the  prearranged 
signal  for  attack  to  the  crowds  assembled  on  the  bank. 

'  At  the  outset  the  Kalo  chief  ordered  his  followers  not 
to  injure  the  Hula  and  Kerepunu  boys ;  but  this  order 
did  not  prevent  two  of  the  former  being  killed.  The 
other  four  boys  escaped  by  swimming  the  river.  The 
mission  party  were  so  cooped  up  in  the  boat,  and  spears 
flew  so  thickly  and  fast,  that  resistance  and  escape  were 
alike  impossible.  Taria  resisted  for  a  time,  but  a  fourth 
spear  put  an  end  to  his  life.  The  others  were  killed 
with  little  trouble.  A  single  spear  slew  both  mother 
and  babe  in  the  case  of  both  women.  The  only  bodies 
recovered  were  those  of  the  Kerepunu  teacher's  wife  and 
her  babe ;  the  natives  of  Hula  and  Kerepunu  severally 
interred  the  two  bodies.  The  rest  of  the  bodies  became 
a  prey  to  the  alligators.  For  the  two  Hula  boys  who 
were  slain  speedy  compensation  was  made  by  the  Kalo 
people.  The  whaleboat,  too,  was  recovered  by  the 
Hula  natives. 


Caring  for  the  Native  Teachers        155 

*  The  sad  intelligence  of  this  cruel  deed  reached  Port 
Moresby  just  as  the  schooner  "  Harriet "  was  about 
to  leave  for  Thursday  Island,  and  the  "  Mayri  "  about  to 
take  me  to  Hula,  whilst  a  party  of  foreigners  were 
leaving  for  the  East  End.  The  news,  of  course,  upset 
all  arrangements,  and,  after  the  first  moments  of  excite- 
ment were  over,  our  next  concern  was  about  the  safety 
of  the  two  Aroma  teachers.  With  as  little  delay  as 
possible,  but  with  forebodings  of  coming  evil,  a  large 
party  of  us  left  for  Aroma.  We  reached  Aroma,  and 
whilst  our  three  boats  lay  off  a  little,  so  as  not  to  arouse 
suspicion,  a  teacher  and  myself  went  ashore.  With 
devout  gratitude  I  heard  that  both  teachers  and  natives 
were  ignorant  of  the  massacre.  In  less  than  an  hour 
the  two  teachers  and  their  families  were  safely  ensconced 
in  their  whaleboat,  taking  along  with  them  but  a  mini- 
mum of  their  property,  according  to  the  orders  given. 
By  these  means  the  chiefs  and  natives  of  Aroma  were 
left  in  utter  ignorance  as  to  the  cause  of  our  erratic 
movements,  nor  did  they  seem  to  suspect  anything. 

4  At  Kerepunu  we  experienced  considerable  noise  and 
worry.  Here,  too,  we  judged  it  prudent  to  remove 
very  little  belonging  to  the  deceased  teacher.  At  Hula 
my  house  had  been  entered,  but  the  few  things  stolen 
were  mostly  returned.  Here,  too,  we  have  left  goods, 
until  some  definite  course  be  decided  upon.  Strange 
to  say,  at  Hula,  where  we  expected  the  least  trouble 
and  danger,  there  we  had  the  greatest ;  indeed,  on  one 
or  two  occasions  affairs  assumed  a  rather  serious  aspect. 
The  main  idea  present  in  the  native  mind  was  to  take 
advantage  of  us  in  our  weakness  and  sorrow.  After 
a  very  brief  stay  at  Hula,  we  returned  to  Port  Moresby. 

'  I  should  have  visited  Kalo  at  once,  but  was  afraid  of 
compromising  the  mission,  as  it  was  possible  that  the 


156  A  Cruel  Revenge 

government  would  at  once  take  steps  to  punish  the 
natives  for  the  outrage.  And  this  in  the  end  proved 
to  be  the  case. 

'  The  native  is  very  impulsive,  and  often  commits  deeds 
for  which  he  is  afterwards  sorry.  Much  of  the  same 
impulse  is  noticeable  in  white  men,  and  deeds  are  often 
committed  under  the  influence  of  excitement  or  passion 
for  which  they  also  are  afterwards  very  sorry.  Some  of 
those  who  have  been  murdered  on  the  New  Guinea  coast 
brought  about  their  own  destruction ;  others  suffered 
for  the  misdeeds  of  white  men,  and  a  few  because  of  the 
cupidity  of  the  native.  In  every  case  the  native  has 
been  more  or  less  punished,  but  in  none  to  such  advan- 
tage as  at  Kalo. 

4  After  the  Kalo  massacre  a  man-of-war  came  to  make 
inquiries,  so  as  to  report  to  the  commodore  of  the 
station.  We  decidedly  objected  to  any  interference,  and 
opposed  any  punishment  of  the  Kalo  natives,  and,  as 
a  mission,  refused  to  report  on  the  subject.  The  captain 
was  persistent,  saying  his  instructions  were  to  make 
inquiries,  and  report;  which  he  did.  A  few  months 
afterwards  he  returned,  saying  that  the  commodore 
had  decided  to  make  an  example  of  Kalo,  so  as  to 
put  a  stop  for  the  future  to  these  coast  murders. 

4 1  was  on  the  coast  at  the  time,  and  was  sent  for  ;  and 
on  the  day  after  my  arrival  the  flag-ship  "  Wolverene  " 
came  into  Port  Moresby  with  Commodore  Wilson,  late 
Rear- Admiral  Wilson,  on  board.  He  came  to  the 
mission-house,  and  asked  me  to  accompany  him,  as  he 
had  determined  to  make  war  on  Kalo,  secure  the  chief,  the 
real  instigator  of  the  crime,  and  hang  him.  I  objected  ; 
but  he  said  my  accompanying  him  would  make  his 
mission  one  of  peace,  and  he  should  be  sorry  if  a  single 
shot  were  fired.  His  plan  was  to  make  the  Kalo  people 


*  Everything  to  prevent  Firing '         157 

give  up  Quaipo,  the  chief — but  this  I  felt  certain  they 
would  never  do — and  on  their  failing  to  do  this,  try 
to  get  the  Kerepunu  natives  to  seize  him.  But  they 
would  have  taken  to  the  bush  sooner  than  interfere  with 
Kalo  and  Quaipo. 

1  The  next,  and  only  feasible  plan,  was  to  surround  the 
village  and  make  the  chief  a  prisoner.  Some  weeks 
before  the  arrival  of  the  "Wolverene  "  I  received  a  message 
from  Quaipo  that  he  was  watching  everywhere,  and 
would  not  be  satisfied  until  he  had  my  head  on  his 
sacred  place.  I  returned  another  message,  that  I  should 
visit  Kalo,  and  would  leave  his  village  with  my  head  on 
my  shoulders,  and  not  on  his  dubu.  I  did  not  then 
know  how  this  was  to  be  accomplished. 

4  Finally  I  consented  to  go  with  the  commodore.  A 
man-of-war  schooner  was  taken  in  tow,  and  when  off 
Round  Head  arrangements  were  made  for  a  landing 
party.  The  officers  were  appointed,  and  the  surgeons 
were  busy  examining  the  blue-jackets  and  marines,  so 
that  no  one  should  land  who  was  in  any  way  maimed. 
We  dropped  anchor  between  Round  Head  and  Hula,  as  it 
was  necessary  that  the  Hula  natives  should  know  nothing 
of  the  overland  party.  All  were  called  aft,  and  before 
leaving  in  the  pinnace  and  boats  for  the  "  Beagle  "  the 
commodore  said,  in  effect : — 

* "  Now,  officers  and  men,  I  do  hope  there  will  be  no 
firing.  Remember,  there  is  neither  honour  nor  glory 
attached  to  this  business.  You  can  shoot  these  savages 
down  hundreds  of  yards  away,  and  they  must  be  close 
on  you  before  they  can  do  you  any  harm.  Try  and  get 
the  chief,  make  him  a  prisoner,  and  bring  him  off."  The 
commodore's  anxiety  to  secure  the  chief  without  blood- 
shed was  great,  and  again  and  again  he  said  to  me, 
"  Everything  to  prevent  firing."  The  "  Wolverene  " 


158  A  Cruel  Revenge 

steamed  round  to  Hood  Bay,  so  as  to  draw  the  attention 
of  the  natives,  and  divert  them  from  thinking  of  an 
inland  attack.  Nearly  200  of  us  went  on  board  the 
4  Beagle,'  and  at  night — and  such  a  night,  heavy  rain 
and  dreadfully  dark  and  blowing  hard — tried  to  sail  or 
beat  up  to  Hula  Point,  where  we  were  to  land  and 
go  overland  to  Kalo.  We  got  amongst  reefs  and  had  to 
anchor,  and  then  I  accompanied  Commander  Watson  in 
a  boat  to  find  the  Point.  We  succeeded,  and  at  once  the 
landing  began.  I  had  an  attack  of  fever,  and  had  to  lie 
on  the  beach  for  a  short  time.  All  having  landed,  we 
started  in  the  rain  and  darkness  to  find  the  path,  led  by 
Taria's  wife,  her  husband  having  been  one  of  the  men 
murdered.  I  thought  I  knew  the  place  well,  and  she 
had  lived  near  there  for  years,  but  neither  of  us  could 
find  it.  So  we  had  to  go  on  to  Hula,  and  there  securing 
the  aid  of  one  of  our  mission  boys,  we  were  soon  on  our 
way.  Instead  of  getting  to  Kalo  by  four  a.m.  it  was 
eight  o'clock,  and  anxiously  the  commodore  awaited  us, 
he  having  landed  with  a  party  on  the  opposite  shore  of 
the  Kemp  Welch  River  in  order  to  cut  off  the  retreat. 

'Commander  Watson,  with  a  party,  went  to  the 
eastern  side  of  the  village  ;  a  lieutenant  with  a  party 
which  I  accompanied  entered  the  village ;  and  another 
lieutenant  with  his  party  closed  in  on  the  western  side, 
so  as  to  be  able  to  surround  the  chiefs  house.  I  told 
the  natives  whom  we  met  that  we  had  come  to  seize  the 
chief  Quaipo,  and  nothing  more.  Our  party  took  up 
a  position  near  to  one  of  the  chief's  houses,  so  as  to 
prevent  any  from  escaping.  The  western  party,  while 
closing  in,  came  in  view  of  a  large  armed  party  of 
natives,  headed  by  Quaipo,  who  all  night  through  had 
been  watching  the  river,  and  from  daylight  had  been 
defying  the  commodore  and  his  party.  The  natives, 


Quaipo,  Chief  of  Kalo,  shot*          159 

finding  they  were  taken  in  the  rear,  wheeled  round  and 
at  once  attacked  the  blue-jackets  and  marines.  After 
three  of  the  former  had  been  severely  wounded,  the 
young  lieutenant,  seeing  the  natives  were  getting  too 
near,  ordered  "  Fire ! "  and  the  first  to  fall,  as  we  were 
afterwards  informed,  was  Quaipo.  In  all,  four  were 
shot  dead,  several  wounded,  and  two  taken  prisoners. 
There  was  no  looting,  not  a  cocoanut  touched,  not  a  pig 
shot,  and  not  a  woman  or  a  child  molested. 

1  After  the  firing  not  a  native  could  be  seen  anywhere. 
The  bugle  sounded,  and  we  all  made  for  the  boats.  The 
commodore  determined  to  make  sure  the  chief  was 
dead,  and  would  not  accept  the  evidence  of  the  Kere- 
punu  natives.  He  insisted  that  the  body  should  be 
brought  in  for  identification,  and  this  was  done.  Find- 
ing we  had  left,  the  natives  took  the  dead  and  at  once 
buried  them ;  but  on  the  commodore's  demanding  the 
body  of  Quaipo,  it  was  carried  five  miles  by  his  people, 
in  order  that  it  might  be  identified. 

'  On  the  Monday  a  party  landed,  and  with  native  help 
destroyed  the  chief's  largest  house.  Anxious  for  peace, 
pigs  and  presents  were  brought  to  the  commodore,  and 
he  in  return  gave  presents.  At  Kalo  and  everywhere 
else  along  the  coast  the  affair  is  well  known,  and  it  has 
had  a  wonderful  effect.  All  the  natives  say  that  only 
a  very  powerful  chief  and  people  could  ever  thus  mingle 
mercy  with  justice,  show  so  much  mercy  when  all  power 
was  theirs.  Indiscriminate  shooting  down  of  innocent 
natives,  burning  villages,  and  cutting  down  cocoanut- 
trees,  I  think  mere  barbarism.  It  ought  never  to  be 
done  by  our  Navy.  Every  shot  fired  and  every  deed 
done  by  our  blue -jackets  and  marines  are  acts  of  war; 
and  is  it  right  that  a  great  nation  should  do  such  things 
to  savages  ?  Better  tar  that  we  should  suffer  than  that 


160  A  Cruel  Revenge 

we  should  do  wrong-,  and  I  altogether  object  to  our 
Navy  being  used  in  such  mean  service,  especially  when, 
in  many  instances,  some  of  our  countrymen  have 
suffered  for  their  own  or  others'  misdeeds.' 

Chalmers  has  given  a  sketch  of  the  Kerepunu 
teacher  whose  useful  labours  were  cut  short  in  the  cruel 
way  described  above  :  — 

'  Anederea  was  a  native  of  Titikaveka,  Rarotonga. 
He  was  the  son  of  a  good  man,  who  took  a  great  interest 
in  mission  work.  The  son  for  a  few  years  had  led  a 
wild,  reckless  life.  He  went  to  sea  on  board  a  whale- 
ship,  and  on  his  return  home  settled  down  to  orange- 
beer  drinking  and  to  other  evils.  I  had  not  been  very 
long  on  Rarotonga  when  Anederea  professed  conversion, 
and  was  received  into  the  church  fellowship.  His  life 
became  altogether  changed,  and  he  was  a  good  worker 
in  the  church.  Through  his  teacher  he  applied  to  be 
received  as  a  student  into  the  Institution  of  which  I  was 
then  in  charge.  I  admitted  him,  and  during  his  six 
months'  probation  found  him  both  earnest  and  willing. 
He  got  on  well,  and  when  his  probation  was  over 
I  received  him  as  a  student.  He  worked  hard,  and  was 
soon  the  best  scholar  I  had. 

'  In  his  spare  time  I  employed  him  in  the  printing 
office,  and  there  he  soon  developed  into  a  good  com- 
positor and  an  all-round  man  in  everything  pertaining 
to  printing.  He  began  to  fear  that  I  meant  to  keep  him 
always  at  printing,  and  that  he  would  not  be  sent  to 
preach  Christ  to  the  heathen.  So  he  came  to  me  and 
resigned  all  connexion  with  the  printing  office,  and  said 
that  he  would  have  nothing  more  to  do  with  it  unless 
I  faithfully  promised  him  he  should  certainly  be  sent  to 
the  heathen. 

'  When  it  was  decided  to  send  teachers  from  Rarotonga 


Anederea  goes  to  New  Guinea          161 

to  New  Guinea  he  was  one  of  those  selected.  He  was 
in  great  spirits,  and  started  at  once  to  inform  his  Titi- 
kaveka  friends.  As  a  preacher  he  was  well  liked  every- 
where, and  during  his  last  year  he  had  preached  often 
at  the  villages  on  the  island.  His  wife  was  a  good 
woman,  but  slow  and  somewhat  untidy,  whereas  he  was 
active  and  very  particular  about  his  clothing.  He  helped 
me  much  in  teaching,  especially  with  the  first-year 
students,  and  they  all  liked  him  as  a  teacher.  He  was 
one  of  the  first  band  of  those  who  left  Rarotonga  in  1872. 
In  the  first  few  years  he  suffered  much  from  fever,  and 
lost  his  wife.  Some  time  after  he  married  the  widow  of 
a  teacher,  a  very  capable  woman,  and  a  very  suitable 
woman  in  every  way  to  be  his  wife.  She  was  a  Mangaian, 
and  in  the  New  Guinea  Mission  the  Mangaian  women 
proved  themselves  to  be  excellent  missionaries'  wives, 
and  good  earnest  workers. 

'The  year  before  I  reached  New  Guinea,  1876,  Ane- 
derea was  placed  by  Mr.  Lawes  at  Kerepunu,  and  he 
and  his  wife  soon  learned  the  language,  and  the  people 
became  much  attached  to  them.  There  were  no  bap- 
tisms, but  the  few  children  who  attended  school  were 
more  advanced  than  those  from  any  other  station,  and 
at  our  first  competitive  examination  his  school  stood  first. 
It  certainly  was  only  the  day  of  small  things,  but  it  was 
a  good  beginning. 

'In  the  beginning  of  1881  I  was  at  Port  Moresby, 
doing  what  I  could  to  translate  the  four  Gospels,  when 
one  morning  Taria,  the  Hula  teacher,  came  in  to  tell  me 
that  Anederea  was  very  ill,  and  to  ask  me  to  visit  him  or 
to  send  the  proper  medicine  for  him.  He  was  suffering 
from  fever,  so  I  gave  the  medicine,  and  sent  Taria  back 
immediately,  instructing  him  to  proceed  to  Kerepunu, 
give  the  medicine,  and  tell  Anederea  to  come  on  to  Hula, 

L 


162  A  Cruel  Revenge 

and  that  next  week  I  would  send  the  boat  there  for  him. 
The  medicine  which  was  sent  he  took,  and  he  felt  better, 
and  a  few  days  after  Taria  went  in  the  whaleboat  to 
bring  him  with  his  wife  and  children  to  Hula.  They 
called  at  Kalo  on  their  return  to  take  Materua  and  his 
family  on  with  them. 

'  When  Taria  landed,  leaving-  the  others  in  the  boat, 
Anederea,  his  wife  and  children,  were  sitting  aft,  and 
Quaipo,  the  chief,  stepped  into  the  boat  and  sat  down 
beside  the  teacher.  A  great  crowd  gathered  on  the 
beach,  behind  the  boat,  and  most  of  the  natives  had  arms. 
Anederea  wondered  what  this  meant,  but  the  chief 
assured  him  that  all  was  right.  The  chief  stepped  out  of 
the  boat,  and  then  the  massacre  began.  He  seized 
a  tomahawk  which  he  carried  in  his  netted  bag,  and 
struck  at  Anederea,  who,  looking  at  him,  said, -"My 
friend,  surely  you  are  not  going  to  kill  us?"  The 
chief  struck  another  blow  on  Anederea's  head,  and  he 
fell  dead. 

'  As  soon  as  the  natives  had  been  punished  for  their 
cruel  massacre  of  the  teachers,  they  were  anxious  to  have 
a  teacher  again  stationed  with  them ;  but  this  was  not 
possible  until  1 884.  In  that  year  a  band  of  native  teachers 
arrived  from  Polynesia,  and  we  selected  one,  Tau,  and  his 
wife,  from  Rarotonga,  to  go  to  Kalo.  We  started,  taking 
with  us  all  the  things  that  Tau  and  his  wife  wished  to 
have,  but  leaving  the  most  of  their  goods  at  Hula.  There 
had  been  a  good  deal  of  rain  the  night  before ;  it  was 
still  raining  a  little  and  the  grass  was  wet,  so  the  walking 
was  not  very  pleasant.  Arriving  at  Kalo,  we  at  once 
took  possession  of  the  house,  which  was  soon  crowded 
with  an  enthusiastic  and  rejoicing  lot  of  natives.  After 
a  little  while  I  paid  for  the  house,  and  then  sent  for  all 
the  chiefs,  four  in  number,  to  whom  I  gave  presents,  and 


An  Anxious  Night  163 

begged  of  them  to  be  kind  to  Tau  and  his  wife,  which 
they  cheerfully  promised.  The  chiefs  son,  with  whom 
the  former  teacher  had  lived,  and  who  was  one  of  the 
active  murderers,  told  me  that  the  piece  of  land  belong- 
ing to  the  Society  had  never  been  touched,  and  he  hoped 
that  as  the  past  had  been  forgiven  Tau  would  take 
possession  at  once,  and  begin  planting.  Kulu,  a  chief, 
who  had  had  nothing  whatever  to  do  with  the  massacre, 
told  the  Hula  teacher  that  they  were  all  afraid  and 
ashamed,  but  that  now  they  felt  more  comfortable,  and 
would  assist  the  teacher.  All  assured  me  they  would 
take  care  that  our  trust  in  them  would  not  again  be  for- 
feited. In  the  afternoon  the  eldest  son  of  the  chief 
Quaipo,  who  planned  the  attack,  came  with  a  pig  and 
a  large  quantity  of  food.  At  one  time  we  received 
twenty-four  dishes  of  cooked  food,  and  several  hundreds 
of  young  cocoanuts. 

4  In  the  evening  a  number  of  our  Hula  friends  returned  ; 
but,  anxious  to  show  the  Kalo  natives  that  I  trusted  them, 
I  decided  to  remain,  and  to  return  to  Hula  the  following 
morning.  Shortly  after  sundown  we  were  left  alone, 
and  at  first  I  doubted  if  I  had  done  right  in  remaining, 
lest  I  should  be  the  means  of  leading  our  teachers  and 
their  wives  and  my  boat's  crew  into  trouble.  No 
Europeans  had  slept  there  since  the  massacre.  We  were 
quite  at  their  mercy,  being  in  an  unprotected  house  and 
unarmed,  and  had  they  attacked  me  we  should  all  have 
been  killed.  In  one  sense  it  was  foolhardy,  as  the  natives 
had  often  said  that  nothing  would  satisfy  them  but  my 
head.  On  the  other  hand,  if  all  went  well,  it  would  be 
the  best  augury  for  future  success.  I  did  not  feel  quite 
at  my  ease,  and  had  fully  intended  to  keep  awake  and 
watchful  through  the  night.  But  after  evening  prayers 
I  rolled  myself  up  in  my  blanket,  feeling  it  very  cold.  In 

La 


164  A  Cruel  Revenge 

spite  of  my  prudent  intentions,  I  soon  was  sound  asleep, 
and  never  woke  until  the  next  morning  at  daylight.  The 
people  were  pleased  that  I  should  have  shown  such  con- 
fidence in  them,  as  they  all  knew  we  were  quite  unarmed. 
May  He  Who  protected  us  soon  become  known  unto 
them  all  1 ' 


CHAPTER    XI 

A  NOBLE   SAVAGE 

IN  his  early  visits  to  the  district  about  Cape  Suckling 
Tamate  made  the  acquaintance  of  a  native  whom  he 
soon  came  to  love.  Here  is  the  account  of  their 
meeting. 

'When  a  few  miles  beyond  Cape  Suckling  we  met 
three  Delena  canoes  laden  with  pottery.  It  seems  that 
in  ancient  times  the  Boera  natives  were  one  with  this 
people,  and  now  a  great  many  Boera  women  are  married 
to  Delena  natives.  The  canoes  were  waiting  for  the 
Namoa  natives  to  come  down  and  trade  for  their 
pottery  with  smoked  kangaroo.  We  all  landed,  and, 
after  luncheon,  a  party  was  arranged  to  visit  Namoa. 
When  about  to  start,  I  said, "  I  fear  it  will  rain  before  we 
can  return."  A  woman  sitting  close  by  said,  "  It  cannot 
rain  until  after  we  return  home  to  Delena." 

"'Why  not?"  I  asked. 

' "  The  rain-maker  is  with  us,  and  he  alone  has 
power." 

' "  Where  is  he  ? "  and  she  pointed  to  the  chief 
Kone. 

1 "  Kone,  my  friend,"  said  I,  "  what  about  the  rain  ? " 

' "  It  cannot  rain ;  so  do  not  be  afraid." 

'"But  I  think  it  will  rain  this  afternoon,  and  I  am 
not  sure  of  going  to  Namoa  until  our  return  from 
Maiva." 

'"You  need  not  fear;  so  let  us  start," 


166  A  Noble  Savage 

'The  natives  were  exceedingly  desirous  that  we 
should  at  once  start.  So  off  we  set  for  a  walk  of 
about  three  miles.  When  crossing  a  piece  of  level 
country,  I  said,  "  Now,  Kone,  it  will  rain." 

' "  It  will  not ! "  and  he  cried  out,  "  Rain,  stay  on 
the  mountains." 

'  I  said,  "  No  use,  Kone,  rain  will  come." 

'We  reached  Namoa,  and  the  rain  came,  and  there 
we  had  to  stay,  weatherbound,  as  prisoners.  Kone 
only  says — 

' "  Do  you  think  I  thought  you  were  a  man  of  no 
power?  You  are  a  Lohiabada  (great  chief),  and  so 
am  I,  but  the  rain  has  listened  to  you." 

'  Kone  laughed  when  I  replied,  "  Come,  my  friend, 
remember  what  I  have  been  telling  you  of  the  great 
and  good  Spirit  and  His  power." 

'  He  was  greatly  relieved  when  it  began  to  clear  up, 
and  the  stars  to  peep  out.  We  were  led  into  the  great 
meeting-house,  and  as  a  mark  of  friendship  were  at  once 
presented  with  betel-nuts  and  cooked  food.' 

From  time  to  time,  when  on  his  coast  trips  in  the  whale- 
boat,  Tamate  looked  in  upon  his  friend.  In  January, 
1 88 1,  he  writes: — 

4  We  spent  the  hour  of  midnight  with  Kone  and  Lavao, 
chiefs  of  Delena,  telling  them  of  our  visit  to  the  west, 
and  its  success  in  establishing  peace.  They  were 
greatly  delighted,  and  will  do  me  the  honour  of  visit- 
ing me  .at  Port  Moresby,  that  is,  will  relieve  me  of 
some  tomahawks.' 

'  On  the  Sunday  after  landing,'  Chalmers  writes,  *  we 
went  down  and  had  service  in  the  village.  Kone  inter- 
preted into  Lolo.  When  telling  the  people  we  had  no 
work  for  them  on  Sunday,  Kone  said :  "  Oh  !  we  know, 
and  we,  too,  are  going  to  be  helaka  (sacred)  to-morrow." 


had  to  keep  a  Good  Look-out'    167 

I  asked  him,  "Come,  Kone,  how  do  you  know  ? "  "  From 
Boera."  I  met  a  lad  repeating  the  Lord's  Prayer  in 
Motu,  and  found  he  had  been  taught  by  Piri  of  Boera. 

4  What  nonsense  one  could  write  of  the  reception  here 
— such  as,  "  Everybody  at  service  this  morning  listened 
attentively;  commented  on  address  or  conversation; 
children  all  come  to  school,  so  intelligent,  and  seem- 
ingly anxious  to  learn ;  and,  altogether,  prospects  are 
bright."  At  home  they  would  say,  Why,  they  are 
being  converted  ;  see  the  speedy  triumph !  Alas !  they 
are  but  savages,  pure  and  simple,  rejoicing  in  the 
prospect  of  an  unlimited  supply  of  tobacco,  beads,  and 
tomahawks.' 

During  this  stay  at  Delena,  one  of  those  warlike 
incursions  by  hostile  tribes  so  common  in  New  Guinea 
took  place.  Chalmers's  presence  and  influence  happily 
brought  about  an  early  and  satisfactory  settlement  of  the 
dispute.  In  his  journal  for  June,  1881,  he  wrote : — 

'Our  friends  seem  troubled.  I  find  they  have 
heard  that  the  Lolo  tribe  intend  making  a  raid  on  them. 
Is  it  on  them,  or  on  us  ?  The  great  hope  of  these  natives 
is  that  we  shall  use  our  guns,  and  so  frighten  the  invaders. 
I  tell  them  that  we  cannot  do  this ;  that  we  are  men  of 
peace,  and  have  no  wish  to  frighten  any  one. 

'We  had  to  keep  a  good  look-out  at  night.  Our 
friends  seemed  very  troubled  and  excited.  I  had  given 
warning  that  any  one  coming  near  our  camp  must  call 
out  my  name  and  his  or  her  own.  No  one  could  come 
near  without  our  knowing,  as  my  terrier  Flora  was 
a  splendid  watch-dog.  One  evening  some  women  passed 
the  camp,  carrying  their  valuables  to  hide  away  in  the 
bush.  Bob  Samoa,  my  boy,  asked, "  Suppose  Lolo  natives 
come  to  us,  what  we  do  ?  "  "  Of  course  they  will  not  come 
near  to  us  unless  they  mean  to  attack,  and  then  we  must 


i68  A  Noble  Savage 

defend  ourselves.  The  guns  are  ready."  It  was  not 
pleasant ;  but  I  managed  to  sleep  well,  knowing  we  were 
well  cared  for  by  Him  Who  is  never  far  off.  Through 
much  trouble  in  ways  like  this  we  get  to  be  known,  and 
the  purpose  for  which  we  came  to  New  Guinea  comes 
to  be  understood. 

'  The  next  night  I  slept  lightly,  with  Flora  on  watch, 
and  Bob  easily  aroused.  After  midnight  he  kept  watch. 
We  placed  the  lights  beyond  tents  on  each  side,  and  so 
arranged  that  the  light  would  strike  on  any  native  nearing 
camp.  About  two  a.m.  word  came  that  the  Loloans  were 
corning.  There  was  very  loud  and  noisy  talking  in  the 
village.  At  four  we  called  out  for  Kone,  who  came 
up  telling  us  that  we  were  to  be  attacked  first,  and  then 
Delena.  I  went  to  the  village,  and  saw  the  old  friendly 
chief  from  Lavao.  I  told  him  that  any  Loloan  coming 
over  the  brow  of  the  hill  with  weapons  in  his  hands 
would  be  considered  as  coming  to  fight,  and  that  we 
were  ready.  At  five,  women  and  children  crowded  into 
camp,  with  all  their  belongings,  and  asked  for  protection. 
Certainly ;  we  promised  to  do  what  we  could  for  them. 

'  Men  were  running  about,  planting  arms  in  convenient 
places  in  the  bush.  We  were  told  to  keep  a  good  look- 
out— and  that  we  did.  It  was  now  daylight,  so  we  did 
not  care  much.  A  fight  had  begun  in  the  village.  Some 
Loloans,  running  after  Delena  natives,  rushed  uphill ;  we 
warned  them  back,  and  they  retired.  There  was  a  loud 
shout  for  us  to  go  to  the  village  and  fight.  I  left  Bob 
with  guns  and  cartridges  to  keep  watch  over  the  camp. 
I  had  more  confidence  in  going  into  the  skirmish 
unarmed,  and  I  had  no  wish  for  the  savages  to  think  I 
had  come  to  fight.  I  shouted  out  Maino  (Peace),  and 
soon  there  was  a  hush  in  the  terrible  storm. 

'  I  was  allowed  to  walk  through  the  village,  and  disarm 


Tamate  makes  Peace  169 

one  or  two  warriors.  On  my  return  to  our  friend 
Kone's  end  of  the  village,  he  whispered  to  me, "  There  is 
Arua,"  understanding  him  to  mean  the  chief,  or  vata 
tauna  (sorcerer).  I  recognized  in  him  the  sorcerer 
introduced  to  me  on  a  former  visit,  and  who  in  wrath 
had  gone  away  from  my  presence.  Now  this  may  be 
his  time  to  pay  me  out.  I  took  his  weapons  from  him, 
linked  my  arm  in  his,  and  walked  him  up  the  hill.  I 
spoke  kindly  to  him,  showed  him  the  flag,  and  told  him 
we  were  maino  (at  peace),  and  warned  him  that  his 
people  must  on  no  account  ascend  the  hill.  He 
promised  that  he  would  stop  the  fighting.  I  sat  down 
in  camp  for  awhile,  when  again  they  rushed  up  for  me, 
saying  that  Kone  was  to  be  killed.  Again  leaving  Bob 
in  charge  of  the  arms,  I  went  down  to  the  village,  and 
without  my  hat.  More  canoes  had  arrived.  What 
a  crowd  of  painted  fiends  !  I  was  surrounded,  and  had 
no  way  of  escape.  Sticks  and  spears  rattled  round 
about  me.  I  got  a  knock  on  the  head,  and  a  piece  of 
stick  fell  on  my  hand.  My  old  Lavao  friend  got  hold  of 
me  and  walked  me  to  the  outskirts  of  the  crowd.  Arua 
and  Lauma,  chiefs  of  Lolo,  assured  me  they  would  not 
ascend  the  hill,  and  that  we  had  better  not  interfere  with 
them.  "  Right,  friends ;  but  you  must  stop,  and  on 
no  account  injure  my  friend  Kone."  We  could  have 
easily  frightened  them  had  we  gone  armed  into  the 
village,  but  then  we  should  not  have  been  able  to  stay 
there  twenty-four  hours  after.  I  was  able  to  do  more  for 
the  natives  unarmed.  I  was  glad  to  be  able  to  mix  with 
both  parties. 

*  After  all  this  uproar  and  tumult  no  one  was  killed,  but 
several  were  severely  wounded,  and  a  few  houses  were 
destroyed.  They  made  peace  at  last,  and  I  had  a  meet- 
ing in  the  village  with  them  alt  The  Loloans  promised 


170  A  Noble  Savage 

to  be  quiet.  I  told  them  we  could  not  stay  if  they  were 
to  be  constantly  threatening.  In  the  afternoon  the  chiefs 
came  up,  and  I  promised  to  visit  them  all.  My  head 
ached  a  little.  Had  I  been  killed,  I  alone  should  have 
been  to  blame,  and  not  the  natives.  The  Delena  natives 
say :  "  Well,  Tamate,  had  you  not  been  here  many  of  us 
would  have  been  killed,  and  the  remainder  gone  to 
Naara,  never  to  return."  There  is  pleasure  in  being  of 
use  even  to  savages. 

'  The  next  Sunday  we  had  a  splendid  service.  All  the 
young  fellows  dressed  for  it  by  painting  their  faces. 
It  was  amusing  and  interesting  to  hear  them  interpret 
all  I  said  from  Motuan  into  Loloan ;  and  when  I 
attempted  to  use  a  Lolo  word,  they  corrected  me  if 
I  wrongly  pronounced  or  misplaced  it.  After  service 
we  had  all  the  children  and  young  men  to  school.  A 
goodly  number  have  learnt  most  of  the  letters.  Some 
of  the  natives  would  beat  native  cloth,  and  thus  disturb 
the  school,  and  Kone  grew  very  angry,  and,  because 
they  would  not  listen  to  him,  threatened  to  pull  up  his 
recently  buried  child.  I  sent  word  that  he  must  on  no 
account  do  that,  and  must  say  no  more  to  the  men  beat- 
ing cloth.  By  and  by  his  people  will  become  more 
enlightened,  and  then  they  will  understand  how  to  keep 
the  Sabbath.  Kone's  idea  is  that  they  ought  now  and  at 
once  to  understand. 

'  A  few  days  later  I  left  Delena  for  Maiva,  and,  although 
a  heavy  sea  was  running  at  the  time,  landed  safely  at 
eleven  a.m.  at  Miria's  village,  on  the  Maiva  coast. 

'In  October,  1881,  we  left  Port  Moresby  in  the 
"  Mayri "  with  a  good  breeze,  and  were  soon  at  Boera, 
where,  after  an  hour's  trading  for  earthenware  pots  to 
take  west,  for  which  we  were  to  receive  sago  in  return, 
I  took  fifty  on  board,  and  set  sail  for  Delena,  intending 


"THE     SPEAR    INTENDED     FOR    THE    NAARA     MAN 
ENTERED   KONE'S  OWN   BREAST" 


'Kone,  your  Friend,  is  dead'  171 

to  get  my  boat  for  river  work,  and  to  take  my  friend 
Kone  with  me.  He  was  well  known,  and  liked  all  along 
the  Gulf  coast  to  Bald  Head. 

'We  anchored  next  morning  about  three  miles  from 
Delena,  and  at  daylight  ran  down  to  the  anchorage  off 
the  village.  Very  soon  we  saw  the  boat  coming,  Lavao 
standing  up  aft,  and  several  of  the  men  with  native 
cloth  on  their  heads,  a  sign  of  mourning.  I  missed 
Kone,  and  anxiously  waited  for  them  to  come  alongside. 
As  they  neared  the  vessel,  there  was  no  loud  talking,  and 
all  looked  sorrowful.  Lavao  stepped  on  board,  and  I 
asked  at  once,  "  Where  is  Kone  ? "  After  a  time  he  said, 
"  Oh,  Tamate,  Kone,  your  friend,  is  dead." 

4 "  Dead,  Lavao  ? "  I  was  so  overcome  that  I  had  to  sit 
down. 

1 "  Yes,  Kone  is  dead,  and  we  buried  him  on  your 
ground,  near  your  house  ;  the  house  of  his  one  great 
friend." 

' "  Did  Kone  die  of  sickness  ? " 

4 "  No  ;  he  was  speared  by  your  friend  Laoma.  After 
you  left,  there  was  a  feast  at  Delena.  Kone  and  others 
were  there,  also  some  Naara  natives.  At  night,  Laoma 
came  with  his  spears  to  kill  a  Naara  man,  and  when 
about  to  throw  a  spear,  Kone  caught  the  Naara  man 
and  placed  him  behind  him.  The  spear  intended  for  the 
Naara  man  entered  Kone's  own  breast.  We  carried  him 
home,  and  on  the  second  moon  he  died." 

4  My  poor  Kone  !  The  kindliest  savage  I  have  ever 
met ;  how  I  shall  miss  you !  I  had  hoped  that  you 
would  have  been  a  great  help  to  me  in  introducing  the 
Gospel  along  the  shores  of  the  Gulf.  How  anxious 
Kone  was  to  be  taught  and  to  learn  how  to  pray !  I 
taught  him  this  short  prayer :  4t  God  of  love,  give  me 
light;  lead  me  to  Christ."  Who  will  deny  that  my 


172  A  Noble  Savage 

wind-making  and  rain-making  friend  has  passed  from 
this  darkness  into  the  light  that  he  prayed  for  ? 

'  After  breakfast  I  landed,  and  found  Kone's  house  just 
as  we  left  it — hammocks  swung  underneath,  and  small 
houses  all  about.  Where  I  pitched  my  tent  on  my  first 
visit  to  Delena  they  had  built  a  good-sized  house,  and  in 
this  Kone's  body  was  buried.  I  entered,  and  found  Kaia, 
Kone's  widow,  enveloped  in  cloth.  She  began  wailing 
and  cutting  her  head  with  a  shell  held  in  her  right  hand, 
the  blood  flowing  freely,  and  would  certainly  have  done 
herself  much  harm  had  I  not  interfered.  I  felt  sorry 
indeed  for  her;  but  what  could  I  say  to  comfort  her? 
I  did  not  think  it  out  of  place  to  pray,  sitting  on  that 
grave,  whilst  for  a  little  while  the  loud  wailing  was 
hushed.  After  sitting  for  some  time  by  the  grave,  I 
gave  our  presents  to  the  dead  and  the  living,  placing 
those  for  Kone  on  the  mat  covering  his  grave.  Leaving 
the  grave,  I  went  up  to  the  house,  where  several  dishes 
of  bananas  and  fish  were  presented  to  me.  Everything 
we  had  left  in  charge  of  Kone  and  other  natives  had 
been  well  cared  for,  and  the  boat  was  in  excellent 
order.' 


CHAPTER  XII 

RIDING  THE  PACIFIC  SURGES 

TAMATE  was  a  born  explorer  and  pioneer.  From  his 
early  boyhood  he  had  been  familiar  with  the  sea  in  calm 
and  in  storm,  and  he  was  as  much  at  home  in  a  boat  as 
on  land.  It  was  his  constant  habit  to  make  trips  along 
the  New  Guinea  coast  in  a  whaleboat,  and  scenes  of 
peril,  where  only  nerve  and  judgement  and  a  strong  arm 
at  the  steering  oar  could  avert  deadly  peril,  were  of 
almost  daily  occurrence. 

In  many  parts  of  New  Guinea  at  certain  seasons  of  the 
year  the  great  breakers  of  the  Papuan  Gulf  crash  cease- 
lessly on  the  beach.  If  a  landing  has  to  be  made  it  can 
be  made  only  either  in  a  native  canoe  or  in  a  boat  which 
can  successfully  ride  through  the  seven  lines  of  huge 
breakers  that  guard  the  shore.  Great  skill  is  required 
in  choosing  the  right  kind  of  wave  on  which  to  ride 
through  the  breakers.  If  too  big  a  wave  is  chosen  it 
may  break  over  the  boat  and  overturn  and  swamp  it, 
with  the  result  that  some  or  all  of  the  crew  lose  their  lives. 
In  this  riding  of  the  Pacific  surges  Tamate  was  an 
expert,  and  hundreds  of  times  he  successfully  did  it. 
From  the  many  incidents  available  we  select  three  or 
four  to  illustrate  this  dangerous  side  of  New  Guinea  life 
and  work. 

At  the  end  of  October,  1881,  Tamate  left  Vailala  on  a 
stormy  morning,  hoping  that  during  the  day  it  would 
clear  up,  and  that  he  would  get  along  all  right  There 


174  Riding  the  Pacific  Surges 

was  a  heavy  sea  on  the  bar  of  the  river,  and  to  avoid  it  he 
kept  away  west,  between  sandbanks,  and  when  opposite 
to  Maclatchie  Point,  the  boat  pulled  out  to  sea.  On 
leaving  the  sandbanks,  it  met  a  nasty  sea,  and  the  boat 
shipped  one  sea  that  nearly  swamped  it,  soaking  every- 
thing, and  mixing  up  together  tea,  sugar,  bread,  and 
tobacco,  so  that  all  were  useless.  The  crew  pulled  until 
the  boat  got  right  out  to  sea,  when  they  set  sail,  and 
away  she  bowled  before  a  freshening  breeze  and  an 
increasing  sea. 

When  off  the  Aivei  River,  the  eastern  mouth  of  the 
Purari  Delta,  in  the  Namau  district,  and  not  far  from 
Maipua,  there  was  a  very  heavy  sea  breaking  on  the  bar 
right  across  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  it  would  have 
been  madness  to  attempt  to  enter.  So  there  was  nothing 
for  it  but  to  put  back. 

It  was  blowing  hard,  and  the  weather  was  dirty,  with 
a  very  heavy  sea  running.  They  took  a  reef  in  the  sail, 
and  bore  away  for  Orokolo,  where  they  found  a  succes- 
sion of  breaking  seas  between  them  and  the  beach.  So 
little  did  Tamate  like  the  look  of  things  that  he  thought 
of  beating  back  to  Vailala.  But  in  such  weather  there  was 
no  hope  of  getting  there  before  dark,  and  to  be  out  all 
night  in  the  open  sea  was  a  danger  he  did  not  wish  to 
risk.  What  was  to  be  done  ?  There  was  nothing  for  it 
but  to  run  through  the  breakers  ;  and  then  arose  another 
fear — would  the  savages  on  the  beach,  who  were  unknown 
to  him,  receive  them  kindly  or  otherwise  ? 

Two  years  before,  in  the  '  Ellengowan,'  he  was  off 
Orokolo,  and  about  the  same  place,  and  then  he  believed 
the  people  were  not  friendly.  They  came  off  in  large 
fighting  canoes,  with  many  bundles  of  arrows  and  bows, 
and  fighting  men,  with  arm-guards  on,  standing  on  the 
fighting  platforms.  He  thought  they  had  planned  to 


'Pull  easy  and  steady,  Lads'  175 

attack  him.  As  they  neared  him,  two  Motuans,  who 
were  with  him,  said  they  were  going  to  fight.  So  he 
asked  the  captain  to  keep  the  '  Ellengowan  '  moving,  and 
to  see  that  there  was  a  good  reserve  of  steam  for  a  spurt 
if  necessary.  He  watched  the  canoes  closely,  and  saw 
a  strange  movement  amongst  them.  They  were  sur- 
rounding him,  and  the  fighting  men  had  their  bows 
strung.  Then  he  thought  it  advisable  to  head  out,  and 
give  her  all  the  steam  she  could  carry.  For  a  short 
distance  they  headed  him,  but  seemed  afraid  to  close  in, 
and  he,  keeping  at  full  speed,  got  away  from  them 
altogether. 

*  Now,  on  this,  my  second  visit,'  wrote  Tamate,  4 1 
wondered  what  kind  of  reception  we  should  have.     On 
one  of  my  journeys  at  the  east  end  of  New  Guinea,  when 
we  landed  on  the  beach,  we  were  welcomed  by  having 
about  a  dozen  spears  thrown  at  us.     But  before   the 
savages  could  get  too  near  we  got  into  the  boat  and 
pulled  away.     Now  if  we  got  safely  over  these  long 
lines  of  heavy  breakers  it  would  not  be  pleasant  to  be 
met  on  landing  with  arrows  and  clubs,  for  there  was  no 
chance  of  our  being  able  to  get  the  boat  out  to  sea 
again. 

'We  anchored,  then  down  sails  and  mast,  and  made 
all  snug.  Then  we  had  prayer,  and  trusted  Him  on 
Whose  business  we  were. 

*  Out  came  the  long  steer  oar ;  we  shipped  rowlocks, 
out  came  the  oars,  our  best  men  were  placed  at  the  oars, 
and  in  came  the  anchor.     The  boat  is  swept  round,  head 
right  in  shore,  where  a  great  crowd  of  natives  awaited 
us  on  the  beach.     "  Pull  easy  and  steady,  lads ;  watch 
and  listen."     Away  we  go,  and  we  are  soon  into  a 
heavy  sea,  and  a  surging,  roaring  mass  of  water  all 
round.    At  times  the  boat  is  flying  through  the  water 


176  Riding  the  Pacific  Surges 

on  top  of  a  fierce  roller,  just  as  if  shot  from  a  catapult ; 
at  others,  though  pulling  hard,  it  is  difficult  to  feel  that 
she  is  making  any  headway,  there  being  only  a  confused 
mass  of  waves  around.  "  Easy,  easy,  lads ;  let  this  wave 
and  the  next  pass."  Then  comes  a  suitable,  smoother, 
swelling  billow.  "Now,  lads,  give  her  it;  pull,  pull. 
Easy  again."  A  great  sea  is  close  on  us ;  it  curls,  roars, 
breaks  all  round,  followed  by  another  and  another,  and 
now  again  the  shout  is  given,  "  Lads,  pull,  pull  as  for 
dear  life !  "  The  oars  are  bending ;  God  grant  no  oar 
may  break. 

'  By  this  time  the  boat  is  close  in  to  the  shore,  and  we 
look  anxiously  behind  us,  whilst  long  rollers  gather 
strength,  and  we  have  to  manoeuvre  to  save  the  boat 
from  being  swamped.  All  are  watching,  so  as  to  seize 
the  first  chance  of  a  lesser  roller.  Here  it  comes,  and 
away  we  are  again  on  the  back  of  that  last  one — "  Pull, 
let  her  have  it."  Here  it  comes;  she  tilts,  she  bounds,  she 
threatens  to  swing  broadside  and  upset ;  but  is  in  control 
with  the  long  steer  oar.  The  natives,  unarmed,  are 
rushing  into  the  water ;  the  rowers  cast  their  oars  into 
the  boat,  and  themselves  plunge  overboard.  The  boat 
is  seized  and  carried  by  an  excited,  shouting,  yelling 
crowd  to  a  point  far  beyond  high-water  mark. 

'A  kindly-looking  man  conies  through  the  crowd, 
takes  hold  of  my  arm,  and  gives  me  to  understand  that 
I  am  to  be  his  friend  and  guest.  We  are  all  marched 
up  to  the  large  dubu,  or  sacred  house,  and  there  I  am 
given  a  corner  with  a  fireplace  on  the  floor,  to  make 
myself  at  home  in  until  the  weather  moderates.  And 
this  is  how  we  often  land  on  a  New  Guinea  beach. 

4  The  following  day  was  a  Sunday,  and  after  an  early 
breakfast  and  service,  I  left  my  man,  Bob,  in  charge  of 
our  things,  and  went  with  our  crew  to  the  western 


Aveo,  the  Sorcerer  177 

villages,  and  held  services  in  each.  About  midday  I 
returned,  and  found  a  very  angry  crowd,  armed  with 
bows  and  arrows,  all  crowded  together  in  front  of  our 
dubu,  and  I  could  see  mischief  was  meant.  On  getting 
in,  I  found  my  man  had  been  threatened,  and  it  was 
hinted  we  might  all  be  killed  because  we  had  not  dis- 
tributed things  to  all  the  chiefs  connected  with  the 
dubu.  I  sent  for  the  chiefs,  and,  through  an  interpreter, 
we  had  a  good  time,  a  straight  talk,  and  when  finished 
they  went  away,  I  think,  more  ashamed  than  when  they 
came.  They  certainly  were  made  to  understand  no  one 
ever  got  anything  by  threatening  me.  Bows  and  arrows 
were  all  placed  away,  and  we  had  quiet  for  the  rest  of 
the  day. 

4  It  was  on  this  visit  that  I  first  met  Aveo,  the  sorcerer. 
I  had  heard  from  the  Port  Moresby  natives,  who  visit  the 
Gulf  yearly  for  sago,  that  this  Aveo  had  very  powerful 
"  things  " — that  he  could,  through  them,  raise  storms, 
make  calms,  cause  droughts  and  famines,  give  plenty, 
create  lightnings  and  thunderings,  and  earthquakes,  until 
all  the  people  trembled  with  fear,  and  that  when  they 
were  about  to  return  from  the  west  to  their  home,  with 
their  large  rafts  and  canoes  laden  with  sago,  they  took 
the  precaution  of  making  Aveo  a  good  present,  and  ask 
him  for  quiet,  favourable  weather. 

'  When  I  met  him  at  Orokolo,  I  promised  to  visit  his 
village  on  my  way  back  to  Vailala.  When  I  did  so,  I 
was  led  into  thick  brush,  through  swamp,  and  across 
several  creeks  to  a  good-sized  village  in  a  cleared  space 
in  the  bush.  We  were  given  the  use  of  a  good-sized 
erabo  or  dubu  and  were  comfortable.  Aveo  provided 
us  with  food,  fish,  and  cocoanuts,  and  in  the  afternoon 
killed  a  pig  for  us.  Whilst  the  pig  was  being  cooked,  I 
got  Aveo  to  sit  down  beside  me,  and  he  told  me  that 

M 


178  Riding  the  Pacific  Surges 

what  I  had  heard  of  his  "  wonderful  things  "  was  true. 
I  asked  him  to  show  me  them,  but  he  point-blank  refused, 
saying, 

4 "  Tamate,  you  are  now  my  friend ;  and  if  I  showed 
you  these  things,  you  would  die,  as  no  one  but  myself 
must  see  them." 

4  "  Aveo,  there  is  not  the  slightest  chance  of  my  dying, 
or  being  sick  even,  by  seeing  your  things." 

*  "  Never,  Tamate,  my  friend,  no,  never." 

4 "  It  is  all  right,  Aveo,  they  can  do  me  no  harm." 

*  A  Motuan  standing  by,  and  hearing  us,  said  to  Aveo, 
"  You  may  let  him  see  them,  as  they  will  have  no  effect 
whatever  upon  him  ;  he  goes  everywhere,  sees  every- 
thing, and  he  is  all  right." 

4  A  long  sigh,  and  then  Aveo  said,  "  I  fear,  but  I  will 
think  about  it." 

'  I  was  determined  to  see  them. 

*  After  an  evening  service,  we  all  turned  in,  I  into  my 
hammock,  swung  on  the  platform  of  the  erabo.     It  was 
a  hot,  close  night,  and,  although  tired,  yet  I  could  not 
get  off  into  a  good,  sound,  healthy  sleep.     Near  mid- 
night I  saw  a  figure  approach  me,  and  when  alongside 
touched  me,  saying  in  a  whisper, 

4  44  Are  you  asleep  ? " 

* 44  No,  I  am  not.    Is  it  you,  Aveo  ?  " 

* "  Yes — do  you  really  want  to  see  those  things  ?  " 

4  "Yes,  I  do." 

* 44  They  won't  kill  you  ?  You  will  not  get  sick,  and 
then  die,  after  you  have  seen  them  ? " 

4  4C  No,  certainly  not." 

* 4<  I  am  afraid,  greatly  afraid,  but  come  with  me,"  and 
he  led  me  through  the  village  to  the  end  house,  built  on 
the  ground. 

*  We  passed  through  two  rooms,  and  into  a  very  small 


Aveo's  Sacred  Idols  179 

room,  which  he  told  me  was  his.  He  carefully  put  the 
door  up,  then  stirred  a  fire  and  got  dry  wood,  and  we 
had  a  good  light.  A  small,  dirty,  netted  bag  was  taken 
down,  and  he  began  to  undo.  Stopping,  he  said, 

4 "  That  must  be  enough,  Tamate ;  you  will  die,  and 
what  then  will  I  do  ?  " 

1 "  No,  Aveo,  I  will  not  die,  so  fear  not." 
'A  small  parcel  is  taken  from  the  bag;  yards  and 
yards  of  twine,  made  from  cocoanut  fibre,  are  unwound  ; 
pieces  of  native  cloth,  made  from  the  bark  of  the  mul- 
berry shrub,  are  also  unwound,  and  at  length  something 
is  nearing.  From  the  quantities  of  twine  and  native 
cloth,  I  was  beginning  to  think  there  was  a  bit  of  a 
swindle.  I  stir  up  the  fire,  he  stops,  the  tears  are 
trickling  down  his  cheeks,  his  hands  shake,  and  again 
he  says,  in  a  voice  full  of  emotion, 
•"  Oh,  Tamate,  you  will  die." 
' "  No,  Aveo,  no ;  I  am  all  right ;  go  on." 
*  The  last  roll,  and  then  three  pieces  of  wood  appear, 
which  he  placed  carefully  on  the  mat.  Two  were  like 
small  dolls,  a  male  and  a  female,  and  the  other  a  very 
small  Indian  club.  They  looked  ancient,  and  he  told  me 
they  were  very  very  ancient,  handed  down  from  father 
to  son,  through  many  generations,  and  no  one  living 
but  himself  had  ever  seen  them,  and  now  I  had.  He 
was  beginning  to  pack  them  up,  and  I  suggested  my 
buying  them,  but  that  was  sacrilege ;  so  I  told  him  again, 
as  we  had  done  during  the  day,  that  by  and  by  a  mis- 
sionary would  be  placed  near  to  him,  who  would  teach 
him  of  the  true  God,  Who  made  all  things,  and  Who 
loves  us  all,  and  Who  gave  Jesus  to  show  us  He  loves 
us,  and  then  he  would  believe  the  missionary,  and  not 
want  these  things  any  more.  He  was  to  give  them  or 
sell  them  to  no  one  else  but  me. 

M  2 


180  Riding  the  Pacific  Surges 

'  A  quiet  smile,  a  very  sarcastic  reply,  "  Yes,  should  it 
ever  happen.  These  things  I  will  give  to  my  son  after 
I  have  taught  him  all." 

4  Stealthily  I  stole  back  to  my  quarters  and  slept. 
The  next  day,  after  breakfast,  we  left  for  Vailala. 

'  In  a  few  years'  time  I  placed  teachers  at  Vailala  and 
Orokolo.  Aveo's  village  was  forsaken,  and  he  went 
to  live  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  river.  A  few  years 
more,  and  then  Mr.  Holmes  took  charge  of  the  whole 
western  district,  and  I  went  on  to  the  Fly  River. 
Mr.  Holmes,  being  very  ill  with  fever,  had  to  go  to 
Sydney  and  the  South  Seas  for  change,  and  I  paid 
a  visit  for  him  to  all  the  Gulf  stations.  I  had  forgotten 
all  about  Aveo's  "  things." 

'  I  was  sitting  in  the  teacher's  house  on  the  western 
side  of  the  river,  after  a  busy  morning,  when  in  comes 
my  old  friend.  We  had  some  conversation,  and  then 
he  said, 

' "  What  of  those  things,  Tamate  ? " 

' "  What  things,  Aveo  ? " 

' u  Why,  have  you  forgotten  them  ? " — and  then  there 
flashed  across  my  memory  the  long-ago  night,  and 
I  say, 

'"No,  I  remember  them  well;  and  what  of  them, 
Aveo  ? " 

' "  Do  you  want  them  now  ?  " 

' "  Certainly  I  do,  and  I  will  pay  for  them,  if  you  will 
let  me  have  them." 

' "  No,  no  payment,  Tamate,  but  you  will  have  them. 
When  you  come  to  our  side  of  the  river,  and  at  night, 
when  no  one  is  about,  you  will  get  them." 

'  I  crossed  over,  and  had  finished  my  work,  and 
arranged  to  sail  the  following  morning.  About  9.30  p.m. 
I  was  sitting  writing  when  Aveo  appeared.  He  first 


Tamate  secures  Aveo's  Idols  181 

had  a  good  look  all  over  the  place,  and  when  he  came 
on  to  the  verandah,  he  saw  two  men  at  the  back  door 
who  were  watching  me  writing,  and  he  said,  "  Who  are 
these  men  ?  What  do  they  want  ?  Send  them  away." 
So,  giving  them  a  smoke,  I  told  them  to  be  gone.  He 
asked  that  all  doors  and  windows  should  be  shut,  and, 
seating  himself  down  beside  me,  placed  the  old  bag 
before  me  as  of  old,  unwound  twine  and  native  cloth, 
until  there  were  the  identical  figures.  "  All  right,  my 
friend ;  pack  them  up  quick  " — which  was  done  with 
much  heavy  breathing,  sighing,  and  mutterings. 

'  He  handed  the  parcel  to  me,  and  I  told  him  to  wait 
whilst  I  went  to  the  "  Niue  "  anchored  close  by.  I  was 
afraid  lest  he  should  change  his  mind,  and  so  wanted 
the  parcel  safe  on  the  vessel.  I  soon  had  it  in  one  of 
the  lockers.  I  returned  and  gave  Aveo  a  suitable 
present. 

'  I  slept  ashore  that  night,  and  the  next  morning  early 
was  on  board  the  "  Niue,"  ready  for  a  start.  The  tide 
was  on  the  slack ;  there  was  a  light  breeze  from  inland, 
but  with  the  tide  sufficient  to  take  us  out.  There  was 
a  heavy  sea  on  the  bar,  breaking  white  right  across,  but 
I  was  anxious  to  get  on.  The  wind  failed,  so  we  dropped 
anchor.  In  about  half  an  hour  after  again  the  land 
breeze  came  up,  and  we  up  anchor  and  stood  out.  Sky- 
lights and  ports  were  all  tightly  closed,  and  a  small 
terrier  I  had  with  me  was  shut  up  down  below.  We  were 
certainly  a  little  too  far  west,  but  we  all  hoped  to  clear 
the  point.  Then  the  thought  struck  us,  Will  the  wind 
fail  us  now  ?  Stand  by  the  anchor ! 

*  Bob,  our  captain,  an  excellent  Aitutakian,  was  steer- 
ing ;  the  mate,  a  Manilla  man,  was  looking  queer.  She 
was  being  swept  on ;  she  won't  clear  the  point :  the 
wind  dropped  altogether.  If  we  go  on  that  point  there 


182  Riding  the  Pacific  Surges 

will  be  little  hope  for  us,  as  a  fearful  sea  was  breaking 
on  it.  "  Let  go  that  anchor ! "  was  roared  out ;  but  too 
late.  We  were  in  it,  and  before  the  anchor  caught  she 
was  on  the  point,  and  seas  were  washing  her  fore  and  aft. 
Jimi,  my  boy,  came  close  up  to  me,  and  I  put  my  arm 
round  him,  and  with  the  right  clung  to  the  port  main 
rigging.  It  was  fearful.  Bob  found  his  way  forward, 
but  he  felt  nothing  could  be  done.  She  was  bumping, 
thumping,  swinging  from  port  to  starboard,  and  star- 
board to  port.  I  shouted  to  Bob,  "  Give  her  all  the 
chain,  and  let  her  be  swept  out  of  this  into  better  water, 
and  we  may  have  a  chance." 

'  We  were  seen  from  the  shore,  but  no  one  could  come 
near  us;  yet  there  was  hope  for  us  now.  We  had 
been  lifted  by  the  breakers  in  beyond  where  they  broke 
furiously,  and  a  whaleboat  in  charge  of  a  white  man, 
a  trader,  came  near,  and  with  difficulty  Jimi  and  I  got  in. 
I  remembered  the  dog,  and  got  him  up  and  on  board  the 
boat.  Two  men  were  baling  all  the  time,  so  as  to  keep 
the  boat  afloat.  The  canoes  came  near,  and  everything 
worth  saving-  was  put  on  them,  and  all  left  the  vessel. 
We  landed  near  to  the  teacher's,  and  awaited  low  water. 

'  The  vessel  was  high  and  dry  at  low  water,  and  so  all 
were  able  to  arrange  to  float  her  off  at  the  next  tide. 
Many  natives  came  off,  and  the  anchors  were  placed 
well  in  towards  the  shore,  so  that  when  the  vessel  rose 
she  would  swing  to  them  in  smooth  water.  The  ballast 
was  all  taken  out,  and  landed,  and  we  had  just  to  wait 
the  incoming  tide.  Near  to  high  water  she  floated,  and 
came  right  in  to  a  good  anchorage.  But  it  took  us  a 
week  to  get  her  ready  for  sea. 

'When  the  natives  saw  us  go  ashore,  there  was  a 
great  shout,  "  Tamate  has  got  Aveo's  '  things,'  and  the 
'  Niue '  is  wrecked  and  Tamate  drowned."  East  and 


Aveo's  Idols  cause  Mischief  183 

west  the  report  rang  that  the  "Nine "  was  a  total  wreck, 
Tamate  drowned,  and  all  because  of  Aveo's  "  things." 
In  the  afternoon  Aveo  appeared,  in  great  distress,  but 
I  comforted  him  by  assuring  him  it  was  the  wind  failing 
us  that  caused  the  mischief,  and  God  had  been  good  to 
us,  and  no  lives  were  lost.  The  "  things  "  also  were  all 
right,  and  would  yet  find  their  way  to  Beritani. 

'  When  the  "  Niue  "  was  ready  for  sea,  the  sea  on  the 
bar  was  still  very  bad,  so  I  determined  to  go  on  by 
canoe,  the  teacher  offering  to  take  me  in  his  fine,  large 
one.  The  sea  was  so  bad  on  the  coast  that,  after  trying 
to  get  through  it,  and  not  succeeding,  several  of  our 
crew  left  us,  and  took  to  the  bush.  We  got  a  few  others, 
and  were  two  hours  trying,  when  at  last  the  teacher,  who 
was  in  charge,  called  out,  "  Pull,  pull,  pull  hard  ! "  Up, 
down,  easing  off,  keeping  to,  seas  curling,  breaking  all 
round,  and  the  rowers  fagging ;  still  the  teacher's  "  Pull, 
pull,  pull  away,  children,"  and  at  length  a  great  shout, 
and  we  were  outside  of  all  breakers,  and  in  a  nice  sea, 
with  a  fine,  steady,  favourable  breeze.  The  "  Niue  "  got 
out  a  few  days  after.' 

Here  is  another  landing,  which  did  not  end  so  happily. 
It  occurred  in  the  year  1888. 

4  A  week  ago  I  went  to  Kabadi.  Mr.  Romilly  hearing 
I  was  going,  decided  to  go  with  me,  so  the  Government 
cutter  took  us  to  the  Skittles  (Kekeni),  Redscar  Bay,  and 
there  my  whaleboat  met  us.  About  four  p.m.  we  left 
the  cutter,  eighteen  all  told  on  board  the  boat,  and  we 
were  very  deeply  laden.  Mr.  Romilly  was  against  land- 
ing until  the  morning.  But  I  was  anxious  to  spend 
as  long  a  time  as  possible  with  the  teacher  and  people 
and  visit  all  the  villages ;  hence  my  hurry  to  get  ashore. 
I  had  a  trusty  native  at  the  oar  steering. 

'  On  nearing  the  bar  it  did  not  seem  to  me  as  very 


184  Riding  the  Pacific  Surges 

dangerous,  so  we  stood  on.  The  first  bar  sea  sped  us 
on,  the  second  one  caught  us,  we  shipped  some  water, 
the  steer  oar  got  jammed,  the  boat  swung  round  broad- 
side to  the  sea  and  went  over.  It  was  in  deep  water  and 
the  seas  were  heavy,  and  for  a  short  time  it  seemed 
as  though  some  of  us  must  be  drowned.  It  is  a  terrible 
place  for  crocodiles,  but  I  suppose  so  many  of  us  in  the 
water  at  once  frightened  them.  The  smashing  in  the 
surf  was  enough  to  kill  us  all. 

'  The  boat's  crew  of  native  students  did  nobly,  and  at 
length  we  got  ashore.  I  feared  at  one  time  that  Romilly 
was  drowning;  and  I  felt  somewhat  exhausted  myself. 
I  fancy  Romilly  must  have  been  struck  with  an  oar. 
The  boys  got  the  boat  in  to  the  beach  after  a  good  hour's 
hard  work.  I  got  three  times  on  to  the  boat's  keel,  and 
each  time  I  was  swept  away  by  the  seas.  At  last  I  got 
an  oar,  and  assisted  by  a  native  reached  a  sandbank,  and 
after  resting-  there  a  little,  reached  the  shore.  A  fire 
was  lighted,  around  which  we  all  gathered,  when  one  of 
the  students  engaged  in  prayer,  and  with  full  hearts  we 
all  joined  him  in  thanksgiving.  During  the  night  things 
were  washed  ashore  and  amongst  them  my  swag.  We 
remained  by  the  fire  all  night.  The  teacher,  on  hearing 
of  what  had  happened,  brought  us  a  change  each,  but 
being  a  small  man  there  were  difficulties  in  using  what 
he  brought.  The  next  morning  we  pulled  through  the 
surf,  and  got  on  board  the  cutter,  and  ran  to  Manumanu. 
We  all  felt  sore  and  unfit  for  much  exertion.  I  spent 
the  Sunday  ashore  at  the  teacher's  and  had  two  services. 

'  Don't  moralize  on  the  foregoing  and  say,  "  Rash  man." 
Yes,  I  am,  but  have  been  blessed  and  successful  in  all 
kinds  of  hazards  for  the  last  eleven  years  in  this  land. 
No  use  talking ;  I  will  do  it  again,  I  must  do  it  again  and 
again,  hoping  to  get  through  all  right.  I  am  exceedingly 


'THE   BOAT   SWUNG  AND  WENT   OVER" 


A  Terrible  Landing  185 

cautious,  especially  when  others  are  with  me ;  but  there 
is  such  a  thing  as  excess  of  caution.' 

The  last  incident  of  the  kind  we  describe  is  one  in 
which  Mr.  Chalmers  and  his  second  wife  were  concerned. 
It  illustrates  the  hardships  missionaries'  wives  often  so 
bravely  meet.  Fever  had  grievously  injured  Mrs. 
Chalmers's  health  and  a  visit  to  Port  Moresby  became 
necessary  in  May,  1889.  The  journey,  made  in  the  whale- 
boat  from  Motumotu,  was  one  of  the  worst  that  even 
Tamate  had  ever  made.  But  it  illustrates  his  great  skill 
in  handling  a  boat  in  the  wild  Papuan  surf  and  his  nerve 
at  a  critical  moment.  '  The  long  journey  in  the  boat,' 
writes  Mrs.  Chalmers,  '  was  terrible.  The  first  morning 
we  were  nearly  upset,  and  shipped  a  big  sea.  I  was 
drenched.  Everything  was  wet  through  and  completely 
ruined ;  most  of  our  provisions  were  spoilt  too.  Well, 
Tamate  wrapped  me  in  a  blanket,  and  there  I  had  to 
remain  till  sundown.  All  day  there  was  a  rough,  nasty 
sea,  and  very  heavy  swell,  but  the  wind  and  current 
fortunately  were  in  our  favour.  I  thought  at  times  that 
the  waves  must  engulf  us,  but  the  little  boat  rose  to 
them  splendidly ;  sometimes  she  seemed  almost  per- 
pendicular, and  then  down  into  a  deep  trough,  with 
waves  as  high  as  a  house  behind  and  before. 

'  Arriving  off  Maiva  we  were  warned  not  to  land — the 
boiling  surf  looked  dreadful  right  along  the  beach. 
Two  splendid  fellows  swam  out  to  us  and  said  we  could 
not  land  in  safety.  Tamate  nearly  lost  his  life  here 
years  ago,  when  he  attempted  to  run  the  boat  ashore  in 
such  a  sea.  It  was  sunset,  I  was  ill  and  wet,  we  had  had 
nothing  all  day  but  biscuits  and  water,  the  wind  was 
now  right  ahead,  and  the  boys  would  have  to  pull  to 
Delena,  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  off.  Tamate  said  that  it 
looked  like  a  stormy  night,  and  SO  he  determined  to  risk 


i86  Riding  the  Pacific  Surges 

the  run  in,  especially  as  we  now  had  two  fresh  men  to 
pull.  I  sat  straight  up  and  threw  off  the  blankets.  I 
think  the  excitement  cured  my  sickness  and  headache. 
Before  turning  the  boat  for  the  boiling  surf,  Tamate 
said :  "  Now,  Lizzie,  in  a  surf  like  this,  the  boat,  if  she 
goes  at  all,  will  turn  right  over,  so  do  not  cling  to  it,  but 
keep  clear  of  her  if  possible.  The  boys  and  every  one 
will  think  first  of  you :  and  if  we  get  ashore  alive,  never 
mind  if  all  goes.  The  anchor  will  fall  out  and  keep 
the  boat." 

'Then  we  faced  it.  The  men  were  so  excited,  but 
Tamate  and  Naimi  timed  the  pulling  well.  We  got 
over  the  first  line  of  surf  all  right,  and  there  was  a  great 
shout  from  shore ;  then  a  second  and  third  line  were 
crossed  successfully  ;  in  the  last  line  we  were  a  little 
too  late,  and  should  have  been  washed  back^  and, 
meeting  the  next  breaker,  have  been  swamped,  but 
dozens  of  the  natives  rushed  in  up  to  their  necks  and 
dragged  us  on  to  the  beach.  We  were  pretty  wet, 
but  thankful.' 


CHAPTER   XIII 

LIFE  ON  A  LAKATOI 

ONCE  a  year  the  natives  of  Port  Moresby,  in  great 
canoes  called  lakatois,  make  a  voyage  to  the  west  for 
sago.  For  many  weeks  before  large  quantities  of  pottery 
are  made  which  is  to  be  exchanged  in  due  time  for  sago. 
The  men  have  nothing  whatever  to  do  with  the  manu- 
facture of  these  things  ;  the  art  belongs  entirely  to  the 
female  portion  of  the  community.  The  men  are,  how- 
ever, busy  getting  their  canoes  together,  working  all 
day  and  at  night  poling  them  well  out,  where  the  man 
who  is  captain  sleeps  with  a  few  others.  There  are  six 
officers  in  all — one  fore  and  one  aft,  two  for  the  mast 
and  two  for  the  sail.  For  a  long  time  the  captain  has 
been  observing  ceremonies  which  have  made  him  sacred. 

In  the  morning  at  sunrise  the  lakatoi  is  brought  in 
for  construction.  Four  large  canoes  are  lashed  together, 
then  bulwarks  are  made  from  leaves  of  the  Nipa  palm, 
sewn  together,  well  fastened  with  long,  strong  mangrove 
poles,  and  caulked  with  dry  banana  leaves.  A  stage  is 
made  all  round,  so  that  the  sailors  can  work  her  without 
getting  inside  the  bulwarks.  Masts  of  mangrove  with 
the  roots  are  stepped  on  to  the  centre,  and  large  sails, 
made  of  mats  sewn  together  and  shaped  like  crab  toes, 
are  fixed  for  working  with  ropes  made  from  the  bark 
of  the  large  yellow  hibiscus.  The  anchor  is  a  large  stone 
made  fast  with  long  canes,  which  are  sometimes  100 
fathoms  in  length.  Fore  and  aft  are  small  covered-in 
houses  strong  enough  to  withstand  a  very  heavy  sea, 


i88  Life  on  a  Lakatoi 

where  the  captain,  mates,  and  boatswains  sleep  and  smoke. 
There  are  strong  divisions  of  wicker-work  in  each  canoe, 
into  which  pottery  is  put,  each  division  having  an  owner. 
The  pottery  is  well  packed  with  dried  banana  leaves, 
and  only  when  thrown  ashore  in  a  gale  do  they  have 
much  breakage. 

A  day  or  two  before  leaving  they  sail  about  the 
harbour  racing, — with  all  the  young  swells,  male  and 
female,  dressed  in  the  height  of  New  Guinea  fashion,  on 
board, — and  then  they  have  a  hearty  song  with  drums 
beating  and  bodies  and  grass  petticoats  swaying — 
altogether  making  a  very  pretty  picture. 

At  last  the  cargo  is  on  board,  and,  the  wind  being 
favourable,  the  crew  pull  out  a  mile  or  two  to  windward, 
then  set  sail  and  away,  with  a  fine  breeze  following  fast, 
whilst  friends  at  home  remain  to  weep.  The  men  most 
worked  are  the  steerers.  Of  these  there  are  several, 
with  large  paddles,  standing  aft,  whilst  the  others  are 
drum-beating  and  singing. 

When  the  port  whither  the  traders  are  bound  is 
reached  they  are  received  with  great  delight ;  pigs  and 
dogs  are  killed  for  the  reception  feast,  after  which  they 
distribute  their  pottery,  to  be  paid  for  when  they  are 
ready  to  take  their  return  journey.  They  sleep  on  the 
lakatoi,  their  shore  friends  cooking  them  food  and  taking 
it  to  them.  The  first  month  they  do  nothing  but  enjoy 
themselves  ;  after  that  they  ascend  the  rivers,  cut  down 
large  trees,  and  make  canoes  of  them,  to  take  home  on 
their  return  journey  laden  with  sago.  When  they  return 
they  will  have  as  many  as  fourteen  or  fifteen  canoes  for 
one  lakatoi,  making  it  very  cumbersome.  In  rough 
weather  these  canoes  labour  fearfully,  and  often  they  have 
to  cut  all  away  but  two,  in  which  they  save  their  lives ; 
sometimes  they  are  wrecked  and  never  heard  of  more. 


Tamate  sails  on  the  'Kevaubada*      189 

Since  New  Guinea  has  been  open  to  mission  work  the 
natives  go  on  these  trading  voyages  much  better  equipped 
than  formerly,  taking  with  them  tomahawks,  knives, 
beads,  looking-glasses,  red  cloth,  and  tobacco.  They 
return  with  many  tons  of  sago,  which  they  dispose  of  to 
Tupuselei,  Kaile,  Kapakapa,  Hula,  and  Kerepunu,  the 
natives  of  these  parts  paying  them  in  arm-shells  and 
other  native  articles. 

In  1883  Tamate  sailed  west  from  Port  Moresby  on 
one  of  these  lakatois — certainly  at  that  period  the  first 
and  only  white  man  who  had  ventured,  or  who  would  have 
thought  of  venturing,  upon  such  a  novel  and  dangerous 
experience.  The  following  incidents  are  from  the  journal 
he  kept  at  the  time. 

'  Oct.  5,  1883. — Long  before  daylight,  sounds  of  weep- 
ing and  wailing  came  from  the  village,  and  we  knew 
that  at  last  the  sago  traders  to  the  west  were  really  going 
to  start.  Long  have  I  had  a  desire  to  take  a  trip  in  one 
of  the  lakatois,  so  yesterday  I  took  my  passage  on  board 
the  "  Kevaubada,"  commanded  by  Vaaburi  and  Aruako, 
and  was  therefore  early  astir  this  morning.  A  few  tears 
and  a  little  wailing  awaited  my  exit.  Saying  good-bye 
to  friends,  I  took  the  whaleboat  and  followed  the  canoes, 
which  had  left  some  time  before,  and  joined  mine  about 
two  miles  from  Port  Moresby.  Many  friends  were  there 
to  bid  farewell  to  the  adventurous  spirits  who  for  at 
least  four  months  would  be  absent  from  their  homes. 
Wood  and  water  were  put  on  board,  sails  were  squared, 
and  then  began  a  terrible  scene,  weeping,  howling,  tear- 
ing hair,  scratching  faces  until  the  blood  flowed,  clasping 
dear  ones  in  long  embraces ;  wives  their  husbands ; 
children  their  parents ;  and  young  ladies  their  future 
husbands.  It  was  enough  to  melt  a  stony  heart. 

'  At  Idler's  Bay  we  parted  with  the  last  of  our  friends, 


IQO  Life  on  a  Lakatoi 

and  there  tears  were  dried  up  and  the  ocean-singing 
began  in  right  earnest.  The  laughing  and  joking  was, 
however,  strained,  and  not  the  hearty  outburst  of  joyous 
hearts.  The  company  in  our  craft  were  thirty-five  all 
told.  Our  lakatoi  consisted  of  four  large  canoes  lashed 
together,  with  good  bulwarks  made  of  leaves  strongly 
bound  together  with  mangrove  saplings.  We  had  two 
masts  of  mangrove,  stepped  on  top  of  the  canoes  with 
stays  and  backstays  of  rattan  cane.  Our  sails  were  made 
of  mats  and  shaped  like  the  large  crab-claw.  Fore  and 
aft  were  good-sized  houses,  made  of  wood,  and  packed 
full  of  pottery.  Running  right  round  was  a  platform 
two-and-a-half  feet  wide. 

4  The  canoes  were  full  of  pottery,  and  in  the  centre, 
between  the  masts,  was  a  large  crate  also  full.  On  the 
top  of  the  crate  were  two  planks  covered  with  a  mat,  and 
on  these  I  slept.  Close  by  me  was  Vaaburi,  who  seldom 
or  ever  spoke,  and  who,  until  we  passed  Idler's  Bay, 
kept  himself  covered  with  a  blanket ;  and  on  the  other 
side  was  Keroro,  a  lad  of  ten  years,  who  was  acting  for 
Aruako,  and  who  was  also  considered  sacred.  Hanging 
close  by  each  was  a  small  pot,  in  which  was  good-wind 
and  favourable -weather  medicine,  consisting  of  burnt 
banana  leaves.  They  told  me  that  although  it  was  a 
good  breeze  it  was  impossible  for  the  lakatoi  to  sail  well 
to-day,  as  there  was  too  much  feeling  with  the  friends 
left  behind,  but  to-morrow  I  should  see  what  could 
be  done. 

4  We  went  about  four  knots  an  hour.  We  had  several 
boys  on  board;  each  had  his  station,  and  was  kept 
pretty  constantly  baling.  About  eleven  p.m.  we  anchored 
eight  miles  east  of  Hall  Sound.  All  were  tired,  and 
throats  were  very  sore  from  singing  so  much,  so  there 
was  no  need  to  drone  to  sleep. 


A  Dilatory  Start  191 

*  Oct.  6. — Not  early  awake,  as  when  we  rose  the  sun 
had  already  appeared  in  his  gigantic  striding  over  the 
high  mountains  of  the  Stanley  Range.  We  have  on 
board  several  church  members,  and  before  turning-to  we 
had  morning  service,  and  then  breakfast,  when  we  poled 
in  towards  the  shore  reef,  where  all  the  young  men 
landed  to  get  wood,  cane,  and  a  large  stone,  to  be  used 
as  an  anchor.  They  did  all  heartily,  and  seem  to  have 
got  over  the  parting  of  yesterday. 

4  All  is  ready  for  a  start ;  but  we  have  to  wait  for  wind, 
so  the  crew  are  spending  their  time  in  going  over  their 
wealth.  What  a  collection !  Arm-shells,  large  and 
small ;  tomahawks,  old  and  new ;  beads,  foreign  and 
native  ;  cloth  of  all  colours,  nose -jewels,  frontlets  and 
breastplates.  All  exhibit  their  treasures  in  rotation. 

'  Noon. — I  insist  on  leaving,  so  up  sails,  in  with  the 
cane  hawsers,  and  we  clear  away,  soon  followed  by 
others.  Nobody  seems  master  on  this  craft,  and  I  fancy 
all  do  as  they  like.  Orders  are  given  with  great  hesi- 
tancy, and  in  such  a  manner  as  if  the  giver  were  doubtful 
whether  they  would  be  attended  to.  Some  wish  to 
return  and  wait,  and  I  fancy  would  be  glad  of  an  excuse 
to  go  back.  To  them  this  journey  of  200  miles  is  some- 
thing awful.  The  excuse  is  that  the  wind  is  not  strong 
enough.  I  am  asked  to  give  orders  for  a  short  time,  but 
decline,  as  I  am  anxious  to  see  how  they  will  act.  All 
I  insist  on  is  that  they  keep  on,  and  on  no  account  dilly- 
dally so  as  to  lose  the  wind.  They  have  become  very 
scrupulous  about  Sunday,  and  are  anxious  to  put  into 
Delena ;  but  I  explain  to  them  the  day  can  be  more 
quietly  and  profitably  spent  at  sea. 

'  We  were  well  under  way,  and  I  was  standing  on  my 
deck  bunk — dinner  being  spread  for  the  crew — when 
Aruako,  an  old  robber-chief,  who  was  the  cause  of  much 


192  Life  on  a  Lakatoi 

suffering  all  along-  this  coast  in  past  years,  said, "  Tamate, 
would  you  sit  down  for  a  little  until  I  ask  God's  blessing 
on  this  food,  that  my  boys  may  eat  ? " 

'When  in  front  of  Hall  Sound  entrance,  the  lakatoi 
was  brought  right  up  in  the  wind,  and  Aruako  took  his 
little  nephew  by  the  hand  and  handed  him  two  wisps  of 
cassowary  feathers,  stood  in  front  shaking  them  with 
a  peculiar  motion  of  the  body,  and  turning  to  the  fore- 
mast did  the  same,  then  came  aft,  and  turning  to  the 
mainmast  went  through  the  same  performance.  When 
breaking  her  off  again  all  shouted,  as  if  driving  some- 
thing away. 

'  A  long  while  ago,  it  seems,  the  Motuans,  to  keep  an 
open  coast,  killed  many  Loloans,  who  had  interfered 
with  one  of  their  canoes,  and  since  then  the  Lolo  spirits 
have  been  troublesome  in  that  one  place,  detaining  the 
lakatois.  Hence  the  above  incantation  was  necessary  in 
order  to  drive  them  away.  We  were  successful,  and  got 
beyond  the  passage  all  right,  the  tide  being  on  the  slack 
at  the  time. 

'Immediately  afterwards,  several  bunches  of  bananas 
were  brought  to  each  mast,  and  these  formerly  would  have 
been  presented  as  a  thank-offering  and  peace-offering 
to  the  spirits  of  their  ancestors.  And  I  doubt  not  they 
were  so  considered  in  many  minds  now.  It  was  only 
the  church  members  who  sought  a  blessing  on  food  from 
Him  Whom  they  profess  to  love  and  serve.  All  are 
very  busy  scraping  bananas,  cleaning  pots,  and  getting 
water. 

'Nothing  is  thrown  overboard;  the  banana  skin  is 
carefully  kept,  to  be  thrown  into  any  river  we  may 
enter.  To  throw  anything  overboard  now  would  be 
a  terrible  crime,  and  cause  the  spirits  to  oppose  us  in 
every  way.  Unfortunately,  I  cannot  remember  this,  and 


Sunday  on  a  Lakatoi  193 

often  offend  them  by  throwing  overboard  banana-skin 
and  cocoanut-shell. 

'  At  sunset  we  were  off  Maiva ;  the  other  lakatois  put 
into  Delena. 

'  Sunday,  Oct.  7. — During-  the  night  there  was  very 
little  wind  and  at  daybreak  we  were  only  off  Oiabu, 
round  Cape  Possession.  All  night  long  singing  and 
drumming  were  continued,  so  now  that  it  is  morning 
all  are  quiet  and  many  asleep.  We  are  nearing  lokea, 
and  hope  to  have  communication.  The  wind  entirely 
failed,  and  after  pulling  for  two  hours  we  found  we  were 
going  back  with  the  strong  current ;  so  out  anchor,  with 
about  thirty  fathoms  of  cane  rope.  The  cane  is  made 
fast  to  the  mast.  After  anchoring,  all  are  assembled ; 
and  we  have  a  very  pleasant  service,  conducted  chiefly 
by  the  Motuans.  It  was  short,  but  I  think  to  the  point. 
Many  of  the  Motuans  have  a  tendency  to  exceedingly 
long  prayers,  but  to-day,  having  been  told  beforehand, 
they  were  short  and  precise,  not  wandering  over  many 
fields. 

'Afternoon. — We  have  been  anxiously  waiting  for 
wind,  but,  alas,  that  commodity  seems  scarce  indeed, 
so  we  are  still  at  anchor,  and  have  another  short  interest- 
ing service.  I  fear  there  is  no  chance  of  a  start  to-day, 
and  some  are  now  talking  of  a  hunt  to-morrow.  In  the 
evening  we  heaved  anchor,  and  dropped  down  with  the 
tide  nearer  the  village,  to  be  ready  to  get  wood  and 
water  in  the  morning. 

'  Oct.  8. — Early  in  the  morning  we  saw  the  other 
canoes  very  far  out,  and  bearing  away  for  Maclatchie 
Point.  The  Porebada  and  Tatana  canoes  have  just 
anchored  close  by  us.  A  small  canoe  came  off  from  the 
shore,  and  in  it  three  old  friends  with  cocoanuts.  We 
got  some  sago  cake  and  cocoanuts,  also  some  water; 

N 


1Q4  Life  on  a  Lakatoi 

and  then  went  on  board  for  a  start,  to  prevent  any 
hunting-.  This  is  the  beginning  of  Elema,  and  the 
beginning  of  nose-rubbing.  Sharp  noses  would  soon 
be  flattened  in  this  district,  and  it  would  be  as  well  to 
carry  a  small  pocket-looking-glass,  as  the  face-colours 
are  very  varied. 

'  About  twelve  we  became  alive,  bade  farewell  to  our 
friends,  up  sail,  in  anchor,  and  were  away  again.  We  had 
a  fine  breeze,  but  a  strong1  current  against  us.  Near 
sundown  we  were  off  Motumotu,  and  saw  the  Tatana 
and  Porebada  lakatois  enter  the  river.  Our  sail  gave 
way,  so  it  had  to  be  lowered  for  repairs,  but  these  were 
soon  executed.  All  the  food  to  be  cooked  for  the  crew 
is  first  placed  close  by  the  masts.  To-night  several 
bunches  were  so  placed  and  presented  to  the  spirits, 
that  we  might  get  along  quicker.  The  current  is  very 
strong  against  us,  and  the  wind  is  light.  Instead  of 
following  the  old  customs,  they  consent  to  one  of  the 
church  members  engaging  in  prayer.  The  singing  and 
drum-beating  continues,  and  hopes  are  great  that  we 
shall  anchor  to-morrow  at  Vailala  or  Perau,  on  the 
Annie  River. 

'  Oct.  9. — We  have  had  the  strong  current  all  night, 
and  a  light  easterly  wind.  This  morning  the  wind  is 
so  light  that  the  long  paddles  are  out  and  several  are 
pulling  hard.  Last  night,  about  nine,  we  were  close 
alongside  a  large  schooner  beating  to  the  eastward. 
I  had  turned  in,  thinking  the  light  we  saw  was  one  of 
the  other  lakatois,  so  we  kept  away  from  her,  but  not 
long  after  there  was  a  terrific  shout,  Nao,  nao  (foreigner), 
so  I  sprang  up,  and  found  we  were  close  under  the 
schooner.  I  hailed  her,  but  all  we  could  make  out  was 
that  she  was  from  Thursday  Island. 

*  Soon  after,  I  went  to  sleep,  but  not  for  long,  as  I  was 


Troublesome  Visitors  195 

aroused  by  those  on  duty,  who  must  have  thought  the 
bay  was  full  of  foreign  vessels,  as  they  reported  more 
lights.  This  time  the  lights  were  from  the  lakatois  we 
had  seen  far  out  in  the  morning,  and  who,  finding  the 
current  too  strong,  stood  in.  We  were  then  close  to 
the  Cupola  and  near  to  Uamai  and  Silo.  We  spoke  the 
lakatois,  and  then  instructions  were  given  for  no  more 
lights  to  be  shown  and  no  more  singing,  as  the  natives 
from  the  shore  might  see  us  and  come  off  in  canoes  and 
take  us,  in  order  to  rob  us  of  the  pottery. 

'About  midnight  one  of  the  canoes  put  about  and 
bore  down,  wishing  all  to  turn  back  to  Karama  and 
Motumotu,  because  of  the  strong  current.  Our  people 
said,  "  No  ;  pull  away  till  morning:  we  have  Tamate  on 
board,  and  must  do  our  best  to  get  to  Vailala."  They 
stood  on,  and  then  the  others  followed.  Had  I  not  been 
on  board,  the  whole  party  would  have  gone  back  to  the 
above  places. 

'  We  have  no  wind,  and  make  little  progress  pulling. 
Some  canoes  came  off  from  Pisi  and  Kerema,  and  tried 
hard  to  persuade  us  to  go  to  them ;  but  no  use,  we  are 
bound  further  west.  They  are  gone  to  try  their  fortune 
with  the  other  canoes.  We  are  pulling,  and  only  just 
able  to  hold  our  own  against  the  current.  A  large 
fighting  canoe  is  coming  towards  us,  and  our  folks  seem 
much  concerned.  They  ask  Johnnie,  my  boy  from  the 
east  end,  to  get  his  old  fowling-piece  charged,  so  as  to 
be  ready ;  but  he  takes  no  notice,  and  they  are  afraid 
to  appeal  to  me. 

'  We  have  been  boarded  by  a  noisy,  impudent  lot. 
Before  they  approached,  our  boys  hid  all  their  valuables. 
As  they  neared  I  saw  that  our  visitors  were  making  for 
the  bow,  so  I  ordered  them  aft,  and  called  out  that  they 
must  not  come  on  board.  They  seemed  prepared  to 

N  2 


196  Life  on  a  Lakatoi 

fight ;  bows  and  arrows  were  all  handy  on  the  platform, 
fighting  armlets  were  on,  and  a  few  had  their  clubs 
hanging  on  their  backs.  They  said  they  had  come  for 
us,  and  that  Tamate  and  the  lakatoi  must  go  with  them. 
I  told  them,  "  No,  Tamate  must  go  to  Vailala,  and  on  to 
Namau."  They  replied,  "  You  will  not  go  on  ;  we  shall 
keep  you."  Their  canoe  came  close,  and  two  of  them 
stepped  on  board,  giving  orders  to  make  for  their  place. 
One  of  them  seized  me,  and  rubbed  noses,  and  begged  of 
me,  as  his  friend,  to  land.  "  No,  I  will  go  on ;  I  shall  not 
go  in  here." 

'The  strangers  became  very  excited,  and  looked 
nasty ;  but  our  people  were  beginning  to  look  as  nasty, 
especially  Aruako,  the  robber-chief.  I  was  anxious  to 
avoid  a  collision,  as  this  would  make  it  unpleasant  for  me 
afterwards.  A  piece  of  rope  fell  into  the  water,  and  was 
picked  up  by  them.  Their  canoe  being  close  enough, 
Aruako  stepped  into  it  and  took  it  from  them,  when 
one  of  them  seized  his  club.  Aruako  looked  black  and 
fierce,  and  asked  if  they  wanted  to  fight,  for  if  they  did 
just  say  so,  and  they  would  have  plenty.  His  first  action 
would  be  to  break  up  their  canoe,  and  then  with  arrows 
to  shoot  them  down.  M  No,  no,  we  do  not  wish  to  fight ; 
but,  great  chief,  your  lakatoi  must  come  to  us.  Our 
wives  say  we  are  weak  and  worthless,  hence  we  have 
no  lakatoi,  and  they  have  sent  us  oft"  We  insisted  on 
their  leaving;  and,  anxious  they  should  do  so  without 
a  threat,  I  addressed  my  new  friend,  and  told  him  they 
must  not  press  on  us,  as  I  must  go  to  Vailala.  Again 
we  rubbed  noses ;  he  asked  me  for  an  uro,  and  as  I  had 
none  he  begged  for  a  piece  of  cloth.  I  took  off  my 
shirt,  which  wanted  washing,  and  gave  it  to  him,  and 
so  saved  myself  trouble  with  soap  and  water.  Again 
we  rubbed  noses,  spoke  of  sincere  friendship,  they 


"ARUAKO    LOOKED    BLACK    AND    ASKED    IF    THEY 
WANTED  TO  FIGHT" 


Natives  levying  Blackmail  197 

got  into  the  canoe  and  left  us,  saying,  "  It  is  good ; 
Tamate  go." 

"  Our  visitors  then  made  for  another  lakatoi,  about  two 
miles  from  us,  and  they  were  joined  by  two  more  canoes 
from  Pisi.  We  cannot  help  them,  so  they  must  make 
the  best  of  it.  The  plan  these  natives  adopt  is  to  board 
the  lakatois,  and  if  they  are  strong  enough  they  take 
everything  of  value,  and  so  compel  their  victims  to  go 
with  them.  They  say  they  will  pay  well  for  everything 
taken.  If  the  Motuans  resist  of  course  a  fight  takes  place. 
The  natives  from  the  shore  will  be  ashamed  to  return  if 
they  do  not  succeed  in  getting  something,  and  they  will 
probably  visit  Kerema,  on  the  other  side  of  the  harbour, 
where  two  lakatois  have  already  gone,  and  quarrel  with 
them,  in  order  to  show  their  wives  that  they  have  done 
their  best.  They  are  very  eager  to  get  pottery  to  cook 
their  food  in,  and  that  they  may  have  hot  water  (gravy) 
to  drink. 

'  We  are  moving  on.  It  seems  that  what  brought 
Aruako  aft  was  a  remark  he  overheard  from  some  one 
in  the  canoe,  "  What  can  Motu  do  if  we  use  our  weapons 
—will  they  live  ? "  He  then  came  aft  and  said,  "  What 
do  you  say  ?  Are  you  ashore,  that  you  speak  so  ?  Say 
more,  and  you  will  have  to  swim  ashore.'  And  seeing 
the  piece  of  rope,  he  stepped  into  the  canoe ;  and  the 
man  in  front,  fearing  he  was  going  to  carry  out  his 
words,  drew  his  club.  Of  course  all  our  boys  pose  now 
the  bravest  of  the  brave.  I  fear  the  other  canoe  is  in 
much  trouble,  and  they  are  now  making  for  Pisi.  We 
are  nearing  Vailala,  and  for  the  first  time  yams  have  been 
cooked — a  sign  they  hope  to  get  in  to-night. 

*  Oct.  10. — Two  canoes  got  in  to  Vailala  before  us 
yesterday.  We  got  in  about  seven  p.m.,  making  the 
passage  after  dark.  What  excitement !  We  hoped  for 


198  Life  on  a  Lakatoi 

a  clear  sunset,  but  the  sun  disappeared  behind  a  thick 
covering  ere  taking  his  nightly  bath.  When  nearing  the 
passage,  orders  were  many,  and  great  were  the  prepara- 
tions made.  We  must  go  in  on  the  other  tack.  "  'Bout 
ship,"  and  all  young  fellows  were  warned  to  keep  to 
their  stations,  fore-and-aft  men  stand  with  paddles,  the 
hawsers  are  all  got  ready  to  be  thrown  to  the  crowd 
standing  on  the  point,  who  were  to  pull  us  over  the 
bank  and  up  the  stream.  The  deep  passage  was  avoided, 
as  the  wind  was  light  and  the  river-current  strong. 

'  When  I  heard  that  the  hawser  was  to  be  handed  ashore, 
I  gathered  my  books  and  a  few  things  I  wished  to  keep 
dry  together,  intending  if  possible  to  get  them  ashore. 
For  I  expected  nothing  but  a  general  smash-up  of  the 
lakatoi  in  the  great  white  surf  on  the  bar.  I  looked 
steadily  ahead;  on  she  goes,  up,  down.  All  around  us 
are  terrific  breakers.  Ah!  there  it  is  now;  one  sea  has 
boarded  us ;  we  are  right  in  the  breakers  ;  shore-lights 
are  guiding  us,  everybody  is  shouting;  one  man  is 
calling  on  his  ancestors  and  talking  to  the  wild  seas, 
and  saying,  "  Oh,  my  lakatoi,  my  lakatoi ;  oh,  my  lakatoi 
will  be  broken."  Well  done,  she  is  on  the  bank.  I  now 
see  that  they  all  know  what  they  are  about.  Hallo! 
a  terrific  sea;  she  swings  broadside  to  the  sea  but  is 
soon  righted.  A  loud  voice  calls  out,  "  Boys,  don't  be 
afraid,  keep  to  your  stations."  She  is  away,  sails  are 
drawing,  and  the  excitement  is  getting  greater.  There 
is  much  shouting  fore  and  aft,  some  are  calling  out, 
"  Pray,  oh,  pray  !  "  Forward  we  go  on  the  tops  of  the 
seas  ;  nearer,  still  nearer  to  the  beach ;  the  men  on  the 
shore  are  close  by ;  what  now  ? 

4  The  hawser  is  dropped  and  we  are  aground.  There 
is  one  great  rush  on  to  the  platform  and  over  the 
bulwarks,  fore  and  aft,  regardless  of  the  lakatoi  coming 


Landing  at  Vailala  199 

to  grief.  About  150  men  have  boarded  us,  shouting, 
yelling,  and  rubbing-  noses.  What  is  it  ?  In  the  dark 
one  might  think  a  certain  undesirable  region  had  opened 
wide  its  portals  and  that  the  imprisoned  got  free.  Oh 
no,  they  are  all  excited  friends  ;  with  joy  overflowing  at 
meeting  us.  All  is  right  now.  The  majority  step 
overboard  into  the  surf,  seize  the  hawser,  and  soon  walk 
us  away  into  calm  water,  and  up  the  river  to  the  village. 
We  are  all  right;  with  no  damage  done,  not  even 
a  wetting. 

'  Friends  innumerable  claim  me.  Alas,  alas !  I  cannot 
say  I  like  this  nose-rubbing;  and,  having-  no  looking- 
glass,  I  cannot  tell  the  state  of  my  face.  Promiscuous 
kissing  with  white  folks,  male  or  female,  is  mightily 
insipid — but  this !  When  your  nose  is  flattened,  or  at 
a  peculiar  angle,  and  your  face  one  mass  of  pigment! 
Cover  over  the  scene  and  say  no  more. 

*  When  getting  near  the  village  a  canoe  came  down  to 
us,  and  there  was  soon  on  board  my  old  friend  Avea, 
calling  out,  "Tamate,  where  are  Misi  Lao  and  Misi 
Haine  ?  "  (Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lawes).  "  I  thought  they  were 
to  have  been  here  long-  ago."  I  could  not  see  the  face 
in  the  dark,  but  I  knew  the  voice  well.  "  Let  me  go, 
Avea;  this  hugging  business  on  an  empty  stomach 
is  bad." 

'The  excitement  was  something  terrible — shouting, 
bawling,  screaming,  kept  up  until  ten  p.m.,  when  I  landed 
and  made  myself  comfortable  on  the  roomy  verandah  or 
platform  of  a  large  dubu.  The  people  in  the  dubu 
received  many  instructions  concerning  me,  and  were 
warned  to  be  quiet  and  treat  me  well. 

'  So  ended  my  trip  on  board  the  Motu  lakatoi,  "  Kevau- 
bada."  I  enjoyed  it  much;  it  was  unique,  and  I  shall 
not  soon  forget  the  kindness  of  all  on  board.  They 


2oo  Life  on  a  Lakatoi 

managed  their  cumbersome  craft  well,  and  would  do  so, 
I  doubt  not,  in  much  worse  weather  than  we  had. 
I  was  more  comfortable  than  I  could  have  been  on  board 
the  whaleboat,  in  which  I  have  often  to  make  long- 
voyages.  We  had  not  been  in  long  when  it  blew  hard 
from  the  east,  and  about  one  a.m.  it  began  to  rain  and 
continued  until  daylight,  a  true  torrid  zone  downpour. 

'  What  a  day  the  next  was !  These  people  need  much 
to  be  taught,  constantly  taught,  that  "  the  merciful  man 
is  merciful  to  his  beast."  On  board  the  canoes,  goods 
were  early  disposed  of;  arm-shells  large  and  small, 
tomahawks,  native  beads,  shirts,  and  other  articles  were 
given  away,  each  going  to  his  own  particular  friend. 
And  now  the  slaughtering  or  murdering  in  preparation 
for  the  friendly  feast  is  going  on.  Several  dogs  have 
departed  this  life.  They  were  caught  by  the  hind  legs 
and  their  brains  dashed  out  against  the  canoes.  Horns 
have  been  blowing,  and  pigs,  some  large,  others  of 
ordinary  size,  have  been  brought  in  well  bound,  and 
hanging  on  poles  have  had  their  skulls  smashed  with 
pieces  of  wood  or  stone  clubs.  It  is  so  horrible  that 
I  dare  not  taste  pork,  but  my  expostulations  are  only 
laughed  at.  They  seem  drunken  with  dogs  and  swine, 
and  to  care  for  nothing  else.  Inside  the  bulwarks 
there  is  a  terrible  mess — betel-nuts,  pepper,  cocoanuts, 
old  and  young,  and  sago,  cooked  and  uncooked,  with 
natives  squatting  everywhere.  Now  is  feasting  time. 
After  a  few  days  canoe-cutting  will  begin,  and  in  return 
for  the  things  now  given  the  natives  of  Vailala  will  help, 
and  when  the  new  canoes  leave  give  payment  in  sago 
over  and  above  that  received  all  the  time  the  lakatois  are 
here.  All  the  pottery  that  has  been  brought  from  Port 
Moresby  is  disposed  of  last  of  all. 

'  My  quarters  are  not  at  all  bad.    The  dubu  is  large, 


Close  of  the  Voyage  201 

about  fifty  feet  in  height  in  front ;  the  platform  I  am  on 
is  about  ten  feet  from  the  ground,  and  one  with  the 
flooring  of  the  dubu.  I  am  outside,  preferring  it  for 
light  and  air ;  and  hanging  all  round  there  are  charms 
large  and  small,  nets  used  for  river  and  surf  fishing,  and 
fish-traps  made  like  foolscaps  of  the  spines  of  the  sago 
frond,  bows  and  arrows,  and  a  few  clubs.' 

Thus  ended  one  of  the  most  daring  and  striking 
episodes  in  Tamate's  personal  history,  and  in  the  story  of 
New  Guinea  exploration  and  civilization. 


CHAPTER    XIV 

AMONG  THE  CANNIBALS  OF  MAIPUA 

TAMATE  took  the  voyage  described  in  the  last  chapter 
because  he  liked  the  novelty  and  adventure  of  it.  But 
he  always  made  adventure  help  forward  his  great  task 
of  getting  to  know  and  to  become  friendly  with  savages 
he  had  not  yet  met.  Hence  the  end  of  the  voyage  on 
the  lakatoi  was  only  a  starting-point  for  a  visit  he 
was  very  eager  to  pay  to  Orokolo  and  the  fierce 
cannibals  who  dwelt  there.  He  had  no  sooner  landed 
at  Vailala  than  he  began  preparations  for  his  journey 
still  further  west.  His  diary  at  this  time  shows  how 
difficult  it  is  to  enforce  the  white  man's  views  and 
methods  of  work  among  savages.  It  also  records  some 
of  the  most  interesting  of  his  early  experiences  in  the 
Gulf  of  Papua. 

*  I  have  just  had  to  assert  myself,  and  show  my  friends 
here  that  I  must  not  be  hampered.  Having  given  Mama 
and  Apohe  of  Orokolo  presents,  our  dubu  chief  came  up 
and  was  very  angry.  He  scowled,  shouted,  and  talked 
much.  Having  leather  belts,  I  thought  I  would  try 
him,  and  went  to  give  him  one,  pretending  to  think  he 
was  angry  with  some  one  else ;  but  he  gave  me  the  belt 
back.  All  right,  my  friend.  With  savages  I  exercise 
patience.  I  put  the  belt  in  his  bag,  and  then  he  looked 
black  as  a  dark  thundercloud,  and  again  began  shouting 
and  talking  loud,  and  on  my  approaching  him  would 
have  nothing  to  do  with  me.  Now,  I  must  have  liberty 


'  Oh,  Tamate,  stay,  stay '  203 

to  do  as  I  like,  give  to  whom  I  like,  and  go  where  I  like. 
So  it  is  now  my  turn  to  look  black  and  to  speak  loud. 
In  Motu  I  tell  the  crowd  to  stand  out  of  the  way,  and 
then  I  call  on  the  boys  from  the  lakatoi  to  come  at 
once,  and  pick  up  my  things,  and  turning  round  roll  up 
my  mat  and  blanket  to  tie  it  up.  Then  the  old  fellow 
came  back  saying,  "  Oh,  Tamate,  stay,  stay.  I  was  not 
angry  with  you,  but  with  others.  Do  stay  ;  do  not  leave 
me."  He  then  insisted  on  rubbing  noses.  The  boys 
came,  and  I  got  them  to  explain  that  I  came  for  one 
object ;  and  that  if  I  could  not  attain  that,  I  should  return 
with  all  I  have  ;  that  I  must  be  allowed  to  do  as  I  like,  to 
give  what  I  like,  and  to  whomsoever  I  like.  The  old 
fellow  says,  "  All  right,"  and  I  must  not  be  vexed.  Just 
so,  that  was  exactly  what  I  wanted  him  to  say,  and  I  am 
not  at  all  vexed. 

'I  hope  to  start  on  Saturday  for  Orokolo,  spend 
Sunday  there,  and  on  Monday  morning  away  for 
Maipua.  Delay  is  dangerous  with  natives,  and  the 
work  of  to-day  is  left  until  to-morrow,  to-morrow,  the 
everlasting  to-morrow,  which  never  comes,  and  wearies 
the  soul  out  of  all  strength  and  power  of  doing  anything. 
I  would  get  rid  of  to-morrow,  if  to-day  were  only  long 
enough. 

4  Oct.  12, 1883. — Rained,  thundered,  and  blew  all  night. 
My  blanket  was  rather  heavy  this  morning.  The  dubu 
was  well  filled.  The  natives  must  have  been  packed 
sardine  fashion.  This  morning  at  prayers  on  the  plat- 
form Aruadaera  prayed  that  their  young  men  might 
be  saved  from  the  devil's  power,  "and,  if  fishing  in 
the  river  by  and  by,  be  preserved  from  these  devils 
(crocodiles)  floating  about."  Great  is  the  demand  for 
fish-hooks.  They  are  preferred  to  anything  else,  except 
tomahawks.  I  wished  to  get  a  fine  carved  pipe,  and 


2O4       Among  the  Cannibals  of  Maipua 

offered  a  knife,  but  was  refused.     My  boy,  Friday,  got 
it  for  three  fish-hooks. 

'Here  comes  a  swell  in  the  most  fashionable  dress. 
His  woolly  hair  is  tied  well  back,  and  round  it  is  a  circle 
of  bright  red  hibiscus  flowers,  backed  by  a  coronet  of 
beautiful  feathers,  and  enlivened  in  front  with  a  chain 
of  white  shells.  On  his  forehead  is  a  frontlet  of  shells ; 
between  the  eyebrows  a  round  shell,  with  a  finely  cut 
piece  of  tortoise-shell  something  like  a  large  watch- 
wheel,  and  on  each  temple  the  same.  In  his  nose  is 
a  large  piece  of  round  shell,  and  hanging  from  his  ears 
are  various  fancy  pieces  of  tortoise-shell.  His  face  is 
one  mass  of  red  ochre,  and  round  his  neck  is  a  large 
necklace  made  of  small  shells,  and  hanging  underneath 
are  a  crescent-shaped  pearl-shell  and  a  large  boar's  tusk. 
On  his  arms  are  arm-shells  and  wrought  armlets  and 
new  bowstring  guards,  and  round  his  waist  a  large 
carved  belt  made  from  the  bark  of  a  tree  and  coloured 
red  and  white ;  his  trousers  consist  of  a  narrow  stripe 
of  native  cloth  of  various  colours,  and  ends  hanging 
down  in  front,  and  under  his  knees  and  ankles  are  very 
nicely  knitted  garters  and  anklets.  He  feels  himself 
handsome,  and  knows  that  he  is  now  being  admired. 

'  We  have  just  finished  school,  the  first  attempt,  and 
we  have  held  it  on  our  platform.  When  teaching  our 
pupils  to  say  "A"  they  were  convulsed  with  laughter, 
but,  after  a  time,  repeated  that  and  other  letters  well, 
one  handsome  old  gentleman  remembering  so  as  to 
repeat  several  letters  alone.  A  few  years  ago  we 
prepared  a  sheet  of  sentences,  the  Commandments,  and 
Lord's  Prayer  in  their  dialect,  and  we  now  begin  teach- 
ing it  here.  We  sung  A  B  C  to  the  tune  of  "  Auld 
Lang  Syne" ;  all  tried  to  join,  and  it  was  like  a  thunder- 
storm between  two  hills,  or  over  a  city. 


The  Kaevakuku  205 

'•Oct.  13. — I  hoped  to  have  left  to-day  for  Orokolo, 
but  it  is  now  raining  very  steadily,  and  likely  to  con- 
tinue. Should  it  clear  away,  I  will  do  my  utmost  to 
start.  The  natives  have  Kaevakuku,  or  dancing  in 
hideous  face-masks,  here  also.  We  saw  the  men  wearing 
the  masks  first  on  the  other  side,  and,  taking  a  canoe, 
they  crossed,  paddling  themselves.  When  coming  along 
the  beach  from  their  canoe  some  of  the  men  and  all  the 
lads  in  our  dubu  began  shouting.  Then  they  sprang 
down  from  the  platform,  and  ran  away  into  the  bush. 
The  shouting  informed  the  people  in  the  village  of  the 
arrival  of  the  masks,  and  the  place  was  soon  cleared 
of  all  women  and  children. 

4  The  Kaevakuku  are  connected  with  a  sacred  festival, 
and  they  hold  the  power  of  taboo  over  cocoanuts  and 
food  required  for  the  coming  feast.  All  the  men 
engaged  in  Kaevakuku  are  sacred  for  at  least  three 
moons  before  the  feast,  not  seeing  wife  or  children, 
and  not  living  anywhere  near  their  own  houses.  They 
have  large  masks,  two,  three,  four  feet  in  height,  which 
they  wear  when  going  about.  These  masks  are  generally 
shaped  like  a  fool's  cap,  and  the  face  represents  some 
animal  with  a  very  long  mouth  and  teeth.  The  hat 
is  made  with  small  branches,  wickerwork  covered  with 
native  cloth,  painted  white,  red,  and  black.  They  wear 
a  cloak  about  two-and-a-half  feet  long,  and  a  petticoat 
or  kilt  about  eighteen  inches  long,  both  made  from  the 
fibre  of  the  large  yellow  hibiscus.  They  are  not  nearly 
so  imposing  as  the  Maiva  Kaevakukus,  who  look  like 
walking  haystacks  with  large  masks  on  the  top. 

'  I  have  had  to  go  to  a  feast  at  Kaevakuku.  A  large 
crowd  had  assembled  from  the  villages  round,  and  many 
from  Orokolo.  Everywhere  there  was  food,  cooked 
and  uncooked,  in  heaps  and  hanging  on  poles,  chiefly 


206      Among  the  Cannibals  of  Maipua 

sago  prepared  in  every  imaginable  way.  Betel-nuts 
and  pepper  also  abound.  On  the  platform  of  my 
friend  Meka's  dubu  was  a  large  quantity  of  cut-up 
pork,  and  all  around  the  platform  streamers  were  flying, 
made  from  the  young-  sago  frond.  I  stayed  down  with 
the  crowd,  as  I  had  a  better  view  than  from  the  dubu 
platform. 

4 1  had  not  long  to  wait  until  there  came  a  man  dressed 
in  a  tall  hat,  or  mask,  resembling  some  strange  animal 
with  peculiar  mouth  and  sharp  teeth ;  his  cloak  and  kilt 
were  of  yellow  hibiscus  fibre,  and  a  small  stick  was  in 
his  hand.  He  had  come  from  some  distance  back  in  the 
bush,  where,  I  was  told,  many  are  assembled,  and  that 
all  the  masks  and  dresses  I  saw  the  other  day  in  the 
dubu,  with  their  owners,  are  kept  there.  He  danced 
about  for  a  short  time,  when  an  old  man  came  ±>efore 
him  with  a  large  piece  of  pork,  gave  it  to  him,  and 
he  went  away,  followed  by  two  young-  men  carrying 
a  long  pole  of  food,  sago,  cocoanuts,  betel-nuts,  and 
pepper. 

'  Another  Kaevakuku  followed  and  did  the  same  as  the 
first,  this  time  in  the  dubu ;  the  conch- shell  is  being 
blown  as  for  a  pig,  and  soon  a  live  one  appears  on 
a  pole  between  two  men.  It  was  placed  on  the  ground, 
Kaevakuku  dancing  round  and  over  it,  when  a  bow 
and  arrow  were  presented  to  him,  and  he  backed  a  little, 
said  something,  let  fly,  and  the  pig  soon  breathed  his 
last.  The  two  men  picked  the  pig  up  and  all  left, 
followed  by  two  youths  carrying  food.  More  Kaeva- 
kukus  came,  this  time  five;  and  all  danced  until  they 
received  presentation  of  pig,  when  they  too  cleared 
out.  So  on  it  went  until  the  whole  eighty  had  been. 
Some  got  dogs;  whereupon  they  caught  them  by  the 
hind  legs  and  struck  the  head  furiously  on  the  ground. 


Some  New  Guinea  Masks  207 

Not  a  few  were  displeased  with  the  small  quantity  given, 
and  persistently  remained  until  they  got  more. 

4 1  walked  into  the  bush  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
where  there  was  a  large  crowd  of  men,  some  armed, 
and  everywhere  I  turned  weapons  could  be  seen. 
Some  were  cutting  up  pigs,  others  dogs,  putting  the 
pieces  into  uros  and  upon  the  fire  to  cook.  Some 
distance  back  was  a  large  representation  of  Semese. 
It  was  a  mask,  fully  ten  feet  high,  and  three  broad: 
it  was  surrounded  with  feathers  of  various  kinds,  and 
down  the  middle  was  curiously  painted.  I  was  anxious 
to  secure  some  of  the  masks,  and  especially  the  one 
representing  Semese,  but  was  told  that  they  all  had  to 
be  burned.  I  saw  some  of  my  friends,  who  assisted 
me  in  securing  seven,  but  neither  love  nor  tomahawks 
could  obtain  Semese.  Soon,  all  round,  fires  were 
lighted,  and  masks,  cloaks,  and  kilts  were  blazing. 
I  could  not  remove  the  masks  I  had  obtained  until 
dark,  that  no  one  might  see  them,  and  especially  lest 
a  woman  should,  as,  according  to  tradition,  she  would 
soon  sicken  and  die.  I  collected  them  and  set  sentries 
to  watch,  as  I  feared  in  the  burning  mania  they  might 
be  seized. 

4  So  as  to  get  away  easily  and  quietly  this  morning, 
Johnny  and  I  packed  last  night  in  the  dark.  Our 
friends  here  are  afraid  I  shall  take  away  everything 
to  Orokolo  and  Maipua.  This  is  one  of  the  difficulties 
of  travelling  amongst  savages.  The  people  you  are 
with  do  all  in  their  power  to  prevent  you  from  leaving 
them,  and  their  neighbours  or  neighbouring  tribes  from 
getting  anything. 

4  How  interested  they  are  in  my  writing !  Every  day 
when  I  am  at  it  I  have  admiring  crowds  looking  on. 
When  new  arrivals  come  on  to  the  platform  it  is 


2o8      Among  the  Cannibals  of  Maipua 

the  one  thing  most  spoken  about,  and  I  am  generally 
pressed  to  do  a  little. 

'  We  really  started  this  morning.  The  weather  having 
cleared  up,  and  "  the  pride  of  the  morning  "  departed,  we 
had  breakfast  and  were  away  by  nine  o'clock.  Passing 
through  the  village  on  the  other  side  I  met  my  friend 
Meka,  who  insisted  on  my  visiting  his  dubu  and  drinking 
a  cocoanut.  It  is  a  very  fine  building.  On  entering, 
it  was  very  dark,  but  after  a  little  I  could  see  better. 
There  were  eighty  masks  arranged  down  the  sides, 
forty  a-side,  and  alongside  each  mask  a  stick.  There 
were  drums ;  pretty  small  ladders,  made  of  cane,  and 
used  to  ascend  when  beautifying  the  dubu ;  spears,  clubs, 
bows  and  arrows,  and  many  other  things.  Outside  there 
is  a  splendid  platform,  at  present  surrounded  with  cocoa- 
nut  leaves  because  of  Kaevakuku,  so  that  impure  eyes 
may  not  peer  into  the  mysteries.  Overhead,  very  high 
up,  is  the  long  peaked  roof,  in  which  many  arrows 
were  sticking,  and  small  pieces  of  wood  ornamented 
with  feathers  representing  the  spirits.  Anxious  to  get 
away,  I  bade  my  friend  "  stay,"  and  promised,  if 
I  had  time  on  my  return,  to  spend  a  night  in 
his  dubu. 

*  The  tide  being  low,  we  travelled  along  the  beach  in 
a  broiling  sun.  There  was  no  wind,  and  although  by 
this  time  I  ought  to  be  accustomed  to  it,  yet  I  did  indeed 
feel  it  hot.  We  passed  several  fishing  parties,  men  with 
nets  about  nine  feet  square  attached  to  two  sticks,  which 
they  lifted  up  and  down  in  the  water.  The  women  had 
bag  nets  on  a  long  stick,  and  used  them  much  in  the 
same  way.  They  had  also  small  bags  hanging  from 
their  heads  down  their  backs,  and  into  which  all  fish 
caught  were  put.  The  young  lads  had  hand-traps  made 
of  the  ribs  of  the  sago  frond,  with  which  they  ran  about 


Arrival  at  Mama's  Dubu  209 

and  placed  over  fish,  putting  their  hands  in  from  the 
top  to  catch  them. 

'  It  was  thirsty  travelling1,  and  I  longed  for  a  cocoa- 
nut,  but  was  told  to  wait.  So  wait  I  did,  until  about 
half-way,  when  I  was  told  that  friends  from  Orokolo 
were  coming  to  meet  me.  Soon  I  could  see  a  white 
shirt  with  red  trappings  in  the  bush,  and  I  knew 
my  good  friend  Apohe  was  awaiting  me,  and  with 
him  about  fifty  young-  men.  The  native  "  champagne  " 
(cocoanut  water)  was  all  ready  in  dozens.  Soon  the 
necks  of  the  cocoanuts  are  flying,  and  serving-men  are 
rushing  around  handing1  the  cool  drink  to  all  new-comers. 
When  all  have  finished,  I  say  I  should  like  another  bottle. 
Orders  are  at  once  given  to  ascend  to  the  cellar.  A  man 
quickly  climbs  a  tall  cocoanut-tree,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
we  have  more  in  abundance,  cooler  far  than  the  former, 
and  cooler  and  better  than  all  the  champagne  ever  pro- 
duced in  the  wine  countries  of  Europe.  We  drank  it 
under  the  beautiful  shade  of  a  splendid  hibiscus,  with 
a  magnificent  grove  of  wine-cellars  behind.  Feeling 
refreshed,  we  rose  up  and  started,  accompanied  by  over 
a  hundred  armed  men,  who  have  come  out  to  do  honour 
to  Apohe 's  friends. 

'We  left  Kovara  (Apohe's  village)  about  three  p.m., 
came  inland  for  some  distance  over  splendid  land,  and 
then  on  to  the  beach.  I  have  never  anywhere  seen 
children  swarm  as  here;  boys  and  girls  in  crowds 
accompanied  us,  shouting,  laughing,  dancing,  and 
running  with  all  the  hilarity  of  happy  youth.  Side 
by  side  Apohe  and  I  walked  in  state,  until  we  arrived 
at  Mama's  dubu,  where  his  lordship  was  dressed  to 
receive  us.  There  was  a  very  large  crowd  on  the 
platform.  Mama  was  standing  up  in  the  centre  with 
a  short  lady's  jacket  on,  and  on  his  head  for  a  cap 

O 


2io       Among  the  Cannibals  of  Maipua 

a  small  coloured  bag  I  had  given  him  two  years  ago. 
On  my  ascending  the  platform,  he  came  forward  to 
meet  me,  to  shake  hands,  and  rub  noses. 

1  His  dubu  is  a  new  one,  and  inside  is  comfortable  and 
clean.  I  soon  entered  and  selected  my  sleeping  apart- 
ment, and  then  went  out  to  be  seen,  examined,  and 
scrutinized  by  the  crowd  of  old  and  young.  My  heavy 
black  travelling  boots  were  the  wonder  of  all,  and  cer- 
tainly the  majority  thought  I  had  peculiarly  black  feet. 
The  unlacing  of  one  caused  the  mouths  to  be  opened 
wide.  But  when  I  took  the  boot  off,  how  shall  I 
describe  that  terrific  shout  ?  'twas  as  of  a  mighty  host, 
and  beggars  all  description.  I  removed  my  sock,  and 
then  another  shout,  and  those  not  too  much  afraid 
pressed  round  the  platform  to  have  a  nearer  look,  and 
some  even  to  feel  the  foot  and  so  make  sure.  I  exposed 
my  chest,  and  that,  too,  excited  great  wonder.  What 
seemed  to  astonish  them  much  was  the  softness  of  the  skin, 
especially  of  the  sole  of  the  foot,  which  was  carefully 
examined.  I  thought  I  was  safe  enough  here,  but  it  may 
be  well  for  me  not  to  do  this  at  Maipua,  as  the  cannibals 
there  might  take  a  fancy  to  cooked  feet  and  breast. 

*  About  sundown  I  walked  through  the  large  scat- 
tered village,  which  contained  many  good  houses  and 
many  wretched  hovels.  They  seemed  to  throw  all  their 
strength  into  building  dubus.  Everywhere  near  the 
houses  I  saw  small  plantations  of  tobacco  strongly 
fenced.  Men,  women,  and  children,  pigs  and  dogs, 
all  seemed  terribly  excited.  On  my  return  it  was 
getting  dark,  and  my  host  having  entered  the  gloomy 
precincts  of  his  dubu,  there  I  went  too.  Sombre  it 
was  indeed,  and  only  here  and  there  a  small  flicker 
of  light  from  dying  fires,  with  natives  asleep  close  by, 
breathing  heavily. 


Evangelizing  the  Savages  211 

'Sunday,  Oct,  14. — Last  night  in  the  dark  we  had 
evening-  prayers.  The  deacon  gave  a  short  address. 
I,  through  him,  another,  then  he  engaged  in  prayer. 
It  was  a  strange,  weird  meeting.  There  were  about 
a  dozen  present,  and  we  taught  them  to  pray,  "  O  Lord 
Jesus,  give  us  light,  save  us."  Nothing  more  ;  it  was 
quite  enough ;  and  will  He  not  answer  them  ?  The 
deacon  spoke  to  them  for  a  long  while,  and  told  them 
of  God's  love. 

*  This  morning,  long  before  I  was  ready  to  get  up, 
the  crowd  appeared,  but,  having  been  disturbed  during 
the   night   by    some    too    lively   bed-fellows,   I    rolled 
myself  up  in  my  blanket  and  stole  some  sleep.     Last 
night  in  the  dark  one  old  fellow  got  up  and  spoke: 
"  Tamate,  we  are  glad  you  have  come  again,  that  we 
all  might  see  you,  as  we  heard  so  much  of  you ;  we 
thought  you  must  be  a  spirit,  now  we  see  you  are  a 
man  like  ourselves,  only  white." 

'  We  have  just  had  service :  a  hymn,  a  few  verses 
of  St.  Matthew,  and  prayer  by  the  deacon  in  the 
Elema  dialect.  The  deacon  also  gave  an  address  on 
God's  love  to  man,  and  His  desire  that  all  might  be 
saved.  Some  are  very  attentive,  others  chew  betel-nut 
or  smoke ;  we  are  all  squatting  tailor-fashion.  They 
soon  tire,  so  we  finish. 

*  Aruadaera    (the    deacon)    and   Aruako   have   been 
away  for  a  long  time,  and  have  just  returned.     They 
have,  on  the  platform  of  the  neighbouring  dubu,  been 
telling  the  story  of  Divine   love  as   expressed   in  the 
gift  of  Christ.  Again  and  again  have  they  had  to  go  over 
the  good  old  story.     The  people,  they  say,  were  much 
astonished,  and  very  attentive. 

'  I  hear  Mama  has  sent  on  to  Maipua  to  inform  the 
natives  there  of  our  arrival  here,  and  that  to-morrow 

O  a 


212        Among  the  Cannibals  of  Maipua 

they  are  to  come  with  their  canoes  to  this  side  of  the 
river,  Alele,  and  meet  us.  It  is  perhaps  better  they 
should  know  beforehand. 

'  Five  p.m. — One  of  the  messengers  sent  to  Maipua 
has  returned.  To-morrow  the  chief  and  a  large  party 
are  to  come  and  meet  me.  When  the  people  there 
heard  that  I  had  arrived  at  Orokolo  they  said,  "  You 
only  deceive  us "  ;  so  a  piece  of  foreign  tobacco  was 
produced,  with  the  question,  "  Is  that  ours,  or  like  it  ? " 
then  they  sat  down  and  had  a  smoke,  and  all  believed. 
Two  messengers  went,  but  the  people  insisted  on  one 
staying,  so  as  to  ensure  the  return  of  the  other  with  the 
party  in  the  morning. 

'  Oct.  15. — Not  starting  early  enough,  we  had  to  wait 
for  the  ebb  tide,  and  it  was  ten  o'clock  when  we  got 
off.  We  had  a  very  large  escort  to  near  the  river 
Alele,  where  we  were  to  meet  the  Maipuans.  We 
reached  the  river  about  noon,  having  crossed  one  salt- 
water creek.  Our  escort  returned,  they  being  at  war 
at  present  with  Maipua.  We  saw  a  large  canoe,  with- 
out an  outrigger,  approaching.  On  getting  to  the  beach 
close  to  where  we  were  standing,  a  man  sprung  out 
and  ran  up  to  me  with  open  arms,  giving  me  a  hearty 
squeeze.  This  was  Ipaivaitani,  the  leading  chief  of 
Maipua.  We  were  soon  all  on  board.  Including  crew, 
we  were  eleven  altogether.  The  current  was  running 
strongly,  and  I  felt  rather  dubious  as  to  our  getting 
across  at  all,  but  it  was  an  unwarrantable  doubt,  as  we 
got  over  without  shipping  a  drop  of  water.  On  the 
other  side  we  took  more  on  board  until  we  numbered 
twenty-three,  and  away  we  pulled  through  various 
creeks  lined  with  palms  and  mangroves,  until  we  came 
to  a  splendid  river,  the  largest  I  have  yet  seen  east 
of  Bald  Head ;  it  is  the  largest  without  doubt,  for  I 


A  Splendid  Dubu  213 

know  them  all.  I  call  the  main  stream  inland  the 
Wickham,  after  a  dear  friend.  The  current  was  swift, 
it  being  ebb  tide  at  the  time  of  our  crossing,  but  our 
bark  was  handled  so  well  that  we  got  over  all  right. 
This  is  the  Aivei  river  on  the  chart. 

'  We  then  came  easily  along  from  one  creek  to 
another,  through  stinking  swamps,  until  we  reached 
Maipua  about  five  p.m.  It  is  indeed  a  large  village,  with 
splendid  houses  and  fine  large  temples.  I  estimate  the 
population  at  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  hundred  people. 
But  what  a  horrible  hole !  a  real  swamp,  with  miles 
of  swamp  all  round.  The  streets  are  all  laid  with  long 
large  trees,  and  in  front  of  many  of  the  houses,  as  in 
front  of  the  temples,  long  platforms  of  wood  rise 
gradually  from  the  streets.  The  village  is  intersected 
with  small  creeks,  and  these  are  crossed  by  very  good 
bridges. 

'  The  temple  where  I  am  sitting  is  the  largest,  and 
it  is  the  finest  thing  of  the  kind  I  have  yet  seen. 
There  are  two  large  posts  in  front,  eighty  feet  high, 
and  on  these  rests  the  large  peaked  shade,  around 
which  there  hangs  a  graceful  fringe  of  young  sago 
leaf.  The  front  is  about  thirty  feet  wide,  and  the 
house  is  about  160  feet  long,  tapering  gradually  down 
to  the  back,  where  it  is  small.  Our  compartment  is 
about  twenty  feet  high  and  ten  broad.  The  front  is 
a  common  platform  floored  with  the  outer  skin  of  the 
sago  palm,  and  kept  beautifully  clean.  The  whole  is 
divided  into  courts,  with  divisions  of  cocoanut  leaves, 
nine  feet  high,  on  which  hang  various  figures,  not  at 
all  good-looking.  From  the  top  to  the  cocoanut  leaves 
hang  graceful  curtains  of  the  young  frond  of  the  sago 
palm.  Standing  on  the  platform  in  front  and  looking 
down  the  whole  length  along  the  passage  or  hall,  with 


214        Among  the  Cannibals  of  Maipua 

the  various  divisions  and  their  curtains,  it  has  a  wonder- 
ful  effect.  In  each  of  the  courts  are  numerous  skulls 
of  men,  women,  and  children,  crocodiles  and  wild  boars, 
also  many  breasts  of  the  cassowary.  All  are  carved  and 
many  painted.  The  human  skulls  are  of  those  who 
have  been  killed  and  eaten.  The  daintiest  dish  here  is 
man,  and  it  is  considered  that  only  fools  refuse  and 
despise  it. 

'  In  the  last  court  there  are  the  same  kinds  of 
ornaments,  and  then  a  screen  with  curiously  formed 
things  of  wood  and  native  cloth  hanging-  on  it ;  also 
sihis  (their  only  clothing),  belts,  small  bags,  and  other 
things  belonging  to  those  murdered,  which  have  been 
presented  to  the  gods.  Inside  that  court  is  the  most 
sacred  place  of  all.  Few  ever  enter  there. 

'  On  my  arrival,  I  had  to  stand  up  in  the  canoe,  that  I 
might  be  seen  by  all  the  people.  On  ascending  the 
wooden  steps  from  the  canoe  to  the  platform,  I  was 
conducted  by  the  chief  to  the  temple,  where,  sitting 
down  each  side  of  the  passage,  were  many  men  ready  to 
receive  me.  They  never  spoke  a  word  while  I  went 
down  the  centre  and  back  to  the  platform,  followed  by 
the  chief;  then  they  all  rose,  and  after  giving  a  great 
shout  gathered  round  me.  The  passage  I  walked  along 
had  the  appearance  of  glazed  cloth,  with  various  figures 
carved  on  it ;  it  was  carpeted  with  the  outer  skin  of  the 
sago  palm,  glazed  by  the  blood  of  the  victims  so 
frequently  dragged  over  it  and  by  the  constant  walking 
on  it.  After  being  examined  and  pronounced  a  human 
being,  I  returned  with  the  chief  through  the  various 
courts  to  the  sacred  place.  I  was  allowed  to  enter,  but 
the  chief  was  too  frightened,  and  he  remained  outside, 
and  would  only  speak  in  a  whisper  to  those  near.  I 
entered  into  that  eerie  place,  where  small  bats  in 


Aruako  and  Aruadaera  teaching         215 

abundance  flew  about,  and  saw  six  curious-looking 
figures,  made  of  cane.  The  mouth  was  like  a  frog's, 
enormously  large  and  wide  open  ;  the  body,  seven  feet 
high  in  the  centre,  and  about  nine  feet  long,  had  the 
appearance  of  a  large  dugong.  Out  of  these  mouths 
flew,  in  constant  succession,  the  small  bats. 

'  The  whole  temple  looks  splendid,  and  although  my 
new  friends  are  cannibals,  yet  it  goes  to  show  that  they 
are  something  beyond  the  mere  wild  savage :  might  I 
call  them  "  cannibal  semi -civilized  savages "  ?  In  the 
various  courts  are  fireplaces,  alongside  which  the  men 
sleep.  The  chief,  Ipaivaitani,  has  given  me  his  quarters, 
but  I  do  not  think  I  shall  sleep  in  them. 

*  I  have  just  had  breakfast  and  dinner  all  in  one.  I 
could  have  enjoyed  it  better  if  there  had  not  been  so 
many  skulls  in  a  heap  close  by,  some  of  which  were 
tolerably  new.  These  skulls  are  at  present  down  for 
cleaning  and  repairs,  but  when  all  is  in  order  they  are 
hung  on  pegs  all  round  ;  no  scientific  collection  could  be 
better  kept. 

'  Oct.  1 6. — Slept  outside  on  the  platform,  and  had 
a  splendid  night.  Aruako  fulfilled  his  promise,  given  at 
Orokolo,  and  for  long  held  forth  to  the  crowd  of 
listening  cannibals  on  Adam  and  Eve,  Noah  and  the 
Flood ;  and  both  he  and  Aruadaera  spoke  about  Jesus 
our  Lord  and  His  love.  It  was  a  strangely  weird  scene. 
A  large  dark  temple,  lit  only  by  flickering  firelights; 
a  crowd  of  savages,  real  cannibals,  who  pronounce  man 
to  be  the  best  of  all  flesh,  and  whose  wives  also  relish  it. 
Human  skulls  in  abundance  ornament  the  various  courts, 
and  at  the  end,  in  the  most  sacred  place,  six  Kanibus,  or 
great  idols,  who  hold  life  and  death,  fighting  and  peace, 
within  themselves.  In  the  centre  of  this  weird  crowd  sit 
Aruako  and  Aruadaera,  both  of  them  until  recently  wild 


216        Among  the  Cannibals  of  Maipua 

savages  themselves,  preaching  Christ  as  the  revealer  of 
God's  love  and  the  Saviour  of  sinful  men.  It  was  the 
most  attentive  congregation  of  the  kind  I  have  ever  met. 
They  listened  well,  asked  questions,  and  expatiated 
freely  on  what  they  heard.  Soon  after  sunset  the  service 
commenced,  and  when  I  sought  sleep  it  was  still  going  on. 

'  When  I  awoke,  the  sun,  I  found,  had  preceded  me, 
and  Aruako  and  Aruadaera  were  still  talking  and  listen- 
ing. I  went  into  the  dubu,  and  looking  my  friend 
Aruako,  who  was  now  quite  hoarse,  in  the  face,  I  said, 
"  Arua,  have  you  been  at  it  all  night  ?  "  He  replied, 
"  Yes,  and  when  I  lay  down  they  kept  asking  questions, 
and  I  had  to  get  up,  go  on  and  explain.  But  enough,  I 
am  now  at  Jesus  Christ,  and  must  tell  them  all  about 
Him." 

'  Yes,  my  friend  had  reached  Him  to  Whom  we  all 
must  come  for  light  and  help  and  peace.  When  Arua 
had  finished  there  was  but  one  response  from  all  their 
lips  :  "  No  more  fighting,  Tamate  ;  no  more  man-eating ; 
we  have  heard  good  news,  and  we  shall  strive  for 
peace." 

'  To  the  Kanibus,  or  gods  of  the  dubu,  the  inhabitants 
of  Maipua  give  offerings  ;  pearl-shells,  arm-shells,  pigs, 
human  beings,  and  skulls.  The  sick  apply  to  them  for 
healing,  their  friends  presenting  gifts.  When  wishing  to 
fight,  they  appeal  for  direction  and  help  to  these  wicker 
images ;  and  they  assured  me  they  get  directions  audibly 
from  their  mouths.  For  days  before  any  fighting  is  to 
take  place  all  the  men  are  sacred,  and  no  woman  must 
be  seen  or  approached  ;  and  when  one  of  their  number 
is  wounded,  he  is  accused  of  breaking  through  the 
sacredness.  All  the  bodies  of  the  slain  are  dragged 
by  the  heels  into  the  dubu  and  up  to  the  sacred  place, 
where  they  are  presented  to  Kanibu. 


Their  Fondness  for  Flowers  217 

'  I  have  just  returned  from  visiting  other  dubus  in  the 
village.  A  good  part  of  the  visiting  was  done  in  a  canoe. 
One  dubu  is  200  feet  long,  and  has  in  its  sacred  place 
twelve  Kanibus.  The  carpet  of  sago  bark  down  the 
centre  passage  is  really  beautiful ;  it  has  figures  of  men, 
crocodiles,  and  other  creatures  carved  along  all  its  length. 
The  men,  as  yesterday,  sat  in  rows  down  each  side  to 
receive  me,  not  speaking  a  word.  The  two  Motuans 
with  me  are  terribly  afraid  of  going  near  the  sacred 
place ;  they  have  heard  some  awful  stories  of  the  mighty 
doings  there.  In  each  dubu  we  preached  Christ,  God 
the  Father's  expression  of  love,  and  begged  of  them  to 
give  up  fighting  and  man-eating,  which  they  faithfully 
promised  to  do. 

'  Near  all  their  dwelling-houses  they  have  small 
flower-gardens.  A  platform  is  made  about  ten  feet 
high,  surrounded  with  a  fence,  and  inside  earth,  brought 
from  far  inland  and  the  coast,  is  placed  to  the  thickness 
of  about  two  feet.  Various  kinds  of  plants  are  grown, 
but,  in  the  majority,  tobacco  prevails.  I  think  these 
gardens  furnish  further  evidence  that  there  is  a  kind 
of  civilization  amongst  these  people ;  and  this  taste  for 
the  beautiful  can  surely  be  worked  upon  with  much 
good  result. 

'  I  grow  weary  of  walking  on  the  trees  of  their  streets 
and  bridges,  and  some  of  the  latter  are  very  shaky 
indeed.  The  tide  is  just  now  high,  and  it  is  simply  water 
everywhere,  not  an  inch  of  dry  land  to  be  seen.  The 
houses  inside  are  commodious,  and  each  wife  has  her 
own  compartment,  with  its  fireplace  and  all  necessary 
utensils  for  cooking.  I  was  much  pleased  with  the 
cleanly  appearance  of  their  houses. 

'  I  am  at  last  in  the  canoe  on  the  return  journey. 
When  about  to  leave,  a  very  old  man  came  with  a  broken 


218        Among  the  Cannibals  of  Maipua 

piece  of  an  uro,  saying,  "  Will  you  not  pity  us,  and  get 
Motu  to  visit  us  ?  I  have  only  this  to  cook  food  in,  and 
others  have  nothing  at  all."  The  last  cannibal  feast  they 
had  lost  much  of  its  relish  from  their  not  having  large 
supplies  of  gravy ! 

'  We  made  a  splendid  start  in  a  large  canoe,  and  had 
an  escort  of  nine  other  canoes.  Leaving  the  village,  the 
tide  being  now  on  the  ebb,  we  floated  gently  down 
stream,  questioning  and  being  questioned.  Our  Vailala 
friends  were  glad  indeed  to  get  off,  as  they  were  terribly 
afraid  of  being  killed,  cooked,  and  eaten  !  Arua  tells  me 
it  was  near  daylight  when  he  sought  a  little  sleep.  They 
spent  the  whole  night  going  over  and  over  the  grand  old 
story  of  God's  love. 

'  The  sun  was  frightfully  hot,  but  fortunately  we  had 
frequent  shade.  I  had  to  sing  constantly  for  the  natives  ; 
and  we  met  two  large  canoes  of  women,  and  nolens 
volens  I  had  to  sing  for  them,  in  order  "  that  when 
Tamate's  face  is  lost  they  may  hear  his  voice,  and  weep 
that  he  so  soon  leaves  Maipua."  How  delighted  they 
were  when  I  showed  them  my  sewing-gear.  And  the 
pocket-knife  with  its  many  blades  they  will  not  soon 
forget. 

'  Now  for  the  last  time  comes  the  request, "  Would  you 
mind  undoing  your  shirt  and  showing  us  your  chest, 
that  we  may  have  one  look  and  feel  before  you  leave  ? " 
Mute  astonishment  possessed  all  who  had  not  seen  it 
before ;  the  other  canoes  closed  round,  and  I  allowed  all 
who  wished  to  put  their  hand  on  me.  This  gave  great 
satisfaction ;  and  then  came  the  farewell  words,  "  Tamate, 
come  back  soon,  very  soon  ;  do  not  disappoint  us,  and 
we  will  bring  you  every  where  on  the  rivers." 

'  Orokolo. — We  spent  an  hour  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Alele  with  our  cannibal  friends.  They  gave  us  cooked 


Return  to  Vailala  219 

sago  and  cocoanuts.  Our  friends  seemed,  and  no  doubt 
were,  very  sorry  to  part  with  us.  They  are  to  be  at 
Vailala  soon,  to  meet  the  Motuans,  and  secure  if  possible 
a  few  uros.  Before  entering  the  canoe  the  chief  knotted 
two  strings  with  nine  knots ;  one  string  he  kept,  the 
other  he  gave  me,  so  that  I  might  know  that  he  will  be 
in  Vailala  after  nine  sleeps  (nights),  if  the  weather  should 
be  fine. 

4  Oct.  17. — About  four  a.m.  we  were  ready  to  start  for 
Vailala,  and  walking  along  the  beach  in  the  cool,  accom- 
panied by  Apohe  and  others,  we  arrived  at  Perau  about 
eight.  Johnnie  and  I  crossed  the  river  in  a  very  rickety 
old  canoe,  in  which  I  got  soaked  for  the  first  time  during 
the  trip.  The  soaking  came  all  right,  but  I  was  in 
terror  of  the  "  devils  "  (crocodiles),  and  felt  really  happy 
when  the  canoe  touched  shore. 

1  We  found  all  well,  and  all  right  glad  to  see  us  back. 
Our  things  were  just  as  we  left  them.  The  old  chief  put 
a  taboo  on  our  division  of  the  dubu,  and  so  prevented 
the  intrusion  of  stragglers  and  thieves. 

*  A  successful  mission  has  for  many  years  been  carried 
on  among  these  fierce  cannibals — first  by  Tamate  and  his 
native  teachers,  and  then  by  Tamate's  friend  and  col- 
league Mr.  Holmes.' 


CHAPTER    XV 

HOW  NEW  GUINEA  CAME  UNDER 
THE  FLAG 

THE  annexation  of  New  Guinea  was  talked  of  long 
before  it  came  to  pass  and  the  Union  Jack  was  hoisted, 
and  then  the  transaction  was  cancelled  several  times  before 
the  final  and  authoritative  act.  In  this  Tamate  took  an 
active  part,  and  was  able  to  render  great  service  to  the 
government  officials  concerned,  by  explaining  matters 
to  the  native  chiefs,  by  securing  their  good-will  and 
friendship,  and  by  inducing  them  to  come  on  board 
the  men-of-war  to  meet  Commodore  Erskine  and  the 
other  officers  entrusted  with  this  important  duty. 
Dr.  Lawes  rendered  most  important  aid  at  Port  Moresby 
and  the  neighbourhood,  while  Tamate's  influence  with 
the  natives  was  such  that  he  did  what  no  other  man 
could  have  accomplished  in  the  Gulf  of  Papua,  at  the 
east  end,  and  along  the  north-eastern  coasts  of  New 
Guinea.  We  give  the  sketch  of  this  important  public 
service  in  Tamate's  own  words : — 

'  I  was  in  the  Gulf  hard  at  work  placing  teachers  and 
visiting  the  various  mission  stations  when  I  received 
a  letter  from  Mr.  Lawes,  suggesting  that  I  should  return 
to  Port  Moresby,  and  so  be  in  time  for  a  grand  display 
of  British  power.  Anxious  to  see  the  grand  display 
that  would  be  made  by  the  full  Australian  Squadron 
with  the  commodore  in  command  of  the  largest  ship  in 
the  Pacific  waters,  and  also  to  behold  the  pageantry  of 


Flag  hoisted  at  Port  Moresby          221 

the  final  hoisting  of  the  British  Union  Jack  on  New 
Guinea  soil,  I  hastened  back  to  Port  Moresby.  We 
found  the  "  Harrier  "  and  the  "  Raven  "  in  harbour  still 
waiting  for  the  others,  and  daily  expecting  the  com- 
modore in  the  battleship  "  Nelson."  On  Saturday, 
November  i,  1884,  the  "  Swinger"  came  in  from  Cook- 
town,  and  on  Sunday  about  midday  the  "  Nelson,"  and 
soon  after  the  "  Espiegle,"  arrived,  followed  some  days 
later  by  the  "  Dart."  It  was  a  peculiarly  busy  and 
exciting  time.  Native  chiefs  from  a  coast-line  sixty 
miles  in  extent  were  assembled  to  witness  the  hoisting 
of  the  flag. 

'  On  the  afternoon  of  November  5  all  the  chiefs  were 
assembled  on  the  "  Nelson,"  and  after  a  feast,  the  prime 
essential  in  all  transactions  with  a  native,  the  commodore, 
surrounded  by  his  officers,  read  the  official  address. 
This  was  interpreted  to  all  the  chiefs  present  by  the 
Rev.  W.  G.  Lawes,  and  when  he  had  finished  they  were 
all  asked  if  they  understood  what  was  meant,  and  all  said 
that  they  did.  Another  very  important  part  of  the 
palaver  then  took  place,  each  chief  being  handed  a  suit- 
able present  by  the  commodore.  Several  shots  were 
fired  from  two  of  the  big  guns,  which  astonished  the 
natives  much.  At  night  the  electric  search-light  was 
shown,  blue  lights  were  burned  and  rockets  fired  off. 
All  of  these  incidents  were  thoroughly  appreciated  by 
the  crowds  on  shore  ;  but  when  the  climax  of  the  day 
came  in  the  weird,  fiendish,  and  altogether  unearthly 
noise  of  the  syren,  man  and  beast  alike  became  alarmed. 
Sometimes  it  sounded  as  if  away  back  in  the  hills,  then 
as  if  in  the  village,  then  from  the  reef,  and  finally  from 
a  long,  long  distance,  only  to  shriek  forth  again  uncan- 
nily close  at  hand.  Dogs  rushed  madly  about,  but  soon 
escaped  into  snug  places  where  they  thought  themselves 


222    How  New  Guinea  came  under  the  Flag 

safe.  Human  beings  asked  one  another  what  it  meant, 
grew  alarmed,  fearful  lest  fiends  from  nether  regions  had 
been  exorcised  to  this  sphere  and  to  this  particular  spot  ; 
and  they  too  sought  the  shelter  of  their  houses.  This 
ended  the  ceremonies  for  that  day,  and  for  one  night  at 
least  peace  reigned  in  the  village  of  Port  Moresby. 

'  November  6  was  the  day  of  days  for  Port  Moresby, 
and  for  all  who  saw  the  grand  sight  when  New  Guinea, 
or  rather  its  south-eastern  portion,  was  taken  under  the 
very  powerful  wing  of  Her  Most  Gracious  Majesty,  Queen 
Victoria,  her  heirs  and  successors  for  all  time  coming. 
Although  previous  actions  of  taking  possession  were 
more  complete,  and  to  some  seemed  more  statesmanlike, 
yet  this  act  was  expressly  ordered  and  arranged  to 
supersede  all  the  earlier  acts. 

'  Soon  after  breakfast,  boats  landed  officers  and  men, 
blue-jackets  and  marines.  They  were  soon  followed  by 
Commodore  Erskine,  who  was  met  on  the  beach  by 
a  large  number  of  his  officers  and  the  band  of  the 
"Nelson."  They  marched  up  from  the  beach  to  the 
mission  premises,  where  the  great  act  took  place, 
the  band  playing  all  the  way.  The  blue-jackets  and 
marines  were  drawn  up  round  the  flagstaff,  whilst  the 
commodore,  his  officers,  and  the  missionaries  took  their 
stations  on  the  verandah  of  the  mission -house. 

'When  all  was  ready,  the  commodore,  standing  in 
front,  read  the  Proclamation,  which  was  immediately 
afterwards  translated  by  Mr.  Lawes  to  the  native  chiefs. 
Firing  of  salutes  and  cheering  then  took  place,  and  the 
final  and  complete  annexation  of  New  Guinea  was 
accomplished.  It  is  impossible  to  conceive  of  its  being 
better  done  than  it  was  then,  and  perhaps  no  better  man 
could  have  been  selected  than  Commodore  Erskine  to 
perform  the  ceremony. 


Motumotu  and  Freshwater  Bay         223 

*  The  following  day  the  men-of-war  weighed  anchors 
and  sailed  for  the  west.  That  night  they  anchored  in 
Hall  Sound,  and  on  Saturday,  November  8,  in  the  pre- 
sence of  chiefs  from  all  the  districts  round,  hoisted  the 
flag  on  a  flagstaff  erected  by  the  blue-jackets  that 
morning  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  village.  The  same 
care  was  taken  by  the  commodore  here  as  at  Port 
Moresby,  that  all  should  thoroughly  understand  what 
was  done  and  the  reasons  for  doing  it.  Queen  Koloka 
of  Naara,  who  calls  herself  Queen  Victoria's  sister,  was 
present,  and  told  the  commodore  everything  he  said 
was  good.  She  received  presents,  and  so  did  the  other 
chiefs. 

'  After  Hall  Sound  the  squadron  visited  Motumotu  and 
Freshwater  Bay.  The  chiefs  slept  one  night  on  board 
the  "  Nelson,"  feeling  safe  and  at  home,  and  the  following 
morning  landed  with  the  commodore  and  party  to  see 
the  flag  hoisted  and  hear  the  proclamation.  The  natives, 
men,  women,  and  children,  crowded  round  the  flagstaff, 
and  showed  no  fear  whatever.  At  each  place  a  stick 
with  a  silver  queen's  head  on  the  top — a  florin,  I  sup- 
pose— was  given  to  the  principal  chief.  Here  it  was 
given  to  Semese,  an  old  warrior,  the  very  picture  of 
what  an-  old  savage  should  be.  His  days  of  active  life 
were  over,  but  he  still  walked  stately  and  erect  about 
Motumotu,  seeing  with  his  one  eye  as  much  as  any  two 
ordinary  good  ones.  In  the  fighting  ardour  of  the  youth 
of  the  tribe  he  took  delight ;  but  he  had  been  brought  to 
think  that  peace  was  better,  and  to  use  his  influence 
on  its  behalf. 

*On  Tuesday  all  the  ships  were  back  again  at  Port 
Moresby,  where  a  few  days  were  spent,  during  which 
the  officers  made  various  journeys  inland  in  quest  of 
game. 


224    How  New  Guinea  came  under  the  Flag 

'  On  Monday,  Nov.  1 7,  in  the  afternoon,  the  meeting 
of  chiefs  from  all  round  Hood  Bay  and  Aroma  took 
place  on  board  the  "  Nelson."  All  were  delighted  with 
their  reception,  and  thoroughly  approved  of  the  address 
and  of  its  objects.  Some  of  the  chiefs,  to  be  certain  of 
their  position,  put  questions,  and  had  them  satisfactorily 
answered,  and  they  left,  saying  it  was  all  good.  On  the 
morning  of  Nov.  18,  the  commodore,  officers,  and  a  party 
landed  at  Kerepunu.  In  a  square,  named  then  Espiegle 
Square,  in  front  of  the  principal  chief's  house,  the  Union 
Jack  was  hoisted  on  a  flagstaff  that  had  been  erected 
that  morning  by  the  carpenter  and  a  few  blue -jackets 
from  the  "Espiegle."  On  Wednesday,  Nov.  19,  the 
"  Espiegle  "  called  at  Toulon,  and  Captain  Bridge  read 
an  address  to  the  chiefs  and  people,  and  told  them  to 
warn  the  Cloudy  Bay  natives  against  interfering  with 
white  men.  At  Argyle  Bay,  near  Dufaure  Island,  the 
ships  again  met  the  "  Nelson,"  and  after  getting  all  the 
chiefs  in  the  neighbourhood  on  board  the  flagship, 
the  same  formalities  were  gone  through  as  in  the  other 
places.  On  the  morning  of  Thursday,  Nov.  20,  the  flag 
was  hoisted  in  the  presence  of  a  large  number  of  natives, 
who  nearly  all  fled  when  the  firing  begun.  On  the  after- 
noon of  the  same  day  all  were  anchored  in  front  of  the 
mission  station  on  Stacey  Island. 

'  On  the  following  day  the  flag  was  hoisted  at  Suau. 
Here  the  chiefs  complained  to  the  commodore  respecting 
two  of  their  youths,  who  had  been  staying  at  Moresby 
Island,  and  were  taken  to  Queensland  for  three  moons, 
and  who  had  not  yet  returned,  although  nearly  a  year 
had  passed.  The  commodore  promised  to  do  his  utmost 
to  have  them  sent  back,  which  gave  great  satisfaction, 
and,  if  accomplished,  will  help  much  in  showing  the 
natives  that  the  promises  of  the  Protectorate  are  real. 


Climbing  Cloudy  Mountain  225 

*  Whilst  the  squadron  was  at  anchor  at  Suau  a  party 
was  got  together  from  the  various  ships  to  ascend  Cloudy 
Mountain.     As  fine  and  hearty  a  number  assembled  on 
the  beach  as  it  was  possible  to  wish  for.     The  senior 
officer  was  Captain  Bridge  of  the  "  Espiegle,"  and  next 
was  Captain  Henderson  of  the  "  Nelson."     Several  other 
officers,  blue-jackets,  and  marines,  with  some   of  the 
missionaries,  composed  the  party.     About  thirty  natives 
came  to  act  as  guides  and  carriers.     The  ascent  was 
steep,  and  in  some  places  difficult,  because  of  the  thick 
scrub.     Before  getting  to  the  top,  and  whilst  some  were 
shouting  "  Excelsior,"  others,  I  fear,  were  thinking  of  the 
comforts  on  board  ship,  and  the  folly  of  undertaking  such 
a  useless  business,  and  would  gladly  have  gone  back. 
About  four  p.m.  the  top  was  reached,  and  all  at  once 
went  to  work  forming  camp,  then  to  cooking  and  making 
all  comfortable  for  the  night. 

'  The  mountain  mist  was  very  heavy,  and  came  down 
in  copious  showers ;  blankets  were  stretched  over  wood 
to  form  tents,  and  so  preserve  us  from  the  very  heavy 
rain.  It  was  a  jolly  party,  and  as  sleep  was  out  of  the 
question  to  the  majority,  the  greater  part  of  the  night 
was  spent  in  smoking  and  singing.  The  natives  enjoyed 
the  sport,  and  entered  fully  into  the  spirit  of  the  fun, 
singing  songs  of  their  own,  so  as  not  to  be  outdone  by 
"Beritani  dimdims."  At  midnight  my  blanket- fellow 
turned  round,  saying,  "Just  think  of  the  comfortable 
bed  at  the  mission  house  and  the  folly  of  being  here." 

*  The  following  morning  the  Union  Jack  was  fastened 
to  a  long  pole  made  from  a  tree,  and  set  up,  a  mark 
to  all  comers  that  in  solitude  as  well  as  in  busy  scenes 
Britain's  voice  must  be  heard.     Some  Britons  think  the 
world  was  made  for  the  Anglo-Saxon.     Three  cheers 
were  heartily  given  under  the  grand  old  flag,  and  we 

P 


226    How  New  Guinea  came  under  the  Flag 

descended,  leaving  it  to  fly  alone,  a  wonder  to  all  living 
things  up  in  those  solitudes. 

'The  descent  was  soon  made,  and  at  the  bottom 
breakfast  was  prepared,  where  all  assembled  perfectly 
ready  for  refreshments.  Feeling  better  and  livelier,  all 
started  for  Bertha  Lagoon,  where  boats  were  met,  and 
by  one  p.m.  all  were  on  board  their  various  ships,  and 
the  natives  at  their  homes  rejoicing  in  what  they  con- 
sidered good  payment. 

4  On  Sunday  the  "  Espiegle  "  arrived  at  Moresby  Island 
with  natives  of  that  island  who  had  been  taken  to 
Queensland  under  false  pretences.  They  had  escaped 
from  their  plantations,  and  risked  a  cockle-shell  boat 
in  a  south-east  gale  and  the  chances  of  being  murdered 
by  savages,  rather  than  remain  in  servitude  any  longer. 
Fortunately  they  made  Murray  Island,  and  were  kindly 
treated.  Their  friends  on  Moresby  Island  had  given 
them  up  and  mourned  for  them  as  dead,  blackened 
themselves,  and  put  on  various  articles  of  mourning, 
and  cooked  food  for  their  spirits.  Some  of  their  friends 
came  on  board,  having  heard  that  some  of  the  lost  ones 
had  returned,  and  the  scene  was  most  affecting.  On 
landing  they  were  received  with  great  demonstrations 
of  weeping,  and  many  were  the  questions  they  had  to 
answer  respecting  others.  A  chief  who  was  amongst 
those  returned  landed  in  our  boat,  and  when  met  on 
the  beach  he  tried  hard  to  play  the  Stoic.  Several 
women  threw  themselves  at  his  feet  crying,  then  rose 
and  went  a  few  yards  away,  crying  bitterly,  he  standing 
at  the  waterside  gazing  into  space.  It  was  too  much 
for  him,  and  his  stoicism  giving  way  he  sat  down,  and 
the  women  gathering  round  him  he  gave  free  vent  to 
his  feelings. 

'The  natives  were  not  ungrateful  for  the  kindness 


Bringing  a  Chief  on  Board  227 

shown  them,  and  in  the  evening  they  brought  off  a  pig, 
and  a  large  quantity  of  food  for  Captain  Bridge.  Many 
came  off  begging  the  captain  to  bring  back  the  others, 
saying, u  You  have  brought  light  and  joy  to  some  homes, 
but  what  of  the  darkness  and  sorrow  in  others?  We 
thought  them  all  dead,  and  our  mourning  is  great ;  we 
have  no  glad  tears ;  no,  not  until  you  bring  ours  back." 
They  wept  bitterly ;  if  the  captain  would  only  go  now 
and  get  them,  they  would  fill  his  ship  with  pigs  and 
food.  Captain  Bridge  begged  of  them,  or  at  all  events 
some  of  their  chiefs,  to  accompany  him  in  the  "Espiegle" 
to  meet  the  commodore  at  Dinner  Island ;  but  there 
was  ever  the  one  answer,  "  No,  we  will  not  go ;  bring 
back  our  boys." 

'The  squadron  met  on  Monday,  Nov.  24,  at  Dinner 
Island,  where  the  flag  was  hoisted  and  the  same  cere- 
mony gone  through  as  at  other  places.  When  finished, 
the  flagship  and  one  or  two  others  weighed  anchors 
and  made  for  Killerton  Island,  near  East  Cape,  the 
"  Swinger  "  calling  at  Discovery  Bay  and  at  Kabi,  both 
in  Milne  Bay.  We  had  no  difficulty  in  getting  my  old 
friend  of  Vagavaga  on  board,  but  at  Kabi  the  old  chief, 
who  had  just  left  a  cannibal  feast  to  meet  us,  was  not  so 
sure.  Linking  my  arm  in  his,  I  walked  him  into  the 
boat  with  his  son,  and  before  he  had  time  to  think  of 
the  situation  we  were  well  off  on  our  way  to  the  ship. 
The  people  on  shore  were  crying  and  calling  on  him 
to  return,  but  that  was  now  out  of  the  question.  After 
being  some  time  on  board  he  began  to  breathe  more 
freely,  and  felt  it  was  all  right.  He  told  us  the  men 
were  out  that  morning,  and  had  killed  three  belonging 
to  a  neighbouring  village,  one  man  and  two  women ; 
the  latter  were  left  for  their  friends  to  remove,  the 
former  was  taken  and  eaten. 

Pa 


228    How  New  Guinea  came  under  the  Flag 

'  That  night  he  accompanied  the  Vagavaga  chiefs  on 
board  the  "  Nelson,"  and  the  following  morning  all  were 
present  at  the  ceremony  ashore,  which  must  have  been 
to  them  very  terrible.  They  too  had  complaints  to 
make  of  men  who  had  been  taken  away  to  Queensland 
for  three  moons  and  not  returned. 

*  The  ceremony  ashore  being  over,  early  after  break- 
fast all  the  ships  cleared  away  for  Teste  Island,  the  most 
westerly  of  the  Louisiade  Group.      Here  they  came  to 
the  end  of  proclaiming  and  explaining.     On  the  follow- 
ing morning,  Wednesday,  Nov.  26,  all  were  full  of  life 
on   board   the   ships,    for    all   knew   the    end    of  the 
business  had  come,  and  Sydney  was   not  many  days 
distant.      Some   were   disappointed   because  they  had 
received  orders  to  remain  for  a  while  longer  on  the  New 
Guinea  coast.    A  flagstaff  was  erected  on  the  north-west 
side  of  the  island,  and  at  nine  o'clock  the  final  ceremony 
was  performed.     On  the  arrival  of  the  party  on  board 
there  was  a  lively  scene  alongside  the  "  Nelson."    Many 
canoes  had  drawn  near,  and  the  occupants  were  plenti- 
fully supplied  with  tobacco,  for  which  they  had  to  dive. 
That  noxious  weed  was  thrown  overboard  quite  regard- 
less of  quantity,  since  it  was  known  that  no  more  would 
be  required  to  procure  curios. 

*  It  was  impossible,  I  think,  to  have  such  work  better 
done  than  it  was  by  Commodore  Erskine.     Everywhere 
the  Address  and  Proclamation  were  carefully  explained 
to  the  natives,  and  it  was  evident  they  understood  it, 
from   the  questions   they  put    and   the    remarks  they 
made.     I  do  not  know  of  a  single  hitch  anywhere  in 
all  the  proceedings.     About  midday  I  went  on  board 
the  "  Raven,"  the  "  Nelson,"  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lawes 
on  board,  steaming  away  to  the  south. 

*The  following  morning  the  "Raven"  returned  to 


Tamate  as  Interpreter  229 

South  Cape,  where  I  went  on  with  my  mission  work, 
placing  New  Guinea  natives  as  teachers  amongst  their 
own  countrymen.  The  last  few  weeks  had  been  full  of 
excitement  and  considerable  knocking  about  in  ships 
and  boats  by  day  and  night,  and  I  was  not  sorry  for 
a  rest  and  change  of  work.' 

'In  December,  1884,  H.M.S.  " Raven "  received  instruc- 
tions at  Cooktown  to  proceed  immediately  and  take  me 
on  board,  and  with  all  dispatch  proceed  to  Huon  Gulf, 
and  there  hoist  the  British  flag.  The  "  Raven  "  arrived 
at  Port  Moresby,  after  picking  up  the  "  Ellengowan  "  and 
towing  her  in,  on  December  26.  Commander  Ross  was 
anxious,  according  to  instructions,  to  get  hold  of  me,  and 
he  knew,  "  No  '  Ellengowan  '  no  Chalmers  " — the  former 
reaching  port,  the  latter  was  ready  to  go.  There  was 
some  difficulty  in  getting  natives  to  coal  the  "  Raven  "  ; 
but  even  that  was  overcome,  and  on  Dec.  27  she  was 
again  ready  for  sea.  This  terrible  haste  astonished  the 
New  Guinea  natives,  who,  generation  after  generation, 
have  been  accustomed  to  do  as  their  fathers  did — move 
by  seasons,  and  not  press  time. 

'On  Sunday  morning  by  daybreak  we  were  away, 
having  Tamate  on  board  as  interpreter.  The  errand 
of  the  'V  Raven  "  was  to  proclaim  a  Protectorate  over  all 
the  then  unknown  annexed  portion  of  New  Guinea. 
With  tide  and  wind  in  our  favour,  instead  of  getting  to 
South  Cape  by  six  p.m.  we  were  there  before  noon. 
Three  weeks  before  the  "Raven"  had  been  there,  and  left  a 
teacher  belonging  to  the  London  Missionary  Society,  well 
and  hearty,  a  jolly,  kind-hearted  fellow  whom  all  liked, 
and  who  was  a  favourite  with  the  natives,  one  who  had 
done  the  London  Missionary  Society  good  and  faithful  ser- 
vice. The  first  words  spoken  to  us  on  the  beach  were, 
"Mataio  is  dead."  He  had  died  suddenly  from  yellow  fever. 


230    How  New  Guinea  came  under  the  Flag 

'  Natives,  in  charge  of  a  fine  young  New  Guinea 
teacher,  were  sent  to  get  spars  suitable  for  flagstaff's. 
Long  before  sundown  they  came  in  with  six  good  spars 
suitable  to  hoist  our  good  old  flag  on.  Next  morning 
by  daybreak  we  were  off  for  Dinner  Island.  I  was 
anxious  to  get  Paulo,  a  native  chief,  and  finding  that  he 
had  just  gone  to  Heath  Island,  we  accordingly  steamed 
there,  and  soon  picked  him  up.  We  found  Heath  Island 
and  Hayter  Island  at  war.  Captain  Ross  told  them  there 
must  be  no  fighting  until  he  returned  and  met  the  chiefs 
and  decided  the  whole  affair.  I  liked  that,  and  felt 
proud  of  our  British  Protectorate. 

1  We  then  steamed  for  Killerton.  The  mission  station 
here  is  a  model  farm,  splendidly  laid  out,  and  sufficiently 
extensive  for  all  purposes.  The  kindness  of  these  South 
Sea  Island  teachers  beat  everything.  On  our  return  to 
the  ship  we  were  laden  with  presents,  and  our  excellent 
commander  was  much  concerned  what  to  do  in  regard 
to  a  return  present.  On  the  last  day  of  1884  we  left 
Killerton,  and  steamed  away  for  East  Cape,  soon  to  find 
our  exit  barred  by  innumerable  reefs  ;  so  we  had  to 
right  about,  hold  away  in,  round  the  reefs,  and  then  run 
close  by  Lydia  and  the  smaller  islands,  and  steam  full 
speed  through  Goschen  Straits. 

'  It  was  a  splendid  sight :  on  the  left  the  high  mountains 
of  the  east  end  of  New  Guinea  rising  until  their  tops 
were  lost  in  clouds,  and  on  the  right  the  grand  bold 
land  of  Normanby  Island  rising  still  higher — magnificent 
outposts  of  the  grandest  island  in  the  world.  Very  little 
level  country  was  to  be  seen  on  either  hand,  but  plenty 
of  what  may  yet  be  the  region  of  large  tea,  coffee,  and 
cinchona  plantations.  All  night  we  kept  on,  our  gallant 
commander  being  anxious  to  carry  out  his  instructions 
to  the  letter,  and  if  possible  get  to  Huon  Gulf  the  next 


In  Porlock  Bay  231 

day.  Well,  Fortuna  favet  fortibus.  At  daybreak  we 
were  amongst  countless  reefs  and  ugly  pointed  rocks. 
"  Back,"  "slow,"  "ahead,"  "back,"  and  so  on  ;  for  hours 
we  were  wending  our  weary  way  through  these  sea 
terrors. 

'  In  the  afternoon  we  anchored  in  Porlock  Bay,  and 
soon  preparations  were  made  for  landing.  "  Lower 
boats,  lash  spar  to  gig,  embark  blue -jackets  and  marines," 
were  the  orders  given,  and  then  Captain  Ross,  his  officers, 
myself  with  the  native  interpreters,  followed.  A  few 
natives  were  seen  on  the  beach,  but  on  the  approach  of 
the  boats  they  all,  except  two,  disappeared  in  the  bush, 
and  these  also  decamped  on  our  getting  nearer.  Our 
native  interpreters  at  once  got  out  in  the  surf  and  gave 
chase,  coming  up  to  one  about  a  mile  inland.  They  say 
he  was  terribly  frightened,  and  would  on  no  account 
return  with  them.  They  gave  him  presents,  and  not 
being  able  to  speak  to  him,  not  knowing  the  dialect,  by 
signs  begged  of  him  to  accompany  them  ;  he,  by  signs, 
told  them  he  would  go  inland  and  get  all  his  friends, 
and  then  return.  He  left,  not  to  be  seen  again. 

'The  captain,  feeling  anxious  for  the  bush  party, 
went  inland  some  distance,  and  meeting  them,  returned 
to  find  the  staff  erected  and  all  ready.  They  then  hoisted 
the  flag,  and  from  the  "  Raven  "  twenty-one  guns  were 
fired.  The  blue -jackets  and  marines  gave  three  rounds 
feu-de-joie,  and  then,  to  conclude,  three  hearty  English 
cheers  rang  out  for  the  Queen.  The  captain  buried 
a  bottle  containing  the  Proclamation,  and  left  a  large 
present  near  the  flagstaff. 

*  In  the  evening  we  saw  from  the  ship  about  a  dozen 
natives  near  where  the  presents  were  left.  They  were 
carrying  sugar-cane,  and  we  at  once  landed.  On  our 
nearing  the  shore  all  disappeared,  and  we  found  the 


232    How  New  Guinea  came  under  the  Flag 

presents  untouched,  the  present  given  to  the  man  met 
in  the  bush  returned,  and  lying  alongside  the  other 
things,  and  close  by  a  large  bundle  of  good  sugar-cane, 
and  eighteen  cooked  bread-  fruit.  Our  interpreters  went 
into  the  bush,  but  did  not  succeed  in  seeing  any  one. 
We  left,  taking  their  present,  and  leaving  all  ours.  We 
pulled  some  distance  round  the  bay,  hoping  to  meet 
some  one,  but  failing,  and  night  and  rain  coming  on,  we 
returned  to  the  ship. 

'  On  January  3  we  left  early,  and  steamed  slowly  along 
the  coast.  We  anchored  near  to  Caution  Point,  and 
were  delighted  to  see  numbers  of  natives  on  the  beach. 
At  sunrise  next  morning  we  went  ashore,  and  were  met 
by  a  large  crowd,  and  helped  through  the  surf.  They 
danced  madly  round  us,  and  each  sought  a  friend.  They 
dug  the  hole,  and  carried  up  the  staff,  and  assisted  to 
erect  it;  but  when  the  blue-jackets  and  marines  fell  in 
and  marched  up  to  the  staff,  and  the  doctor  was  seen 
fixing  his  camera,  what  they  thought  we  know  not,  only 
there  was  a  general  stampede  to  the  bush.  We  detained, 
by  coaxing,  about  a  dozen  natives,  and  with  them  the  old 
chief,  whom  we  all  liked.  Fearing  to  frighten  them, 
there  was  no  firing,  only,  after  reading  the  Proclamation, 
presenting  arms  to  the  flag  aloft ;  then  were  three  lusty 
British  cheers  given,  and  again  a  few  decamped.  We 
gave  presents  all  round,  and  to  the  old  chief  several, 
including  a  tomahawk,  which  he  certainly  did  not  know 
how  to  use  or  what  it  was  for.  The  majority  now 
returned,  and  witnessed  the  old  chief  receive  the 
Proclamation  and  take  charge  of  the  flag. 

4  A  series  of  similar  incidents  on  the  return  voyage 
closed  the  proclaiming  of  the  Protectorate  over  all  this 
country  or  countries  between  Huon  Gulf  and  East  Cape, 
and  all  the  islands  of  the  D'Entrecasteaux  Group.  The 


Commodore  Erskine's  Testimony      233 

work  was  well  done,  and  Captain  Ross  and  his  officers 
shunned  no  difficulties  in  doing  it  well.' 

In  his  official  report,  dated  Sydney,  December,  1884, 
Commodore  Erskine  wrote: — 

4  It  will  readily  be  seen  that  it  would  have  been 
impossible  for  me  to  have  carried  out  this  programme 
without  the  assistance  of  the  Revs.  Messrs.  Chalmers 
and  Lawes,  whose  acquaintance  with  the  people  and 
knowledge  of  their  habits  are  well  known  and  acknow- 
ledged. From  the  moment  of  my  arrival  these  gentle- 
men have  placed  their  invaluable  services  entirely  at  my 
disposal.  They  have  been  ready  day  and  night  to  assist 
me  in  every  possible  way ;  they  have  spared  no  pains  in 
translating  and  explaining  the  terms  of  the  Proclama- 
tion and  addresses  which  I  have  made,  and  in  collecting 
the  numerous  chiefs  who,  but  for  them,  would  never 
have  come  near  the  ship. 

*  These  gentlemen,  who  first  came  and  settled  single- 
handed  amongst  these  wild  and  cannibal  tribes  about 
ten  years  ago,  have  by  their  firm  but  conciliatory  and 
upright  dealings,  established  such  a  hold  over  the 
natives,  as  many  a  crowned  head  would  be  proud  to 
possess.  I  have  been  lost  in  admiration  of  the  influence 
which  they  command  over  these  savage  but  intelligent 
people. 

'Under  these  circumstances  I  desire  to  testify  to  the 
invaluable  services  which  have  been  rendered  to  me 
by  Messrs.  Chalmers  and  Lawes,  and  to  express  the 
hope  that  they  will  be  duly  acknowledged  by  Her 
Majesty's  Government.  The  wonderful  confidence  shown 
by  the  natives  must  be  entirely  attributed  to  their  influence.' 

It  need  scarcely  be  said  that  the  Government  paid 
no  attention  to  the  commodore's  hope  that  some  official 
recognition  of  their  services  would  be  made.  Many 


234    How  New  Guinea  came  under  the  Flag 

difficulties  would  be  averted,  and  not  unfrequently 
bloodshed  and  expense  avoided,  if  the  officials  of  Britain, 
which  is  professedly  a  Christian  country,  could  bring 
themselves  to  believe  that  missionaries  are  intelligent 
men  who  love  their  own  country  none  the  less  because 
they  are  seeking  to  uplift  the  savages  or  the  heathen 
among  whom  they  live. 

It  is  only  fair  to  bear  in  mind  that  the  last  thing  any 
true  missionary  desires  is  government  reward.  In  all 
parts  of  the  world  missionaries  place  their  services  at 
the  disposal  of  the  government  when  this  can  be  done 
without  interfering  with  their  proper  work,  and  they 
do  this  ungrudgingly  and  without  the  desire  or  the 
expectation  of  any  recompense.  But  the  ordinary 
Christian  Englishman  sometimes  gets  indignant  when 
British  officials  make  all  kinds  of  wild  blunders  in 
dealing  with  foreign  peoples,  from  which  they  could 
be  saved  if  they  were  as  ready  to  consult  the  missionary 
as  they  are  the  globe-trotter  and  the  trader.  Not  for 
the  benefit  of  the  missionary,  but  for  the  credit  of  our 
government,  it  would  be  a  desirable  change  if  the  high 
authorities  of  our  Foreign  and  Colonial  Offices  could 
convince  themselves  that  a  man  who  has  given  his  life 
to  the  work,  and  who  knows  the  language  and  thoughts 
of  the  people,  is  at  least  as  good  a  judge  and  as  sound 
an  authority  to  be  consulted  as  the  consul,  who  knows 
little  about  the  people  and  cares  even  less,  or  as  the 
man  who  is  living  abroad  simply  to  make  money  and 
then  depart. 

Officers  like  Commodore  Erskine  often  acknowledge 
in  the  handsomest  way  their  indebtedness  to  mission- 
aries ;  but  so  far  as  the  British  Government  is  concerned, 
in  official  action  and  official  speech,  missionaries  are 
not  always  regarded  as  men  of  knowledge  and  common 


Tamate  a  'Really  Great  Englishman'  235 

sense  whose   experience    should    be   turned    to    good 
account. 

We  cannot  better  close  this  chapter  in  the  life 
of  Chalmers  than  by  recording  the  testimony  to  his 
worth,  and  the  exceptional  value  of  the  services  he 
rendered  to  the  nation,  given  by  Vice-Admiral  Bridge. 
In  a  letter  to  the  Times,  dated  May  4,  1901,  Admiral 
Bridge  said : — 

'I  first  met  Mr.  Chalmers  in  1884,  when  the  British 
flag  was  hoisted  in  Southern  New  Guinea  by  the  present 
Sir  James  Erskine,  who  then  commanded  the  squadron 
on  the  Australian  station.  I  was  at  that  time  serving 
under  Sir  James's  orders ;  and  I  am  sure  that  my 
distinguished  chief  will  be  most  ready  to  testify  to 
the  value  of  the  assistance  rendered  him  in  a  difficult 
operation  by  Mr.  Chalmers  and  his  colleague  Dr.  Lawes. 

'Mr.  Chalmers  accompanied  me  in  the  ship  I  then 
commanded  on  an  expedition  to  Kapakapa  and  Kaile, 
on  which  I  had  been  sent  by  Sir  James  Erskine.  At  my 
earnest  request  Mr.  Chalmers  again  accompanied  me, 
early  in  1885,  on  a  special  expedition — in  H.M.S. "  Dart," 
accompanied  by  the  present  Captain  W.  Usborne  Moore 
—to  North-eastern  New  Guinea  and  Rook  Island.  His 
vigilance,  cheeriness,  readiness  of  resource,  and  extra- 
ordinary influence  over  native  savages  made  his  help  quite 
invaluable.  I  can  honestly  say  that  I  do  not  know  how  I 
should  have  got  on  without  him.  He  had  an  equal 
power  of  winning  the  confidence  of  savages  quite  unused 
to  strangers,  and  the  respect,  and  even  love,  of  white 
seamen.  Notwithstanding  the  great  inconvenience  and, 
I  fear,  not  inconsiderable  expense  to  which  he  had  been 
put  by  giving  his  valuable  services  in  the  expeditions 
mentioned,  he  firmly  refused  to  allow  his  name  to  be 
officially  submitted  in  any  claim  for  pecuniary  remunera- 


236    How  New  Guinea  came  under  the  Flag 

tion,  or  even  to  accept  the  legitimate  compensation  to 
which  he  was  entitled. 

'  It  is  difficult  to  do  justice  in  writing  to  the  character 
of  this  really  great  Englishman.  One  had  only  to  know 
and  live  with  him  in  out-of-the-way  lands  to  be  convinced 
that  he  was  endowed  with  the  splendid  characteristics 
which  distinguished  our  most  eminent  explorers  and 
pioneers.' 

Another  of  the  officers  concerned  in  these  events 
wrote  in  later  years  : — 

'New  Guinea  is  an  unknown  tropical  corner  of  our 
Empire,  and  from  a  commercial  point  of  view  of  com- 
paratively little  value;  but  the  pioneer  work  done  by 
James  Chalmers  in  opening  up  communications  with  the 
natives,  and  thus  rendering  Europeans'  exploitations 
possible,  was  emphatically  imperial  in  character.  As  an 
explorer  and  pioneer,  his  name  should  stand  high  in  the 
annals  of  our  Imperial  history.  With  regard  to  the  man 
himself,  I  can  only  consider  myself  as  most  fortunate  to 
have,  in  a  very  small  way,  shared  in  his  work,  and  to 
have  been  accounted  by  him  amongst  his  friends.  He 
will  ever  live  in  memory  as  a  rich  emotional  nature  allied 
with  finest  fighting  qualities  of  our  Saxon  race,  and  as 
one  who  achieved  difficult  and  disappointing  work  with 
noble  sympathy  and  courage.' 


CHAPTER  XVI 

BOYS  WHOM  TAMATE  TRAINED 

TAMATE  had  all  the  qualities  of  a  great  leader.  Hence 
when  those  with  him  would  have  hung  back  in  dangerous 
duties,  his  courage  and  power  carried  them  forward. 
The  native  teachers  whom  he  either  trained  or  led  did 
splendid  service  in  New  Guinea.  Up  to  the  full  measure 
of  their  ability  they  toiled  hard  to  teach  the  New  Guinea 
savages  all  that  they  themselves  knew.  And  many  of 
them  died  bravely  in  lonely  stations  while  doing  the 
work  with  which  Tamate  had  entrusted  them.  He  has 
sketched  for  us  the  character  and  work  of  some  of  these 
men,  who  may  fairly  be  taken  as  examples  of  like 
courage  and  devotion  shown  by  large  numbers  whose 
names  even  are  unknown. 

'  Piri,  who  was  in  charge  of  the  station  at  Boera  when 
I  first  landed  in  New  Guinea,  was  a  noted  character.  He 
was  a  very  powerful  man,  stronger  far  than  any  New 
Guinean  I  have  met.  He  was  born  at  Avarua  about  the 
year  1835,  twelve  years  after  the  landing-  of  Papeiha, 
who  was  the  first  teacher  to  bring  the  Gospel  to  the 
islands.  Piri  attended  the  village  school,  and  was  taught 
to  read  and  write  there.  As  he  grew  up  towards  man- 
hood, he  cast  off  all  restraint,  and  gave  way  to  all  the 
evil  passions  of  the  youthful  native.  Orange-beer 
drinking  was  introduced  about  this  time  from  Tahiti, 
and  spread  all  round  the  island. 

'Piri  was  one  of  the  ringleaders  in  making  the  orange 


238          Boys  whom  Tamate  trained 

beer  and  drinking  it,  and  was  often  fined.  In  1857  the 
law  was  executed  with  a  little  more  stringency,  and 
several  times  Piri  came  under  its  ban.  For  this  he 
blamed  the  white  missionary,  and  determined  to  kill 
him  with  his  own  hands. 

'  Once  when  drunk  Piri  took  a  spade  and  made  for  the 
mission  house.  He  was  seen,  and  a  party  armed  with 
sticks  and  having  a  rope  set  off  in  pursuit  of  him.  As 
he  was  getting  on  to  the  verandah  of  the  mission  house 
they  seized  him,  and  with  great  difficulty  bound  him, 
and  led  him  back  to  the  coast.  He  was  kept  in  charge 
for  some  days,  and  when  really  sober  saw  the  terrible- 
ness  of  the  crime  he  had  been  saved  from  committing, 
and  vowed  that,  with  God's  help,  he  would  never  again 
taste  drink.  He  began  attending  the  services,  and 
became  truly  converted. 

'  Piri  became  a  man  so  filled  with  the  Holy  Spirit  as 
to  earnestly  seek  the  salvation  of  souls,  and  felt  com- 
pelled to  go  to  the  heathen.  He  joined  the  Institution, 
and  after  a  four  years'  course  was  sent  to  Samoa  to 
take  charge  there  of  a  colony  of  Cook  Islanders.  He 
hoped  in  this  way  to  get  nearer  than  he  could  at  home 
to  the  fulfilment  of  his  great  desire.  He  did  good  work 
whilst  in  Samoa.  His  wife  died  there.  Some  time  after, 
Maki,  the  widow  of  a  teacher  who  died  in  the  New 
Hebrides,  landed  at  Apia  on  her  way  to  her  home  on 
Mangaia.  Piri  asked  her  in  marriage,  and  she  consent- 
ing, they  were  married. 

'  This  wife  was  a  very  fine  woman.  Piri  was  her 
second  husband.  In  the  New  Hebrides  fever  attacked 
the  missionary  party,  and  all  except  two  women,  Piri's 
wife  one  of  them,  died.  These  women  were  at  first 
afraid  they  would  be  taken  by  the  chiefs  and  kept  as  their 
wives ;  but  one  old  chief  took  them,  and  treated  them  as 


Piri  a  New  Guinea  Pioneer  239 

his  daughters.  For  long-  they  waited,  and  every  morn- 
ing they  used  to  ascend  a  small  hill  at  the  back  of  the 
house,  and  scan  the  horizon  for  a  sail.  Even  when  sick 
with  fever  they  used  to  crawl  up.  It  was  a  long  weary 
waiting,  and  then  one  died,  leaving  Maki  alone.  All 
hope  of  ever  getting  away  was  given  up,  but  after  nearly 
two  years,  when  Maki  one  morning  ascended  to  the  look- 
out she  saw  a  speck  in  the  far-away  distance.  As  the 
speck  increased,  and  the  ship  came  near,  the  poor 
woman  was  overjoyed,  and  wept  profusely.  The  old 
chief  was  sorry  to  lose  his  daughter,  but  when  the 
vessel,  which  turned  out  to  be  the  "John  Williams,"  was 
off  the  island,  and  the  boat  came  ashore,  he  accompanied 
her  to  the  boat  weeping  bitterly.  The  "John  Williams " 
had  been  to  England  in  the  interval,  hence  the  delay, 

'In  1872  Messrs.  Murray  and  Wyatt  Gill  had  been 
appointed  to  take  the  first  batch  of  teachers  to  New 
Guinea,  and  see  them  landed  safely  somewhere  on  that 
savage  island.  In  July,  1872,  they  left  Rarotonga  in 
the  "John  Williams,"  calling  at  Samoa  on  their  way  to 
New  Guinea.  There  Piri  and  his  wife  pressed  Mr.  Gill 
so  hard  that  they  might  be  taken  to  New  Guinea  that 
he  consented,  and  so  they  made  the  sixth  couple  in  the 
company  of  native  teachers. 

4  Piri  was  a  very  fine  specimen  of  humanity.  He  was 
about  six  feet  two  inches  in  height,  and  large  in  pro- 
portion. When  they  arrived  in  Redscar  Bay  Mr.  Murray 
and  Mr.  Gill  decided  to  land  them  all  at  Manumanu. 
Piri  landed  in  a  flaming  red  shirt,  which  was  long 
remembered  by  the  older  natives.  The  natives  respected 
him  much  and  feared  him.  He  was  not  easily  moved  to 
anger,  but  when  he  was  once  aroused  it  was  advisable  to 
keep  out  of  his  way. 

'  I  remember  on  one  occasion  arriving  at  Boera  in  the 


240  Boys  whom  Tamate  trained 

night,  and  going  up  to  Piri's  house  to  have  a  sleep. 
Everything  was  left  in  the  boat,  so  as  to  be  ready  to 
start  when  the  tide  suited,  we  then  having  no  fear  of 
thieves.  After  breakfast,  the  boat  being  afloat,  I  went 
on  board  with  the  crew,  and  we  found  that  not  a  row- 
lock was  left.  Piri  was  on  the  beach  with  his  wife, 
and  I  landed  and  told  them  what  had  happened.  His 
wife  got  very  wroth,  but  no  one  seemed  to  mind  her  as 
she  went  through  the  village  demanding  the  return  of 
the  rowlocks.  We  then  sent  for  the  chief  and  headmen, 
and  met  them  in  Piri's  house.  Piri  quietly  told  them 
that  the  rowlocks  must  be  returned  to  the  boat.  The 
chief  and  headmen  had  a  run  through  the  village,  but 
it  was  of  no  use.  Piri,  now  thoroughly  roused,  stalked 
to  the  end  of  the  village  and  demanded  the  rowlocks, 
and  said  that  no  one  should  leave  the  village  until  they 
were  returned,  and  that  every  house  should  be  searched. 
He  looked  as  if  he  meant  what  he  said,  and  then  in  a 
very  strange  way  we  received  back  the  rowlocks  from 
a  woman  who  said  she  had  found  them  in  the  street. 
I  never  again  missed  anything  when  at  Boera.' 

From  Manumanu  Piri  and  his  wife  were  removed  with 
the  others  because  of  serious  illness,  fever  being  very 
bad  there.  One  man  had  died  and  three  of  the  women. 
Finally  all  were  removed  to  Somerset,  to  be  near  Mr. 
Murray.  In  November,  1873,  being  much  better,  the 
teachers  were  returned  to  New  Guinea  and  placed  at 
Port  Moresby.  For  sixteen  years  Piri  and  his  wife  did 
good  service  at  Boera,  and  their  work  was  blessed. 
*  Piri  accompanied  me  in  many  of  my  trips,  especially 
to  the  west  in  the  Gulf.  Several  Gulf  natives  who  had 
stayed  at  Boera,  and  received  many  kindnesses  from 
Piri  and  his  wife,  gave  us  a  good  welcome  to  their 
villages,  and  made  our  stay  with  the  people  much  more 


Death  of  Phi  241 

satisfactory  than  it  might  otherwise  have  been.  He  is 
said  to  have  introduced  the  large  potato,  and  for  years 
along  both  the  east  and  west  coast  it  was  called  by  his 
name.  In  1878  he  and  his  wife  spent  a  few  months 
with  us  at  Suau,  and  I  saw  much  of  Piri  then.  He  was 
a  good  man,  and  a  man  of  prayer,  and  when  addressing 
new  teachers  he  always  told  them  to  live  much  in 
prayer,  and  to  remember  that  Jesus  our  Master  was 
never  far  away,  but  ever  near.  In  1887  he  and  his  wife 
accompanied  us  to  Motumotu.  While  there  he  was 
attacked  with  dysentery.  He  got  better,  and  as  soon 
as  he  was  able  to  travel  he  left  us,  we  hoping  to  meet 
him  again  at  Boera,  but  his  work  was  done.  They 
got  safely  to  Boera,  where  he  had  a  relapse,  and  they 
were  taking  him  to  Port  Moresby  to  Mr.  Lawes  when 
he  died  on  the  way,  in  January,  1888.  In  May  of  the 
same  year  his  wife  followed  him.  She  was  to  have 
gone  home  to  Mangaia,  but  I  was  glad  she  was  called 
to  higher  service  where  her  husband  was.  They  both 
rest  side  by  side  at  Boera,  near  to  the  house  on  the  hill 
by  the  village. 

4  What  can  I  say  of  Ruatoka  ?  As  a  young  man,  we 
were  greatly  attached  to  him  and  his  wife.  He  was 
born  at  Tamarua,  Mangaia,  in  the  year  1846.  His 
parents  dedicated  him  when  young  to  the  work  of  God. 
When  a  lad  he  attended  Mr.  Wyatt  Gill's  school,  and 
made  fair  progress.  He  joined  the  church,  and  after- 
wards came  to  live  with  the  missionary  in  order  to 
prepare  for  entrance  into  the  Rarotonga  Institution. 
He  married  Tungane,  the  daughter  of  a  very  excellent 
Christian  couple.  Her  father  had  for  many  years  been 
the  missionary's  right-hand  man.  He  and  his  wife  came 
to  the  Institution.  As  a  young  man  he  was  very  tall 
and  very  thin,  and  I  feared  not  very  strong.  He  was 

Q 


242  Boys  whom  Tamate  trained 

all  that  could  be  desired,  and  I  never  once  heard  any- 
thing- against  him  or  his  wife.  We  became  very  much 
attached  to  them. 

'  The  year  before  sending  the  first  contingent  of 
teachers  to  New  Guinea,  and  before  any  had  been 
selected  for  the  work,  Ruatoka  broke  down  in  health, 
and  I  feared  would  never  be  able  to  go  out.  Re- 
covering a  little,  I  appointed  him  one  of  the  pioneer 
band,  contrary  to  the  strongly  expressed  views  of  many 
in  Rarotonga,  who  thought  I  was  throwing  away  a 
valuable  life.  Both  Ruatoka  and  his  wife  were  in 
ecstasies  at  the  thought  of  going,  yet  they  were  afraid 
with  a  great  fear  that  I  might  be  influenced  to  change 
the  appointment,  and  detain  them.  Going  about  to 
the  villages  agreed  with  him,  and  he  certainly  grew 
stronger.  Those  opposed  to  his  going  even  in  the 
last  week  thought  it  was  a  sin  to  send  him  only  to  die 
shortly  after  landing  on  New  Guinea.  But  I  felt  con- 
vinced I  was  right  in  sending  them,  and  for  years  he 
was  the  only  one  remaining  out  of  that  band  and  of 
several  subsequent  bands  that  were  sent. 

'  In  the  first  years  Ruatoka  and  his  wife  had  very 
hard  times,  knowing  much  sickness,  often  suffering  from 
hunger,  and  their  lives  frequently  threatened.  They 
have  often  had  to  keep  watch  all  night,  lest  they  should 
be  attacked  unawares ;  for  the  natives  everywhere  prefer 
that  style  of  fighting.  All  subsequent  bands  of  teachers 
were  landed  at  Port  Moresby,  and  then  placed  at  their 
stations  by  the  white  missionary.  Ruatoka  and  his  wife 
were  as  father  and  mother  to  these  newcomers.  When 
the  sick  teachers  were  brought  to  Port  Moresby  they 
nursed  them  day  and  night.  Many  died,  and  Ruatoka 
and  his  wife  made  their  coffins,  superintended  the  dig- 
ging of  their  graves,  and  gave  them  Christian  burial. 


Ruatoka's  Courage  and  Strength       243 

'In  1878  a  large  party  of  gold  prospectors  came  to 
New  Guinea,  making  Port  Moresby  their  head  quarters. 
Very  many  of  them  became  sick,  and  many  died,  and 
to  them  all  Rua  and  his  wife  were  ever  kind.  Ruatoka 
did  much  for  them.  Once  he  heard  the  prospectors 
were  about  to  be  attacked  by  inland  tribes,  and  he 
determined  if  possible  to  stop  it.  Getting  together  a 
few  Port  Moresby,  Motuan,  and  Koitapuan  natives,  he 
marched  inland,  visited  the  prospectors,  and  told  them 
what  he  had  heard.  They  feared  that  something  was 
about  to  happen  from  the  stealthy  ways  the  natives  were 
seen  to  move  about.  At  times  some  had  approached 
near  to  the  camp  at  night,  and  one  prospector  had  been 
badly  used  by  some  natives. 

'  Rua  had  heard  the  tribe  were  to  meet  at  Moumiri, 
and  so  he  determined  to  go  right  in  amongst  them. 
The  prospectors  chose  a  party  from  amongst  themselves, 
all  armed,  to  accompany  Rua,  and  if  necessary  fight  for 
him ;  but  Rua  decidedly  objected,  and  went  with  his 
natives  right  into  Moumiri,  where  there  was  a  great 
gathering  of  armed  men  from  all  the  region  round.  At 
first  the  natives  threatened  him,  but  he  took  no  further 
notice  than  to  say,  "  Why  do  you  want  to  kill  me  ?  what 
have  I  done  ?  "  He  then  reasoned  with  them,  preached 
to  them,  prayed  for  them,  and  the  end  was  that  they  all 
dispersed  to  their  homes.  The  prospectors  on  his 
return  thanked  him,  as  they  were  very  anxious  to  be  on 
friendly  terms  with  all  the  natives,  and  succeeded  in 
being  that  right  through. 

'On  two  occasions  Ruatoka  carried  prospectors  a 
long  distance  on  his  back  to  his  own  house,  and  so 
saved  their  lives.  One  was  Neville,  a  gentleman  by 
birth,  and  an  army  man,  who  begged  of  the  prospectors 
in  Sydney  to  be  allowed  to  accompany  them  for  the 

Q2 


244  Boys  whom  Tamate  trained 

sake  of  adventure.  He  was  on  his  way  in  from  the 
Larogi  to  Port  Moresby,  and  was  taken  very  ill,  and 
lay  down  to  die.  Natives  found  him,  but  as  it  was 
getting  near  night,  and  he  looked  like  dying,  they 
were  afraid  to  touch  him.  They  on  arriving  at  Port 
Moresby  told  Rua,  and  he  begged  them  to  return  with 
him,  and  help  him.  But  no  New  Guinea  native  could 
do  such  a  thing,  as  the  spirit  might  ever  afterwards 
haunt  them. 

4  Ruatoka  got  a  long  piece  of  cloth,  a  small  lantern, 
and  bottle  of  water,  and  started  in  the  dark.  About 
five  miles  out  he  was  searching  in  the  long  grass  when 
he  heard  low  moaning,  and  going  whence  the  sound 
came  he  found  poor  Neville  nearly  dead,  quite  un- 
conscious. He  gave  him  a  little  water,  then  fastening 
the  cloth  round  him  he  bent  down,  and  taking  the  two 
ends  in  his  hands,  and  using  all  his  strength,  he  got  the 
sick  man  on  his  back,  and  began  his  return  journey. 
He  had  to  cross  a  range  of  hills  over  300  feet  high,  and 
as  day  was  breaking  he  arrived  at  his  house,  and  laid 
the  sick  man  on  their  one  bed,  to  be  cared  for  by  his 
wife,  whilst  he  lay  down  dead  beat.  Neville  was  nursed 
back  to  life,  and  was  able  to  return  inland,  where  some 
time  after  he  died  from  another  attack  of  fever. 

*  Rua  was  a  true  Sabbatarian,  and  it  often  vexed  his 
soul  to  see  the  abuse  of  that  sacred  day.  No  Sabbath 
passed  that  Rua  did  not  make  some  reference  to  it  to 
the  few  natives  who  attended  the  services.  It  was  hoped 
gold  would  be  found  in  large  quantities,  and  a  German 
thought  the  best  paying  concern  would  be  a  store.  So 
he  built  one  a  little  way  from  the  back  of  the  mission 
ground.  When  the  store  was  finished  he  wanted  a 
cook-house,  and  that  he  got  a  Scotchman  who  was  in 
from  the  river  to  put  up.  The  roof  was  put  on,  and 


Ruatoka's  Rebuke  to  White  Men      245 

on  the  Sabbath,  when  Rua  was  holding  his  forenoon 
service,  there  was  the  loud  noise  of  hammering  iron. 
For  a  short  time  he  stood  it,  but  at  last,  telling  his 
audience  to  go  home,  he  went  to  his  own  house  to  get 
an  English  Bible,  in  which  he  found  the  chapter  and 
verses  containing  the  Fourth  Commandment.  He  then 
marched  to  where  the  cook-house  was  being  put  up. 
•  *  The  German  and  a  friend  were  sitting  on  the  door- 
step of  the  store,  and  saw  the  teacher  coming,  and 
wondered  what  was  the  matter,  as  he  looked  very 
solemn.  The  Scotchman  was  on  the  top  of  the  cook- 
house. Rua  came  just  beneath  him,  and  knowing  only  a 
little  Pidgin  English,  he  said,  pointing  to  the  man  on 
the  house,  "Say,  come  down."  The  white  man  was 
somewhat  astonished  to  have  such  a  peremptory  order 
from  a  coloured  man,  and  did  not  answer.  "  Say,  you 
know  savee,  I  speak  come  down."  The  white  man 
found  his  tongue,  and  I  believe  his  wrath  exploded 
in  fearful  cursing.  Again  Rua  said,  "What  do  you 
talk  ?  You  white  fellow  send  missionary  along  my 
country,  and  my  country  he  get  good,  and  he  like 
Sabati  much.  Before  my  countrymen  he  eat  you, 
but  no  now.  I  come  along  New  Guinea,  I  speak  man 
Sabati  he  tapu,  no  work,  no  fish,  no  hunt,  no  build 
house  on  Sabati ;  and  New  Guinea  man,  he  say,  Ruatoka, 
you  make  lie,  white  man,  he  work  Sabati.  What  for  you 
make  him  ?  Come  down."  Once  again  very  forceful 
adjectives,  and  the  teacher's  wrath  rises.  The  tall, 
powerful  man  at  last  makes  as  though  he  would  ascend 
the  ladder,  when  the  German,  knowing  well  what  would 
take  place,  shouts  out,  "  Rua,  my  friend,  stop !  "  and  to 
the  white  man,  "You  fool,  come  down  at  once,  can't  you 
see  it  is  our  friend  the  teacher,  and  we  are  wrong?" 
Rua  was  roused,  so  when  the  white  man  came  down,  he 


246          Boys  whom  Tamate  trained 

handed  him  the  Bible,  and  ordered  him  to  read  the 
verses  he  pointed  out,  and  at  once.  The  white  man  did 
it,  and  then  the  teacher  said,  "  God,  He  speak,  you  no 
work  now.  Put  down  hammer  belong  you."  There  was 
a  quiet  Sabbath  for  the  remainder  of  the  day. 

'I  took  many  trips  with  Rua  along  the  coast  and 
inland,  and  ever  found  him  an  excellent  travelling  com- 
panion. It  was  when  away  on  one  of  these,  looking  out 
for  an  inland  position  as  a  head  station,  that  his  wife 
was  left  in  entire  charge,  and  she  conducted  schools 
and  services  just  as  when  Rua  was  at  home.  One 
Sabbath  morning  she  was  speaking  about  God's  love 
in  giving  Jesus,  and  that  day  the  services  were  well 
attended.  In  the  afternoon  she  spoke  of  the  need  for 
the  Holy  Spirit  to  work  in  all  their  hearts,  and  said 
that  when  He  did  they  would  be  changed  and  love 
Jesus.  Nearly  midnight,  long  after  she  and  her  girls 
had  gone  to  bed,  there  was  a  knock  at  the  door,  and 
she  called  out,  "  Who  is  there  ? "  she  was  answered,  "  I." 
"  Who  are  you  ? "  again,  "  I."  No  native  likes  giving  his 
name.  The  girls  were  awakened,  and  one  of  them 
recognized  the  voice  as  that  of  Aruadaera,  and  said  so. 
Then  she  called  out,  "  Is  it  you,  Aruadaera  ? "  and  he 
answered,  "  It  is."  "  What  do  you  want  ? "  "  Open  the 
door  and  let  me  in,  and  I  will  tell  you."  He  was 
evidently  in  great  distress,  but  she  replied,  "  It  is  now 
very  late,  and  we  are  all  in  bed,  so  come  in  the  morning." 
"  No,  now ;  I  cannot  wait  until  the  morning." 

'  She  had  to  strike  a  match,  and  light  the  lamp,  and  let 
him  in.  " Now,  what  is  it ? "  "I  do  not  know  what  it 
is,  but  I  am  afraid,  and  I  think  it  must  be  the  Spirit  you 
spoke  of  working  in  my  heart.  I  am  afraid  to  lie  down, 
lest  I  should  die,  for  I  know  I  am  bad."  So  then  and 
there  she  told  him  of  Jesus,  and  prayed  for  him,  and 


Death  of  Ruatoka  247 

advised  him  to  go  home,  and  come  back  in  the  morning ; 
but  he  insisted  on  hearing  more,  and  being  prayed  for 
again.  He  left,  but  before  daylight  was  back  again, 
and  sitting  outside  the  door  waiting  for  it  to  be  opened. 
He  accepted  pardon  through  Christ,  and  became  quite  a 
changed  man.  He  was  the  first  baptized  native  in  New 
Guinea.  For  many  years  he  was  a  deacon  in  the  Port 
Moresby  church,  and  an  earnest  Christian  man.  He 
was  well  advanced  in  years  when  he  was  converted,  but 
he  learned  to  read  and  write.  Three  of  his  daughters 
became  wives  of  teachers,  and  did  very  excellent  work. 
He  was  a  great  help  to  Ruatoka  in  many  ways. 

'In  December,  1885,  Ruatoka  lost  his  wife,  after 
a  very  short  illness.  She  had  shared  the  sufferings  of 
the  first  hard  years  of  the  mission,  and  had  been  the 
first  to  teach  girls  to  read,  sew  and  iron.  Some  time 
after  Ruatoka  married  the  widow  of  a  teacher,  and  she 
became  a  very  great  help  to  him  in  all  his  work. 

4  During  the  many  changes  of  white  missionaries  at 
Port  Moresby,  Ruatoka  stuck  bravely  to  his  work  there. 
For  twenty-six  years  he  had  only  one  change,  and  that 
to  Cooktown,  where  he  spent  a  few  days.  He  was 
greatly  respected  by  all.  The  governor,  government 
officials,  and  all  the  whites  spoke  highly  of  him,  and  the 
natives  looked  to  him  as  to  a  father.  His  was  a  grand 
career.' 

He  did  not  long  survive  his  beloved  master  Tamate. 
After  the  news  of  his  death  at  Dopima  Ruatoka  asked 
to  be  allowed  to  go  and  preach  the  Gospel  to  the 
savages  who  had  killed  unwittingly  their  best  friend. 
But  this,  though  it  shows  the  spirit  and  courage  of 
Ruatoka,  could  not  be.  His  long  and  useful  life  closed 
in  1903.  He  died  at  Port  Moresby  in  a  ripe  old  age, 
respected  by  all  who  ever  met  him,  and  beloved  by  those 


248          Boys  whom  Tamate  trained 

who  had  worked  by  his  side  and  seen  the  beauty  and 
power  of  his  life. 

We  give  two  or  three  other  examples  of  how  the  love 
of  Christ  can  and  does  transform  savages  into  happy 
and  useful  Christian  workers.  Tamate  wrote  of  another : 

'  Pi  was  the  first  of  the  Rarotongan  boys  brought  up 
under  my  care  who  desired  to  become  a  teacher.  He 
was  a  quiet,  good  boy,  and  although  not  over  quick, 
was  a  good  plodder,  and  made  progress.  His  father, 
Paniani,  was  a  queer  mixture,  a  man  full  of  good 
intentions,  but  weak,  and  ever  stepping-  forward,  only 
to  drift  back  again.  He  gave  his  son  gladly  to  the 
work  of  Christ,  and  he  ever  spoke  of  his  son,  who 
was  for  Christ's  sake  preparing  for  foreign  work,  as 
an  honour  to  his  father.  After  some  years  Pi  wished 
to  prepare  for  New  Guinea.  He  married  a  quiet,  in- 
telligent girl,  and  they  both  lived  happily  with  us. 
After  four  years  of  student  life  he  and  his  wife  were 
sent  to  New  Guinea.  No  one  could  ever  say  an  evil 
word  of  either  of  them.  During  all  the  years  Pi  was 
with  us  I  never  once  heard  his  name  connected  with  any 
evil. 

*  He  stayed  with  us  for  some  time  at  Suau,  and  then 
I  placed  him  at  the  Leocadie.  But  in  a  short  time  so 
many  teachers  died  that  I  was  forced  to  bring-  Pi  back 
to  take  charge  of  Suau,  and  right  well  he  did  his  work. 
There  he  lost  his  wife,  and  after  some  time  he  married 
the  widow  of  one  of  our  teachers,  and  she  dying-,  he 
was  again  left  a  widower,  and  for  a  long  time  simply 
gave  himself  to  his  work.  In  1885  he  married  the 
widow  of  one  of  the  teachers  murdered  at  Kalo,  but 
she  only  lived  a  short  time,  and  in  1887,  when  on  a  visit 
to  Port  Moresby,  Pi  died.  He  was  greatly  mourned  by 
the  natives  of  the  east  end  of  New  Guinea,  for  whose 


Pi's  Translation  of  Mark's  Gospel     249 

uplifting  he  had  worked  hard  during  ten  years.  He 
was  quiet  and  lovable,  and  yet  very  firm.  These  were 
qualities  not  found  in  the  New  Guinea  savages,  yet 
thoroughly  appreciated  by  them. 

'In  1878,  at  Suau,  I  translated  a  few  hymns  and  two 
chapters  of  Mark's  Gospel.  For  a  long  while  these 
were  all  the  literature  we  had  to  help  us  in  our  work. 
Pi  gained  a  wonderfully  correct  knowledge  of  the 
language,  and  I  urged  him  to  translate  the  Gospel  of 
Mark  and  to  get  the  assistance  of  the  most  suitable 
natives.  After  a  long  time  he  finished  the  Gospel, 
revised,  and  re-revised  it,  and  then,  accompanied  by  the 
natives  who  had  helped  him,  brought  the  manuscript  to 
me  at  Port  Moresby,  and  we  together  again  revised  it, 
and  then  sent  it  to  Sydney,  where  it  was  printed.  The 
New  Guinea  Mission  could  do  with  many  more  men 
like  Pi.' 

When  Tamate  returned  to  take  up  work  at  Toaripi 
he  had  relied  greatly  upon  the  help  of  a  young  devoted 
native  teacher  named  Tauraki.  But  shortly  before  his 
return  the  natives  of  the  Moveave  district  murdered  him. 
Tauraki  was  the  son  of  Elikana,  a  native  of  Rakaanga, 
one  of  the  islands  of  the  Penrhyn  Group,  the  man,  who 
by  a  series  of  adventures  among  the  most  romantic  and 
striking  in  the  history  of  the  Pacific,  was  the  agent  in 
introducing  Christianity  into  the  Ellice  Islands.  Tauraki, 
his  son,  had  in  early  days  been  a  favourite  pupil  in 
Chalmers's  boys'  school  in  Rarotonga,  and  followed  him 
to  New  Guinea,  and  settled  at  Toaripi. 

Chalmers  in  a  letter  dated  September  38,  1887,  tells 
the  story  of  his  end : — 

4  Tauraki,  who  was  murdered,  his  wife  and  child  and 
ten  natives,  left  their  homes  one  Sunday  night  about  ten 
o'clock,  and  went  down  some  distance  to  an  island  just 


250  Boys  whom  Tamate  trained 

at  the  mouth  of  a  river,  and  slept  there,  so  as  to  be  ready 
for  an  early  start  in  the  morning.  They  wished  to 
ascend  the  river,  and  collect  the  bulb  used  in  making  the 
best  arrowroot.  Monday  and  Tuesday  were  spent  in 
collecting  this  bulb.  They  returned  down  the  river  on 
Tuesday  afternoon,  and  when  approaching  a  bend  they 
saw  a  large  number  of  canoes,  each  with  the  fighting- 
wisp  in  front.  They  tried  to  get  back  by  another  route, 
but  that  way  was  also  blocked.  They  then  just  drifted 
down  the  stream,  and  the  canoes  closed  on  them. 

'Tauraki's  wife  begged  him  to  fire  a  shot  from  his 
fowling-piece  or  rifle,  and  thus  to  frighten  the  natives, 
but  he  would  not.  There  was  a  contention  amongst  the 
enemy — some  pleading  that  there  should  be  no  fighting, 
others  declaring  that  they  would  murder  the  whole 
party.  Hoping  to  make  friends,  the  wife  distributed 
some  tobacco ;  but  soon  the  arrows  began  to  fly. 
Tauraki's  child  was  wounded  by  an  arrow.  His  wife 
was  also  wounded,  and  two  natives  fell  dead.  She  had 
the  fowling-piece  in  her  hand,  and  fired,  and  the  shot 
scared  those  near.  Tauraki's  party  had  two  canoes 
lashed  together,  and  some  of  their  natives  sprang  over- 
board and  got  between  the  canoes.  His  wife  with  the 
child  followed,  and  the  husband  stood  up  with  several 
arrows  sticking  in  him,  and  began  firing  his  rifle.  This 
scared  the  enemy,  and  they  all  plunged  into  the  river. 

'  Those  with  Tauraki  who  were  still  alive,  and  his 
wife  and  child,  got  into  the  canoe,  and  paddled  away. 
It  was  then  getting  dark,  and  they  were  a  long  way 
from  home.  Their  great  want  was  water,  but  they  kept 
on,  and  about  midnight  got  to  the  beach  near  their  own 
house.  On  landing  the  child  expired.  The  teacher  and 
wife  were  helped  up  to  the  house  of  Mr.  Edelfelt,  resident 
at  Toaripi,  who  with  his  wife  did  everything  possible  for 


Story  of  Tauraki  251 

them.  But  on  Saturday  morning  Tauraki  died,  the  wife 
recovering. 

4  Five  natives  of  Motumotu  who  had  been  in  Tauraki's 
canoe  were  dead.  The  attack  was  really  made  in  order 
to  kill  the  natives  with  him.  If  Tauraki  would  have 
consented  to  go  on  board  one  of  the  enemy's  canoes, 
with  his  wife  and  child,  all  would  have  been  well  for 
them.  But  that  he  nobly  refused  to  do,  saying  that  he 
would  stand  by  his  friends,  and  if  need  be  die  with  them. 
Eh,  'tis  a  sad,  sad  story.  He  was  our  very  best  teacher, 
and  from  him  I  hoped  much.' 

In  a  subsequent  letter  of  this  time,  Chalmers  wrote : — 
'We  had  another  teacher  and  his  wife  at  Motumotu. 
In  January  of  this  year  the  husband  died  from  fever, 
and  a  few  months  later  the  wife  followed.  Yet  there  is 
light  in  the  darkness — lives  given  to  Christ  and  man. 
Following  in  His  footsteps,  they  count  not  their  lives 
dear ;  as  He  went  to  Calvary,  knowing  all,  so  do  they, 
trusting  in  Him,  and  following  His  example.  Christ 
shows  us  how  to  live,  and  also  how  to  die,  and  there  are 
still  Calvarys  with  their  grand  life-ending.' 


CHAPTER  XVII 

LIFE  AT  TOARIPI 

IN  1886  Tamate  revisited  Great  Britain  for  the  first 
time  in  twenty-one  years.  He  made  an  immense  number 
of  friends.  He  spoke  at  many  meetings  both  small  and 
great,  and  wherever  he  went  he  became  an  inspiration 
to  those  who  met  and  heard  him.  His  influence  ex- 
tended far  beyond  the  ordinary  religious  circles  because 
his  sympathies  were  so  wide.  The  secret  of  this  influence 
is  found  in  speeches  like  that  which  he  gave  at  a  great 
meeting  in  Exeter  Hall. 

'I  have  had  twenty-one  years'  experience  amongst 
natives.  I  have  seen  the  semi-civilized  and  the  un- 
civilized; I  have  lived  with  the  Christian  native,  and 
I  have  lived,  dined,  and  slept  with  the  cannibal.  I  have 
visited  the  islands  of  the  New  Hebrides.  I  have  visited 
the  Loyalty  Group,  I  have  seen  the  work  of  missions  in 
the  Samoan  Group,  I  know  all  the  islands  of  the  Society 
Group,  I  have  lived  for  ten  years  in  the  Hervey  Group, 
I  know  a  few  of  the  groups  close  on  the  line,  and  for  at 
least  nine  years  of  my  life  I  have  lived  with  the  savages 
of  New  Guinea  ;  but  I  have  never  yet  met  with  a  single 
man  or  woman,  or  a  single  people,  that  your  civilization 
without  Christianity  has  civilized.  For  God's  sake  let 
it  be  done  at  once!  Gospel  and  commerce,  but  remember 
this,  it  must  be  the  Gospel  first.  Wherever  there  has 
been  the  slightest  spark  of  civilization  in  the  Southern 
Seas  it  has  been  because  the  Gospel  has  been  preached 


Tamate's  Eloquence  253 

there,  and  wherever  you  find  in  the  Island  of  New  Guinea 
a  friendly  people,  or  a  people  that  will  welcome  you, 
there  the  missionaries  of  the  Cross  have  been  preaching 
Christ.  Civilization  !  The  rampart  can  only  be  stormed 
by  those  who  carry  the  Cross. 

4  Recall  the  twenty-one  years,  give  me  back  all  its 
experience,  give  me  its  shipwrecks,  give  me  its  standings 
in  the  face  of  death,  give  it  me  surrounded  with  savages 
with  spears  and  clubs,  give  it  me  back  again  with  spears 
flying  about  me,  with  the  club  knocking  me  to  the 
ground,  give  it  me  back,  and  I  will  still  be  your  mis- 
sionary ! 

4  How  do  we  preach  the  Gospel  ?  No,  we  do  not  go 
with  a  black  coat  and  white  necktie,  standing  in  the  boat 
with  a  Bible  in  our  hand.  We  go  as  man  to  man,  to 
try  and  live  the  Gospel.' 

Tamate  returned  to  New  Guinea  in  June,  1887.  He 
had  determined  to  make  Motumotu  or  Toaripi,  to  give  it 
the  correct  name,  his  new  head  quarters.  This  station 
lies  some  distance  to  the  west  of  Port  Moresby,  and  the 
natives  there  were  a  wild,  rowdy  lot.  They  thus  pre- 
sented an  especial  attraction  to  Tamate.  While  at  home 
he  became  engaged  to  be  married  to  an  old  and  intimate 
friend  of  his  first  wife,  and  in  1888  this  lady  came  out 
to  him,  and  they  were  married  at  Cooktowri.  Together 
they  went  to  Toaripi  to  attempt  to  establish  there  a 
Christian  home,  and  a  centre  of  light  and  help  for  the 
wild  natives  who  hitherto  had  rejoiced  only  in  robbery 
and  bloodshed.  The  following  description  of  the  place 
and  people  and  conditions  of  life  there  is  from  the  pen 
of  Mrs.  Chalmers : — 

4  There  are  a  great  number  of  creeks  about  Toaripi, 
near  the  coast,  and  often  when  the  Port  Moresby  natives 
came  up,  the  tide  was  high,  and  they  found  the  creeks 


254  Life  at  Toaripi 

full  of  water,  which  turned  the  place  into  a  number  of 
islands.  So  they  named  the  district  Motu-Motu,  for  in 
their  language  Motu  means  an  island,  and  Motu-Motu 
is  the  plural,  meaning  a  number  of  islands. 

'  I  first  arrived  at  Toaripi  in  the  middle  of  the  night, 
and  could  not  see  anything,  except  wild-looking,  dark 
figures,  waving  lighted  torches,  and  dancing  about  in 
great  excitement  amidst  showers  of  bright  sparks.  Next 
morning  I  was  awake  early,  and  heard  a  great  chattering 
outside.  At  first,  for  a  few  moments,  I  could  not  re- 
member where  I  was.  I  will  tell  you  about  our  room,  and 
you  can  imagine  how  strange  it  looked  when  I  opened 
my  eyes.  The  walls  were  of  dark  and  very  rough- 
looking  wood ;  the  planks  did  not  fit  well  together,  and 
so  daylight  showed  through  in  many  places.  A  high 
thatched  roof,  well  and  evenly  done  ;  no  windows ;  three 
doorways,  but  never  a  door,  simply  a  native  mat  before 
the  two  outer  doorways,  and  a  blanket  hung  before  the 
one  leading  to  the  other  room.  The  partition  between 
the  rooms  was  about  seven  feet  high,  half  the  floor 
covered  by  a  native  mat,  and  on  it  our  mattress.  Two 
boxes  and  an  empty  packing-case,  with  a  bowl  on  it, 
served  as  washstand. 

'  A  little  light  showed  over  the  partition  from  the 
open  doors  of  the  next  room.  The  voices  seemed  very 
close  to  me,  and  when  I  looked  down,  where  the  mat 
did  not  cover,  I  saw  between  the  floor  planks  several 
dark  forms  moving  about  underneath  the  house ;  for 
you  must  remember  the  house  was  built  on  piles  six  feet 
above  the  ground. 

'  When  dressed  I  drew  aside  the  mat  which  did  duty 
for  a  door.  Glorious  sunshine,  and  the  grand  sea  waves 
rolling  up  to  within  a  few  yards  of  the  house.  On  the 
strip  of  sand  in  front  a  great  number  of  natives  waiting 


Mrs.  Chalmers  at  Toaripi  255 

to  see  me.  Very  many  children — bright,  happy-looking 
boys  and  girls :  some  full  of  mischief  and  pranks,  and  all 
anxious  to  see  the  white  lady.  When  I  appeared  there 
were  shouts  of  welcome,  and  all  called  me  by  the  name 
of  Tamate  Hahine,  that  means  Tamate's  wife. 

'  How  I  longed  to  be  able  to  talk  to  them,  and  to 
understand  what  they  were  saying  about  me.  I  wanted 
to  ask  and  answer  many  questions,  but  of  course  I  could 
not  do  so.  I  was  evidently  a  great  curiosity  to  them. 
The  bolder  ones  came  up,  took  hold  of  my  hands, 
touched  my  hair,  and  examined  my  clothes.  They  were 
especially  interested  in  my  shoes  and  stockings.  As 
I  sat  on  the  verandah  or  platform,  they  could  reach  my 
slippers ;  first  they  stroked,  and  then  ventured  to  draw 
them  on  and  off.  You  would  think  the  children  very 
strange,  and  I  am  afraid  that  at  first  you  might  say: 
"  Dear  me,  how  ugly  these  New  Guinea  children  are  "  ; 
but,  when  you  examine  the  little  faces,  many  of  them  are 
quite  bonnie.  Their  heads  are  shaved  ;  only  a  small 
tuft  of  hair  left  on  the  crown  of  the  head,  and  another 
near  the  front.  They  do  not  wear  clothes,  and  have 
brown  skins,  the  colour  of  nice  bright  chocolate.  Tamate 
joined  me  outside,  and  we  tried  to  talk  to  them.  You 
would  have  been  very  much  amused.  We  did  not  know 
a  word  of  their  language,  and  of  course  they  did  not 
know  one  word  of  ours.  They  are  very  quick  to 
understand,  and  some  began  to  tell  me  the  names  of  the 
things  I  touched,  and  so  we  began  to  learn  a  little,  but 
we  made  very  funny  mistakes  on  both  sides,  and  there 
was  much  laughter.  I  gave  them  beads,  and  small  fish- 
hooks, and  we  became  very  good  friends.  Later  on 
they  escorted  me  through  their  village,  showed  me  their 
homes,  and  fathers  and  mothers. 

*  Parents  are  very  fond  of  their  children,  and  nurse, 


256  Life  at  Toaripi 

kiss,  and  play  with  them  quite  as  much  as  good  white 
parents  do  with  their  little  ones.  They  have  such  a 
funny  way  of  kissing — instead  of  pressing  the  lips 
together,  they  press  their  noses  together,  and  rub  them 
gently.  I  have  seen  little  ones  run  to  father  or  mother, 
climb  into  their  arms,  and  rub  noses  in  a  loving  manner, 
and  they  seem  to  enjoy  it  very  much. 

'  All  the  children  are  very  fond  of  playing  cat's  cradle, 
and  they  are  much  cleverer  at  the  game  than  we  are. 
The  boys  have  many  merry  games,  and,  like  British 
boys,  they  have  different  games  for  different  times  of  the 
year.  Fathers  and  elder  brothers  help  them  to  make 
pretty  canoes,  with  neat  sails  and  paddles.  Some  of 
these  are  large  enough  for  a  small  child  to  get  inside, 
and  paddle  about  in  shallow  waters ;  others  are  simply 
toys.  They  are  fond  of  mimic  warfare,  and  have  toy 
bows  and  arrows,  clubs,  and  throwing-sticks  sharpened 
like  spears.  The  older  men  take  great  interest  in  this 
pastime,  and  teach  the  boys  how  to  use  their  arms  like 
warriors.  The  girls  have  not  many  games;  they  are 
fond  of  playing  and  dancing  on  the  beach,  and  they  take 
great  care  of  their  wee  sisters  and  brothers,  and  help  to 
plant  food,  to  fish,  and  to  do  other  work. 

'The  sea  is  a  grand  playfellow  for  all  the  young 
people,  and  they  spend  more  than  half  their  leisure  time 
in  or  on  the  water.  Even  the  small  children  can  swim, 
and  the  boys  are  fond  of  practising  surf-swimming.  We 
have  a  great  deal  of  surf.  When  the  waves  break  one 
behind  another,  often  three  or  more  lines  of  them,  and 
send  up  grand  showers  of  white  spray,  then  is  a  fine 
time  for  the  boys.  They  get  a  piece  of  wood  plank, 
about  a  foot  wide  and  two  feet  long,  and  hollow  a  place 
at  one  end  for  the  arm  to  rest  in ;  then  swim  out,  away 
beyond  the  wild  breakers.  When  the  next  wave  comes, 


Native  Boys  at  play  257 

they  throw  themselves  upon  it,  resting  one  arm  on  the 
board,  and  ride  in  on  the  very  top  of  the  high  waves 
amidst  the  white  surf.  Often  I  lose  sight  of  them 
altogether — can  see  nothing  but  the  mass  of  foam  and 
spray,  and  I  think  they  must  have  been  carried  away ; 
but  they  always  turn  up  safe  and  sound  on  the  beach, 
where  they  give  themselves  a  good  shake.  A  few 
moments  in  the  hot  sun,  and  they  are  dry,  have  got 
a  new  supply  of  breath,  and  are  ready  for  another  start. 
I  think  it  must  be  a  fine  sensation  to  be  carried  in  on 
the  top  of  those  big  waves. 

'  One  afternoon  I  saw  a  number  of  boys  standing  in 
a  line  on  the  firm  beach.  Each  had  a  good-sized  hoop 
made  of  bamboo,  and  a  long,  pointed  stick  sharpened 
like  a  spear.  Suddenly  there  was  a  shout,  and  away 
bowled  the  hoops ;  but,  instead  of  the  boys  running 
after  them,  as  I  expected,  they  just  advanced  a  short 
distance,  and  each  threw  a  stick  after  his  own  hoop. 
The  aim  was  to  make  the  stick  pass  through  the  running 
hoop,  fix  in  the  ground,  and  so  cause  the  hoop  to  fall 
around  it.  Very  many  succeeded  in  doing  the  trick,  and 
I  am  sure  it  must  have  been  difficult  to  manage.  It 
would  be  a  good  game  for  English  boys  to  try  on  a 
sandy  beach. 

'  Very  often  the  children  go  to  the  lagoon  or  the  river 
to  bathe,  but  they  always  go  in  numbers,  for  it  is  not 
safe  to  go  singly,  on  account  of  the  crocodiles.  At  the 
lagoon  they  get  quantities  of  shell-fish,  something  like 
our  cockles  and  oysters.  After  bathing,  they  make  fires 
on  the  sand,  roast  their  shell-fish,  and  have  a  good  time. 
I  have  seen  as  many  as  a  dozen  fires  at  once,  with  a  little 
group  round  each,  enjoying  themselves. 

'  I  used  to  wonder  why  they  made  such  a  deafening 
noise  when  bathing ;  such  a  yelling,  splashing,  shouting, 

R 


258  Life  at  Toaripi 

and  screaming-  I  never  heard.  I  was  told  it  was  to 
frighten  away  the  crocodiles,  who  do  not  like  a  great 
noise,  and  will  not  attack  a  crowd.  They  are  dreadful 
creatures,  and  often  lie  in  wait  near  the  bank,  just  under 
the  surface  of  the  water,  ready  to  seize  any  poor  un- 
fortunate mortal  who  gets  separated  from  the  others. 

'  I  had  a  native  boy — a  dear,  bright  little  fellow,  about 
seven  years  old.  He  had  been  with  me  some  time,  and 
was  quick  to  learn  and  very  affectionate.  I  was  very  fond 
of  dear  little  Piri.  One  day  he  and  two  or  three  more 
little  playfellows  were  amusing  themselves  on  the  beach, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Hand  in  hand,  with  great 
shouting  and  splashing,  they  had  been  running  to  meet 
and  jump  over  the  incoming  wave  as  it  broke  on  the 
sand.  Little  Piri  suddenly  left  the  others,  and  ran  to 
jump  over  a  larger  wave,  further  from  the  shore.  Poor 
laddie,  he  was  never  seen  again.  Only  one  cry  and  the 
blood  on  the  water  told  his  dreadful  fate.  Ah,  it  was 
very  sad ;  his  poor  father  and  mother  were  almost  heart- 
broken for  the  loss  of  their  eldest  son,  and  I  shed  many 
tears  for  our  dear  little  Piri.  Piri's  father  and  mother 
are  both  Christians,  and  so  they  look  forward  to  meeting 
their  little  boy  in  heaven,  and  they  know  he  is  safe  and 
happy  there.' 

The  house  in  which  Tatnate  and  his  wife  lived  was 
about  fifty  feet  long,  and  divided  into  three  rooms ;  the 
partitions  were  the  height  of  the  outer  walls  only,  and 
left  the  very  high,  pointed,  thatched  roof  open  from  end 
to  end.  At  night  it  was  too  lively — rats,  mice,  and,  on 
the  roof,  lizards  running  all  over  it  in  armies.  The 
latter,  Mrs.  Chalmers  tells  us,  were  very  tame,  and 
made  a  cheery  chirp,  and  hunted  the  spiders,  tarantulas 
and  others,  big  and  little,  cockroaches  and  crickets,  and 
beetles  of  all  kinds. 


Mrs.  Chalmers  alone  with  Savages      259 

The  district  of  Toaripi  was  inhabited  by  about  3,000 
wild  savages,  big,  fine,  handsome  men,  arrayed  in  truly 
savage  style.  Every  day  about  5  p.m.  some  of  the  swells 
visited  the  house  fully  got  up  for  conquest.  They 
looked  very  fine,  with  their  hair  in  a  great  bush,  and 
beautifully  dressed  ;  some  had  plumes  a  yard  long  made 
of  tiny  white  feathers,  and  leaves  and  flowers  tucked 
into  their  belts  and  armlets.  The  faces  of  some  of  them 
were  beautifully  painted  in  various  designs  and  colours, 
like  fine  network,  while  others  were  horridly  smeared 
with  paint — their  bodies  also  were  greased  and  polished 
to  perfection.  The  tight  belt  round  the  waist  was  the 
only  clothing  the  men  wore. 

Tamate  and  his  wife  felt  that  this  was  a  fine  sphere 
of  work,  that  these  savages  were  people  worth  helping, 
and  when  they  settled  down  there  they  expected  to 
spend  the  rest  of  their  working  life  at  Toaripi. 

From  the  earliest  days  of  their  life  at  Toaripi  Mrs. 
Chalmers  had  to  get  used  to  being  left  alone.  The 
trips  taken  by  Tamate,  in  the  prosecution  of  his  work, 
varied  in  length  from  three  or  four  days  to  six  or  seven 
weeks.  They  were  for  him  seasons  of  hard  work, 
exposure  to  storms  and  difficult  landings.  To  his  wife 
they  were  times  of  loneliness,  often  of  vexation  and 
difficulty  with  her  boys  and  girls,  and  sometimes,  in  the 
early  days,  of  extreme  danger.  But  she  always  bore 
them  bravely  and  uncomplainingly,  as  the  following 
letter  shows: — 

*  Here  I  am,  all  alone.  Tamate  left  this  morning. 
I  think  I  should  have  gone  with  him,  but  since  my  attack 
of  fever  three  weeks  ago  I  have  been  so  weak  and  ill 
that  I  did  not  think  it  advisable  to  venture.  Tamate 
said  not  a  word  about  going  until  after  breakfast,  and 
then  suddenly,  at  nine  a.m., "  Lassie,  there  is  a  good  wind 

R2 


260  Life  at  Toaripi 

and  sea,  so  I  must  away."  Naimi  sought  up  a  crew,  and 
by  ten  a.m.  they  were  really  off,  bag  and  bag-gage.  The 
wind  has  been  favourable,  so  I  hope  all  is  well  with 
them. 

*  I  have  been  very  busy,  and  the  day  has  passed  quickly 
away.  I  had  all  our  boys  for  lessons,  and  they  enjoyed 
it.  I  could  not  hear  reading  and  spelling,  but  we  had 
counting  tables,  and  sums,  and  then  writing.  We  make 
each  other  understand  somehow,  and  they  think  it  fine 
fun  all  round.  I  shall  take  them  every  day  if  I  keep 
well.  Many  natives  have  been  round  to  visit  me,  and 
to  tell  me  there  is  a  good  wind  for  Tamate.  Really 
they  came  to  beg  tobacco,  but  I  only  gave  to  our  old 
pensioners.' 

In  a  community  like  Toaripi  life  was  not  likely  to  be 
dull.  Mrs.  Chalmers  notes  in  her  journal  constantly 
events  like  the  following : — 

'These  people  are  very  quiet  at  present,  but  there 
has  been  fighting  at  Maiva  and  Kivori,  and  very  cruel 
spearing  to  death.  The  other  day  Tamate  started  up, 
saying,  "  Listen,  there's  the  death  wail."  Again  and 
again  it  sounded,  such  a  weird,  mournful  sound,  and  then 
two  women,  the  wife  and  daughter  of  the  dead  man,  came 
out  of  the  house,  quite  nude,  each  heading  a  procession 
of  women  ;  they  went  in  opposite  directions,  taking  the 
paths  he  was  most  accustomed  to  tread,  each  leader 
chanting  a  sad  solo,  and  now  and  again  at  various 
stopping-places  all  the  women  joined  in  chorus.  It  was 
a  strange  sight  and  sounded  most  mournful.  We  have 
lost  three  teachers  here  in  less  than  six  weeks ;  two  were 
confined  and  fever  at  the  same  time,  and  one  fever  alone. 
They  are  most  difficult  to  manage  when  ill,  and  do  not 
give  themselves  a  fair  chance  of  recovery. 

4  There  have  been  two  fights  here  lately — some  were 


A  Fight  261 

badly  hurt.  The  last  was  unpleasantly  near  the  mission 
house,  as  one  party  were  in  the  bush  close  to  our  fence. 
I  was  on  the  verandah,  and  some  cocoanut  shells  and 
one  or  two  sticks  came  over  close  to  me,  so  I  retired. 
Tamate  went  out  and  sent  off  one  party  (I  should  think 
there  were  200)  to  their  own  village,  and  then  Tamate 
went  into  the  bushes  and  routed  out  the  other  side ;  they 
were  angry  at  the  interruption,  but  eventually  cleared 
off.  They  will,  I  expect,  fight  it  out  some  time,  and  go 
further  away  to  do  it.  It  is  a  quarrel  between  the  young 
men  of  the  different  dubus,  and  formerly  would  have  led 
to  a  desperate  fight  between  the  tribes,  but  now  we  are 
here  the  chiefs  will  not  join  in,  and  they  try  to  stop 
the  fight.  The  young  men  have  been  shut  up  in  the 
dubus  for  eighteen  months,  only  coming  out  on  very 
rare  occasions,  and  at  night  to  get  a  little  fresh  air  on 
the  beach.  They  are  most  of  them  fine  strong  fellows, 
and  anxious  to  try  their  strength  on  each  side.  They 
have  just  come  out  this  month,  and  freedom  makes  them 
rather  wild.  I  think  I  never  felt  myself  amongst  savages 
as  I  have  done  this  last  week,  the  excitement  has  been 
so  great.  The  feast  to  "  Semese  "  has  been  held.  It  is 
only  held,  I  believe,  at  intervals  of  many  years,  and  now 
we  are  here  and  getting  an  influence  over  the  people, 
it  will  most  likely  never  be  held  again  in  all  its  wild 
savagery.  I  am  glad  to  have  seen  it,  for  from  description 
one  could  not  possibly  imagine  it. 

'Yesterday  we  went  inland.  Tamate  thought  he 
would  like  me  to  see  Moveave  in  its  wild  state.  It  is  tire- 
some to  get  there  in  a  boat — the  canoes  go  a  short  cut 
through  some  winding  narrow  creeks;  we  went  in  the 
boat  up  some  splendid  streams  of  water,  tributaries  of 
the  large  river.  It  was  very  pretty  indeed ;  the  banks 
were  covered  with  nipa,  sago,  and  cocoanut  palms,  and 


262  Life  at  Toaripi 

the  mangrove  swamps  look  pretty,  though  they  are  so 
deadly.  We  disturbed  two  crocodiles  on  the  way,  one 
twenty  feet  long1  at  least,  but  they  slid  so  quickly  into 
the  water  I  could  not  get  a  real  good  look.  They  are 
wonderfully  quick  in  their  movements,  and  being  the 
exact  colour  of  the  muddy  bank  one  can't  get  a  good 
look  at  them. 

'  At  the  first  little  village,  I  was  so  hot  and  tired,  we 
had  a  halt.  Huari  carried  my  folding-chair,  and  I  sat 
down  comfortably,  as  I  thought,  to  rest,  while  the  chief 
sent  a  boy  up  a  tall  tree  for  fresh  nuts.  The  milk  was 
delicious,  but  the  rest  was  not ;  the  chair  was  low,  and 
the  natives  crowded  round  in  a  circle,  men,  women,  and 
children,  so  that  I  could  not  feel  a  breath  of  air.  I  gave 
up  the  notion  of  having  anything  to  eat  there,  and  was 
glad  to  move  on  soon. 

*  It  was  very  hot  in  the  bush,  and  I  was  glad  to  reach 
Moveave  and  know  I  could  rest  and  eat.     It  is  very  much 
larger  than  I  expected,  and  the  houses  are  built  on  a  nice 
open  plain,  which  felt  airy  after  the  close  bush.      The 
first  sight  was  a  sad  one.     An  old  chief  died  a  fortnight 
ago,  and  we  had  to  halt  at  his  place ;  in  front  of  the 
house  was  the  grave  in  an  enclosure,  nine  feet  square, 
and  inside  this  the  whole  family — widow,  children,  and 
grandchildren — are  living,  sleeping,  cooking,  and  eating. 
The  widow  does  not  come  out  at  all  for  three  months, 
but  she  came  to  me,  naked  and  daubed  with  clay — so 
wretched,  and  so  dirty,  for  they  do  not  bathe  during 
the  first  mourning.     We  left  them  and  went  on  into  the 
village. 

*  There  were  quite  a  large  number  of  dubus,  some  of 
them  much  higher  from  the  ground  than  any  Tamate 
had  seen  before.     I  longed  to  get  up,  but  did  not  think 
it  at  all  possible,     The  steps  are  just  tree-stems  tied 


A  CRITICAL  MOMENT 


A  Critical  Moment  263 

across,  two  feet  apart  (sometimes  more),  to  two  long 
slender  poles,  and  they  are  not  as  a  rule  very  straight 
across.  I  was  terribly  tired,  and  hot,  hungry,  and  thirsty. 
There  were  a  great  many  strangers  in  the  village,  as 
a  great  feast  was  in  progress.  The  houses  were  half 
hidden  by  immense  quantities  of  food ;  splendid  bunches 
of  bananas  hung  round  the  platforms,  and  piled  high  on 
the  platform  were  taro,  sweet  potatoes,  yams,  cocoanuts 
in  all  stages  of  growth,  and  bundles  of  sago.  A  great 
amount  of  cooking  was  going  on  in  front  of  the  houses, 
and  there  did  not  seem  one  place  to  rest  and  cool  off. 
On  a  dubu  we  saw  some  of  our  people  who  had  come 
by  canoe. 

'Tamate,  to  please  them,  walked  with  me  round  the 
village ;  such  a  scene  of  noise  and  excitement  it  is  im- 
possible to  describe.  They  crowded  round  me  until 
I  felt  stifled.  Out  again  in  the  centre,  which  is  rather 
open,  we  were  near  a  large  new  dubu,  twenty-two  or 
more  feet  from  the  ground,  and  my  chair  was  placed 
underneath  for  shade  and  coolness ;  but  it  was  no  use, 
they  would  stand  round  me  and  keep  away  the  air.  Ka 
and  Naimi  and  some  of  the  men  set  to  work  and  put 
more  strands  across  the  ladder,  and  I  determined  to 
venture.  I  shall  never  forget  the  ascent  as  long  as  I 
live  ;  but  at  last  I  was  safely  landed,  and  it  was  delight- 
fully cool  and  shady — so  far  above  them  all.  I  unpacked 
the  food,  and  we  had  cocoanuts  to  drink. 

*  The  getting  down  was  dreadful ;  and  there  was  a 
sudden  misunderstanding  between  some  of  our  teachers 
and  the  natives.  In  a  moment  every  one  seemed  armed — 
bows,  arrows,  and  those  dreadful  clubs.  Fortunately 
I  did  not  see  the  quarrel,  and  when  the  natives  suddenly 
appeared  armed  and  around  us,  I  thought  it  was  part  of 
the  show  for  our  entertainment,  and  I  had  only  just  time 


264  Life  at  Toaripi 

to  realize  danger  before  it  was  over.  We  had  a  narrow 
escape,  and  five  minutes  might  have  seen  the  end  of  us 
all,  and  no  one  left  to  tell  the  tale.  Tamate  seems  equal 
to  any  emergency,  however,  and  everything  was  made 
right.  It  was  want  of  tact,  and  nervousness,  on  the  part 
of  one  of  the  new  teachers  which  caused  it  all.' 

We  give  a  few  hitherto  unpublished  letters  of  Tamate 's 
and  Mrs.  Chalmers's  which  illustrate  the  life  he  lived,  the 
kind  of  work  he  tried  to  do,  and  the  experiences  through 
which  he  passed  at  Toaripi  from  1888  to  1895.  The 
first  is  a  characteristic  letter  of  the  kind  Tamate  some- 
times wrote  to  young  people,  and  was,  for  him,  an 
unusually  long  letter. 

MOTUMOTU,  December  10,  1888. 

'  My  dear  young  friends :  It  is  a  very  long  time  since 
I  wrote  to  my  old  Sunday  school,  the  school  of  my 
youth.  It  is  not  an  easy  matter  to  get  sufficient  time 
together  so  as  to  be  able  to  write  a  letter  worth  the 
postage.  How  very  different  our  letters  are  to  those  the 
natives  send.  Yesterday  I  sent  up  the  river  for  sago, 
and  in  the  afternoon  the  double  canoe  returned  with 
forty-five  bundles  only.  They  brought  me  a  native 
letter  which  I  must  try  and  enclose  for  you  to  see.  It 
reads  as  follows :  "  To  Tamate.  Let  Tamate  know  that 
we  are  going  to  make  sago,  and  in  three  sleeps  it  will  be 
ready,  on  the  fourth  let  him  send  for  it."  I  have  had 
invitations  to  feasts  and  dances  with  knotted  string.  If 
the  string  spoke  it  would  say :  "  Know,  Tamate,  that  in 
fourteen  sleeps  (number  of  knots)  you  are  to  come  ;  the 
pigs  will  be  ready  and  there  will  be  food  in  abundance ; 
the  dancing  will  begin  before  sunset  and  continue  until 
long  after  sunrise."  Some  years  ago,  before  the  Port 
Moresby  natives  understood  our  divisions  of  time,  and 
when  they  only  knew  the  Sabbath  by  the  informing  bell 


A  Case  of  Discipline  265 

on  the  Saturday  night,  I  sent  a  native  with  one  of  the 
large  trading  canoes  to  the  west  and  told  him  to  hold 
services  and  teach  the  people  of  the  place  of  Jesus  Who 
came  to  reveal  our  Father's  love.  Some  weeks  after  I 
went  down  in  the  boat,  and  on  entering  the  river  in  the 
dark  a  small  canoe  met  us,  and  in  it  the  Christian  native 
I  sent.  He  reported  all  well  and  the  people  interested. 
I  asked  him  what  day  it  was,  and  he  answered  correctly. 
I  asked  him  when  the  Sabati  would  be,  and  he  soon 
answered.  I  was  astonished,  as  many  of  our  teachers  get 
wrong  in  the  day.  I  have  gone  to  places  on  the 
Saturday  or  Monday  and  found  them  holding  services, 
and  on  asking  what  day  it  was  was  told  it  was  Sabati. 
From  fever  I  have  known  them  two  days  wrong.  I 
asked  him,  How  do  you  know  the  time  so  well  ?  and  he 
answered,  "  Feel  that."  I  felt  a  piece  of  string  he  had 
attached  to  a  small  bag  similar  to  those  carried  by  all 
natives,  and  found  it  knotted.  Here  and  there  it  had 
large  knots  and  between  small  ones.  The  latter  stood 
for  days  of  the  week  and  the  former  for  Sabbaths. 
Every  morning  he  made  a  knot,  and  so  on  the  seventh 
doubled  it,  and  in  that  way  he  kept  time  correctly  for 
several  months. 

'  The  people  here  are  a  fine  wild  independent  lot. 
Some  time  ago  at  one  of  our  services  during  the  closing 
prayer  a  lad  was  noisy,  at  the  close  I  detained  him  to 
talk  to,  and  told  the  others  to  leave.  They  left  very 
slowly,  only  a  few  of  the  first  running  on  to  the  village. 
I  wanted  to  speak  to  him  alone,  and  so  insisted  on  the 
others  leaving.  I  would  not  let  the  boy  go.  On  looking 
out  I  saw  a  crowd  gathering  and  armed  with  clubs  and 
sticks,  and  knew  well  what  it  meant ;  they  were  coming 
to  attack  us  and  take  away  the  boy.  I  determined  they 
should  do  neither,  so  I  made  for  the  door.  I  was  just  in 


266  Life  at  Toaripi 

time  to  meet  the  leader  entering  carrying  his  club  ready ; 
by  one  hand  I  seized  him  and  with  the  other  wrenched 
the  club  from  him.  He  turned  and  in  one  spring  cleared 
steps  and  everything.  I  was  now  armed  and  not  feeling 
particularly  amiable,  and  I  have  no  doubt  looking  any- 
thing but  it ;  and  you  should  have  seen  that  crowd  go — • 
they  scattered  and  ran  helter-skelter  into  the  bush.  In 
the  confusion  my  boy  thought  he  would  escape,  but  oh 
dear  no !  I  got  him,  cleared  the  house  and  talked  to  him. 
Afterwards  I  went  through  the  village  with  my  club,  and 
I  have  it  now. 

'We  are  often  getting  messages  from  neighbouring 
peoples  that  we  are  to  be  murdered,  and  I  send  them 
back  word  or  take  it :  "  It  is  very  bad  to  say  bad  things, 
and  they  must  never  again  say  it ;  as  for  doing  it,  they  are 
not  children  and  cannot."  I  am  leaving  this  week  to 
bring  two  tribes  together  who  have  been  killing  one 
another  for  some  time.  Both  are  now  anxious  for  peace 
and  friendship.  Some  of  their  murders  are  fearfully 
cruel ;  and  knowing  those  who  commit  them,  I  often 
wonder  how  they  can  commit  them.  Some  murders 
are  committed  by  small,  insignificant,  sneaking  fellows 
for  whom  you  would  have  the  greatest  contempt,  and 
think  them  not  worthy  a  thought.  They  are  the  very 
fellows  to  be  careful  of  and  just  keep  your  eyes  and  ears 
about  you,  or  rather  alive,  without  them  knowing  it. 

'  We  have  begun  three  new  stations,  one  is  at  Vailala 
on  the  "  Annie."  It  is  a  fearful  place  for  crocodiles,  and 
often  a  native  is  taken.  When  we  were  anchoring  there 
was  a  shout,  and  away  went  all  the  canoes ;  but  no  use,  a 
fine  young  woman  had  been  taken,  and  was  never  again 
seen.  In  the  afternoon  it  was  very  sad  to  stand  near  the 
house,  and  hear  her  poor  mother  with  all  her  relatives 
and  girls  of  her  own  age  wailing.  She  had  gone  with  a 


Seized  by  a  Crocodile  267 

dish  to  the  river  near  the  house  to  draw  water,  and  on 
bending  down  was  seized  and  taken  :  there  was  only  one 
loud  scream,  and  nothing  more — gone,  gone  for  ever.  A 
few  days  after  a  man  was  taken,  and  so  on.  Here  we 
have  crocodiles,  but  they  are  not  so  vicious.  At  Lese, 
near  here,  a  few  days  ago,  a  young  woman  who  was 
going  to  be  married  was  seized :  she  screamed,  a  number 
of  men  near  plunged  into  the  water  and  killed  the 
crocodile.  The  girl  was  too  terribly  lacerated ;  she  died 
a  few  minutes  after  bringing  her  to  the  village. 

'  I  suppose  all  of  you  belong  to  the  "  Band  of  Hope  "  ? 
If  you  don't  you  ought  to.  Fancy  being  able  to  say 
when  old,  "I  do  not  know  the  taste  of  spirits."  Our 
natives  can  say  that,  and  our  new  and  excellent  Governor 
means  they  shall  continue  to  do  so.  With  us  pray  they 
may  be  kept  from  the  fiend  destroyer. 

'  Their  great  luxury  is  the  areca  nut  and  betel 
pepper,  and  that  they  are  ever  chewing  with  lime. 
They  constantly  tell  us  it  is  a  splendid  specific  for 
fever.  When  I  first  came  to  New  Guinea  I  tried  it  and 
rather  liked  it ;  but  one  day  I  overdid  it.  I  chewed 
nearly  all  day  long — a  regular  spree.  Unfortunately  it 
was  a  calm,  I  was  in  a  small  vessel,  and  there  was  nothing 
else  to  do,  and  we  lay,  "like  a  painted  ship  upon  a  painted 
ocean."  Eh,  I  remember  it  well,  a  brawling  sun  over- 
head, little  or  no  shade,  and  chewing.  Night  came  on, 
and  for  the  first  time  in  many  years,  perhaps  the  first  in 
my  life,  I  had  a  racking  headache.  I  slept,  and  the  next 
morning  felt  queer,  and  then  and  there  bade  farewell  to 
the  betel.  I  was  cured.  Nearly  all  our  teachers  like  it. 
Had  I  had  the  headache  first  I  should  never  have  chewed 
betel. 

'  We  have  got  eight  students  here  being  taught,  so  that 
in  a  few  years  they  may  go  to  their  countrymen  and 


268  Life  at  Toaripi 

tell  them  "  God  is  love."  We  have  also  a  few  boys — 
these  are  taught  English.  How  you  would  laugh  to 
hear  their  first  attempts.  Never  mind,  they  are  getting 
on  well,  and  perhaps  some  day  may  become  teachers. 
They  all  dearly  love  stories,  and  to  them  there  is  no 
wearying  when  Bible  stories  are  told.  I  have  sent  for 
my  magic-lantern  so  that  they  may  have  an  opportunity 
of  seeing  some  pictures.  The  excitement  will  be  great, 
and  I  only  hope  they  will  not  rush  the  table.  At  Port 
Moresby  they  dearly  love  comic  slides,  and  they  also 
enjoy  seeing  David  standing  on  Goliath  and  cutting  off 
his  head.  Here  the  whole  will  be  new,  and  I  have  no 
doubt  will  be  much  appreciated. 

*  We  have  two  village  schools,  one  for  the  east,  and 
one  for  the  west.  Some  of  the  boys  are  getting  on,  but 
unless  there  is  plenty  of  fun  only  a  few  attend.  I  fear 
no  school  inspector  would  pass  us,  we  are  such  a  rowdy 
lot.  They,  the  children,  dearly  love  to  get  me  for  an 
hour  with  them,  for  then  we  sing,  we  march,  we  learn 
tables  and  geography,  marching.  You  should  hear  them 
sing ;  I  have  never  heard  anything  like  it.  I  wonder  if 
they  will  ever  learn  to  sing. 

1  They  are  very  irregular  in  their  attendance  and  often 
play  truant.  I  did  that  once,  only  once ;  it  was  quite 
enough,  it  is  a  memory.  There  were  two  of  us :  we  heard 
there  was  to  be  blasting  on  or  near  to  Mr.  Blair's  farm, 
and  the  temptation  was  strong,  so  we  had  breakfast, 
pretended  to  go  to  school,  crossed  the  river  at  Low 
Ballantyre  into  the  woods  and  away  along  to  the  scene 
of  the  blasting.  It  was  not  half  a  day,  there  were  ghosts 
following  us  all  day  long,  and  we  had  to  keep  in  hiding 
much  of  our  time.  There  was  some  fine  blasting,  but  it 
did  not  compensate  for  the  risk  of  exposure.  Never  mind 
how  it  was  settled.  I  have  already  said  it  is  a  memory. 


A  Sunday  at  Toaripi  269 

On  Rarotonga  I  have  often  got  on  my  horse  and  run 
the  truants  in. 

'  I  must  be  closing,  or  you  will  all  be  saying,  Hold,  yarn 
enough !  Some  day  we  may  meet,  and  then  I  must  yarn 
on.  I  have  men  sawing,  some  boat- cleaning,  others  fence- 
repairing,  so  must  stop.  Hallo,  I  forgot  the  real  reason 
of  my  writing.  Thank  you  all  ever  so  much  for  your 
kind  box  of  presents  for  the  natives.  Why,  one  would 
imagine  you  had  been  here,  and  you  knew  what  was 
wanted.  It  was  right  good  in  you  all  to  so  remember 
us;  and  how  jolly  the  natives  will  feel  wearing  and  using 
the  things.  I  am  going  to  close,  and  not  a  bit  of  a 
sermon,  and  you  all  shout  hurrah.  Hurrah !  good-bye. 
God  bless  you. 

4  Your  old  friend 

TAMATE.' 

'July  15,  1890. 

'We  had  the  ordinance  service  on  Sunday,  and  a  good 
congregation  of  natives  to  witness  it,  they  were  very 
attentive  and  interested,  and  Tamate  tried  to  explain  to 
them.  We  have  no  church  members  here  yet,  but  with 
teachers  from  other  stations,  ourselves,  new  teachers, 
Maimi,  Ikupu  and  one  of  the  "  Harrier  "  crew,  some  four 
natives  from  Pari,  we  made  a  goodly  number.  It  was 
a  solemn  and  strange  service  in  this  wild  place.  I  could 
not  help  contrasting  this  service  with  the  one  at  home, 
here  the  bright  sun  outside,  and  on  one  side  the  dazzling 
sea  breaking  in  heavy  waves  up  to  the  very  steps  of  the 
church,  on  the  other,  a  portion  of  sandy  beach,  some 
native  houses,  looking  like  haystacks  on  high  posts, 
cocoanuts,  palms,  and  little  peeps  in  between,  and  under- 
neath the  houses,  of  the  wide  river  beyond,  plenty  of 
dogs  and  pigs  running  about.  Inside,  my  table  covered 


270  Life  at  Toaripi 

with  a  white  cloth  ;  and  on  it  a  jug-  of  cocoanut  milk,  and 
two  glasses,  and  two  plates  of  bread.  Tamate  at  the 
table,  a  teacher  on  either  hand.  I  sat  at  the  right  hand, 
and  on  the  floor  at  my  side  the  native  members,  on  the 
left  hand  the  teachers  and  wives,  in  front  a  gathering  of 
orderly,  interested-looking  natives,  many  gorgeously 
painted  and  befeathered,  and  dark  faces  peering  in  at 
the  six  doors.  Can  you  picture  it  at  all  ?  The  church 
is  built  by  the  natives,  walls  of  nipa  palm  spines,  and 
thatched  roof  of  palm  leaves,  floor  of  bark — two  door- 
ways on  each  side,  and  one  at  each  end,  and  plenty  of 
square  openings  for  windows.  We  have  no  church 
members  here  yet,  but  we  think  of  the  Moffats  and  feel 
encouraged,  they  were  fifteen  years  working  at  one 
station,  and  not  one  member,  and  yet  she  asked  a  friend 
to  send  her  an  ordinary  service,  and  directly  after  it 
arrived,  they  needed  it.' 

'  MOTUMOTU,  April  26,  1890. 

'My  dear  Pastor:  I  returned  from  the  Fly  River  a 
few  weeks  ago,  and  since  then  have  been  fairly  busy  with 
classes,  writing,  and  superintending  house-building.  I 
was  absent  from  here  nine  weeks  and  on  my  return 
found  Tamate  Vaine  tolerably  well,  although  during  my 
absence  she  had  two  bad  attacks  of  fever.  When  I  left 
Mr.  Savage  was  here,  but  he  had  gone  some  weeks 
before  my  return.  Tamate  Vaine  carried  on  the  work 
splendidly  and  got  on  well  with  all  parties,  the  people 
causing  her  no  trouble.  She  kept  the  teachers  and 
students  well  up  to  the  mark.  My  visit  to  the  west  was 
a  long  one  and  we  went  over  much  ground,  some  old, 
more  new.  The  Governor  was  exceedingly  kind  and 
gave  me  every  opportunity  of  seeing  the  mission  stations 
and  other  places  suitable  for  mission  stations.  I  am 


Visit  to  the  Fly  River  271 

sorry  to  have  to  report  that  our  work  near  the  Fly 
River  is  nil.  The  few  teachers  seem  quite  disheartened 
and  simply  vegetate,  their  houses  are  the  most  miserable 
of  teachers'  houses.  I  am  sorry  for  them,  as  I  fancy 
more  could  have  been  done  with  them.  I  think  I  told 
you  of  the  request  from  Blomfield  Street  to  go  to  Torres 
Straits  and  take  up  the  Fly  Mission.  We  go  and  make 
Dauan  our  head  quarters,  working  the  coast  and  river 
with  a  steam  launch.  We  both  expect  to  leave  here  in 
July  for  the  Colonies  and  South  Seas.  Our  hope  is  to 
get  a  goodly  number  of  teachers  from  Samoa  and 
Rarotonga. 

'The  country  visited  is  uninteresting,  but  it  is  new. 
It  is  a  terribly  wet  country,  with  swamps  everywhere, 
and  no  ground  could  I  see  for  which  I  would  give  a  cent 
an  acre.  The  population  is  sparse  and  I  should  think 
very  suspicious.  On  the  island  of  Kiwai  there  is  a 
tolerably  large  population,  but  all  the  other  islands  in 
the  mouth  of  the  Fly  are  uninhabited.  About  sixty 
miles  up  is  the  island  of  Domoro  with  a  small  population, 
and  there  I  hope  soon  to  have  a  station.  It  will  be 
central  for  working  both  banks  of  the  river.  We  know 
nothing  of  what  is  inside  the  river  scrub,  the  population 
may  be  large  but  I  fancy  it  is  small.  The  few  people  I 
saw  were  frightened  as  March  hares.  At  Kiwai  they 
speak  "  pidgeon  "  English,  and  all  day  long  you  hear 
"  No  savee,"  "  My  word,  no  gammon,"  and  interlarded 
profusely  with  rich  adjectives  which  many  whites  think 
very  effective  and  which  the  natives  soon  get  a  hold  of. 
A  native  giving  me  a  present  in  the  heartiest  and  most 
good-humoured  way,  swore  profusely  without  knowing 
what  he  did.  Would  you  believe  it,  there  are  white 
men  who  deliberately  teach  the  natives  to  curse  and 
swear  and  to  use  the  filthiest  language.  The  "mean 


272  Life  at  Toaripi 

white "  is  a  low  man ;  our  "  white  man "  is  a  good 
fellow. 

'Our  visit  to  Saibai  was  most  interesting.  Many 
years  ago  I  visited  the  island  and  they  were  then  a  wild 
uncouth  lot,  who  several  times  threatened  the  teacher 
and  his  wife.  They  were  the  wildest  skull-hunters  on 
the  whole  coast  and  had  heaps  of  skulls  under  the  shade 
of  their  sacred  trees.  That  is  all  changed,  they  are  now 
a  quiet,  law-abiding  people,  and  many  of  them  I  believe 
earnest  Christian  men  and  women.  The  king  is  a  little 
man,  squat,  active,  and  very  intelligent,  and  a  great  man 
in  the  church.  Here  is  a  good  one — a  hint — for  the 
elders.  The  king  is  a  deacon  and  carries  a  wand,  a 
switch,  and  his  quick-seeing  eyes  sweep  over  the 
assembly  when  in  church,  and  any  poor  unfortunate 
whose  head  should  hang,  or  nod,  or  whose  eyes  are 
closed  except  at  prayer-time,  is  soon  discovered  and 
away  goes  the  king,  sets  the  head  right,  or  touches  the 
culprit  with  the  wand  and  informs  him  or  her,  no 
sleeping  in  church.  With  what  gusto  he  sings!  He 
reminds  me  of  your  Mrs.  McKay  in  the  Orkneys,  a 
lady  I  heard  you  speak  of  thirty  years  ago,  and  of  how 
sorry  you  were  when  the  regular  precentor  was  able  to 
take  his  duties.  Well  our  Saibai  king  is  the  same,  'tis 
a  pity  when  the  regular  precentor  is  in  his  place.  They 
sing  all  and  well.  God's  Gospel  of  love  to  man  is  all 
powerful ;  only  that  blessed  Gospel  could  have  wrought 
so  great  a  change. 

'  Well,  we  met  the  Tugeri  and  became  right  friendly. 
They  are  Dutch  men.  They  are  certainly  a  fine  lot,  and 
if  only  won  to  Christ  will  make  splendid  pioneers.  We 
hoped  to  meet  them  in  British  territory,  and  so  would 
have  taught  them  not  to  skull-hunt  any  more.  I  believe 
His  Excellency  would  have  insisted  on  their  returning 


Mrs.  Chalmers  and  the  Savages        273 

home.  We  ascended  one  new  river  through  swampy 
country.  In  some  places  we  had  a  constant  supply  of 
wild  geese,  so  much  so  that  I  tired  of  goose.  We  had  a 
small  explosion  in  the  steam  launch  one  day  and  some  of 
us  went  at  the  quick  over  the  stern,  preferring  cool 
water  to  boiling.' 

Here  is  Mrs.  Chalmers's  view  of  the  same  period  from 
the  very  different  standpoint  of  the  one  left  at  home  to 
carry  on  the  routine  work,  while  the  equally  necessary 
duty  of  exploring  new  districts  and  visiting  lonely  native 
teachers  was  being  discharged  by  her  adventurous 
husband. 

•MOTUMOTU,  Aprils,  1890. 

'You  cannot  think  how  I  welcomed  Tamate  home 
after  nine  weeks'  absence,  five  of  which  I  spent  alone 
here.  I  had  one  or  two  amusing  adventures  with  the 
natives.  On  the  whole  I  managed  very  well,  and  Tamate 
is  delighted  because  I  have  been  able  to  carry  on  all  the 
work,  college,  schools,  and  buildings,  etc.  The  anxiety 
and  worry  has  been  so  much,  that  now  the  strain  is  over, 
Tin  done,  and  submit  to  be  coddled  and  nursed  up. 
Being  independent  is  all  very  well  sometimes,  but  it's 
nice  to  be  taken  care  of  again.  I  get  on  well  with  these 
savages,  and  Tamate  is  much  amused  at  the  way  I  order 
these  big  wild  men  about,  and  even  take  their  clubs 
away,  if  they  bring  them  to  the  house.  The  men  them- 
selves laugh,  and  pat  me  on  the  shoulder,  but  they  all 
do  as  I  tell  them.  They  will  take  more  from  me  than 
they  would  from  a  man,  and  they  see  I  am  not  in  the 
least  afraid  of  them,  or  their  sorcerers  either.' 

A  lady  friend  who  visited  Mrs.  Chalmers  two  or  three 
years  after  the  home  at  Toaripi  was  set  up  has  left  an 

S 


274  Life  at  Toaripi 

account  full  of  interest  of  her  visit.  With  some  extracts 
from  her  account  we  close  this  period  of  Tamate's  life l. 

*  Let  me  tell  you  what  a  brave  woman  Mrs.  Chalmers 
is,  and  what  a  missionary's  wife  in  New  Guinea  has  to 
endure.  She  has  often  been  left  entirely  alone  with  these 
savages  for  weeks  at  a  time,  while  her  husband  has  been 
on  duty  elsewhere,  settling  native  teachers  in  new  stations 
or  exploring  new  country.  To  realize  what  this  means 
you  must  remember  that,  as  I  said  before,  there  are  no 
roads  in  New  Guinea,  and  no  possibility  of  communica- 
tion, however  great  the  emergency,  with  any  civilized 
being  nearer  than  Port  Moresby,  150  miles  away. 
During  one  of  Tamate's  absences  his  wife  lay  for  weeks 
desperately  ill  of  fever,  alone,  entirely  at  the  mercy  of 
the  natives,  and  without  attendance  except  for  any  care 
the  teachers'  wives  could  give  her.  She  lay  thus  in 
constant  dread  that  she  might  die  before  Mr.  Chalmers 
got  back,  or,  worse  still,  sink  into  a  state  of  coma  and 
be  buried  alive.  By  the  good  providence  of  God,  her 
husband  returned  just  in  time  to  draw  her  away  by 
tender  care  and  wise  nursing  from  the  gates  of  death  she 
had  so  nearly  passed  through. 

'All  the  many  dangers  of  various  kinds  that  have 
threatened  her  even  she  herself  could  not  tell  you,  but 
I  think  one  story  of  her  courage  will  not  be  inappro- 
priate here.  One  night,  when  she  was  quite  alone  in 
the  mission  house,  she  was  awakened  by  a  slight  noise 
on  the  verandah.  She  got  up  and  went  out  to  see  what 
it  was,  and  discovered  that  the  house  was  surrounded  by 
the  natives,  chiefly  the  young  warriors,  all  fully  armed, 
crouching  in  the  darkness  under  the  verandah.  Instead 
of  being  overcome  with  fear  she  went  down  amongst 

1  These  extracts  are  from  a  paper  by  Frances  Baildon,  entitled 
'A  Lady's  Visit  to  New  Guinea.' 


A  New  Guinea  Visit  275 

them,  asked  them  how  they  dared  to  come  there  at 
that  hour  of  night,  and  gave  them  a  good  sound  scolding 
for  disturbing  her.  Whether  they  were  daunted  by  her 
coolness,  or  what  it  was  that  deterred  them  from  attack- 
ing her,  no  one  will  ever  know,  but  an  old  chief  came 
up  to  her  and  patting  her  on  the  shoulder  told  her  to 
have  no  fear,  and  he  would  make  these  men  go  away 
and  she  was  to  go  back  to  the  house  and  rest.  True 
to  his  word,  she  heard  him,  during  the  remainder  of  a 
sleepless  night,  patrolling  the  verandah,  keeping  watch 
over  her.  And  so  the  adventure  ended,  but  there  is 
little  doubt  they  came  to  kill  her,  and  were  only  pre- 
vented by  her  courage  and  self-possession. 

'The  day  after  our  arrival  we  were  taken  through 
the  native  villages,  and  Mr.  Chalmers  made  me  go  up 
into  two  of  the  houses,  which  were  as  usual  built  on 
piles  ten  to  twelve  feet  above  the  ground.  These  were 
reached  by  means  of  a  very  rudimentary  ladder  made  of 
branches  of  trees,  varying  from  one  to  two  feet  apart. 
I  had  to  scramble  up  these  unaided  as  best  I  could,  it 
being  against  New  Guinea  etiquette  for  Mr.  Chalmers  to 
accompany  me.  When  I  reached  the  platform  I  was 
greeted  in  friendly  fashion  by  the  women  and  children, 
and,  not  being  able  to  communicate  in  language,  we 
were  very  liberal  with  our  smiles  and  handshakes.  Then 
they  showed  me  their  houses,  which  consist  of  a  platform 
with  the  roof  hanging  over  it  like  a  porch,  and  where 
they  usually  sit,  and  then  a  long  darkish  room  and  a 
further  one  darker  still.  During  our  walk  afterwards  we 
met  an  extraordinary  spectre-like  figure  of  a  whitish  ash 
colour.  This  was  a  widow  in  deep  mourning,  and  whose 
only  covering  consisted  of  the  clay  she  had  smeared 
over  her  body. 

*  Next  morning  we  started  on  a  canoe  voyage  up  the 
S3 


276  Life  at  Toaripi 

Williams  River  to  a  place  called  Moveave,  where  the 
people  are  still  so  ferocious  and  so  entirely  in  their 
savage  condition  that  the  only  teacher  ever  placed  there 
was  murdered,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers  recently  had 
a  very  narrow  escape  of  their  lives. 

'Our  canoe  voyage  was  very  interesting.  We  soon 
got  out  of  the  main  river  and  turned  into  a  creek,  and 
the  scenery  became  like  fairyland,  the  canoe  being 
paddled  slowly  along  between  banks  covered  with  the 
loveliest  trailing  ferns,  sago,  nipa  and  cocoanut  palms, 
with  their  great  feathery  leaves  bending  down  and 
meeting  across  the  water.  So  low  did  these  fall  that 
we  had  often  to  lie  almost  flat  in  the  canoe  to  avoid 
contact  with  the  prickly  leaf-stems  of  the  sago  palm. 

'  After  two  or  three  hours'  voyage,  sometimes. crossing 
broader  streams  and  then  taking  short  cuts  up  narrow 
creeks,  we  began  to  see  people  on  the  banks  and  various 
signs  of  a  native  village  at  hand.  When  we  landed  a 
little  later  at  the  end  of  one  of  these  creeks,  the  situation 
looked  a  little  alarming.  There  were  no  women  to 
be  seen  amongst  the  savages  who  came  to  meet  us,  which 
was  a  very  bad  sign,  and  all  the  men  were  fully  armed 
with  their  clubs  and  bows  and  arrows,  and  appeared 
sullen  and  distrustful.  We  all  had  to  be  very  careful  in 
our  behaviour,  as  the  least  misunderstanding  would  have 
cost  us  our  lives.  Our  stay  was  limited  by  the  fact  that 
the  creek  on  which  Moveave  was  situated  was  a  tidal 
one,  and,  as  the  tide  had  already  turned,  too  long  a 
delay  might  have  involved  a  wait  of  many  hours,  which 
would  have  been  very  dangerous  in  the  present  temper 
of  the  people.  Perhaps  the  fact  of  our  party  having  a 
white  woman  with  them  helped  to  keep  the  peace,  and 
as  I  was  only  the  third  they  had  ever  seen  they  were 
greatly  interested  in  me.  Here  the  houses  were  built 


A  Moment  of  Danger  277 

even  higher  from  the  ground  than  any  we  had  seen 
before,  and  the  people  were  extremely  terrible-looking 
and  very  fierce.  To  add  to  their  already  dreadful 
appearance  they  chew  betel-nut,  which  leaves  their  teeth 
black  and  their  gums  blood-red. 

*  In  spite  of  this  not  encouraging  reception  we  made  a 
tour  through  the  village,  and  I  walked  along  with  Mr. 
Chalmers,  who  remonstrated  with  the  natives  for  meeting 
us  armed  to  the  teeth.  For  the  first  time  I  saw  he  was 
uneasy,  and  consequently  I  felt  rather  alarmed,  but  was 
able  not  to  appear  so.  By  this  time  we  had  crowds  round 
us,  and  my  brother  and  one  of  the  other  missionaries 
came  up  and  photographed  us  in  groups.  The  three 
men  nearest  me  were  simply  hideous,  though,  according 
to  their  ideas  of  beauty,  they  were  most  elaborately  got 
up,  with  endless  ornaments,  painted  faces,  and  frizzed-out 
hair.  After  this  we  made  for  the  canoe,  accompanied  by 
a  large  escort,  which  considerably  delayed  our  progress. 
At  last  we  embarked,  but  were  at  once  surrounded  by 
the  natives,  still  apparently  displeased  and  jabbering 
away  in  a  language  I  could  not  of  course  understand.  I 
confess  then  I  thought  we  were  doomed,  and  that  I 
should  never  see  home  or  friends  again.  There  was  no 
use  making  a  fuss,  however,  so  I  sat  perfectly  still,  trying 
to  judge  from  their  faces  and  gestures  what  our  fate  was 
to  be.  But  after  much  jabbering  and  gesticulation,  and 
some  presents  of  tobacco,  we  pushed  off,  followed  how- 
ever on  both  banks  by  these  unpleasantly  well-armed 
savages  until  we  got  into  the  main  river,  where  they  left 
us ;  and  I  think,  though  nothing  was  said,  we  were  all 
deeply  thankful  to  God  for  preserving  us  alive. 

'  We  had  a  safe  voyage  back  to  Motumotu,  where  we 
remained  over  a  Sunday  and  witnessed  some  interesting 
services  with  the  natives,  especially  a  communion  service. 


278  Life  at  Toaripi 

The  communicants  were  principally  teachers  and  students 
and  their  wives,  as  Mr.  Chalmers  is  very  careful  not  to 
admit  any  to  the  sacrament  who  do  not  quite  understand 
the  meaning-  of  it.' 


CHAPTER    XVIII 

THE  WRECK  OF  THE  '  HARRIER ' 

IN  the  year  1891,  after  spending  a  few  days  at  Port 
Moresby  on  returning  from  a  visit  to  Kerepunu  on 
June  30,  Tamate  and  Mrs.  Chalmers,  and  all  the  Raro- 
tongan  teachers  and  their  wives  sailed  in  the  '  Harrier ' 1 
from  Port  Moresby  to  Motumotu,  where  they  arrived  on 
July  4.  They  could  not  land  that  night,  and  had  to  toss 
the  long  night  through  in  a  heavy  gulf-swell.  Here  is 
Mrs.  Chalmers's  account  of  that  night : — 

'  What  a  terrible  night  we  had  for  discomfort,  to  be 
sure  !  the  ship  swung  a  little  and  got  nearly  broadside  on 
the  seas,  and  with  every  roll  she  shipped  a  sea  one  side 
or  the  other.  The  men  lashed  me  firmly  to  the  seat, 
which  is  bolted  to  the  companion-way,  and  I  just  rolled 
with  the  ship,  feeling  every  time  she  went  down  on  my 
side  that  the  great  wall  of  water  must  come  over  us. 
I  never  passed  such  a  night ;  and  there  opposite  was  our 
own  home,  and  every  time  the  ship  came  right  side  up 
I  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  lantern  which  our  people  kept 
on  the  flagstaff.  Of  course  no  one  slept.  Tamate  stayed 
down  below.  He  could  not  stand  on  deck,  and  he  could 
not  keep  in  the  berth  either.  Tamate  struggled  up 
and  peeped  over  at  me  two  or  three  times.  I  was  fast 
enough,  and  could  move  only  with  the  ship. 

1  The  '  Harrier'  was  a  large  schooner  which  had  been  purchased 
from  the  Government  by  the  Directors  of  the  London  Missionary 
Society  and  was  used  exclusively  in  the  service  of  the  New  Guinea 
Mission. 


280          The  Wreck  of  the  'Harrier' 

*  The  following  morning  we  landed,  and  were  all  delighted 
with  the  work  done,  especially  that  done  in  our  absence.' 

'  At  Motumotu,'  says  Mr.  Chalmers,  '  I  left  my  students 
in  charge  of  a  very  excellent  Tahitian,  who  has  done 
well.  In  manual  labour  during  my  absence  thay  have 
sawn  a  large  quantity  of  timber  for  a  house  for  the  Fly 
River ;  and  have  also  sawn  timber  for  and  built  a  very 
fine  schoolroom — the  best  in  the  mission.  The  teacher, 
Terai,  has  also  built  for  himself  a  house  every  way 
suitable  for  Motumotu,  and  thoroughly  comfortable. 

'  The  teachers  report  that  the  people  now  attend 
services  much  better,  and  I  was  delighted  to  find  that 
several  children  could  really  and  truly  read.  The 
students  do  arithmetic  to  simple  division  entirely  in 
English,  and  read  the  Motuan  Gospels  well.  I  believe 
what  I  thought  before  I  left  an  impossibility  will  shortly 
become  a  fact — the  young  people  will  sing,  and  do  so 
with  intelligence. 

'  On  July  10  I  left  Motumotu  for  Port  Moresby.  All 
were  well  then  and  hearty.  Owing  to  light  winds  and 
calm  we  did  not  arrive  in  Port  Moresby  until  Monday, 
July  13.  Wood  and  water  were  got  on  board,  the  ship 
cleared  at  the  Customs,  and  on  Saturday,  July  18,  we 
sailed  for  Cooktown.  We  had  as  passengers  three 
teachers  who  came  with  us  for  change  of  air,  one  young 
Irish  gentleman  who  was  anxious  to  get  away  from  Port 
Moresby,  and  Belford,  so  often  mentioned  in  our 
Governor's  report,  who  was  also  wanting  a  change. 

'  The  weather  came  on  very  dirty  just  after  we  left ;  but 
having  southerly  wind  we  got  to  Kerepuna  on  Sunday 
afternoon.  We  found  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Pearse  well.  Theirs 
is  a  pretty  station,  and  one  where  much  good  work  is 
being  done.  The  earnest,  steady  work  carried  on  must 
soon  tell,  and  be  felt  all  round. 


The  'Harrier'  strikes  281 

'  On  Monday,  July  20,  we  weighed  anchor,  and  stood 
away  for  Cooktown.  It  was  blowing  very  hard,  and  the 
weather  was  very  thick.  On  Thursday,  July  24,  we 
entered  the  Barrier  through  Cook's  opening,  a  little  to 
the  north  of  Lizard  Island ;  and  we  all  hoped  to  be  in 
Cooktown  the  following  morning.  It  was  a  rough  night, 
and  when  light  came  we  were  only  a  little  to  the  south  of 
the  Lizard.  We  kept  at  it  all  day,  carrying  away  our  head- 
sails  several  times,  and  two  of  the  forestays.  To  repair 
damages  we  anchored  for  a  short  time  to  leeward  of 
Three  Islands ;  and  at  four  p.m.  weighed  anchor  again, 
and  began  pile-driving  into  a  very  heavy  head-sea. 

'At  eight  p.m.,  off  Cape  Bedford,  we  rounded  ship,  and 
stood  off  on  the  starboard  tack,  hoping  that  when  we 
put  about  again  we  should  stand  right  into  Cooktown. 
Several  of  our  crew  were  married,  and  their  wives  living 
in  Cooktown,  so  "  Homeward  bound  "  was  frequently 
said  and  sung. 

'  The  night  was  wet,  dark  and  stormy,  and  I  turned  into 
my  bunk  some  time  before  nine  o'clock.  I  was  half 
asleep  when  the  captain,  in  his  oilskins,  came  down  to 
the  saloon,  and  had  a  look  at  his  chart,  and  then  went 
back.  Presently,  there  was  a  grating,  a  bound,  and  a 
fearful  thump !  I  knew  we  were  ashore,  and  sprang  to 
my  feet :  on  coat  and  slippers,  and  rushed  on  deck. 

'  In  passing  up  the  companion  I  looked  at  the  clock, 
the  time  was  9.15.  All  were  on  deck.  Orders  were 
immediately  given  to  lower  away  the  head-sails,  fore-sail 
and  main-sail.  Another  order  was  that  the  second 
officer  with  the  crew  should  take  a  kedge-anchor  in 
the  whaleboat,  find  deep  water,  and  drop  it.  This 
was  done,  and  soon  all  were  heaving  away  at  the 
kedge,  hoping  to  get  our  good  ship  off.  But  she 
was  fast  aground,  and  we  could  not  make  her  move 


282          The  Wreck  of  the  'Harrier' 

toward  deep  water.  As  the  tide  went  out  she  settled 
on  her  bilge,  in  which  position  we  were  anything  but 
comfortable. 

'Throughout  the  night  she  continued  bumping;  and 
in  the  morning  some  felt  there  was  little  hope  of  saving 
her.  The  kedge  was  moved  into  deep  water  aft,  and 
the  hawser  passed  in  over  the  starboard  quarter  and  away 
to  the  windlass,  when  it  was  hove  tight. 

*  During  the  day  part  of  the  iron  ballast  was  got  on 
deck  to  be  thrown  overboard  if  she  righted  with  the 
night  tide,  and  that  so  there  might  be  a  chance  of  getting 
her  off. 

'Flags  of  distress  were  flying  all  day,  but  no  vessel  saw 
us.  After  dark,  blue  lights  were  burned  and  rockets 
fired,  and  a  great  blaze  was  produced  by  firing  tow  steeped 
in  kerosene.  Our  hope  was  that  our  signals  might  be 
observed  from  Grassy  Hill,  Cooktown,  and  that  a  boat 
would  be  sent  to  our  relief  in  the  morning. 

1  Shortly  after  ten  p.m.  the  ship  righted.  Instantly  all 
were  hard  at  work,  some  throwing  ballast  overboard, 
others  heaving  away  at  the  windlass  until  they  nearly 
broke  the  hawser,  but  all  in  vain — she  was  on  too  fast  to 
be  got  off. 

'  As  the  tide  receded  she  again  settled  on  her  bilge. 
During  the  night  wind  and  sea  increased  and  in  the 
morning  it  was  evident  something  must  be  done  to  save 
our  lives.  The  ship  had  heeled  over  a  great  deal  more, 
and  the  heavy  sea  breaking  on  her  starboard  quarter 
made  us  fear  she  might  go  over  altogether.  It  was 
painful  work  hanging  on  to  her. 

'  Up  to  four  a.m.  on  Sunday  the  pumps  kept  her  dry, 
but  after  that  pumping  was  of  no  use,  as  the  water 
flowed  freely  in  and  out.  Between  seven  and  eight  a.m. 
it  was  decided  to  cut  away  the  masts,  in  order  to  ease  the 


'Master  Tom'  saved  283 

great  strain  they  made  on  the  wreck ;  and  in  a  short  time 
the  lee  rigging  was  hanging  away  free  of  the  ship ;  the 
forestays  were  cut  away,  the  masts  nicked  on  the  port 
side,  and  then  the  starboard  rigging  was  cut.  When  all 
was  free,  the  distress  signals  were  hauled  down  from  the 
mainmast :  there  came  one  fearful  crashing  sea :  a  loud 
crack  of  the  masts  giving  way:  a  starboard  swing,  and 
away  went  the  masts !  Eh !  it  was  a  sair,  sair  sicht 
to  see  our  pretty  "  Harrier  "  then. 

4  Orders  were  now  given  to  get  the  whaleboat  ready. 
The  sea  was  running  so  heavy  that  I  confess  I  did  not 
like  the  idea  of  crossing  over  to  the  Three  Islands. 
Still  there  was  no  hope  of  rescue  any  other  way.  Those 
islands  were  near  the  deep  route  for  vessels,  and  we  also 
knew  that  a  steamer  was  due  that  night  from  Normanton 
to  Cooktown. 

'  The  water  was  now  all  over  the  ship.  Provisions  for 
the  boat  and  for  those  remaining  on  the  wreck,  also  our 
few  effects,  were  got  ready.  Our  second  mate,  Mac- 
dougall,  a  young  man  from  Stornoway,  was  put  in 
charge  of  the  boat  with  three  of  the  crew.  The  boat 
was  well  handled,  and  kept  up  under  the  jibboom 
while  food  and  our  effects  were  passed  along,  and 
dropped  into  her.  Our  cook,  a  lame  man,  followed,  and 
then  we,  the  passengers,  letting  ourselves  down  by  hold- 
ing on  to  a  line,  and  as  the  boat  rose,  carefully  letting  go 
and  taking  a  seat. 

'Climbing  along  the  deck,  I  saw  one  of  the  sailors 
diving  into  the  hold.  I  called  out  to  him,  "  What  are 
you  doing  ? "  He  answered,  "  I  am  looking  for  the  poor 
cat,  to  save  him  by  taking  him  into  the  boat."  He  found 
"  Master  Tom,"  and  so  he  had  a  passage. 

'When  I  got  to  the  windlass  I  found  there  a  young 
cockatoo,  more  dead  than  alive,  and  screeching.  I  asked, 


284          The  Wreck  of  the  'Harrier* 

"What  about  Cockle?"  to  which  one  fellow  replied, 
"  Oh,  we  save  him  ;  he  go  in  boat." 

'  There  were  eleven  of  us  all  told  in  the  boat,  together 
with  our  provisions  and  effects.  Many  of  the  others,  as 
well  as  myself,  never  expected  to  reach  land.  We  were 
heavily  laden,  a  gale  of  wind  was  blowing,  and  a  very 
high  sea  running.  But  by  the  aid  of  constant  bailing, 
and  Macdougall's  splendid  management  with  his  steer- 
oar,  we  rounded  the  reef,  got  under  the  lee  of  and 
landed  on  Three  Islands.  I  think  every  heart  was  honest 
in  returning  thanks  to  our  heavenly  Father  for  His  care 
over  us. 

'  We  took  possession  of  a  beche-de-mer  station,  and 
soon  had  a  fire  going,  changed  our  clothes,  and  put  out 
all  the  wet  things  to  dry.  "  Tom  "  was  a  real  ship's  cat, 
and  when  he  touched  the  sand  it  was  amusing  to  see  him 
shake  his  feet  as  cats  do  when  crossing  wet.  It  was  too 
much  for  him,  so  he  rushed  back  into  the  water,  and  up 
on  to  the  boat.  "  Cockie  "  did  look  a  pitiable  object,  and 
when  put  down  was  heard  calling  for  his  sailor  friend. 
He  was  picked  up,  placed  by  the  fire,  and  soon  recovered, 
but  would  not  be  left  alone. 

4  There  was  a  large  patch  of  dry  grass  on  the  island, 
which  we  fired  to  let  those  on  board  know  we  had 
arrived,  and  to  show  passing  vessels  that  the  island  was 
inhabited.  Of  course  we  were  all  anxious  to  see  a 
vessel  of  some  kind,  and  about  two  hours  after  landing 
a  small  lugger  passed  to  the  north,  but  did  not  see  our 
signals  of  distress.  About  five  p.m.  another  vessel  was 
seen  beating  down  from  the  north,  and  she  was  anxiously 
watched ;  but  keeping  well  in  under  the  mainland,  she 
did  not  see  our  signals,  and  the  sun  set.  When  quite 
dark  we  burned  two  blue  lights,  and  fired  one  rocket  in 
hopes  of  attracting  the  attention  of  those  on  board 


Rescued  by  the  'Governor  Cairns'      285 

the  vessel  we  had  seen  just  before  sunset.  We  were  all 
sore  and  tired,  and  right  glad  to  lay  down  on  the  sand 
and  rest,  keeping  watch  about.  Often  during  the  night 
we  fancied  we  could  see  a  steamer's  light  approaching, 
but  it  was  mere  imagination. 

'After  sunrise  we  saw  the  lugger  that  had  passed  north 
beating  back  towards  us,  and  shortly  after  the  other 
vessel  running  down  to  the  lee  of  the  island.  The  latter 
we  soon  recognized  to  be  the  Queensland  Government 
vessel  the  "  Governor  Cairns,"  and  soon  after  she  came  to 
anchor  we  were  all  on  board  of  her.  The  lugger  eased 
away  her  main  sheet,  and  stood  before  the  wind  for  the 
north.  Captain  Cole  of  the  "  Governor  Cairns  "  received 
us  kindly,  and  on  hearing  there  were  others  on  the  wreck 
immediately  weighed  anchor  and  beat  to  the  leeward  of 
the  reef. 

'  By  one  p.m.  we  anchored  to  the  lee  of  the  reef,  and  by 
four  o'clock  all  those  who  had  been  left  on  the  wreck 
were  on  board ;  the  anchor  was  weighed,  and  we  made 
for  Cooktown,  arriving  there  that  night. 

'On  landing  at  Three  Islands,  the  cook  preceded  us  up 
the  beach,  and  wben  near  the  shanties  formerly  occupied 
by  the  beche-de-mer  fishermen,  he  turned  round,  and 
producing  a  cake  of  Pears'  soap,  said,  "  Now  if  any  of 
you  want  a  wash,  here's  the  soap,  but  no  towels."  How 
he  came  by  the  soap  is  a  mystery.' 


CHAPTER  XIX 

HOW  TAMATE  MADE  FRIENDS  WITH 
SAVAGES 

MR.  C.  W.  ABEL  of  Kwato,  New  Guinea,  an  old 
friend  and  junior  colleague  of  Chalmers,  has  given 
a  striking  sketch  of  Tamate,  as  he  appeared  when 
making  friends  with  new  tribes.  Mr.  Abel  and  his 
wife  at  the  time  this  characteristic  incident  happened 
were  on  board  a  vessel  anchored  off  the  Purari  river. 

'  The  officer  who  had  been  ashore  brought  me  a  note 
written  in  pencil.  I  opened  it,  and  to  my  surprise  and 
delight  found  that  it  was  from  Tamate.  He  told  me  he 
was  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  with  his  steam  launch 
"Miro."  It  was  an  ill-wind,  he  reminded  me,  which 
served  no  one,  and  he  would  be  off  to  see  me  and  to 
make  my  wife's  acquaintance  later  in  the  day.  He 
concluded  his  note  by  saying  that  he  had  something 
important  to  suggest  to  me. 

'  By  and  by  the  little  launch  steamed  out  of  the  river, 
and  in  half  an  hour  Tamate  was  with  us.  He  was  in 
the  highest  spirits.  Tamate's  temperament  was  not 
always  hilarious.  There  were  times  when  he  was 
uncommunicative,  and  almost  inaccessible.  His  serious- 
ness on  Sundays  was  very  marked ;  and  he  spent  these 
times  with  his  own  reflections.  His  prevailing  disposi- 
tion was  in  striking  contrast  to  these  periodically  pensive 
moods.  Then  grey  hairs  seemed  inappropriate,  and  his 


A  Trip  with  Tamate  287 

buoyant  spirits  unfailing.  He  came  on  board  the  steam 
yacht  in  the  highest  spirits.  It  was  not  long  before  he 
took  me  aside,  and  opened  up  the  subject  to  which 
he  had  alluded  in  his  note. 

'  He  had  learnt  from  the  Governor  that  the  steamer 
would  be  detained  at  her  present  anchorage  for  ten 
days.  We  might  chafe,  he  said,  at  our  misfortune,  but 
it  was  better  for  us  to  accept  our  position  philosophically 
and  make  the  best  of  it.  Here  was  a  splendid  oppor- 
tunity for  a  trip  up  the  Aivai  river  together.  There 
was  a  big,  influential  tribe  somewhere  up  there  he 
wanted  to  visit.  They  had  never  seen  a  white  man 
yet ;  and  I  might  spend  the  time  of  my  enforced  leisure 
to  good  purpose,  if  we  went  and  opened  the  way  to 
future  intercourse  with  these  savages. 

'  He  put  the  idea  before  me  with  the  air  of  a  schoolboy 
who  has  an  unexpected  holiday  in  prospect ;  but  I  do 
Tamate  an  injustice  unless  I  add  that  his  jubilant  spirits 
were  the  outcome  of  no  mere  love  of  excitement  and 
adventure,  though  this  was  always  strong  in  him,  but 
of  a  deep  and  earnest  conviction  that  he  was  engaging 
in  a  glorious  enterprise  for  Christ.  Tamate 's  face  wore 
an  expression  of  disappointment,  when,  after  telling  him 
how  delighted  I  should  be  to  join  him,  I  went  on  to  say 
that  I  might  be  something  like  the  man  in  the  parable, 
and  have  to  excuse  myself  on  the  grounds  of  my  recent 
marriage.  I  left  him  on  deck  to  go  and  seek  my  wife, 
and  get  her  permission  for  me  to  leave  her  alone  on 
board  for  a  day  or  two. 

'  My  wife  put  the  matter  in  an  entirely  new  light ;  and 
I  had  to  return  to  Tamate  with  a  suggestion  I  was 
doubtful  whether  he  would  agree  to. 

4 "  If,"  said  my  wife,  "  I  may  accompany  you,  certainly 
you  may  go." 


288    How  Tamate  made  Friends  with  Savages 

c  Tamate  received  this  intimation  in  silence.  Then  he 
shook  his  head  gravely.  At  last  he  said  : 

' "  It's  very  rough  work  you  know  for  a  woman — we 
may  get  into  serious  trouble — it's  hardly  the  place  to 
take  a  young  lady,  is  it?" 

'  Then  his  face  underwent  a  sudden  change.  "  Come 
along,"  said  he,  quite  carried  away  by  a  new  idea; 
"  splendid !  splendid !  We'll  make  it  the  white  woman's 
peace.  Bravo !  "  And  he  praised  my  wife  for  the  stand 
she  had  taken. 

'By  nine  o'clock  the  following  morning  we  were 
steaming  up  the  Aivai  river  in  the  "  Miro."  There 
was  something  strange  in  the  thought  that  we  were  the 
first  civilized  people  to  navigate  that  rapid  stream.  This 
was  the  atmosphere  in  which  Tamate  had  lived,  on  and 
off,  for  years ;  but  he  seemed  to  find  as  much  enjoyment 
in  it  that  morning  as  if  it  was  a  novelty.  There  was 
nothing  to  be  seen,  mile  after  mile,  but  the  dead  level 
of  the  mangroves,  and  the  alternating  thick  bush  which 
lined  the  banks  on  either  side. 

'  We  had  only  a  very  imperfect  idea  of  the  distance 
we  had  to  go.  lala,  the  village  we  were  presently  to 
take  by  surprise,  was  known  to  only  one  man  in  our 
party.  Iko  was  to  introduce  us  to  this  new  tribe. 
He  was  very  emphatic  in  all  his  answers  to  the  many 
questions  with  which  we  plied  him,  as  to  the  distance 
we  had  yet  to  travel.  He  measured  his  miles  along  the 
joints  of  his  forefinger.  Tamate  always  addressed  him 
through  an  interpreter.  Tamate  spoke  in  Motuan  to 
old  Vaaburi,  and  Vaaburi  passed  his  remark  on  in  another 
dialect  to  Iko.  Then  Iko's  forefinger  was  usually  brought 
into  requisition,  and  though  we  were  doubtful  to  begin 
with  whether  the  full  length  of  this  indispensable  digit 
represented  ten,  or  twenty,  or  fifty  miles,  it  was  a  source 


Tamate's  Interpreter  289 

of  satisfaction  to  us  to  find  that  after  midday  we  were 
approaching  Iko's  claw-like  nail. 

'  Tamate  always  had  a  retinue  of  old  men  with  him  on 
his  travels.  They  were  not  necessarily  men  who  had 
been  chosen  to  accompany  him  because  of  their  Christian 
character.  They  were  oftener,  I  think,  men  who  of  their 
own  accord  attached  themselves  to  him.  Vaaburi,  though 
his  sympathies  were  with  the  mission,  was  not  a  strong 
man ;  but  Tamate  fascinated  him.  It  was  amusing  to 
witness  Tamate's  occasional  banter  with  his  shifty-eyed 
admirer.  Vaaburi's  ecstasy  was  unbounded  when  his 
master  would  stand  up  in  front  of  him,  and  addressing 
him  sternly  in  English — a  language  no  word  of  which 
he  understood — would  tell  him  what  a  rare  rascal  he 
was,  and  how  seriously  his  presence  compromised  the 
mission.  "  You  old  humbug,  you !  **  Tamate  would 
say  in  conclusion ;  and  Vaaburi's  cup  of  joy  would 
be  full. 

'About  three  o'clock,  after  we  had  been  steaming  for 
six  hours,  Iko  had  reached  the  middle  of  his  nail ;  and 
as  we  turned  each  successive  bend  in  the  river,  we 
looked  expectantly  ahead  for  any  sign  of  lala.  Our 
position  was  growing  more  and  more  exciting  every 
minute.  Somewhere,  a  little  ahead  of  us,  a  large  savage 
community  were  engaged  in  their  ordinary  daily  occupa- 
tions, of  whatsoever  sort  they  were,  in  utter  ignorance 
of  our  approach.  What  a  day  to  be  remembered  by 
them  this  was  to  be,  when  for  the  first  time  they  were 
to  see  people  with  white  skins,  and  when  their  first  intro- 
duction to  civilization  was  to  be  the  sudden  approach 
of  our  steam  launch! 

'  At  length  we  turned  a  sharp  bend  in  the  river,  and 
a  long  straight  reach  lay  before  us.  Iko  ejaculated 
something  which  arrested  our  attention.  There  was 

T 


290    How  Tamate  made  Friends  with  Savages 

no  doubt  as  to  his  meaning1.  We  peered  ahead,  and 
there,  in  the  far  distance,  were  the  clustered  houses  of 
lala,  on  both  banks  of  the  narrow  river. 

* "  Slow ! "  shouted  Tamate  to  the  West  Indian  in 
charge  of  the  engine. 

'The  "  Miro  "  slackened  speed,  and  for  some  time  only 
just  managed  to  stem  the  swift  current. 

' "  It  will  be  a  bit  of  a  shock  to  them,"  said  Tamate, 
"  to  see  this  thing.  We'll  give  them  time  to  collect  their 
scattered  wits." 

'  A  little  later  the  order  was  given  to  go  full  speed 
ahead  ;  and  as  we  lessened  the  distance  between  us  and 
our  startled  friends,  we  could  see  through  our  glasses 
the  commotion  we  were  causing  amongst  them.  Men 
were  rushing  about  in  frantic  excitement,  while  canoes 
were  hurriedly  crossing  and  recrossing  the  river  in  the 
wildest  bewilderment.  It  was  much  like  the  agitation 
you  have  noticed  when  you  have  trodden  unconsciously 
upon  an  ant-hill. 

4 "  Go  slow !  "  Tamate  ordered  again ;  and  the  engines 
were  slowed  down  a  second  time. 

' "  It  will  never  do,"  said  Tamate,  "  to  drop  amongst 
them  while  they  are  in  that  state.  They'll  settle  down 
presently." 

*  He  looked  up  to  the  narrow  strip  of  sky  between  the 
thickly  timbered  banks  of  the  river. 

'  "  We've  a  good  two  hours'  daylight  yet,"  he  said. 
"  There's  plenty  of  time." 

*  I  have  watched  the  Motumotu  whaleboat  coxswain 
waiting  patiently  off  the  shore  for  an  opportunity  to  get 
through  the  pounding  surf,  and  land  his  boat  on  the 
beach  in  safety.    The  man's  experienced  eye  would  scan 
the  water  seaward,  while  he  held  his  crew  with  their  long 
oars  in  readiness  to  pull  hard  as  soon  as  he  should  give  the 


Tamate's  Keen  Insight  291 

order.  Presently  he  would  detect  some  slight  abatement 
amongst  the  surging  billows,  and  this  would  be  his 
opportunity.  The  order  given,  the  six  oars  would  bend 
to  their  work,  and  the  boat  would  fly  towards  the  beach. 
She  would  get  amongst  the  breakers.  One  would  catch 
her  astern  and  lift  her  bodily,  and  breaking  and  boiling 
along  her  sides  would  land  her  home  in  a  sea  of  seething 
foam.  The  breaker  before  it,  or  the  breaker  after  it, 
would  have  swamped  the  boat. 

*  Tamate  had  this  rare  faculty  of  opportuneness.  He 
knew  how  to  wait  for  the  favourable  moment.  He  knew 
exactly  when  to  act,  and,  what  is  quite  as  essential  in  the 
pioneer,  he  knew  precisely  when  to  finish  his  work  for 
the  time  being,  and  get  away. 

'  The  commotion  having  subsided  to  some  extent, 
Tamate  ordered  the  engines  ahead  once  more ;  and  we 
crept  slowly  up  the  river,  and  drew  nearer  and  nearer  to 
lala.  We  came  up  to  the  first  houses,  and  then  passed  along 
between  the  villages  on  both  sides  of  us  until  we  reached 
the  heart  of  this  strange  community.  Hundreds  of  men 
stood  on  either  bank  as  silent  and  motionless  as  the 
trees  of  the  primaeval  forest  around  them.  They  had 
hauled  their  canoes  partly  up  the  river-bank,  but  ready 
to  be  launched  at  a  moment's  notice ;  and  they  stood 
erect  in  rows  along  the  bottoms  of  their  boats.  There 
was  not  a  woman  or  a  child  to  be  seen  in  all  that  dense 
crowd.  These  were  the  fighting  men  of  lala  ;  and  they 
were  prepared,  dumbfounded  as  they  were,  to  defend 
themselves  against  an  attack  from  gods,  or  devils,  ot 
men,  or  whatever  it  might  be  that  was  invading  them. 

'  Iko  took  up  a  position  in  the  bows  of  the  "  Miro. ' 
Tamate  stood  a  few  feet  away  from  him.  Neither  of 
them  spoke,  as  we  slowly  came  to  our  anchorage,  and 
then  stopped,  and  dropped  the  kedge  overboard.  Not 

T  a 


292    How  Tamate  made  Friends  with  Savages 

a  sound  reached  us  from  the  hundreds  of  men  who 
surrounded  us.  As  soon  as  the  West  Indian  engineer 
heard  the  anchor-chain  pay  out,  he  took  upon  himself 
to  express  his  jubilant  feelings  by  blowing  the  steam- 
whistle.  A  trifling  mistake  of  this  kind  might  have  cost 
us  our  lives.  No  sooner  had  the  sharp  shriek  been 
given  than  a  spontaneous  buzz  arose,  and  every  man 
was  armed  and  ready  to  discharge  his  arrow  at  us. 
Before  this  we  had  seen  no  weapons.  They  had  care- 
fully hidden  their  long  bows  down  their  bodies  on  the 
side  turned  away  from  us,  and  their  arrows  were  in 
their  feet.  When  the  whistle  blew,  without  stooping 
they  lifted  the  arrows  between  their  toes,  and  like 
a  flash  they  had  fixed  them,  and,  taking  up  a  defiant 
attitude,  were  holding  their  bows  taut,  and  taking  aim 
at  our  exposed  and  defenceless  position. 

'The  old  man  Iko  mounted  the  low  bulwark,  and 
shouted  a  word  at  the  top  of  his  voice.  That  word 
reached  every  ear  in  lala.  He  paused  a  moment, 
and  shouted  the  same  word  again.  "Peace!  Peace!" 

1  Then  he  called  again,  "  Pouta !  "  This  was  the 
name  of  the  chief  of  the  savages  who  held  us  at  their 
mercy.  After  a  brief  silence  a  voice  answered  from 
the  eastern  bank  of  the  river ;  and  with  the  precision 
of  a  trained  army  the  men  took  up  their  former  atti- 
tude, and  not  a  weapon  was  to  be  seen.  A  brisk 
conversation  followed  between  Iko  and  his  friend 
Pouta,  Tamate  prompting  the  sentiments  through  his 
interpreter.  We  had  no  means  of  getting  ashore,  as 
we  had  left  our  dinghey  at  the  mouth  of  the  river. 
After  considerable  hesitation  a  canoe  was  launched,  and 
slowly  approached  the  "  Miro."  As  it  came  towards  us 
Tamate  left  his  position  forward  and  joined  us  amid- 
ships. To  say  he  was  not  anxious  would  be  misleading. 


Tamate's  Brief  Address  293 

He  saw  the  imminent  danger  we  were  in,  but  he  was 
calm  and  self-possessed,  and  perfectly  master  of  the 
situation.  This  was  his  particular  forte.  He  relaxed 
for  a  few  moments,  and  standing-  beside  my  wife,  con- 
gratulated her  on  her  composure. 

4 "  You  see,"  he  said,  "  you  have  the  distinction  of 
being  the  only  woman  here.  Nothing  will  give  these 
savages  greater  confidence  in  us  than  your  presence." 

'The  canoe  came  alongside,  and  we  all  got  in  and 
pushed  off,  and  were  soon  being  paddled  to  the  land- 
ing-place, where  the  crowd  was  densest.  We  grounded ; 
and  Tamate,  who  was  in  the  fore  end  of  the  canoe, 
stepped  out.  Iko  followed  him  and  led  him  to  Pouta. 
Tamate  embraced  him  heartily. 

'Pouta  took  up  a  prominent  position,  and  for  two 
minutes  harangued  his  men  at  the  top  of  his  voice. 
Then  he  returned  to  where  we  were  standing.  What 
he  said  none  of  us  knew  ;  but  the  effect  of  his  short 
oration  was  to  be  seen  in  the  fact  that  no  man  moved 
from  his  position.  Where  we  stood  we  were  completely 
encircled  by  a  multitude  of  bewildered  men.  Their 
faces  were  almost  expressionless  with  emotion.  They 
stood  spell-bound,  as  they  gazed  upon  the  strange 
apparition  of  our  presence. 

*  Tamate  got  to  work  at  once.  He  addressed  Pouta 
and  his  men  through  Vaaburi  and  Iko.  He  told  them 
that  we  had  sought  them  out  in  order  that  we  might 
become  their  friends.  We  came  unarmed.  We  brought 
with  us  a  woman.  They  were  not  to  suppose  we  were 
enemies  because  we  were  strangers.  We  had  great 
things  to  tell  them,  of  which  they  were  ignorant. 
Some  day  we  would  come  again,  and  stay  with  them, 
and  tell  them  our  message.  At  Tamate's  suggestion 
Iko,  closing  his  eyes,  offered  a  short  prayer  to  God, 


294    How  Tamate  made  Friends  with  Savages 

"  God  of  all  mercy,  save  this  people ; "  that  must  have 
been  the  prayer  Tamate  put  into  Iko's  mouth. 

'  The  short  prayer  finished,  Tamate  said  to  me : — 

' "  Now,  Abel,  we  must  get  aboard  as  quickly  as  we 
can.  Ten  minutes  of  this  strain  is  as  much  as  these 
people  can  stand.  My  plan  for  a  first  visit,"  he  con- 
tinued, "  is  to  arrive,  make  friends,  and  get  away  again 
before  the  people  realize  what  has  happened.  Every- 
thing depends  now  upon  our  dispatch.  After  we  are 
gone  they  can  think  calmly  about  us ;  and  next  time 
we  come  we  shall  come  amongst  friends." 

'We  got  into  the  canoe  again  and  were  paddled  to 
the  "  Miro."  A  minute  after  we  reached  the  launch 
the  anchor  was  weighed.  With  some  difficulty  the 
"  Miro  "  swung  round,  the  engines  were  started,  and 
with  the  full  sweep  of  the  strong  current  with  us,  we 
were  soon  past  the  silent  men  who  lined  the  banks; 
lala  was  behind  us,  and  our  work  for  Christ  that 
day  was  done. 

1  Tamate's  power  over  savages  was  partly  a  personal 
thing.  To  attempt  to  describe  it  would  be  to  describe 
the  man.  It  was  in  his  presence,  his  carriage,  his  eye, 
his  voice.  It  was  not  only  wild  men  whom  he  fascinated. 
There  was  something  almost  hypnotic  about  him,  and 
his  subjects  might  be  savages,  or  they  might  be  saints. 
"Tamate  said  we  must  give  up  cannibalism  .  .  .  and 
we  did'''  There  is  a  short  biography  of  the  pioneer 
in  old  Manurewa's  words.  Then  again,  his  judgement, 
largely  the  result  of  wide  experience  in  critical  situations, 
was  unerring.  He  saw  evil  brooding  where  an  inex- 
perienced eye  would  have  seen  nothing  to  fear;  he 
was  equally  certain  everything  was  satisfactory,  when 
a  novice  would  have  suspected  danger. 

'His  fearlessness  must  have  been  a  great  factor  of 


Tamate's  Power  over  Savages         295 

success  in  his  hazardous  work.  He  disarmed  men  by 
boldly  going  amongst  them  unarmed.  Even  savages 
must  think  twice  before  they  strike  a  man  who  is  not 
only  defenceless,  but  unconcerned  in  the  presence  of 
poised  spears.  Run  away,  and  they  will  hunt  you : 
tremble  before  them,  and  they  will  quickly  justify  your 
fears  and  torture  you  :  but  face  them — if  you  can — as 
if  their  weapons  were  toys  and  they  your  friends,  and 
whatever  thoughts  were  in  their  minds  they  will  with- 
hold the  deed;  and  in  postponing  their  violence  you 
are  saved. 

'Tamate  was  not  only  fearless,  but  as  a  pioneer  he 
was  also  perfectly  cool.  These  characteristics  do  not 
always  go  hand  in  hand;  though  both  are  essential  to 
success  in  such  unique  work  as  Tamate's.  It  was  a  sur- 
prise to  me  to  find  that  he  possessed  this  quality,  because 
under  ordinary  circumstances  he  was  often  impetuous 
and  excitable.  His  perfect  composure,  as  well  as  his 
judgement,  and  tact,  and  fearlessness,  humanly  speaking, 
saved  our  party  from  disaster  at  lala,  as  this  rare  com- 
bination of  qualities  must  have  brought  him  through 
a  hundred  difficulties  of  a  like  kind,  during  his  long 
service  for  Christ  in  New  Guinea.' 


CHAPTER  XX 

UP  AND   DOWN  THE  FLY  RIVER 

THE  great  Fly  River  had  for  many  years  attracted 
Tamate's  attention.  He  thought  that  it  would  be  the 
most  easy  road  to  the  vast  unexplored  interior  of  New 
Guinea.  He  was  anxious  to  evangelize  the  wild  tribes 
along  its  banks.  The  London  Missionary  Society  were 
eager  to  establish  stations  near  the  mouth  and  far  up  the 
great  stream.  For  this  work  a  steam  launch  was  neces- 
sary, and  in  the  course  of  1891  the  gifts  of  friends  in 
New  Zealand  and  Australia  enabled  Tamate  to  ^secure 
a  boat  which  he  named  the  '  Miro.1  This  enabled  new 
stations  to  be  opened  on  the  island  of  Kiwai,  in  the 
delta  of  the  Fly  River,  at  Ipisia  and  Saguane. 

On  Jan.  5,  1892,  the  'Miro'  reached  Thursday  Island, 
and  was  at  once  taken  over  by  Tamate.  On  Jan.  1 2  she 
sailed  on  her  first  voyage,  and  went  by  way  of  Darnley 
Island,  Murray  Island,  and  Dauan  to  Saguane,  and  then 
across  to  Vailala.  Thence  Tamate  visited  all  the  main 
stations  on  the  coast  as  far  as  Tupuselei,  calling  both  on 
the  outward  and  return  journey. 

The  *  Miro's '  next  trip  was  up  the  great  river  itself. 
Between  1873  and  1893  four  expeditions  ascended  the 
Fly  River,  and  on  each  occasion  the  natives  appeared  in 
numerous  canoes,  and  bore  down  on  the  expeditions  as 
if  to  attack  them,  so  that  they  had  to  fire.  Tamate  was 
strongly  advised  not  to  go  near  these  people,  but  he  felt 


How  Tamate  did  his  Work  297 

he  could  not  return  to  Britain  and  leave  them  unvisited 
and  unfriendly.  So  he  steamed  up  the  mighty  stream, 
landing  wherever  he  could,  in  order  if  possible  to  make 
friends  with  the  natives.  It  was  hard  work,  and  dan- 
gerous work.  Here  are  one  or  two  illustrations  of  how 
it  was  done,  and  what  it  meant. 

On  leaving  Sumai  to  visit  the  unfriendly  tribes  on  the 
Fly  River,  he  steamed  up  against  the  current  for  some  dis- 
tance, and  dropped  anchor  opposite  an  opening  in  the  bush. 
On  landing  he  was  taken  charge  of  and  conducted  into 
the  bush,  to  a  place  where  there  were  several  small  tem- 
porary buildings,  in  place  of  a  very  large  house  which 
had  been  recently  burned  down.  The  excitement  was 
great,  as  these  natives  had  never  before  seen  white  men, 
except  at  rifle  range,  and  now  they  saw  and  touched 
one.  The  noise  and  shouting  were  great,  and  to  an 
excitable  and  imaginative  person  it  might  have  appeared 
that  the  hour  of  doom  had  come.  Tamate  and  his  party 
were,  as  always,  unarmed,  he  himself  having  only  a 
walking-stick,  which  was  useful  in  going  over  native 
bridges  and  for  long  walks.  Some  of  the  men  were 
very  evil-looking,  and  the  women,  who  were  gathered 
in  the  houses,  were  not  at  all  prepossessing.  A  few  of  the 
men  had  been  to  Sumai,  and  had  obtained  in  exchange 
for  yams,  taro,  bows  and  arrows,  old  filthy  shirts,  in 
which  they  certainly  looked  fearful  guys. 

Tamate  held  a  service  in  front  of  the  houses,  at 
which  his  interpreters  spoke  and  prayed.  All  seemed 
to  understand  them,  and  gave  audible  assent  to  their 
statements.  How  strange  it  must  be  for  tribes  such  as 
these,  when  they  hear  for  the  first  time  '  The  Great 
Spirit  is  love,'  and  loves  them! 

Tamate  got  on  to  the  small  verandah  of  one  of  the 
houses,  and  with  difficulty  passed  presents  on  to  the 


298         Up  and  Down  the  Fly  River 

women  and  children  inside.  There  were  some  very 
suspicious  movements— groups  consulting,  men  going 
to  the  houses,  and  a  noise  of  arrows  being  handled; 
and  so  after  a  little  time  it  was  thought  advisable  to 
get  back  to  the  launch. 

Getting  up  anchor  next  morning  the  '  Miro '  steamed 
along  the  bank  for  a  few  miles,  and  came  to  shallow 
water.  There  it  anchored,  some  distance  from  the  one 
large  house  village  of  Aduru.  Soon  over  one  hundred 
and  fifty  canoes  gathered  around  it,  and  on  an  average 
four  men  in  each  canoe,  all  shouting  at  their  loudest. 
The  natives  could  not  be  kept  from  crowding  on 
board,  and  at  one  time  it  was  very  uncomfortable,  and 
they  seemed  as  if  they  meant  to  be  unpleasant.  Tamate 
was  ill  with  fever,  and  did  not  feel  inclined  to  land, 
and  also  thought  it  advisable  to  remain  on  the  launch, 
so  that  if  trouble  arose  he  might  be  at  hand.  The 
engineer  and  interpreters  landed,  remaining  for  some 
time,  and  on  their  return  reported  the  place  to  be 
swampy  and  full  of  strong  smells.  Tamate  made 
friends  with  a  young  man,  named  Zagai,  whom  they 
called  a  chief,  by  means  of  a  present,  and  prevailed  on 
him  to  accompany  us  up  the  river.  But  his  people, 
after  the  habit  of  savages,  were  much  opposed  to  his 
going,  and  at  one  time  became  very  noisy  on  board 
about  it.  Tamate  gave  them  to  understand  at  last 
that  he  would  not  take  him,  and  Zagai  then,  in  his 
turn,  became  angry  with  his  people,  and  told  them 
he  would  go  with  the  white  man. 

A  few  days  later  the  '  Miro  '  steamed  up  the  river  for 
some  miles,  against  a  strong  current,  until  it  came  to 
where  there  were  two  creeks,  one  running  south  and  the 
other  west.  Tamate  landed  and  found  one  long  house 
and  five  smaller.  In  the  latter  were  all  the  women  and 


Making  Friends  on  the  Fly  River      299 

children,  the  doors  barricaded  with  wood.  Nothing 
would  induce  them  to  let  the  women  and  children  out 
to  receive  presents  of  beads. 

Weighing  anchor  again,  the  '  Miro  '  proceeded  up  the 
river  until  it  came  to  another  large  creek.  The  '  Miro ' 
anchored  off  the  mouth  of  the  creek.  Soon  those  on 
board  could  see  numbers  of  armed  men  in  the  banana 
plantation  at  the  point.  Some  left  their  arms  and  came 
down  the  bank  to  the  water's  edge,  whilst  the  greatest 
number  remained  carrying  their  bows  and  arrows,  and 
ready  for  whatever  might  take  place.  Very  cautiously 
a  canoe  was  seen  coming  down  the  creek,  and  with  a 
good  deal  of  shouting,  inviting  them  alongside,  we 
prevailed  on  them  to  come.  Then  another  followed, 
and  soon  we  had  several.  Tamate  got  into  a  canoe  and 
ordered  his  interpreters  to  come  with  him  ;  the  dinghey 
was  to  follow  some  time  after.  Paddling  up  the  creek 
he  saw  the  natives  on  the  bank  handling  their  bows 
and  placing  arrows,  and  he  protested  through  the 
interpreters  against  this  manner  of  receiving  friends. 
There  was  a  great  deal  of  shouting  and  a  spurt  of 
paddling,  until  we  got  to  the  village.  Tamate  landed, 
and  having  got  the  chiefs  name  called  for  him,  and  in 
his  presence  emphatically  protested  against  the  men  with 
arms  lining  the  bank.  Ona,  one  of  the  interpreters, 
assisted,  saying  that  Tamate  was  a  great  friend  of  the 
Domori  chiefs,  and  was  a  man  of  peace,  and  that  his 
4  fire  canoe '  was  a  '  peace  canoe.' 

Tamate 's  time  was  now  up,  so  he  decided  to  return 
down  the  river,  having  accomplished  the  object  for 
which  he  came — to  make  friends  with  the  dwellers  on 
the  banks  of  the  Fly  River,  and  so  open  the  way  for  the 
introduction  of  the  Gospel  at  a  later  date. 

Unhappily  closer  acquaintance  with   the  Fly  River 


3OO         Up  and  Down  the  Fly  River 

soon  made  two  things  clear.  First,  that  the  engines  of 
the  '  Miro '  were  not  nearly  powerful  enough  to  contend 
with  the  vast  waters  ;  secondly,  the  difficulties  of  reach- 
ing the  natives  in  any  effective  way  were  greater  and 
more  serious  than  even  Tamate  anticipated.  Here  is 
an  illustration  of  how  the  Fly  River  dealt  with  the 
'  Miro.' 

'DAUAN,  September  22,  1893. 

'  A  few  hours  ago  I  arrived  here  in  the  whaleboat 
from  the  Fly  River.  That  word  "  river  "  has  been  the 
bane  of  my  life  since  I  came  here.  Everybody  seems  to 
think  of  a  splendid  stream  of  fresh  water  gently  flowing 
through  tropical  countries  and  falling  into  the  Papuan 
Gulf.  I  myself,  until  this  last  season's  experience,  thought 
it  might  be  a  little  boisterous  at  the  mouth,  but  up  the 
river  a  large,  calm,  peaceful  stream.  I  now  know  it  to 
be  a  fearful  place  for  gales  of  wind  and  heavy  seas,  and 
up  it  a  dangerous  bore  during  spring  tides. 

'  At  Domori  I  got  the  chief  on  board,  and,  anxious  to 
get  him  right  away,  cleared  out  for  the  island  close  by 
where  I  have  been  before.  Crossing  to  the  island  we  were 
carrying  one  fathom  good  all  the  way,  when  suddenly  we 
were  on  a  mud-bank  fast  enough.  About  6.30  the  tide 
rose  a  little,  and  we  pulled  on  a  kedge  I  had  got  out 
astern.  We  were  off  when  we  heard  a  peculiar  express 
train  noise,  and  soon  were  on  the  bank  again,  and  all  on 
board  thought  it  was  all  up  with  us.  A  big  bore  tore 
down  on  us,  and  carried  the  "  Miro  "  bodily,  anchor  and 
all,  on  to  the  bank,  and  away  across  it.  Although  we 
gave  her  the  bow  anchor  that  too  went  with  us.  We 
pulled  up  in  six  fathoms  of  water  to  find  the  rudder 
would  not  work.  Next  morning  we  kedged  her  ashore 
on  to  a  bank  of  the  mainland,  and  when  the  water  left 
her  high  and  dry  we  found  the  rudder-post  bent  and 


Perils  of  the  Fly  River  301 

cracked,  and  the  stern-post  carried  quite  away  on  the 
under  part.  For  two  nights  we  remained  on  that  bank, 
but  had  to  clear  out  into  better  quarters. 

1  No  use  burking  it,  we  want  more  powerful  engines 
and  a  different  boiler,  and  a  protracted  keel  to  protect 
the  propeller  and  strong  enough  to  hold  the  rudder. 
There  are  banks  innumerable  and  unknown  in  the  river, 
and  we  must  be  prepared  for  them.  No  one  knows  the 
Fly  River,  and  only  now  are  tribes  and  villages  coming 
to  light,  and  to  each  one  of  these  we  want  to  bring  the 
Gospel.  No  use  finding  fault  with  any  one,  the  Fly 
River  is  a  river,  but  a  bad,  bad  river,  unknown  to  any 
one.  I  think,  and  am  troubled  about  the  expense,  but 
I  look  through  glasses  beautifully  clear,  and  I  see  savage 
tribes  now  unknown  sitting  and  being  taught  of  Jesus.' 

The  Centenary  celebrations  of  the  London  Missionary 
Society  began  in  1895.  The  Directors,  in  view  of  that 
great  event,  deemed  it  advisable  to  secure  the  magnetic 
and  heart-stirring  advocacy  of  Tamate  at  the  great 
meetings  which  were  to  be  held  all  over  the  country. 
On  reaching  Thursday  Island  in  March,  1894,  he  found 
a  telegram  awaiting  him,  brief  but  to  the  point ; 
'  Directors  want  you  home.'  By  the  middle  of  May  he 
was  on  his  way  to  England. 

Chalmers  landed  at  Tilbury  in  1894  with  very  different 
feelings  from  those  which  dominated  him  in  1887.  Then 
he  felt  himself  a  stranger,  more  at  home  in  a  canoe  than 
in  a  train,  far  more  at  ease  in  a  dubu  than  in  a  church. 
He  dreaded  the  duty  of  addressing  audiences,  and  he 
contemplated  a  speedy  return  flight  from  the  restraints 
of  civilization.  In  1894  he  looked  forward  to  meeting 
hosts  of  loving  friends,  he  had  tested  his  power  to  move 
audiences,  his  enthusiasm  for  his  life-work  was  even  more 
fervent  than  in  1887,  and  he  felt  that  God  had  a  work 


3O2         Up  and  Down  the  Fly  River 

for  him  to  do  and  would  give  him  grace  and  strength  to 
perform  it. 

At  every  great  missionary  assembly,  and  at  multitudes 
of  the  smaller  meetings  also,  the  one  indispensable  orator 
during  the  last  half  of  1894  and  the  first  half  of  1895  was 
Chalmers.  Throughout  Britain  he  travelled  unceasingly, 
speaking,  preaching,  kindling  into  burning  flame  of  love 
and  zeal  alike  the  individuals  who  were  fortunate  enough 
to  come  into  close  touch  with  his  virile,  sympathetic, 
Christ -possessed  humanity,  and  also  the  great  assemblies 
that  were  enthralled  by  his  rugged  eloquence  and  un- 
quenchable enthusiasm  for  the  uplifting  of  humanity. 

Chalmers  on  the  platform  and  in  the  pulpit  was  great ; 
but  in  the  quiet  home,  after  the  day's  deputation  work 
was  over,  in  congenial  society — it  was  then  that  the 
simplicity,  the  single-heartedness,  the  consecration,  the 
Christ-likeness  of  the  man  shone  out  most  brightly.  On 
these  occasions  as  Chalmers  talked  you  saw  the  wild, 
fierce  face  of  the  cannibal  soften  at  the  story  of  the 
Cross ;  you  trod  with  the  intrepid  missionary  across 
the  beach  to  the  chief's  hut,  not  knowing  whether  you 
would  return  alive ;  you  sat  at  the  Lord's  Table  with 
men  and  women  who  but  a  few  years  before  had  eaten 
their  enemies ;  you  clung  to  the  boat  as  she  swung  back- 
ward and  forth  on  the  surge  until  the  wave  came  big 
enough  to  float  you  over  the  reef  and  into  the  lagoon, 
beyond  the  reach  of  the  thundering  and  dangerous  surf. 

Early  in  June,  1895,  while  in  Birmingham,  Chalmers 
had  a  severe  breakdown,  and  was  for  a  time  quite 
seriously  ill.  The  strain  through  which  he  had  for 
months  been  passing  was  greater  almost  than  any  man 
should  be  called  upon  to  bear.  Yet  his  own  eager  desire 
to  do  all  that  he  could,  and  the  imperative  demands  for 
his  presence  that  would  take  no  denial,  combined  to 


Tamate's  Second  Visit  Home         303 

produce  the  disaster.  Happily  rest  and  his  own 
vigorous  constitution  speedily  brought  him  back  again 
to  his  working  level. 

Inverary  by  this  time  was  so  impressed  with  the 
greatness  of  her  son  that  the  burghers  of  that  ancient 
town  conferred  upon  Chalmers  the  highest  honour  in 
their  power — the  freedom  of  the  burgh. 

Tamate  returned  to  New  Guinea  at  the  close  of  1895. 
He  had  determined  to  make  Saguane,  in  the  Fly  River 
Delta,  his  new  home.  His  work  at  this  period  was  the 
superintendence  of  the  stations  scattered  over  the  Torres 
Straits  on  various  islands,  from  Murray  Island  in  the 
south  to  Bampton  Island  in  the  north.  These  com- 
munities were  small  in  numbers  and  widely  scattered. 
To  visit  them  repeatedly — and  only  by  this  means  could 
the  work  of  the  native  teachers  be  rendered  effective — 
involved  constant  voyages  in  either  the  tiny  mission 
schooner,  or  in  the  still  smaller  and  more  cramped 
whaleboat.  The  whole  region  is  one  in  which  naviga- 
tion is  of  the  most  difficult  order;  stormy  weather  is 
frequent,  and  the  squalls  exceedingly  violent,  and  the 
task  of  landing  on  the  different  islands  toilsome  and 
dangerous.  To  pastoral  visitation  of  this  nature  the  last 
years  of  Tamate's  life  were  devoted. 

Saguane,  on  the  island  of  Kiwai  in  the  very  jaws  of 
the  Fly  River  Delta,  was  chosen  as  his  base,  on  Chalmers's 
fundamental  principle  of  always  stationing  himself  as 
near  as  possible  to  the  strategic  point  for  work.  And 
if  the  doing  of  this  involved  hardship  and  the  excitement 
of  danger,  so  much  the  more  he  liked  it.  Probably  no 
less  inviting  spot  in  the  whole  region  could  have  been 
found.  It  was  low,  desolate,  swampy  land,  only  a  few 
feet  above  the  sea-level,  and  it  finally  had  to  be  aban- 
doned because  of  the  resistless  encroachment  of  the  sea. 


304         Up  and  Down  the  Fly  River 

Here  at  Saguane,  when  not  off  upon  his  visitation 
voyages,  Chalmers  spent  days  and  weeks,  patiently 
instructing-  savage  children  in  the  rudiments  of  know- 
ledge, and  conducting  simple  daily  services  of  prayer 
and  praise  with  handfuls  of  natives  who  came  but  slowly 
to  any  comprehension  of  the  meaning  of  the  actions  in 
which  they  took  part.  He  was  ever  seeking  and  ever 
gaining  more  and  more  hold  upon  the  savages  who, 
attracted  by  his  residence  there,  and  by  his  irresistible 
personality,  came  in  the  first  instance  to  see  what  they 
could  either  get  or  steal  from  the  white  man,  and  ended 
by  being  compelled  under  his  constraining  influence 
to  surrender  all  the  worst  features  of  their  savagery. 
It  would  be  hard  to  find  in  the  whole  mission  field 
a  more  striking  instance  of  surrender  to  duty  than  that 
of  Chalmers,  the  intrepid  explorer,  the  man  who  was 
never  happier  than  when  keenly  reading  the  faces  of 
hitherto  unseen  savages,  the  man  whose  services  were 
sought  by  learned  societies  all  over  the  world,  who  could 
thrill  vast  audiences  by  the  power  of  his  personality  and 
the  burning  force  of  his  enthusiasm,  patiently  giving 
himself  to  the  work  of  an  infant-school  teacher  with  the 
savage  children  of  Saguane. 

In  August,  1897,  Mrs.  Chalmers  reached  Saguane, 
more  than  three  years  after  her  health  had  compelled 
her  to  leave  Toaripi.  She  found  both  place  and  people 
at  Saguane  very  different  from  the  stormy  beach  and 
the  wild  savages  she  had  learned  to  love  at  Toaripi. 
But  she  soon  set  herself,  for  the  Master's  sake,  to  the 
duty  of  loving  and  caring  for  the  degraded  children  and 
natives  around  her.  On  Dec.  i,  1897,  she  wrote: — 

'My  children  are  a  handful,  perfect  young  savages, 
and  if  anything  goes  wrong,  they  fight  tooth  and  nail, 
the  former  being  the  favourite  mode.  Sometimes  I  hear 


'Pray  that  I  may  love  these  People'   305 

screams  and  yells,  as  if  some  one  was  being  murdered, 
and  I  find  that  a  boy  or  girl  has  made  the  teeth  meet  in 
the  flesh  of  another. 

'We  get  good  attendance  at  school,  although  most 
of  the  parents  discourage  their  children  from  coming. 
The  attendance  at  church  is  fairly  good.  I  look  round 
and  long  to  see  some  sign  of  real  interest.  It  is  early 
days  yet,  and  we  must  just  work  on  in  patience.  I  want 
you  to  pray  that  I  may  grow  to  love  these  people.  I  do 
not  feel  to  love  them  as  I  did  my  Toaripians.  They  are 
a  much  lower  type  than  the  latter ;  they  are  so  mean, 
and  dirty,  and  selfish — but  Jesus  loves  them  all,  and  oh, 
how  they  need  His  love,  and  they  need  ours  too. 
Tamate,  bless  him,  seems  to  like  them  well,  and  shakes 
hands,  and  puts  his  arm  over  their  shoulders,  and  never 
minds  dirt  or  disease.' 

In  May,  1898,  Chalmers  started  on  the  'Niue'  to  visit 
his  teachers  in  the  Straits,  and  fortunately,  as  it  turned 
out,  Mrs.  Chalmers  accompanied  him.  They  had  hardly 
started  when  one  of  the  worst  series  of  gales  ever  known, 
even  in  that  region,  overtook  them.  They  were  com- 
pelled to  take  refuge  at  Thursday  Island,  where  first 
Mrs.  Chalmers  was  laid  up,  and  then  Tamate  himself  had 
a  dangerous  illness,  due  partly  to  a  fall  and  partly  to 
the  exposure,  fatigue,  and  drenchings  occasioned  by  the 
terrible  weather  through  which  the  'Niue'  passed. 
Mrs.  Chalmers,  on  June  13,  wrote  home  an  account  of 
this  time  of  peril  and  suffering : — 

'We  left  Saguane  May  19,  and  had  a  most  terrible 
time  in  these  Straits.  They  are  dangerous  at  all  times, 
anywhere  out  of  the  big  ship  channel,  and  every  island 
is  reef-bound — besides  the  sunken  reefs,  and  many  sand- 
banks. For  over  a  fortnight  we  were  out,  and  battling 
with  awful  seas  and  constant  squalls  night  and  day.  The 

u 


306         Up  and  Down  the  Fly  River 

little  "  Niue  "  is  always  what  we  call  a  wet  boat,  but  during 
this  time  she  had  seas  over  her  from  stem  to  stern — and 
often  the  water  came  into  the  cabin,  and  our  mattresses, 
pillows,  and  selves  were  soaked.  We  were  beating  and 
tacking  the  whole  time—  anchoring  at  night  under  lee  of 
islands  or  reefs,  and  pitching,  rolling,  and  dancing  the 
whole  night;  only  twice  we  had  a  quieter  anchorage. 
Tamate  was  on  deck  nearly  the  whole  day  long,  wet 
through  and  through,  but  obliged  to  be  there  in  such 
stormy  weather.' 

Gradually  evidences  of  success  attended  the  work  in 
this  trying  field.  Chalmers  writes : 

*  God  is  blessing  our  work  very  abundantly,  and  many 
are  seeking  baptism.  Last  month  I  baptized  at  Parama 
sixty-four,  and  at  Geavi  thirty-two,  and  at  each  place 
hosts  of  children.  Last  Sunday  I  baptized  fourteen  here 
and  seven  children.  We  need  more  teachers  at  many 
places;  they  hold  services  and  do  their  best.  The 
Master  sees  it  all,  and  will  bless  them.  Now  that  the 
hard  up-pull  is  easier,  the  long,  dreech  waiting  over, 
I  would  gladly  give  up  to  a  younger  man.' 

Mrs.  Chalmers's  health,  which  had  begun  to  fail  steadily, 
necessitated  at  this  time  a  visit  to  Australia.  There 
Tamate  joined  her  towards  the  close  of  her  stay.  He 
was  ever  alert  to  utilize  such  visits  and  the  opportunities 
they  afforded  for  stimulating  assemblies  and  for  con- 
sulting friends  and  officials  who  could  help  on  his  work. 

An  old  college  friend  who  visited  Tamate  at  this 
time  has  well  described  his  work :  '  I  once  saw  him  in 
his  Fly  River  home,  the  most  oppressively  lonely 
mission  station  I  have  ever  seen.  To  have  lived  at 
Saguane,  in  the  midst  of  the  mangrove  swamps  of 
the  Fly  Delta,  would  have  been  an  unbearable  exile 
to  most  men,  but  there,  on  an  island  mid-stream,  which 


Tamate  as  Schoolmaster  307 

seemed  to  him  to  be  a  strategic  position  for  his  work, 
he  planted  his  home.  There  was  no  permanent  village 
near,  but  he  gathered  a  few  friendly  natives  around 
him,  and  formed  the  nucleus  of  a  Christian  community. 
At  daybreak  I  visited  with  him  the  rudely  con- 
structed schoolhouse  he  had  built  on  the  sand,  just 
above  high-water  mark.  Twenty-three  boys  and  girls 
were  gathered  before  him.  He  knew  their  language, 
but  he  was  teaching-  them  English,  and  with  a  small 
bamboo  stick  for  a  baton,  which  I  brought  away  as 
a  memento  of  the  scene,  he  led  them  as  they  sang  the 
first  verse  of  "  God  save  the  Queen,"  and  "  All  hail  the 
power  of  Jesu's  name."  I  do  not  think  Chalmers  ever 
appeared  to  me  quite  so  great  a  man  as  when  I  saw 
him  thus  teaching  that  group  of  Fly  River  children.' 

In  July,  1900,  Mrs.  Chalmers  became  seriously  ill,  and 
as  week  after  week  passed  without  improvement,  it 
gradually  dawned  upon  them  both  that  there  was  only 
one  possible  end  to  her  sufferings.  Chalmers  prepared, 
during  his  last  lonely  months  at  Daru,  a  sketch  of  his 
wife's  life.  The  latter  portion  of  this  tells  tenderly  the 
story  of  these  last  sorrowful  weeks  : — 

1  Lizzie  came  out  to  me  in  1897,  and  enjoyed  Saguane 
much  at  first.  With  the  old  spirit  she  threw  herself  into 
teaching-,  and  her  bairns  made  progress.  In  the  begin- 
ning of  1 899  she  went  to  the  colonies,  where  stie  soon 
recovered.  I  went  to  Sydney  to  meet  her,  and  stayed 
four  weeks,  when  we  returned  to  Saguane.  Towards 
the  end  of  the  year  illness  returned,  and  she  suffered 
a  good  deal  internally.  In  1900  she  still  carried  on  her 
classes.  In  May  we  went  to  Thursday  Island,  where 
I  left  her. 

*  On  my  return  I  found  her  much  better,  and  anxious 
to  get  back  to  work,  and  especially  to  prepare  for  our 

U  2 


308         Up  and  Down  the  Fly  River 

removal  to  Daru,  which  had  become  necessary  owing  to 
the  washing-  away  by  the  sea  of  the  shore  at  Saguane. 
Soon  after  our  return  she  and  the  boys  packed  away  all 
her  small  things.  She  carried  on  her  classes,  and  on 
July  23  she  had  her  evening  class,  and  on  my  going  to 
her  she  complained  of  feeling  very  poorly.  I  got  her  to 
bed,  from  which  she  never  again  rose  without  assistance. 

'  For  fourteen  weeks  she  was  ill,  but  steadily  growing 
in  Christ.  She  was  thankful  for  her  long  illness,  not- 
withstanding the  great  suffering,  as  it  gave  her  time  to 
understand  better,  to  get  a  clearer  view  and  a  stronger 
faith.  Often  she  could  be  heard  in  praise,  and  saying, 
"  Peace,  perfect  peace ! "  "  In  my  Father's  house  are 
many  mansions ; "  "  Jesus  is  near,  very  near."  She 
loved  to  hear  the  children  sing. 

'  One  thing  she  feared  was  that  she  might  die  at 
Saguane,  and  so  would  have  to  be  buried  in  the  swamp, 
and  earnestly  prayed  she  might  be  spared  to  reach  Daru 
and  be  buried  there.  On  October  24  we  carried  her  on 
board  the  "  Niue."  We  had  a  very  fine  run  across, 
and  at  10.30  we  anchored  off  Daru.  I  said  when  the 
anchor  was  going  down,  "  Daru,  dear,"  and  with  great 
satisfaction  she  replied,  "Yes."  My  hope  was  to  get 
her  to  Thursday  Island  and  on  to  Sydney.  But  that 
night  she  became  much  worse,  was  sometimes  uncon- 
scious, slept  a  good  deal,  and  was  evidently  soon  to  pass 
on  yonder.  She  knew  me  until  9  a.m.  on  October  25, 
and  at  10.40  she  quietly  went  home.  She  rests  in  the 
native  cemetery.  The  few  whites  were  all  exceedingly 
kind  and  sympathetic,  and  helped  me  in  every  way. 
The  teachers  were  as  sons,  and  did  all  they  could. 
Thank  God  for  sympathy  and  love !  The  world  is  full 
of  both  as  it  is  of  God.' 


CHAPTER   XXI 

THE    END    OF    A    NOBLE    LIFE 

AFTER  his  wife's  death  in  October,  1900,  Tamate  gave 
himself  more  earnestly  than  ever  to  the  work  of  the 
mission.  His  head  quarters  were  removed  from  Saguane 
to  Daru ;  and  the  closing  weeks  of  1900  and  the  early 
part  of  1901  found  him  busily  engaged  in  getting  his 
new  quarters  straight  and  fit  for  effective  service.  Before 
his  plans  could  be  completed  the  end  came. 

In  April,  1900,  Chalmers  had  been  encouraged  by 
the  arrival  of  a  young  colleague,  the  Rev.  Oliver  F. 
Tomkins,  who  was  to  superintend  the  Torres  Straits 
Mission,  and  thus  leave  Tamate  free  to  explore  the  Fly 
River  and  to  attempt  to  extend  the  mission  eastwards 
from  that  river.  He  was  a  colleague  after  Tamate 's  own 
heart,  a  man  of  fine  physique,  of  beautiful  spirit,  of  a 
missionary  enthusiasm  akin  to  Chalmers's  own.  From 
the  first  Tamate  loved  him.  '  He  will  do ;  send  us  two 
more  of  the  same  sort,'  was  the  message  the  veteran  sent 
home  about  him.  Through  the  trying  scenes  of  the  last 
illness  of  Mrs.  Chalmers  he  was  as  a  son  to  his  elder 
colleague.  *  What  can  I  say  of  him  who  was  the  sharer 
of  his  martyrdom,'  said  Dr.  Lawes,  at  a  great  meeting  in 
the  Albert  Hall  in  May,  1901,  'except  that  he  had  won 
all  hearts,  and  that  we  expected  great  things  from  him 
for  many  years  to  come  ?  A  man  of  faith  and  prayer, 
mighty  in  the  Scriptures,  he  was  a  great  help,  comfort, 
and  joy  to  Tamate.' 


3io  The  End  of  a  Noble  Life 

The  following-  letters,  certainly  the  last  Tamate 
penned,  were  written  only  the  day  before  the  '  Niue  '  left 
Daru  on  that  trip  from  which  so  many  of  her  passengers 
were  never  to  return : — 

'  DARU,  April 3,  1901. 

'We  leave  to -morrow  for  the  east,  Risk  Point,  and 
Cape  Blackwood,  and  I  shall  be  away  for  over  a  fortnight. 
Our  work  here  gets  on  very  slowly.  Sometimes  the 
greatness  of  it  oppresses  me,  but  He  keeps  saying,  "  Be 
strong  and  of  a  good  courage,"  and  I  know  He  is  with 
us,  so  all  is  well. 

'  We  had  the  "  John  Williams  "  here  a  fortnight  ago, 
and  held  committee  meetings  ashore  on  this  verandah. 
Oh,  it  was  a  good  time.  I  keep  well — a  slight  touch  of 
fever  about  a  fortnight  ago,  just  after  the  "John 
Williams  "  left.  I  have  got  very  lazy  and  must  break  it 
off,  and  so  will  be  on  the  move  for  the  next  six  weeks.' 

'DARU,  April 3,  1901. 

'  Just  a  wee  note  to  leave  for  any  chance  there  may  be 
to  Thursday  Island.  We  leave  to-morrow  for  the  east, 
as  far  as  Cape  Blackwood,  and  expect  to  be  away  more 
than  a  fortnight.  Many  years  ago  I  used  Law's  Serious 
Call  to  a  Devout  Life,  and  am  again  at  it.  We  are  apt 
to  get  so  formal  and  lukewarm  and  need  occasional 
stimulus. 

'  The  sun  is  shining,  and  a  south-east  wind  has  come 
up,  and  I  feel  cheered.  For  more  than  two  months  we 
have  not  had  such  a  day.' 

The  next  day  Tamate  began  that  voyage  which  ended 
so  disastrously  at  Goaribari  Island. 

On  April  4  Tamate  sailed  from  Daru  in  the  '  Niue ' 
to  visit  the  district  around  Cape  Blackwood.  This  part 
of  the  Papuan  Gulf  is  inhabited  by  some  of  the  wildest 
and  fiercest  New  Guinea  tribes.  Chalmers  had  for  many 


3     2 


312  The  End  of  a  Noble  Life 

years  been  eager  to  gain  a  foothold  there  for  mission 
work.  He  loved  the  big  savage  cannibal  chiefs  and 
natives  there.  He  knew  they  were  skull-hunters.  He 
knew  that  any  one  landing  amongst  them  took  his  life 
in  his  hand.  He  knew  also  that  if  he  could  win  them 
the  victory  for  Christ  and  for  civilization  would  be  won 
along  the  whole  Papuan  Gulf.  And  so  he  went  on  the 
expedition  from  which  he  never  returned.  Here  is  the 
terrible  story  of  the  next  few  days. 

The  captain  of  the  '  Niue,'  who  escaped  with  his  life, 
reported  that  he  left  Daru,  on  April  4,  with  Tamate 
and  Tomkins,  Hiro,  a  Rarotongan  teacher,  the  chief  of 
Ipisia,  and  a  party  of  ten  mission  boys.  They  made  for 
Risk  Point,  and  arrived  there  April  7,  at  four  p.m. 
Directly  the  vessel  anchored  the  natives  came  off,  and 
stayed  on  the  vessel  till  sunset,  when  Tamate  persuaded 
them  to  go  ashore,  and  promised  to  visit  them  in  their 
village  the  next  day.  At  five  a.m.  the  next  morning 
a  great  crowd  of  natives  came  off,  and  crowded  the 
decks  so  that  there  was  no  room  to  move.  The  canoes 
in  which  they  came  were  filled  with  bows  and  arrows, 
clubs,  bamboo  knives  and  spears.  Those  on  board  the 
'  Niue  '  tried  to  persuade  the  natives  to  go  on  shore,  but 
they  refused.  Tamate  then  decided  to  go  on  shore 
himself,  thinking  he  might  thereby  induce  the  natives 
to  leave  the  vessel.  Tomkins  at  once  said  he  would 
accompany  him,  and  Tamate  in  vain  tried  to  persuade 
him  to  remain  with  the  vessel.  The  two  missionaries 
got  into  the  whaleboat  with  the  mission  boys  and  the 
Ipisia  chief,  Hjro_re^iaining  on  board  to  help  the  captain. 
Tamate  said  he  would  not  stay  more  than  half  an  hour, 
and  would  return  again  to  the  l  Niue '  to  breakfast,  after 
which  they  would  make  for  another  village. 

Those  left  on  board  watched  the  boat  go  away,  followed 


The  Fatal  Morning  313 

by  about  half  the  natives,  the  rest  remaining-  on  board. 
When  the  boat  neared  the  village  they  saw  it  go  in,  then 
come  out  again,  and  then  in  again,  after  which  they 
could  see  nothing  more  of  it. 

About  seven  o'clock  a  breeze  sprang  up,  and  the 
'  Niue '  was  got  under  way  and  taken  to  an  anchorage 
right  opposite  the  village  of  Dopima,  to  which  Tamate 
had  gone.  The  vessel  waited  there  till  noon,  but  could 
see  no  signs  of  the  party.  It  sailed  on  a  little  further, 
but  still  could  see  no  signs  of  either  the  mission  party 
or  the  boat.  The  captain  waited  till  sunset,  but  still 
there  was  no  sign.  The  '  Niue  '  was  then  taken  outside 
the  island,  and  anchored  for  the  night.  Next  morning 
they  went  along  the  coast  for  some  distance,  but  could  see 
no  sign  of  their  comrades,  and  at  eight  a.m.  on  April  9 
the  'Niue'  left  for  Daru  to  report  the  matter  to  the 
governor. 

The  natives  who  had  remained  on  board  the  'Niue' 
when  Tamate  and  Tomkins  went  ashore,  looted  the 
vessel,  taking  all  the  barter  goods  and  the  clothes  and 
stores  belonging  to  Tamate  and  Tomkins.  The  latter 
had  no  stores  of  any  kind  with  them  when  they  went 
ashore. 

As  soon  as  the  sad  tidings  reached  the  governor  the 
*  Merrie  England '  was  sent  with  a  sufficient  force  to  find 
out  exactly  what  had  happened.  One  of  the  natives 
of  the  district  was  captured,  and  his  tale  was  the 
following : — 

'The  first  suggestion  for  massacring  the  London 
Missionary  Society  party  came  from  the  chief  Garopo, 
off  whose  village,  Dopima,  the  "  Niue "  was  anchored. 
Word  was  at  once  sent  round  that  night  to  villages  in 
the  vicinity  to  come  to  help.  It  is  the  usual  custom  for 
people  of  surrounding  villages,  when,  a  large  boat  is. 


314  The  End  of  a  Noble  Life 

sighted,  to  congregate  in  one  place.  Dopima,  Turotere, 
and  eight  other  villages  took  part.  The  next  morning 
all  the  canoes  went  off  and  persuaded  Messrs.  Chalmers 
and  Tomkins  and  party  to  come  on  shore  in  the  whale- 
boat.  Some  of  the  natives  remained  to  loot  the  "  Niue." 

'When  they  got  on  shore  Messrs.  Chalmers  and 
Tomkins  and  a  few  boys  entered  the  long  house,  the 
rest  of  the  boys  remaining  to  guard  the  boat.  These 
last,  however,  were  also  enticed  inside  the  house  on 
pretence  of  giving  them  something  to  eat.  The  signal 
for  a  general  massacre  was  given  by  knocking  simul- 
taneously from  behind  both  Messrs.  Chalmers  and 
Tomkins  on  the  head  with  stone  clubs.  Chalmers  was 
struck  by  lake,  of  Turotere,  and  Tomkins  by  Arau-u, 
of  Turotere.  Kaiture,  of  Dopima,  then  stabbed  Mr. 
Chalmers  in  the  right  side  with  a  cassowary  dagger, 
and  then  Muroroa  cut  off  his  head.  Ema  cut  off 
Mr.  Tomkins's  head.  They  both  fell  senseless  at  the 
first  blow  of  the  clubs. 

'All  the  heads  were  immediately  cut  off.  We,  how- 
ever, lost  one  man,  Gahibai,  of  Dopima.  He  was  running 
to  knock  a  big  man,  Naragi,  chief  of  Ipisia,  on  the  head, 
when  the  latter  snatched  a  stone  club  from  a  man  stand- 
ing near,  and  killed  Gahibai.  Naragi  was,  however, 
immediately  overpowered.  The  other  boys  were  too 
small  to  make  any  resistance. 

'In  the  meantime  the  people  in  canoes  left  at  the 
"Niue"  had  come  back  after  looting  her.  This  party 
was  led  by  Kautiri,  of  Dopima.  Finding  the  party  on 
shore  dead,  it  was  determined  to  go  back  to  the  "  Niue  " 
and  kill  those  on  board.  However,  the  "Niue"  had 
got  under  way,  and  left,  so  they  could  not  accomplish 
their  purpose.  Then  Pakara,  of  Aimaha,  called  out 
to  all  the  people  to  come  and  break  up  the  boat,  which 


The  Tragedy  at  Dopima  315 

had  been  taken  right  inside  the  creek,  it  being  high 
water1.  This  was  done,  and  the  pieces  were  divided 
amongst  people  from  the  various  villages. 

'  Directly  the  heads  had  been  cut  off  the  bodies  some 
men  cut  the  latter  up  and  handed  the  pieces  over  to  the 
women  to  cook,  which  they  did,  mixing  the  flesh  with 
sago.  They  were  eaten  the  same  day.  Gebai  took 
Mr.  Chalmers's  head  to  Dopima,  and  Mahikaha  took 
Mr.  Tomkins's  head  to  Turotere.  The  rest  of  the  heads 
were  divided  amongst  various  individuals.  Anybody 
having  a  new  head  would  naturally,  on  seeing  strange 
people  coming  to  the  village,  hide  it  away  in  the  bush, 
and  leave  only  the  old  skulls  in  the  houses.  The 
same  applies  to  the  loot  from  the  "  Niue."  As  regards 
the  skulls  in  the  houses,  those  having  artificial  noses 
attached  to  them  are  of  people  who  have  died  natural 
deaths;  those  that  have  no  noses  attached  have  been 
killed.' 

Punishment  for  the  tragedy  was  exacted  by  the 
government  in  order  to  put  a  stop  to  such  events  in 
the  future,  and  not  from  any  desire  on  the  part  of 
Tamate's  friends  and  fellow  helpers  for  revenge.  The 
last  desire  in  their  hearts  was  for  any  vengeance  upon 
the  poor  ignorant  savages  who  had,  all  unwittingly, 
murdered  their  best  friends. 

The  governor  started  with  the  steam  launch,  with  six 
boats  in  tow.  Off  the  village  of  Dopima  two  of  the 
boats  were  cast  off,  while  the  governor  with  the  other 
four  went  about  a  mile  and  a  half  further  up  to  the 
second  village,  Turotere.  He  no  sooner  got  abreast  of 
the  village  than  the  natives  rushed  down,  and  opened 
fire  upon  him.  Not  till  then  did  he  hold  up  a  white  flag 

1  This  was  the  splendid  boat  which  just  before  her  death 
Mrs.  Chalmers  had  presented  to  the  mission. 


316  The  End  of  a  Noble  Life 

(the  signal  to  fire).  A  few  rounds  were  fired,  the  whole 
party  scrambled  ashore  through  the  mud,  and  in  a  short 
time  had  possession  of  the  village.  At  Dopima  the 
attack  was  not  made  till  after  that  on  Turotere  had 
begun.  Leaving  two  boats  at  Turotere,  the  governor 
went  round  the  north  end  of  the  island  to  a  village  on 
the  mainland.  Here  again  he  was  attacked.  Heavy 
rain  came  on  as  he  and  his  party  from  Dopima  joined 
those  at  Turotere.  In  the  dark  and  the  wet  they  went 
ashore  and  camped  in  the  dubu.  For  hours  a  most 
violent  thunderstorm  raged.  Despite  this  the  natives 
made  two  attacks  on  the  dubu,  and  wounded  one  of 
the  native  police. 

'  The  next  morning  the  governor  went  away  to  Aimaha 
with  four  of  the  boats,  leaving  two  others  to  destroy  the 
war  canoes  and  the  dubus.  He  had  given  orders  that 
none  of  the  family  houses  were  to  be  touched.  ^  This 
order  was  obeyed,  except  in  the  case  where  the  wind 
carried  the  flame  to  other  houses,  and  best  part  of  the 
village  was  burnt.  One  of  these  dubus  was  fully 
300  yards  long,  and  the  shortest  would  not  be  less  than 
150  yards  long.  At  Turotere  four  of  these  dubus  were 
fired,  and  no  sooner  did  the  smoke  begin  to  rise  than  all 
along  the  mangrove  edge  was  lined  with  men  in  very 
small  canoes.  Some  few  of  them  tried  to  cross,  but  they 
vanished  into  the  mangrove  the  moment  the  small 
launch  tried  to  capture  them.  The  governor  had  given 
orders  that  there  was  to  be  no  more  firing  except  in  case 
of  need,  and  this  order  was  in  keeping  with  the  spirit  in 
which  the  whole  affair  was  carried  out.  During  Friday 
and  Saturday  ten  villages  were  visited,  and  the  fighting 
dubus  in  each  destroyed.' 

The  Lieutenant-Governor  of  British  New  Guinea,  who 
was  present  in  person  at  the  events  first  described,  sent 


A  Dubu  at  Dopima  317 

in  a  full  official  report  of  his  proceedings,  and  we  quote 
some  passages  from  this : — 

'  The  locality  is  one  which  has  a  very  bad  reputation ; 
the  population  is  large  and  savage.  It  was  first  visited, 
as  far  as  I  know,  by  Captain  Blackwood  (after  whom 
the  cape  to  the  east  of  it  is  named)  in  1845.  Sir 
William  Macgregor  visited  it  twice,  in  1892  and  1898, 
and  on  one  occasion  only  prevented  a  collision  between 
his  party  and  the  natives  of  the  Omati  River,  who  were 
stealing  from  his  boat,  by  holding  back  with  his  own 
hand  one  of  his  crew  who  had  struck  a  thief  who  had 
stolen  his  shirt. 

'I  went  through  the  long  dubu,  which  I  should  say 
was  300  yards  long,  divided  up  on  either  side  into  small 
partitions  or  cubicles  screened  off  from  the  centre  passage, 
which  was  wide  and  clear  from  end  to  end.  There  were 
quantities  of  bows  and  arrows,  many  of  the  latter  barbed 
and  of  a  soft,  easily  broken  wood,  probably  intentional 
to  make  their  extraction  more  difficult.  The  most 
curious  objects  were  fantastically  carved  and  painted 
figures  fastened  to  a  sort  of  seat,  with  dozens  of  skulls, 
some  of  them  carved  and  painted,  in  front  of  them; 
each  skull  was  attached  to  the  figure  or  to  the  frame  of 
the  seat  by  a  thick  twisted  cord  with  a  loop  at  the  end 
which  slipped  over  a  peg ;  there  were  hundreds  ot  these 
skulls  before  numerous  figures,  which  we  take  to  be 
idols  of  some  kind,  in  all  the  dubus.  Some  had  pieces 
smashed  out  by  the  death-blow,  others  were  uninjured. 
Some  had  artificial  noses  and  teeth  made  of  gum  and 
wool.  We  found  bamboo  head-knives  and  the  daggers 
of  cassowary  bone  with  which  they  dispatch  their 
victims.  When  a  man  is  seized  the  dagger  is  plunged 
downwards  into  his  gullet,  and  his  head  is  immediately 
cut  off  with  the  bamboo  knife. 


318  The  End  of  a  Noble  Life 

*  I  had  to  decide  what  punishment  I  ought  to  inflict 
on  all  those  villages  which  I  had  reason  to  believe  were 
implicated  or  connected  in  any  way  with  the  dreadful 
tragedy,  and  I  at  length,  after  careful  consideration, 
decided  to  visit  them  all  with  one  or  other  of  our 
parties  and  burn  down  the  dubus,  but  not  to  touch  any 
of  the  ordinary  dwelling-houses  of  the  married  men  with 
their  women  and  children.  I  consulted  those  of  my 
officers  whom  I  knew  were  sympathetic  and  experienced 
with  natives,  and  we  came  to  the  conclusion  that  it  was 
the  right  thing  to  do  under  the  circumstances ;  but, 
while  I  took  their  opinion,  the  decision  was  mine  and 
I  was  entirely  responsible  for  it. 

'  By  burning  these  dubus  only,  the  punishment  fell  only 
on  the  fighting  men.  The  houses  are  made  of  sago-palm, 
and  can  be  rebuilt,  but  of  course  with  a  considerable 
amount  of  time  and  labour  ;  the  blow  to  the  prestige  of 
the  village  would  be  greatly  felt,  and  that  is^of  more 
weight  in  this  case  than  the  material  loss  of  the  buildings. 
It  was  necessary,  in  my  opinion,  to  leave  a  lesson  behind 
me  which  would  not  only  be  felt  by  those  punished,  but 
the  report  of  which  would  spread  amongst  their  neigh- 
bours far  and  wide.  I  also  decided  to  destroy  several  of 
the  large  war  canoes — dug-outs  without  outriggers. 

'  It  is  in  surroundings  such  as  these  that  the  Pioneer 
Missionary,  and  one  of  the  mission's  latest  recruits,  and 
their  faithful  followers,  lost  their  lives  by  the  hands  of 
those  they  had  come  to  befriend ;  the  first  because  he 
knew  of  nothing  that  could  stop  him,  and  the  others 
because  where  their  leader  went  they  went  too.  It  was 
stated  by  the  survivors  on  the  "  Niue  "  that  Mr.  Chalmers 
probably  anticipated  some  danger,  as  he  wished  to  leave 
Mr.  Tomkins  on  board  ;  but  the  latter  would  not  let  him 
go  without  him,  and  they  were  called  away  together  at 


The  Noble  Character  of  Tamate       319 

each  other's  side.  I  am  not  alone  in  the  opinion  that  Mr. 
Chalmers  has  won  the  death  he  would  have  wished  for 
of  all  others — in  New  Guinea  and  for  New  Guinea — and 
if  I  am  right  in  the  belief  that  this  sacrifice  will  prove  to 
be  the  means  of  putting  an  end  to  such  tragedies  any- 
where on  the  coast  of  the  Possession — and  they  could 
only  occur  in  this  last  part  of  it  which  we  had  not  yet  in 
hand — I  know  that  he,  or  any  others  of  his  brother 
missionaries  here,  would  unhesitatingly  welcome  the 
opportunity  for  the  sake  of  its  end.' 

His  old  friend  and  colleague,  Dr.  Lawes,  wrote  of 
him: — 

4  That  which  characterized  our  beloved  Tamate  most 
as  a  missionary,  and  as  a  leader  among  his  brethren,  was 
spiritual  power.  He  was  a  Christian  of  the  robust, 
healthy  type,  with  instinctive  hatred  of  all  cant  and 
sham.  A  man  of  great  faith,  mighty  in  prayer,  and  full 
of  the  love  of  Christ.  He  realized  to  a  greater  degree 
than  most  men  what  it  is  to  live  in  Christ,  and  to  him 
His  presence  was  very  real,  and  true,  and  constant.  And 
this  spiritual  power  was  the  secret  of  his  wonderful 
influence  over  men,  and  of  his  great  success  as  a  mission- 
ary :  by  it  "  he  being  dead,  yet  speaketh."  The  memory 
of  his  Christ-life  in  its  consecration  and  unselfishness,  its 
large-heartedness,  its  childlike  faith,  its  communion  with 
God,  its  unwearied  service,  and  in  its  bright  hopefulness 
is  the  rich  legacy  he  has  left  wherever  his  name  and 
fame  may  come. 

In  this  sudden  and,  as  it  seems  to  us  who  read  the 
story,  terrible  way  came  the  end  to  a  noble  life.  In 
landing  as  he  did  Tamate  took  only  once  more  a  risk  he 
had  taken  scores  of  times  before.  He  had  often  and 
often  in  his  wonderful  life  been  on  the  very  brink  of 
destruction.  Hitherto  God  had  preserved  him  ;  now  He 


32O  The  End  of  a  Noble  Life 

allowed  the  blow  to  fall,  and  His  faithful  servant  to  be 
called  up  home.  Could  Chalmers  have  chosen  his  end 
we  do  not  think  he  would  have  had  it  other  than  it  was. 
He  died  at  the  post  of  duty.  He  died  while  trying  to 
benefit  fierce  savages  whom  his  great  heart  loved.  And 
he  has  left  a  splendid  example  of  faithfulness  unto  the 
end  for  all  who  read  the  story  of  his  life  to  follow  in 
their  own  path  of  duty. 


A     000  040  426     9 


